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Bake Shop Library 



Cakes for Bakers 



BY 



PAUL RICHARDS 

AUTHOR OF BAKERS' BREAD AND OTHER 
BOOKS ON BAKING 



<<#** 



(ILLUSTRATED) 



*** 



BAKERS' HELPER CO. 
CHICAGO 

1921 



-fX'l^ 



Copyright, 1921 
Bakers' Helper Company 



APR -6 132! 
©CU611705 

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CONTENTS 

Page 
I. General Suggestions 11 

II. Slab Cake, Box Cake, Loaf Cake 26 

III. Cakes for Special Occasions 38 

IV. Roll-Cakes, Layers, Etc 54 

V. Miscellaneous Cakes 77 

VI. Making Pastes 95 

VII. French Pastries 118 

VIII. Cookies or Hard Cakes — How to Work Them 128 

IX. Machine-Made Cookies 152 

X. Small Fancy Cakes 157 

XI. Yeast Raised Doughs and Pastry 174 

XII. Tea Biscuit, Scones, Muffins, Etc • 198 

XIII. Icings and Fillings 203 

XIV. Pies and Pie-Making 220 

XV. Puddings, Jams, Jellies 231 

XVI. Ice Creams, Ices, Syrups, Etc 236 

XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale 247 

Index 281 



PREFACE 

THE popularity of Mr. Richards' other works, because 
of their eminently practical value, is sufficient guarantee 
of the practical value of Cakes for Bakers. This book is 
designed especially to fill the needs of bakers who cater to good 
family trade. The formulas given have been adapted to 
modern practice, tested thoroughly, and may bs relied upon 
for the production of quality goods, the kind that bring repeat 
business, at prices satisfactory to the customer. 

Recipes are the principal thing bakers look for in a boo 1 ?:, 
but good descriptions, with illustrations, and suggestions for 
the best methods of finishing cakes for sale, constitute very 
useful supplementary information, and much matter of this 
character is included in Cakes for Bakers. The illustrations, 
both of finished goods and details of decorative designs, 
studied with the text, will afford any baker of ordinary 
experience all the help he needs for fancy work, as well as 
for neat and tasteful finishing touches on everyday products. 

Swedish and Danish pastry doughs are well represented, 
and any baker used to handling pastry will find no trouble in 
making them. Full directions have also been given for mak- 
ing many more of the European style torten and pastries. 
The varieties in every line offer the baker a wide choice for 
any class of trade. 

The publishers feel that a real need will be met, and much 
help in "selling more cakes" will be given, by publishing 
Paul Richards' Cakes for Bakers. 

THE PUBLISHERS. 



I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 



Aerating Agents 
Baking Periods 
Baking Temperatures 
Cake Machines 
Effects of Altitude 
Eggs and Their Use 
Flavorings 



Flour-Batter Method 
Mixing — Hand, Machine 
Pans for Baking 
Selection of Materials 
Shortenings 
Sugars and Syrups 
Variation in Flours 



I. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS 



SELECTION OF MATERIALS 

In cake making the selection and buying of the materials 
should be the first consideration. The chief ingredients are 
flour, eggs, shortening and sugar; and of these the most expen- 
sive are the butter and eggs, the prices of which vary during 
the seasons, and in the winter time rise very high. To 
obtain a uniform cost price the year through for materials 
used, the provident baker contracts for eggs early in the 
spring or summer and puts them in storage to use when prices 
begin to rise during fall and winter. Butter may be bought 
and stored in June for the same reason. This equalizes the 
cost of these high-priced ingredients and prices and quality 
of cakes may be kept up to the same standard. Another 
important point in cake making is the study of the ingredi- 
ents and how to compound them into a well-balanced formula. 
A baker must not be content with simply following the instruc- 
tions given in formulas. He must think and use good 
judgment in the compounding of the different materials. 
Correct weighing and measuring of all ingredients must be 
observed to obtain the best results. 

Conditions and materials vary continually and very much 
depends on the good judgment of the workman. In the prepa- 
ration of a cake formula there must be a certain balance of 
materials to obtain the best results. If this balance is upset, 
the final result will not be satisfactory. 

VARIATION IN FLOURS 

We find a marked variation in the character and baking 
qualities in the same grades of flour from year to year. In 
selecting flour for cakes we find that a good grade of soft 
winter wheat flour is best adapted for cake baking. Winter 
wheats grown in Ohio, Indiana and Missouri contain niore 
gluten than those grown in Michigan. The strong, hard, 
spring wheat flours are a disadvantage in cakes, as absorption 

11 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and moistening is accomplished with expensive materials. In 
some cake formulas a strong flour, or a blend of strong and soft 
flour, is preferred at times, because it will hold up a cake 
better than a flour with a soft gluten. There is no standard 
for cake flours, and the variations we meet in the various 
flours on account of their different characters must be judged 
with due regard to suitability. Some millers prepare a special 
milled flour for cakes. In some cake bakeries flours are mixed 
in the bakery, blended with rice flour or corn flour for certain 
grades of cake. 

In the making of pie doughs, shortbreads and cookies, a 
moderately soft flour must be used ; a hard flour would spoil 
these goods. For certain grades of pastry a strong flour, but 
not of too harsh a gluten, gives best results. With some 
shortenings a stronger flour is required than with others. A 
high quality flour is considered best for pastry ; also for cream 
puffs and eclairs, etc. New flours are as troublesome in cake 
making as in bread making, because they contain too much 
moisture, but they gain strength with age. 

A flour of average strength requires about half its own 
weight in liquid to moisten it sufficiently for the purpose of 
cake making; and in practice, it is found that % of an ounce 
of baking powder of normal strength is required to aerate a 
pound of flour. 

In compounding a cake or making up a recipe, we must 
judge the strength of a flour, its absorption, action of sugar 
and shortening, and the amount of eggs by weight, in pro- 
portion to the flour. 

EGGS AND THEIR USE 

In small sponge goods the amount of eggs used varies 
greatly. For lady finger and other small cakes, where one 
pound of eggs are used to one pound of flour, a medium grade 
of cake flour is most suitable, while in others, where l 1 ^ 
pounds of eggs are used, a strong flour is preferable. In 
other mixes of the water sponge cake variety, where the 
formula calls for less eggs than flour, for instance, 1 pound 
eggs, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds flour, we prefer a blend of 
strong and medium strong flour. We know that a pound of 
eggs will aerate and moisten only a pound of the flour, also 

12 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



that one pound of flour requires half its weight in liquid to 
moisten and % ounce baking powder for aeration. The 
2 pounds flour require, therefore, 1 pound water and IV2 
ounces baking powder to moisten and lighten the cake in 
addition to the eggs. 

Eggs are used somewhat for their food value, but prin- 
cipally to moisten and lighten the cakes and act as a binder 
to retain the air cells created during the mixing process, and 
in baking. Fresh eggs, frozen canned eggs and concentrated 
eggs are all used successfully in cake making. The fresh 
eggs broken from the shell are the best. Canned frozen eggs 
are sold separated in whites and yolks, also the whole egg 
broken and frozen. The eggs are broken and separated under 
very sanitary conditions, separated and, after being canned, 
frozen and placed in cold storage until desired for use. Many 
bakers contract for these eggs when prices are low and the 
eggs are held until needed by the baker. This makes it very 
desirable, for even the small baker can have eggs at a stand- 
ard price. The frozen whites, if carefully separated, free 
from yolks, have all the qualities of the whites from fresh 
eggs and keep well in cold storage. If a baker uses frozen 
canned yolks, it is preferable to require the packer to mix the 
separated yolks with a good portion of whole eggs. This is 
necessary, because the separated yolks, in freezing, undergo a 
hardening process of a nature which is not fully understood. 
Some packers mix a large quantity of sugar with the yolks to 
prevent hardening. In using dried eggs, a baker should be 
careful to obtain the entirely soluble article. These eggs are 
made into a solution and used like the fresh egg. 

SUGARS AND SYRUPS 

Sugars and syrups and also molasses are used for the pur- 
pose of sweetening. They have a flowing and spreading 
action in cakes when subjected to heat. In' some cakes, such 
as cookies, macaroons and wafers, they are used in large 
quantities and are the chief factors to give these goods their 
crisp and flat appearance and to make them spread and flow. 
In soft cake mixtures, if used in excess, the cakes will rise and 
fall in baking and produce a coarse texture. In every bakery 
different kinds of sugar should be kept on hand to work with. 

13 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Fine granulated sugar, brown sugar, standard powdered sugar 
and XXXX powdered icing sugar. Standard powdered sugar 
is considered best for soft cake mixing, as coarse sugar does 
not properly dissolve in the creaming and causes a poor tex- 
ture in the cake and often spots on top of the baked cakes. 

EFFECTS OF ALTITUDE 

In the high altitudes the usual amounts of sugar used 
must be reduced considerably or the cake will rise and fall in 
baking. The altitude affects especially the richer grades of 
cake. If you use a pound of sugar in lower altitudes, each 
pound of sugar may be reduced from 2 to 6 ounces; the 
higher the altitude, the less sugar. Shortening and baking 
powder also require reducing. The air pressure grows less 
as the altitude increases and less rising or aerating power is 
required in the formulas. In ladyfingers and sponge mixtures 
from 1 to 2 ounces more flour to the pound are recommended. 
It is also noticed that water boils below 212 degrees and 
apparently less heat will require longer boiling or cooking 
than at lower altitudes. General directions given by bakers 
working in these high altitudes are to cut down sugar from 
1 pound in lower altitude to 12 ounces in higher altitude. 

Table of Changes for Wine Cake Mixture 



Altitude 

Flour 

Eggs 

Milk 

Sugar 

Lard 

Baking Powder 



Chicago 

590 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

6i/ 2 lbs. 

31/2 lbs. 

6 14 ozs, 



Denver 
5,280 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

6 lbs. 

3 lbs. 

6 ozs. 



Idaho 
Springs 
7,500 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

6 lbs. 
21/2 lbs. 

5 ozs. 



Leadville 

10,200 ft. 

10 lbs. 

lqt. 

lgal. 

3 lbs. 

2% lbs. 

3% ozs. 



Ladyfingers and sponge cake stand from 1 to 2 ounces 
more flour to the pound. For macaroons, etc., reduce sugar 
or increase flour, and watch results. 

CONCERNING SHORTENINGS 

Butter and fats are used for shortening, and the good flavor 
of fresh butter is considered the best flavor in good cakes. But 

14 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



even the best grades of cake are not always made up from all 
butter, and a percentage of butter with a good neutral fat is 
pronounced more satisfactory in many ways. A good high 
grade butterine is preferable to a low second grade butter and 
is more healthful. The use of good edible vegetable fats is 
rather an improvement. Butter varies greatly and contains 
other substances, usually salt and water, while the neutral 
fats are almost 100 per cent pure and always more uniform, 
and therefore better than butter from the standpoint of 
health and as far as cleanliness of production and uniformity 
is concerned, also in absence of rancidity and reasonable price. 
Some especially suitable grades are prepared for cakes, 
others for pastry, and puff pastry can be more easily made 
from a good butterine, especially during warm weather, 
because it is less affected by the heat. When replacing butter 
with butterine or other fats which are almost pure fat, only 
14 ounces of the fat should be used to replace the 16 ounces 
of butter, with a judicious addition of salt, which is an 
important factor for flavoring when using neutral fats. To 
meet high prices of butter some bakers mix a week's supply 
of butter and substitute together in the dough mixer. The 
percentage of butter used may be changed to suit the different 
classes of goods made. The blending together of both fats 
produces a better assimilation of the two. 

AERATING AGENTS 

Baking powder plays a very important part in the aeration 
of cakes. Many bakers mix their own baking powder fresh 
every day to have a uniform article. It is not a good policy 
to buy a baking powder because it is low priced. Some 
powders dry out the cakes in baking, others work too fast in 
the mixture when liquid is added and must be handled quickly. 
The old favorite standard used in many bakeries is to mix a 
baking powder with 2 parts cream of tartar, 1 part bicarbonate 
of soda and 1 part of flour or starch. This is a good baking 
powder for all general purposes. Cream of tartar and soda 
are also used in many formulas ; that is, two parts cream of 
tartar are sifted in the flour and the soda dissolved in the 
liquid or creamed in with the shortening; or both chemicals 
are sifted into the flour. 

15 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Because of the high price of cream of tartar, a very good 
substitute, which is even better than cream of tartar, has 
been found in phosphate powders (or cream powders). These 
powders are made up to the same strength as cream of tartar 
and the gain in using this powder is not in the lower price. Tt 
is better from the standpoint of health, for the residue, after 
the action of the soda is completed, is not only non-injurious, 
but distinctly healthful in its composition. From the baker's 
standpoint the gain is in the slow working of the phosphate 
powder in the mixture. It is not affected by moisture until 
the oven-heat strikes it, while in other powders, containing 
tartaric acid, the mixtures must be hurried in the oven. As 
these cream powders may be used in the same proportion as 
cream of tartar no change in formula is required. The phos- 
phate powders have not the same whitening and bleaching 
effect, nor do they produce the same moisture, therefore in 
the white cakes, such as angel cakes and others, where cream 
of tartar is used alone without soda, cream of tartar is prefer- 
able and best to use for whitening. 

As aeration is produced by the addition of baking powder or 
other chemicals, these should be sifted thoroughly with the 
flour, or with that part of the flour added in the final mixing 
to assure even distribution, and it is the custom in many 
bakeries to prepare a mixed flour containing the chemicals. 
This is best suited for mixtures where only very small por- 
tions of baking powder are used. For instance, instead of 
sifting 1 ounce of baking powder into a general pound cake 
or loaf cake mix, containing 8 pounds of flour, the baker keeps 
a self-raising flour on hand which contains 1 or 2 ounces of 
the chemicals for each pound of flour. If the formula calls 
for 1 ounce of the chemicals, 7 pounds of plain cake flour and 
1 pound of the self-raising flour is used and the proportions are 
increased, adding more of this flour as the formula calls for 
it. One may blend say 5 pounds of the baking powder with 
80 pounds of flour or as required for a week's use. This 
insures even distribution and makes work easy and small 
amounts of baking powder may be weighed out accurately. 

This same method may be followed when using ammonia 
in small cakes. This chemical is used in very small quantities 
and some bakery scales are not made to scale % ounces or % 

16 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ounces. By mixing the well powdered chemical with double 
weight of flour the small quantities may be scaled more accu- 
rately where only a small mixture is made. 

MIXING BY HAND OR MACHINE 

The keeping of the materials used for mixing the cakes at 
a proper temperature is of the greatest importance to obtain 
good results. It is as necessary to control a cake dough as it 
is to control a bread dough. It is also more economical, as a 
great saving is obtained by keeping the materials in the best 
condition for mixing. Fats soften and become rancid, eggs 
become weak and lose flavor, fruits also suffer in too warm 
a temperature. It is well to have the cooler or ice box handy 
to the mixing room to save steps and time. Many of the large 
bakeries have a large room or refrigerator where the materials 
are kept often provided with table for rolling puff pastry, 
which requires cool handling. 

For mixing cakes by hand or machine the object aimed at 
is the proper aeration. Doing this labor by hand only com- 
paratively small mixtures can be made at one time and the 
proper creaming of more than 3 or 4 pounds of butter with 
the same quantities of sugar, etc., is about the limit for hand 
labor, no matter how strong. A man doing this work cannot 
do it to perfection if these amounts are exceeded, while a 
machine does this work with ease and the quantity is only 
limited by capacity of the machine. But even in machine work 
there is a certain amount that a machine will mix best, and too 
small a quantity or too large a quantity may produce less 
satisfactory results. 

In the process of mixing the sugar and shortening or flour 
and shortening in certain portions are creamed light, and dur- 
ing this process the sides of the bowl or mixing kettle must be 
scraped down several times. The best results are obtained by 
creaming sugar and shortening or flour and shortening fully 
before adding any eggs. A rich mixture in which sugar and 
shortening is creamed very light is apt to curdle when eggs 
are added, especially if they are warm, while if kept at a cool 
temperature — from 45 to 55 degrees — and added in small por- 
tions the mixture will cream up perfectly. If the fat or butter 
is too soft at the start in mixing the cream turns oily and when 

17 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the eggs are beaten in the oil prevents the formation of air 
cells. All these troubles are avoided by having the materials 
kept at the proper temperature. 

The methods of mixing are varied. When using dry milk 
this is creamed in with the shortening and sugar, and it may 
be said that dry milk and water produce a better texture in 
the machine made cake than liquid milk. In the average 
process of mixing used successfully by hand or machine the 
sugar and shortening or flour and shortening is creamed light, 
then the eggs, which may be slightly beaten to mix yolks and 
whites, are added in small portions to the cream, beating them 
in well after each addition and thus beat them in as fast as 
the mixture will take them up. To prevent curdling of the 
butter and sugar cream, a small portion of flour may be added 
after adding the second and third portion of the eggs. This 
will keep the cream in good condition. If milk is used this 
may be added in two or three portions. After eggs are all 
added, add a portion of flour, mix smooth, add a portion of the 
milk, then the remaining part of flour, then the balance of the 
milk. This is the better way than to add all the milk before 
adding the flour. 

In some of the commercial cakes, which are made with 
compounds and are best beaten up in a machine, a part of 
the sugar, the shortening, the milk powder and a part of the 
flour are creamed light. The eggs are beaten light with the 
other part of the sugar, the egg batter is mixed with the first 
part, then the liquids are added with flavor and the balance 
of the flour and mixed smooth. 

Flour-Batter Method 

Another method is known as the flour-batter method. In 
the rich grades of cake known as pound cake, which contain 
no milk, all of the sugar and eggs are beaten together, flour 
and shortening are creamed in even quantities, the egg batter 
is mixed with the flour batter, and the balance of the flour 
is added last. There is usually very little flour in these mix- 
tures, and if there is any baking powder to be added this is 
done with the last part of the flour. Fruit is added to these 
mixtures when the last part of flour is about half mixed in 
and the mixing finished. The process is best adapted for 

18 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



machine, and both parts may be done at the same time, but 
the process can be done by hand. This method gives better 
aeration, produces a smoother grain, and less baking powder 
is required in this process. A mixture containing milk and 
baking powder, a medium grade of pound cake or loaf cake, 
may be worked as follows, for example: 3 pounds butter, 
3 pounds compound, IV2 ounces salt, 9 pounds standard powd. 
sugar, 2y 2 quarts eggs, 2^ quarts milk, 6 pounds hard flour, 
6 pounds soft flour, 1% ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. 

Cream shortening with 6 pounds strong flour, beat up eggs 
and 5 pounds sugar, sift baking powder thoroughly into the 
soft flour. Dissolve the balance of the sugar in the milk. Do 
not beat eggs and sugar too light, only about half as light as 
for sponge cake. In mixing, the egg batter should be rather 
shaken than mixed in the flour batter to preserve the aeration, 
then the milk, salt and sugar solution containing the flavor 
are added carefully, and finally the flour. The process seems 
rather complicated, but is not so much so in practice. 

In mixing all the cakes the operations are very much sim- 
plified if the materials used for mixing are kept at a certain 
standard; changes in shortening, sugar, flours and baking 
powders often require a change in the formula. Many bakers 
are apt not to consider these changes as of importance, which, 
however, are often the cause of imperfect cakes. Each mix- 
ture should produce always a certain number of goods and 
large cakes should be weighed into the pans. The proper sizes 
of pans should be used for cakes sold by the pound or by the 
cut. Plenty of tools make work easy and there are many small 
but labor-saving machines such as food choppers, etc., which 
save much time. 

Cake Machines 

The cake machine is a very important factor in the pro- 
duction of cake; it saves labor, does better work and makes 
better goods. A small baker may use the cake machine for 
mixing bread and roll doughs up to four gallons, and the 
modern machines have usually two sizes of kettles which 
makes these machines useful even for very small mixes. The 
machines have several speeds — slow, medium and fast speed, 
easily regulated. Beaters of several sizes are supplied for 

19 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mixing bread doughs, creaming up shortening and sugar, beat- 
ing eggs and egg whites. 

For the making of marshmallow filling and icings the 
cake machine is almost indispensable. Some cake mixtures 
may be fully finished in the machine, for others the hardest 
part of the work, creaming or beating the eggs, may be done 
in the machine and the final mixing done in the mixing bowl 
by hand. In the richer grades of cake where the essential 
flavor consists of good butter, no other flavorings are required. 
When using neutral fats or compounds a delicate flavor of 
essential oils or high-grade spices is desirable. All flavors 
should be used carefully, as some of the best cakes are spoiled 
by the indiscriminate use of poor flavoring or by a low price 
baking powder. The best flavoring extracts and spices are 
more economical than the low priced article if the flavor of 
the cakes depends on it. 

Baking Temperatures 

In cake baking the knowledge of baking temperatures is 
one of the main features. Exact degrees are difficult to give, 
as the nature and size of cake regulates the time and baking 
temperature. The different makes of ovens behave differently, 
and the meters do not register the baking heat alike, but most 
all ovens can be fairly well regulated by means of opening 
doors and dampers and studying the results. Thus by close 
observation a baker can fix his own scale for the oven he is 
using. Close observation of the firing to obtain and hold the 
proper heat, also the differences of a rising heat or declining 
heat must be watched. It makes quite a difference in baking 
cakes if the oven heat is going up or down. When the tem- 
perature is rising the heat is brisk and the oven has generally 
more top heat than bottom heat. When the oven heat is going 
down, the heat declines gradually, often the bottom heat is 
stronger than the top heat. Some ovens retain a steady baking 
heat better than others. These variations must be studied 
in baking. The average heats for cake baking are given about 
as follows: A temperature of 500 to 550 degrees is termed 
a flash heat or a quick heat. This temperature occurs usually 
when the oven is freshly heated, and at this point the oven 
has always plenty of top heat. This degree of heat is only 

20 



CAKES FOR BAKEES 



used for a few small goods to give color. After the oven 
stands for some time the heat evens up, bottom and top heat 
becomes more evenly distributed, the meter will register from 
420 to 450 degrees. This temperature is used for small puff 
pastry which requires a brisk heat. 420 to 450 degrees is also 
a good heat for lady fingers and some kinds of jelly rolls which 
must be baked quickly to stay soft so they can be rolled. This 
degree is often termed a "hot oven" or "good heat." Larger 
puff paste goods such as patties, etc., are best baked in an even 
heat of from 350 to 420 degrees. A sharper heat prevents 
these goods from rising properly. 

A temperature of from 300 to 350 degrees is termed 
"moderate heat" or "cake heat." 350 degrees is used for fairly 
rich layer cakes, 330 to 340 for cakes baked in frames or in 
slabs, from 1% to 2 inches in thickness. Light cakes which 
contain a large quantity of milk and baking powder, very soft 
mixtures, also mixtures containing starch and flour require a 
stronger heat, quicker baking. A heat of from 300 to 350 
degrees is termed a "moderate oven." This temperature is 
also called "steady oven" and rich heavy pound cakes, also 
large slabs, are baked successfully in this heat. The cakes 
must be well protected, baked in frames with asbestos bottom. 

In some ovens the heat may be maintained steadily, and 
sometimes increases, while in other ovens not heated con- 
tinuously the heat declines and drops. In the baking of large 
cakes it also depends on the size of batch. If a full oven is 
baked, the cakes protect each other, so to speak, and the steam 
rising during baking tempers the heat and the cakes bake more 
evenly, and a whole batch of cakes may be baked in a higher 
temperature than only a few cakes. If it is possible' it is best 
to bake a large batch of cakes, following the rule that certain 
kinds of cake of the same weight and size will bake more 
evenly and perfectly than a few in a given time, or at least 
make arrangements to bake large cakes to be used for Friday 
and Saturday trade, leaving some also for the Monday trade. 
This permits the cakes to be baked in full oven batches which 
bakes them better. 

Where this plan cannot be followed, to compensate for the 
lack of steam, the small batch of loaf cake may be protected 
by making an enclosed space in the oven, forming a frame of 

21 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



long bread tins filled with water, or build a frame of wood 
blocks previously soaked in water. This will be a great help 
in having the cakes bake up evenly. A small batch of cakes 
baked without protection seems to concentrate the heat upon 
the cakes and they bake up with a dry crust. The same cake 
baked in different temperatures will not be the same in appear- 
ance. Cakes containing fruit require a low but steady heat. 
Fruit cakes may be baked in a heat from 250 to 280 degrees, 
and most of the fruit cakes suffer from too much heat. If 
possible they should be baked with the door and damper closed 
so that the moisture is retained. A low but steady heat pre- 
vents the top and bottom from having the bitter, burned fruit 
and sugar taste often found in these cakes. 

The baking time is regulated by the weight and thickness 
of the cakes, also by the amount of fruit. It is well to have a 
pan of water near the fireplace in the oven and where the fire 
is too high or too strong drop it. This prevents hard crusts 
in baking. The size and thickness regulates the time of 
baking, but as the class of cakes varies and different heats are 
required for baking, the time can only be given approximately. 

Baking Periods 

Sponge cake, 8-10 ounces each, 30 minutes. 
Angel cake, 8-15 ounces each, 20 to 35 minutes. 
Sponge cake, blocks l 1 /^ inch thick, 2% pounds, 20 minutes. 
Angel cake blocks, 1*4 inch thickness, 2% pounds, 22-25 
minutes. 

Plain pound cake, i/2 pound each, 25-30 minutes. 
Plain pound cake, 1 pound each, 35 to 40 minutes. 
Pound cake with fruit, 1% pounds, 45 minutes. 
Pound cake with rich fruit, 2 pounds, 60 to 65 minutes. 
Pound fruit cake, 5 to 6 pounds, 2% hours. 
Heavy fruit cake, 7 to 8 pounds, 3% hours. 

The given time depends on the richness of the cake and 
also very much on the thickness and amount of fruit, so that 
variations must be judged accordingly. Cakes must not be 
disturbed too early during baking, which causes them to sink 
in the center. After baking the cakes are best left until quite 

22 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cold, and fruit cakes are improved if allowed to age for some 
time in a moderately cool temperature. 

In the small bakeries where there is a large mixed trade 
often several cakes are made from one mixture such as small 
loaf cake, wine cake, layers and cup cake. These cakes are 
often baked in temperatures ranging from 350 to 450 degrees 
right in succession with good results, while otherwise they 
would require separate heat. The larger goods are put in the 
oven in a corner where the heat is steady, with damper open ; 
next are baked layer cake, and by the time the cup cakes are 
dropped out ready for the oven the first cakes are partly 
baked, the cup cakes, which require more top heat, are put in 
the oven and the damper is closed. 

Pans for Cake Baking 

In baking large cakes practical bakers use standard sizes 
of tins, which may be bought from bakers' supply firms or 
made to order if so desired. The tins largely used for baking 
pound cakes and box cake are made of convenient size. The 
pans are lined with V2 inch white wood and the bottom is 
covered with asbestos. Pound cake tins are used with a 
perforated cover which prevents the cakes from forming too 
much crust and keeps them moist in baking. 

The tins are made' of heavy white tin with straight sides, 
lined with % inch to V2 inch white wood ; the bottom is cov- 
ered with heavy asbestos. These tins are lined with paper 
which remains on the baked cake. To prevent the asbestos 
soaking up the grease and becoming unfit for use, a piece of 
cardboard placed on top of the asbestos takes up the grease. 
This may be changed if it becomes too much grease-soaked, 
saving the asbestos. The sizes of tins are given: 

A pan 15x7% inches, 4 inches deep, holds 4 pounds plain 
cake or 5 pounds fruit cake. 

A pan 20x5 inches, 4 inches deep, holds 6 pounds plain cake, 
8 pounds fruit cake. 

A pan 18x714 inches, 3 inches deep, holds 3% to 3% pounds 
plain white or yellow cake — box cake. 

A pan 11x6 inches, 2 inches deep, hold 3% pounds fruit 
cake. 

23 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



A pan 18x11 inches, 1% inches deep, holds 2*4 to 3*4 
pounds wine cake or dark cakes. 

A pan 19x111/4 inches, IV2 inches deep, holds 2% pounds 
sponge cake or angel food cake baked in dry pans without 
lining. 

For special cakes, such as Christmas cakes, wedding cake, 
the sizes of pans are made to hold weights of from 3 to 10 
pounds baked in suitable tins or hoops with the proper protec- 
tion of several thicknesses of paper on sides and bottom to 
prevent burning or browning. The usual tins which are used 
in the baking of sheet cakes can be used by setting a wood 
frame in the pans to obtain straight sides, but it is preferable 
to have some pans of this size made to order of strong material 
and straight sides if the sheets are put together in two or 
three layers with jelly or marshmallow. This saves trimming 
and is more economical when preparing the cakes for sale. 



FLAVORINGS 
Butter Flavor Oil and Cake Flavors 

Butter flavors are used in many of the commercial cakes 
with success. The flavor oil as well as the concentrated 
extracts or oils may be bought from dealers in essential oils, 
and many bakers compound their own flavors. 

To use the concentrated butter flavor, which is at present 
market price $2.80 per pint, from 3 to 5 ounces are mixed into 
100 pounds of neutral fat or compound with from 3 to 4 pounds 
of fine salt. Sufficient of the flavored compound is prepared 
for several days' baking. Another method used is diluting the 
essential oils with deodorized cottonseed oil in smaller or large 
quantities, and salt is used in the mixing of the cakes. 



Butter Flavor Oil 

12 pounds deodorized cottonseed oil, 1% pounds oil of 
orange, % pound lemon oil, V2 pound walnut oil, V2 pound 
butterscotch flavor. 

For a smaller formula use ounces instead of pounds. Use 
1/2 ounce of this oil for 8 to 10 pounds neutral fats. 

24 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Mansfield's Butter Flavor Oil 

1 barrel white cottonseed oil (about 31 gallons), 4 pounds 
lemon oil, 4 pounds orange oil, 2 pounds rose oil, 2 pounds 
walnut oil, 2 pounds butterscotch flavor. Use 1 ounce oil for 
each pound of neutral fat. 

English Butter Flavor Oil 

200 pounds white oil, add 3 pounds orange oil, IV2 pounds 
lemon oil, 2 pounds walnut oil, IV2 pounds butterscotch flavor. 
Use from */2 to 1 ounce for each pound of neutral fat or com- 
pound. 

Lemon or Orange Flavor Oil 

6 pounds white oil, 1 pound of best grade of lemon or 
orange oil. Mix and use sufficient for flavor. 

Almond Flavor Oil 

8 pounds white oil, i/2 pound sweet almond oil, 4 ounces 
bitter almond oil. This flavor is used for white cakes, also for 
flavoring mocha almond cream. A combination of % part 
orange oil, V2 P ar t lemon oil, % part almond oil, may be used 
as a butter flavor or cake flavor. 

Spice Mixture for Dark Fruit Cake 

To obtain a uniformly spiced cake and to save time in the 
weighing out of small quantities of spices, mixtures of various 
spices may be kept on hand in well-covered cans. The addi- 
tion of a small part of sugar to mixed spices retains the essen- 
tial oil to a better degree. Use fresh ground spices of best 
grade. Take 2 pounds cinnamon, 1 pound allspice, 1 pound 
mace, % pound nutmeg, V2 pound cloves, % pound ginger, 
l 1 /^ pounds powdered sugar. Rub well together and keep in 
tightly closed jars. For light colored pound or fruit cake a 
combination of 1 part mace, i/2 part nutmeg, also the grated 
rind of lemons or oranges, is most desirable. 



25 



II. SLAB CAKE ,. BOX CAKE, 
LOAF CAKE 



WHITE BOX CAKE 

11 pounds standard powdered sugar, 7 pounds compound 
or 5 pounds compound, 2*4 pounds butter, 1*4 pounds milk 
powder, 5% pounds egg whites, IV2 ounces cream of tartar, 
1 pound cornstarch, 12% pounds bread flour, flavor of almond 
or vanilla or both, 2 ounces salt, 5% pounds egg white, 2*4 
quarts cold water. 

Cream 9 pounds sugar, shortening, dry milk and starch 
light. Beat egg whites stiff and add 2 pounds sugar. Add 
second part to first part with flavor desired, mix and add the 
water with salt dissolved, mix again, then add the flour with 
cream of tartar well sifted together and mix smooth, beating 
it well in the final mixing. Bake like pound cake. 

Silver Cake 

No. 1 — 8 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 2 ounces salt, 
% pound bread flour, V2 pound cornstarch, 1 pint milk are 
creamed together; 3 quarts of egg whites are beaten fairly 
light and added in small portions to first part. Add flavor and 
IV2 quarts milk; then 8V2 pounds cake flour, 1/2 pound pow- 
dered sugar, 2% ounces baking powder sifted together. 

No. 2 — Cream together 7 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 
milk powder, 6 ounces cornstarch, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds 
compound, 4 ounces bread flour, y 2 ounce salt, flavor of orange 
or vanilla. Beat light 2 quarts egg white, V2 ounce cream of 
tartar, add 1 pound powdered sugar. Mix with first part and 
add 3 pints cold water. Then add 1 pound cornstarch or rice 
flour, 8 pounds bread flour; beat mixture well in the final 
mixing. 

White Box Cake— Silver Slice 

Cream together 5 pounds powdered sugar, 4V2 pounds com- 
pound, 3 ounces salt, % pound dry milk, 10 ounces cornstarch, 

26 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



1 pound bread flour, 4 ounces butter flavor oil. Beat light 31/2 
quarts egg whites and add 3% pounds sugar, 1V2 ounces cream 
of tartar. Bring both together, then add % ounce soda dis- 
solved in 2% quarts water; add flavor and 6 pounds cake 
flour, 3 pounds bread flour. Beat light in the final mixing. 
Bake in 330 degrees. 

White Cake, Almond Cake, Marble Cake 

6 pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds com- 
pound, 2 quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk, 10 pounds cake 
flour, 6 ounces baking powder. Flavor of vanilla or almond. 

For almond cake add V2 pound of 'almond paste rubbed 
smooth with part of egg white or milk. 




For marble cake color a part with melted chocolate or 
cocoa, mixing it smooth with a little milk. Spread white 
mixture in bottom of pan, cover with chocolate mixture and 
cover again with white. 

Nut meats of various kinds, added to white mixture, makes 
another variety of block cake or small loaf cake. 

Use flour cream or sugar cream method, or mix as follows : 
Cream sugar and butter light, add half of egg whites and rub 
'light, add a couple of handfuls flour, rub smooth; then add 
other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix again, add flavor 
and milk, then rest of flour with baking powder sifted in. Mix 
smooth without overmixing. 

Small Loaf Cakes, Slabs, Layer Cake, Cup Cakes 

6 pounds sugar, 2% pounds butter and compound, 3 x /2 pints 
egg whites, 5 pints milk, 8 pounds strong cake flour, 3 ounces 
cream of tartar, li/ 2 ounces soda. 

27 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sift flour, soda and cream of tartar together with 1 pound 
of sugar. Cream 5 pounds sugar with shortening, gradually 




beat in half of the egg whites, add about 1 pound of the flour 
and mix smooth, add other half of egg whites beaten stiff, mix 

White Loaf Cake with Cornstarch 

again, then add milk, flavor and the remaining flavor sifted 
well with soda and cream of tartar, mix and beat smooth. 
Mixture may be made into a large variety of cakes, also in 
marble cake, as above, by adding chocolate. 

3 pounds butter and compound, 6 pounds powdered sugar, 
1 quart egg whites, 3 pints milk, 3 pounds cornstarch, 3 pounds 
cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder, vanilla or almond flavor. 
Mix like white cake above. Beat well in final mixing, bake in 
good heat — 350 degrees. 

White Mountain Cake 

Use previous mixture, leaving out cornstarch, using 6 
pounds cake flour. Bake in layers, put together 3 or 4 layers 
with icing or marshmallow between, ice top and sides, and 
sprinkle thickly with shredded cocoanut. 

Delicate Cake 

3^ pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 3 pints of egg 
whites, li/2 pints milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces corn- 
starch, 2 ounces of baking powder, flavor of vanilla or almond. 

28 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sift and mix flour, starch and baking powder. Cream but- 
ter and sugar light, beat half of egg whites in by degrees, then 
add about 1 pound of flour mixture; mix smooth, add other 
half of egg whites beaten stiff ; then add milk and flavor, then 
balance of flour and mix well. Bake in moderate oven, or 
about 300 degrees. 

Mixture is rather soft, but will bake nicely in moderate 
oven. May be made in small oval or round sizes, scaled in 8, 
12 and 20-ounce sizes. Bake in papered tins. Nut meats or 




freshly grated cocoanut may be added, or a few chopped nuts 
sprinkled on top, which is iced with vanilla, maple or caramel. 

White Layer Cakes 

6 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 2 pounds compound, IV2 
quarts egg whites, 2 quarts milk, 4 ounces cream tartar, 2 
ounces soda, S 1 /^ pounds cake flour, flavor of vanilla or mace. 

Cream sugar and shortening light, add egg whites in small 
portions, a couple of handfuls of flour with last portions of 
eggs; add flavor, lastly flour sifted with soda and cream of 
tartar. 

In the mixing of large batches a phosphate cream powder 
in place of the cream of tartar is preferred because it does not 
work out before the layers are put in the oven. Bake in 375 
to 380 degrees F. 

29 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



White Fruit Slab Cake; Nut Slab; Cherry Cake 

Cream 6 pounds sugar, % pound dry milk, 1 pound butter, 
2 pounds compound, '% pound flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch. Beat 
2% quarts of egg whites light, add in three portions to first 
mixture, mix and add 3% pints water, then add 1 ounce cream 
of tartar, 1/2 ounce soda and % pound of sugar sifted well into 
6V2 pounds cake' flour. Mix smooth. Add 1 pound finely cut 
mixed French fruit, or fine cut cherries or apricots or pine- 



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31 















apple, filberts, walnuts or almonds. Bake in blocks or slabs, 
put together or single, frost, and sprinkle a little of the fruit 
on top or mix with the icing. Cut in squares or slices. 

Chocolate Block Cake 

Use the previous formula and add 1 pound melted choco- 
late, 1*4 ounces cinnamon, V2 ounce cloves and leave out V2 
pound of the flour; use 314 pints water. Bake in layer sheets 
or blocks, put together with marshmallow, frost chocolate and 
cut in squares or slices. 

A variety of layers or Neapolitan cakes may be made from 
white mixtures by dividing mixture and coloring one part pink, 
one part chocolate, and leaving one part white. Bake in layers 
or slabs and put three colors together, fill with jam or jelly, 
and finish with different flavored and colored icings. Browned 
cocoanut and chopped nut meats may be sprinkled on icing 
and the cakes cut in pieces to sell for 20 to 30 cents or made 
up in larger layers. 

YELLOW BOX CAKES 

Different methods of mixing these cakes are applied in 
many bakeries. The use of dry powdered milk, creamed in 

30 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with shortening and sugar, is preferred by many bakers as an 
aid to better texture. In using pure vegetable fats which are 
richer than butter, it should be kept in mind that for every 
pound of butter left out only from 13 to 14 ounces of the fat 
should be used, with additional salt to add flavor. These fats 
also cream up more quickly than butter and the time of cream- 
ing must be shortened. 

In baking box cake containing baking powder, the usual 
pound cake tins may be used, but without covers, and these 
cakes require a higher temperature in baking, a temperature 
ranging from 350 to 400 or 425 degrees, depending on the 
richness of the cake. Standard powdered sugar produces the 
best texture, but part of fine granulated sugar, also small 
quantities of corn syrup, may be used in the yellow mixtures. 
Blends of cake flour and bread flour, with a small percentage 
of cornstarch or rice flour to give a short grain and texture, 
improve the baking qualities of these cakes. 

Standard Box Cake Mixtures 

No. 1 — 10 pounds powd. sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 2 pounds 
butter, 3 pounds neutral fat, 1 pound dry milk powder, 4 quarts 
eggs, 41/2 pints cold water, 6 pounds cake flour, 5 pounds bread 
flour, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. 

Reserve 1 pound sugar, sift with 3 ounces baking powder, 
6 pounds cake flour, 4 pounds bread flour. Cream 9 pounds 
sugar, syrup, fats, dry milk, 1 pound of bread flour, light, then 
add gradually the 4 quarts eggs, then the cold water and 
flavoring, lastly the mixed flour containing the baking powder. 
Mix well and bake as directed. 

No. 2 — 8 pounds sugar, 3% pounds neutral fat, 4 ounces 
butter flavor oil, 2 ounces salt, 10 ounces dry milk, 3 quarts 
eggs, 3% pints water, 5 pounds cake flour, 2 pounds bread 
flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2*4 ounces baking powder, flavor of 
vanilla, mace, lemon or orange. 

No. 3 — 7 pounds sugar, 1% pounds corn syrup, 3% pounds 
neutral fat, 2 ounces salt, 4 ounces butter oil, 10 ounces dry 
milk, 3 quarts eggs, 3% pints cold water, 6 pounds cake flour, 
2 pounds bread flour, 1 pound cornstarch, 2 ounces cream of 
tartar, 1 ounce soda. 

Mix Nos. 2 and 3 same as No. 1. Flavor as desired. 

31 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Gold Cake, Spanish Box Cake 

No. 1 — 8 pounds sugar, 1 pound corn syrup, 3 pounds com- 
pound, 1 ounce salt, 1*4 pounds butter, i/ 2 pound dry milk, 
li/2 quarts whole eggs, 1 quart yolks, 2 quarts water, % ounce 
soda dissolved in the water, 3% pounds bread flour, 3% 
pounds cake flour, 2 pounds cornstarch sifted with IV2 ounces 
cream of tartar, flavor of orange and lemon. 

Method of mixing : Cream fats with 4 pounds sugar, corn 
syrup, dry milk, salt and cornstarch light. Beat eggs with 
the other 4 pounds sugar. When fairly light bring both parts 
together, add flavor, mix and add water, lastly add the mixed 
flour and beat light in the final mixing. Bake in about 300 
degrees. 

Golden Cake, Spanish Cake 

No. 2 — Cream well together 7% pounds powdered sugar, 
4 pounds compound lard, 3 ounces salt, IV2 pounds bread flour, 
V2 pound cornstarch. When light add gradually 2^ quarts 
mixed eggs (half yolks, half whole eggs), then add 2 quarts 
milk, flavor of orange ; add 8 pounds cake flour, V2 pound sugar 
and 2V2 ounces baking powder sifted together, mix well, and 
bake in the regular box cake tins. 

Standard Fruit Slabs, Richer Grades 

No. 1 — 5 pounds powd. sugar, 2 pounds butter, 21/2 pounds 
compound, 1 ounce salt, 5% pounds eggs, 1 quart milk, 8 
pounds cake flour sifted with 1/2 ounce baking powder. Fla- 
voring, 6 to 7 pounds mixed fruit. Any variety of fruit may be 
used in the given mixture. Combinations of cherries and peel, 
sultanas and currants and peels. Milk must be used with 
discretion, depending on strength of the flour. 

Use the following method of mixing : Flour batter process — 
Cream 4% pounds flour with 4V2 pounds shortening and salt ; 
beat eggs and sugar together, and when fairly light mix both 
together, then add milk, then balance of flour containing 
baking powder, partly mix, and add fruit, finish without over- 
mixing. 

No. 2 — 6 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, 4 ounces butter 
oil, 2 ounces salt, 3 pints eggs, 314 quarts milk, 10 pounds 
cake flour, 2 pounds bread flour, 3 pounds rice or corn flour, 

32 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



4 ounces baking powder, 6 to 9 pounds mixed fruits, flavor of 
mace and lemon. 

For a dark cake brown sugar may be used and IV2 ounces 
spices added with good results. Use same process of mixing 
as in No. 1. 

Plain Nut Block— Black Walnut, English Walnut 

No. 1 — Cream together 3% pounds cake flour, 3% pounds 
butter and compound. Beat together 4y 2 pints eggs, 4V2 
pounds sugar. Sift together 1*4 pounds rice flour, 4 pounds 
cake flour,- 1% ounces baking powder. Bring flour cream and 
egg cream together, add flavor, then 2% pints milk, then flour 
with baking powder. When partly mixed add from 1 to IV2 
pounds ground walnuts, or freshly grated cocoanut, black wal- 
nuts, filberts or almonds. Flavor with almond, vanilla or 
lemon. 

The mixture may be made in blocks and also in small cakes 
to weigh about 1 or ±1/2 pounds. When the baked cakes are 
frosted add some of the same nut meats contained in the cake 
to the frosting. 

No. 2 — 8 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, IV2 ounces 
salt, 2 quarts eggs, 2% quarts milk, 11 pounds cake flour, 8 
ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor, 10 to 16 ounces ground 
nut meats. Mix as usual. Frost with vanilla and a few nuts 
sprinkled on top of iced cake. Bake in 350 degrees Fahr. 

Mixture makes 10 cakes, baked in wood-lined pans, size 
10!/2 x 20xli4 inches, paper lined. Two cakes, scaled 2% pounds 
each, when baked are put together with marshmallow, and 
cut in 10 slices 534x3% inches. 

LARGE CAKES— COMMERCIAL CAKE 

For high grade cake the old time poundcake, which is 
noted for richness, keeping qualities and flavor, due to good 
butter, is still a great favorite with patrons who are willing 
to pay the top price, and quite a number of bakers are making 
and selling poundcake of excellent quality. 

The simple poundcake is the base of all of the richer grades 
of wedding cakes and other heavy and light fruit cakes, adding 
the various fruits, peel, spices, etc., in different proportions. 
In the making of fruited cake, the fruit should be cleaned 

33 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and carefully examined for any objectionable substance, such 
as stems, grit or small stones. For the heavy fruited cakes 
the peel is best cut in small cubes, not in strips, except for 
special citron cakes, where it gives a better appearance if 
sliced. Almonds should be cut according to size of other fruits, 
and if any ground almonds are used these may be added with 
the eggs. The mixed fruit cake batter should be scalded and 
filled in the center of the prepared frame or hoop in one mass 
and gently pressed to sides and corners to smooth it evenly 
so that no air-space is left within the batter which may cause 
blisters or hollows in baking. 

A line of cakes are placed on the market which have the 
appearance of high-grade cakes and are fine eating, often 
looking even better than high-grade cakes; and bakers who 
have to compete with this line of cakes are wondering how 
they can be made and sold at such surprisingly low prices. 
Some of these cakes are made of the best materials. The 
wholesale cake baker buys his materials in large quantities at 
a lower price than the small cake baker. The large purchases 
and wholesale manufacture, with modern machinery and 
methods, enable him to place the cake on the market at a low 
price. In some of these cakes milk is used to replace eggs, 
and good neutral fats take the place of butter, the butter flavor 
being reproduced by essential oils. Dry milk is creamed with 
shortening and sugar, and water added in the place of liquid 
milk, and much of the fine texture is due to dry milk and the 
mechanical action of the cake machines, permeating the cake 
mixture with air cells. The cake machine is indispensable for 
these cakes, doing better work than by hand. Small quantities 
of cake mixtures may be worked by hand, but any amount 
above 4-pound mixtures is best worked by machine. 

In the making of cakes we suggest that bakers use discre- 
tion in the use of neutral fats, to give the best possible value, 
and get a reasonable profit. There is a class of trade which 
requires low priced goods; but quality goods have always 
proved to be a good trade builder. 

POUNDCAKE 

The old-time poundcake formulas have changed into many 
other combinations, and many of the plain cakes which con- 

34 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



tain no fruit are termed poundcake, but contain milk and less 
eggs, or butter and fats, also baking powder and more flour. 
The butter used for poundcakes should be of good body, as 
much as possible free from salt and water. Salty butter must 
be washed well to remove the salt. Should neutral fats be 
used in the place of butter it must be remembered that these 
fats are richer than butter and 14 ounces of fat take the place 
of 16 ounces of butter. The flour should be a good strong soft 
flour, or a good first patent bread flour, or a blend of both. 

Old Time Poundcake 

No. 1 — 1 pound sugar (standard powdered), 1 pound but- 
ter, 1 pint or pound of eggs, 1 pound of flour. 

Poundcake with Milk 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound neutral 
fat, 2 pounds eggs, V2 pint milk, 3i/2 pounds flour. 

Poundcake with Milk and Baking Powder 

No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 1 pound com- 
pound, 3 pounds eggs, li/2 pints milk, 6 pounds flour, IV2 
ounces baking powder. The flavor of good butter is improved 
by a small addition of grated rind of lemon or orange, also by 
the flavor of good ground mace or vanilla extract. 

No. 4 — 2 pounds 2 ounces standard powdered sugar, 1 
pound butter, 1 pound compound, 2 pounds (20) eggs, 2% 
pounds flour, flavor of mace and lemon or vanilla. 

These mixtures may be made by both methods outlined 
in the chapter on mixing, using the size of tins suggested for 
large cake. The cakes may also be baked in individual sizes 
to sell by the piece, sizes from 1 to 2% pounds being made in 
round, oval, and oblong or square shapes, with or without 
center tube. The small as well as the large cakes may be 
used with various fruits, almonds or other nut meats. It is 
suggested to frost the individual cake with an icing containing 
the flavor, also some nuts or fruit cut fine, to give the cakes 
a distinctive appearance. 

Special Poundcakes 

No. 5 — 11 pounds powdered sugar, 6 pounds compound lard, 
2 ounces salt, 12 ounces dry powdered milk, 3^2 quarts eggs, 

35 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



3% pints cold water, 7 pounds bread flour, 4V2 pounds cake 
flour, butter flavor. 

Method of mixing: Sift 11 pounds flour with 1 pound sugar. 
Cream 10 pounds sugar, compound, salt, flavor and dry milk 
with l/o pound strong flour light, add the eggs by degrees, then 
add water, and lastly the flour and sugar. Give this a good 
beating in the final mixing, then scale in the tins, and bake 
in covered poundcake pans. (See sizes given in opening 
chapter.) 

No. 6 — 5 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 3 pounds 
compound, 1% ounces salt, 12 ounces dry milk, 3 pounds (30) 
eggs, 1 quart water, 2 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake flour. 

Method of mixing: Cream not too lightly 3 pounds sugar, 
dry milk, butter compound, salt and 1 pound bread flour. Beat 
together the egg and 2 pounds sugar, beat eggs only fairly 
light, about half as much as for sponge cake. Bring both parts 
together by shaking the eggs lightly into first part, add flavor 
of lemon or mace with the water, mix again, then add the 
balance of flour and mix smooth. 

Light and Heavy Fruit Cake 

From the six formulas given all kinds of light and dark 
cake can be made. For 8 pounds of the given mixtures add 
from IV2 to 2 pounds fruit or nuts, or candied citron or orange 
peel. 

For a light mixed fruit cake add for 8 pounds of mixture: 
4 pounds seedless raisins, 1 pound currants, 2 pounds mixed 
peel cut in dice, % pound candied cherries or pineapple, flavor 
mace and lemon. 

Dark Fruit Cake 

2 pounds seeded large raisins, 4 pounds sultanas, 3 pounds 
currants, 2 pounds mixed peel, V2 pound figs, % pound almonds, 
1% pints dark molasses, grated rind and juice of 2 oranges 
and 1 lemon, IV2 ounces mixed spices. 

Citron Poundcake 

Add from IV2 to 2 pounds sliced citron. 

36 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sultana Poundcake 

Add from 2*4 to 3 pounds sultanas. 

Orange Poundcake 

Add grated rind of from 2 to 3 oranges ana 1 pound finely 
cut or ground candied orange peel. 

Walnut, Pecan or Hickory Nut Cake 

Add from 1 to 2 pounds chopped nut meats. Use sugges- 
tions given for frosting given with No. 4 poundcake. 

Plain Pound Cake — -Ice Cream Cake 

7 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 4 pounds compound, 1 
ounce salt, 4 pounds eggs, 2 quarts milk (or 8 ounces dry 
milk, 2 quarts water), 10 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread 
flour, % pound starch, 4 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace 
and lemon. 

Method of mixing: Put in machine 5 pounds sugar, salt, 
butter, compound, 1 pound bread flour, y± pound cornstarch 
(if using dry milk cream up with shortening) . Beat eggs with 
2 pounds sugar and add flavor. Add beaten eggs to first mix- 
ture, then add milk or water, then 10 pounds cake flour with 
baking powder well sifted together, and mix smooth. Bake 
this in sheets 1 to IV2 inches thick, in wood frame ; two sheets 
may be put together with various fillings, cut in slices or 
squares, fully iced and decorated. The mixture is also good 
for single sheets to be cut in small cakes, diamonds, dominoes 
and dipped cakes. 



37 



III. CAKES FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS 



WEDDING CAKES 

Standard fruit cakes, such as Christmas cake and the best 
grades of other dark fruit cakes, may be used for wedding 
cakes. To the regular selling price of these fruit cakes must 
be added the time spent for decorating, also the cost of ma- 
terials used for this part of the work. As a rule bakers 
double the selling price of such cakes and in this price is 
included the cost of finishing and decorating. A wedding cake 
of average size to be made up in three tiers requires about 20 
pounds of mixture. For example: 

2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds eggs, 2y 2 pounds 
flour, V2 pint N. 0. molasses, 1% ounces mixed spices, 3 
pounds sultanas, 3 pounds seeded Malaga raisins, 2% pounds 
currants, IV2 pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound 
blanched and sliced almonds, the juice and grated rind of 2 
oranges and 2 lemons. 

This mixture to be baked in three graduated hoops, the 
tiers to weigh 10, 6 and 4 pounds, respectively. After careful 
baking in low heat the cakes are trimmed, and each cake is 
given two coatings. For the first coating a firm royal icing is 
used to cover and level any rough spots, and when dry, a soft 
icing is used for the second coating. The last coat is best dried 
quickly in a warm place to hold the gloss. The cakes are 
then set evenly together in pyramid form on a special 
stand or board, covered with lace paper. Some confectioners 
have special stands of elaborate design which are hired out 
for the special occasions. The stands are made of silver and 
add greatly to the attractive appearance of the cakes. In 
finishing the cakes with various decorations, bakers will find 
it a great aid to use some of the many artificial goods sold by 
bakers' supply houses. Silver and gold leaves, dragees, sprays 
of flowers, vases, bells, slippers, horseshoes, bride and groom 
on a stand, and other ornaments, make it easy for even the 
less skillful decorator to finish a cake nicely. 

38 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Two or three tier cakes are popular; these are usually- 
topped off with an ornament made of gum paste. In some 




cases an extra price is charged for the ornament, or the 
decoration may be included. 

The prices of wedding cakes vary, caterers who make a 

39 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



specialty of such cakes charging from one to three dollars 
and more for the pound. 

It is the custom to present the guests at the wedding, when 
leaving, with a piece of wedding cake. Caterers bake slabs 
from the same mixture and cut oblong pieces 3 inches by 1% 



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inches. The pieces are fully frosted, decorated with initials 
of bride and groom and placed in more or less elaborately fancy 
boxes, tied with fancy ribbons, which are handed to the guests 
when leaving. 

White Bride's Cake, or Wedding Cake 

White cakes are sometimes favored in place of the dark 
fruit cakes. These are best made of a solid lady cake or 

40 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



delicate cake mixture without milk, also from the plain white 
mixtures. They are made with or without fruit, as ordered. 

Lady Cake with Fruit 

No. 1 — 3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 2 pounds 10 
ounces white butter, 1 quart egg white, % ounce cream of 




tartar, 3 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces cornstarch (for fruit cake 
take 3 pounds 6 ounces bread flour, leaving out starch), 
vanilla or almond flavor, li/ 2 pounds sultanas, 1% pounds 
cherries cut in quarters, 1 pound finely cut citron, V2 pound 
pineapple, 1/4 pound angelica (or 41/2 pounds of mixed fruit 
and almonds). 

Method of mixing: Cream butter lightly with even parts 
of flour. Beat egg whites and gradually beat in cream of 
tartar and 2 pounds of sugar. Bring both parts together and 

41 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mix lightly, adding flavor. Sift balance of sugar, flour and 
starch and add last ; when partly mixed add fruit. 




Lady Cake, White Poundcake 

No. 2 — 41/2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds butter, 3 pints egg 
white, Vz ounce cream tartar, % pint milk, 4% pounds strong 
flour, flavor of almond or vanilla. 

42 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





43 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds white butter, 1 quart egg 
whites, 1 quart milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of 
tartar, % ounce soda, flavor of almond, or % pound of almond 
paste dissolved in milk. Cream 2 pounds sugar light with 2 
pounds of butter, beat balance of sugar with egg whites, dis- 
solve soda in milk, sift cream of tartar in flour. Bring sugar 
and butter cream and beaten egg whites and sugar together, 
mixing lightly, add milk and flour in two portions, and mix 
smooth. 

Mixtures No. 2 and No. 3 may be used for chocolate or for 
marble cake, by taking a part of the mixture and adding 
powdered cocoa with a little milk, first placing a part of the 
white mixture in bottom of pan ; cover with chocolate mixture 
and cover this with white again. 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

Use any of the given mixtures, adding some ground 
almonds or almond paste, flavor with vanilla. This cake may 
be made also in layers, filled and iced with Lady Baltimore 
filling (see Fillings and Icings). 

BIRTHDAY CAKES 

There is no standard or special style in this line of cakes, 
but birthday cake is a line of cake bakers should encourage 
and cater for. These cakes are less expensive and can be more 
easily made than wedding cakes, and, as they are more fre- 
quently called for a nicely made cake is apt to bring other 
trade. The lighter grades of fruit cake, and, in fact, any other 
cake, such as sponge cake, angel cake and layer cake of all 
kinds, are ordered for birthday cakes, decorated as the fancy 
of the patron requires. Decorations vary; the inscription or 
lettering, consisting of a greeting, or a name, may be used as 
a center decoration, and lengthy lettering may be placed on the 
cake in circular fashion, the lettering placed evenly apart in 
the place of a border and a scroll decoration placed in the 
center. A border may be piped on top edge and bottom and the 
lettering may be slightly raised by piping it over several times 
with a finer tube. If candles are to be placed on the cake, nice 
artificial candle holders in the form of flowers may be ranged 
symmetrically around or in the center of the cakes, arranging 

44 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





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ilf Ql 








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i^^Sk : 4ii 


§I4hiI 


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P & 


i * 


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'^AY« 


3p 


1 








'i#3 


II * Mm 


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45 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





Hr**- +*". * wt 






m'4 






Em v ' ^j 






Bfl* ff f> . \ 






B^ ***^ - 






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CAKES FOR BAKERS 





47 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the decoration accordingly. With these candle holders, also 
various tinted candles, quite a nice effect may be produced. 
White scrolls and borders may be piped over with small pink 
stars or plain piping. A bottom border is desirable to cover up 
the space where the cakes meet the lace paper. This border is 
best made of scrolls or shells, applied with a large star tube, 
standing up on the side of the cake. 

CHRISTMAS CAKE 

The dark and rich grades of Christmas fruit cakes have 
decreased gradually and the lighter grades of fruit cake, plain 
pound cake and others are more favored by the public. But 




there is still a good demand for these cakes, and bakers are 
obliged to produce the different varieties to supply the demand. 
The rich grades of cake may be made early and kept on hand a 
month or several weeks before the busy season starts in, as 
these cakes improve with age. The weeks near to the holidays 
may be used for the less rich grades of lighter fruit cake and 
pound cake. In the decorating of Christmas cake, simple 
designs are the rule, designs which are easily exhausted, as 
the time required for very* intricate and artistic work cannot 
be spared during the busy season. The style of decoration 

48 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



may easily be varied following the most easily executed design 
which makes it possible to accomplish the work quickly. If a 
nice window display is intended, which often proves a great 
attraction and helps the sales, such display may be prepared 
early in the season as time permits. Fruit cakes are usually 
only decorated on the top. The top is iced with fondant or 
soft royal icing ; the border is made of scrolls or in many other 
variations using rope or loop designs, and the center is finished 
with the usual Christmas greeting. Colors may be used in the 
designs, sugar flowers, leaves, dragees, sprays of holly and 




other helps, which may be bought ready-made, can be used 
to facilitate the work and make the cakes more attractive. 
(See XVII. Preparing Cakes for Sale, for illustrations of 
Christmas Cake Tops.) 

Dark Fruit Cake 

Good ingredients are essential for all cake; a good tough 
butter which creams up well is desirable, and the salt should 
be washed out. If a neutral fat is used, salt may be added. 
The flavor of molasses is objectionable to some patrons and 
if this is left out a dark brown sugar and sugar coloring may 
be added, as burnt sugar is often extremely bitter. It should 
be used sparingly. Some bakers resort to browning the flour 
in the oven to obtain darker color. Brown sugar should be 

49 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



crushed and passed through a coarse sieve to remove lumps. 
In the following recipes the proportions of fruit may be 
changed according to prices obtained. Currants and some 
grades of candied peel, also nut meats, are very high in price, 
and small seedless California raisins may be used entirely in 
the place of currants. There is no set rule in the matter of 
fruits. A good neutral fat may be used in all cakes containing 
spices. The baking of fruit cakes requires great care, and to 
give gloss and to produce a smooth top the cakes should be 
washed with solution of one part molasses to four parts of 
water. 



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1 **wmMg5m* 



The method of mixing fruit cake is practically the same 
for all good fruit cakes. Sugar, shortening and spices are 
properly creamed, the eggs are added in small portions, then 
milk and coloring, if any color is used. The flour is added and 
a part of the flour is rubbed with the fruit to separate it. The 
cakes are scaled in the prepared tins, smoothed and washed 
with syrup. The sides and bottoms are well protected in 
baking with strong paper and the cakes baked in slow heat. 

Standard Christmas Cake Formulas 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 4 pounds butter, 4 pounds eggs, 
IV2 ounces mixed spices, l 1 /^ pints milk, 5 pounds cake flour, 
% ounce baking powder, sugar coloring, 6 pounds seedless 
raisins, 6 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds currants, 2 

50 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



pounds citron, 1 pound orange peel, 1 pound lemon peel, the 
grated rind and juice of 4 oranges and 4 lemons. 

Christmas Fruit Cake 

No. 2 — 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs (2 
pounds), 1 quart milk, 1/2 ounce soda dissolved in the milk, 3 
ounces of mixed spices, 3 pounds large seeded raisins, 6 pounds 




Sultanas, 1 pound citron, V2 pound cherries cut in halves, V2 
pound sliced blanched almonds, 6V2 pounds cake flour. Mix 
like No. 1. 

Fruit Cakes with Molasses, Standard Mixtures 

No. 1 — 4y 2 pounds sugar, 5 pounds butter and compound, 
5 pints eggs, 1 ounce soda creamed in with sugar and shorten- 
ing, 8 ounces mixed spices, 1 pint molasses, 10 pounds Sul- 
tanas, 10 pounds currants, 5 pounds citron or mixed peel, 5 
pounds cake flour. 

Fruit Cake with Dry Milk 

No. 2 — 7 pounds sugar; 4V& pounds compound; 2% ounces 
salt; 12 ounces dry milk powder; 6 ounces mixed spices; 4% 
pints of eggs ; 3 pints water ; 1/2 P m t molasses ; Vs ounce soda ; 
8^ pounds cake flour; 2 pounds large seeded raisins, 3 pounds 
Sultanas; 2 pounds currants; 1% pounds mixed peel; V2 pound 
chopped figs; % pound cherries cut in halves. Cream dry 

51 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



milk with sugar and shortening and finish like other fruit 
cakes. 

Low-Priced Fruit Cakes 

No. 3 — 8 pounds sugar ; 8 ounces mixed spices ; 1/2 ounce 
soda; IV2 ounces salt; 4 pounds compound; 4 ounces butter 
oil; 2 quarts eggs; 2V2 pints molasses; 2^2 pints milk; 12 
pounds cake flour ; 10 pounds seedless raisins ; 3 pounds large 
seeded raisins; 3 pounds currants; 4 pounds fine cut figs; 2 
pounds citron; 1 pound orange peel; the grated rind and juice 
of 3 oranges and 3 lemons. 

No. 4 — 2 1 /2 pounds sugar; IV2 pounds compound; V2 ounce 
salt ; 1 ounce soda ; 1 pint eggs ; 1 quart molasses ; 1 quart 
milk ; 6 pounds cake flour ; 6 pounds raisins and currants ; 1 
pound mixed peel; 2 ounces spices. 

Molasses Cake 

No. 5 — % pound sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 3 pints mo- 
lasses, 3 pints milk, 2 ounces soda, 2 ounces mixed spices, 6 
eggs, 6 pounds flour, 3 pounds seedless raisins, 1% pounds 
currants, V2 pound finely chopped citron. 

Apple Fruit Cake — Boston Lunch Cake 

3 pounds sugar, 3 pounds compound, 1 pint eggs, 3 ounces 
mixed spice, 3 pints milk, 3 pints molasses, 4 l /2 pounds bread 
flour, 4V2 pounds cake flour, 4 pounds canned apples, drained, 
finely cut and mixed with 1 pound of the flour, 4 pounds seed- 
less raisins; 3 pounds currants; V2 pound ground nut meats. 
Mix apples with other fruits and mix as usual. Scale mixture 
3 pounds in pan size ll^xG 1 /^^ inches, lined with Vi-mdi 
wood frame, double paper on bottom, single paper on sides. 
Cakes sell whole frosted on top, or cut in 3 pieces. 

Light Fruit Cake — Genoa Cake 

4V2 pounds sugar, 2*4 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 
5 pints eggs, 1 quart milk, 7 pounds cake flour, 1/2 ounce baking 
powder, 3 pounds Sultanas, 1 pound currants, pound cherries 
cut in halves, 1 pound citron, V2 pound orange peel, flavor of 
mace or almond. Mix like poundcake, using sugar or flour 
batter method. Bake in blocks or small frames. 

52 






CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sultana Genoa 

5 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds compound, 2 
quarts eggs, 2 ounces dry milk, 1 quart water, 8 pounds flour, 
2 ounces baking powder, 6 pounds Sultanas, 1 pound of mixed 
citron and orange peel. 

Mixed Fruit Cake 

6 pounds sugar, 4 pounds compound, butter flavor, 2 quarts 
eggs, 5 ounces milk powder, 2% quarts water, 2 ounces salt, 
12 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking powder, 5 pounds mixed 
fruit, 1 pound of mixed peel, flavor of lemon and mace. 

Madeira Cake — Small Loaf Cake 

3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pound compound, 3 
ounces dry milk, 3 pints eggs, vanilla flavor, 1 quart water, 1 
ounce soda, 5% pounds flour sifted with 2 ounces cream of 
tartar. Mix as usual, but mix well after adding the flour. 
These mixtures may be used for various kinds of nut cake, 
adding from % to 1 pound or less of fine chopped almonds, 
filberts, walnuts, etc., and if the nut meats are very dry a 
little additional milk may be added. Make small cakes from 
% to 2-pound sizes. 



53 



IV. ROLL-CAKES, LAYERS, ETC. 



It takes some practice to make a jelly roll or chocolate 
roll just right. The mixtures, especially the bowl mixtures, 
are made very soft, and must be baked in good heat. If the 
heat is too quick, the sheets are apt to blister in baking, 
which makes an unsightly looking roll. If the oven is too 
cool, the cakes bake too slowly, dry out and break easily when 
rolled. A little practice will soon tell which temperature is 
best suited for the mixture used for these rolls. 

Level, straight-sided pans of the usual size, 19x25x1 inch, 
should be greased on the sides and covered with a sheet of 
paper. The mixture must be spread evenly on the paper in 
the pan, using a bowl knife. Sponge mixtures may be laid 
out with bag and plain lady finger tube or by using a wide 
flat tube. While the cakes are baking, put another sheet of 
strong brown paper on the table, dust this lightly with spring 
flour, and turn the baked sheet on the dusted paper. Now 
remove the paper on which the cake is baked (this may be 
done by wetting lightly). Spread the softened jelly or marsh- 
mallow evenly over the baked sheet, then roll carefully by 
lifting the paper on the side nearest to you with both hands, 
press the sides of the sheet over and roll gently without too 
much pressure. Keep the roll in the paper until cold. Then 
unroll the paper and brush off the flour before cutting the roll 
in pieces. Some of the mixtures may require more heat in 
baking than others, and again some mixtures must be rolled 
quickly if oven is not just right, while, when quickly baked, 
they are best given a little time, when turned on the bench, 
before spreading on the jelly; if too soft when rolled the cake 
is apt to get heavy. To keep in the moisture so they roll 
better, the pan may be left turned over the cakes on the bench, 
especially if many rolls have to be rolled without extra help. 
These little points will soon be learned in practice. 

54 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Swiss Roll 

For Swiss roll beat together 24 eggs, 1% pounds powdered 
sugar, in kettle or machine until very light. Then add.lV2 
pounds sifted cake flour, flavor of lemon or vanilla. Run out 
on papered pans, with bag and plain tube, and bake in about 
400 degrees. When baked turn over and fill, spreading liber- 
ally with jelly or creams of different flavors. Eight ounces of 
cocoa or melted chocolate may be added for chocolate cream 
roll. 

This mixture, if carefully handled, and not baked too hard, 
may also be rolled when cold. It stays soft if well covered 
with paper or a pan. The cold roll may be filled with butter 
cream or other filling. The given mixture makes 2 pans or 
rolls 16x30 inches or 19x25 inches. 



Sponge Roll 

12 whites, 12 yolks, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 pound flour 
and % ounce baking powder, sifted together, vanilla flavor. 
Beat egg whites, adding gradually half the sugar till very stiff ; 
stir in the yolks and flavor, and lastly, other half of sugar 
sifted with flour and baking powder. Mix lightly as for lady 
fingers, and lay out on two pans same as the Swiss roll. When 
baked fill as directed. 

Bowl Mixtures — Chocolate Roll 

3 pounds sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pint whole eggs, 3 pints milk, 
2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substitute, 10 ounces melted 
chocolate, V2 ounce cloves, V2 ounce cinnamon, 4% pounds cake 
flour. Mixture makes 5 rolls on pan 18x25x1, and each roll 
cuts in 6 pieces. Roll while hot, fill with marshmallow. When 
cold cut and frost each cut separately. A few chopped nuts 
may be sprinkled on each piece. 

Method : Rub sugar and eggs together in bowl, melt choco- 
late, adding 2 ounces lard, add to creamed sugar and yolks with 
spice, then add milk and soda in two portions, mix well, and 
lastly, add the flour sifted with the tartar substitute. Bake 
in 350 to 400 degrees. Filling rolls with marshmallow softens 
the filling and the rolls are best made in the afternoon and kept 

55 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in the papers to cool and harden until morning, or set in a cold 
place, and used when required. 

Yellow Bowl Mixture 

No. 1 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs, half yolks, 1 quart 
milk, 41/2 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces tartar substi- 
tute, 3 ounces melted butter, vanilla flavor. Mixture makes 5 
pans. Mix like chocolate roll. Use for jelly roll, marshmallow 
or maple roll. 

No. 2 — Two Pan Mixture: IV2 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, % pint 
milk, 1% pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, flavor of va- 
nilla or lemon. 

No. 3 — Three Pan Mixture: Beat 10 eggs with 2 pounds 
light brown sugar in bowl, add IV2 pints of milk, then add 3^ 
pound cake flour sifted with 3 ounces baking powder. Mix well 
in final mixing. Bake on 3 pans. 

No. 4 — Four Pan Mixture (very low priced) : 3 pounds 
sugar, 12 eggs, IV2 quarts milk, 4% pounds soft cake flour, 4 
ounces baking powder, lemon flavor. Mix like other bowl mix- 
tures. Bake in 375 to 400 degrees. Do not roll too hot. 

Many Ways of Finishing Rolls 

No. 1 — Spread with jam or jelly, roll up as usual, when 
cold sift powdered sugar over the cut rolls. 

No. 2 — Fill with a good pastry cream filling, roll up, and 
when cold ice with chocolate and decorate with a row of wal- 
nuts or pecans along the center; sell by the cut or by the pound. 

No. 3 — Fill rolls with orange or lemon cream (see Icings 
and Fillings) . Cover the whole roll with apricot or other fruit 
jam and roll in short cocoanut, or omit the cocoanut and roll in 
fine granulated sugar. Decorate each cut with a slice of orange 
dipped in caramel sugar. Use the various nut creams, cof- 
fee flavored cream, and other fillings in similar manner, cover 
with appropriate icing. Mix lemon cream or orange cream with 
finely cut preserved pineapple, or add a few candied cherries 
to mixture. The outside of the roll may be covered with the 
same cream and rolled in sugar or fine cut cocoanut or other 
nut meats. The rolls may be covered with fruit flavored icing 
or fondant and sprinkled with chopped blanched. almonds light- 
ly browned or with short cocoanut colored pink or browned. 

56 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Another way is to color some of the roll mixture pink, and 
make some small thin rolls from Swiss or sponge cake mixture. 
Fill and roll up, cover the roll with jam ; then take some of the 
light colored mixture, bake and roll it around the colored 
center. This makes a nice looking roll when cut. The rolls may- 
then be finished on the outside similar to other rolls given 
above. 

The various Mocha or butter creams may be used for filling 
the Swiss roll mixture when cold. They may then be finished 
with butter cream or other icings as fancy suggests. 




Still another way is to color a part of any of the roll mix- 
ture with chocolate, another part pink. Use bag and tube and 
put mixture in alternating colors on the paper, spread even and 
bake. This makes ribbon roll or marbled roll which produces 
one more variety. When finished each cut should be placed 
on waxed paper. This is the best way to handle rolls in the 
store. 

Lunch Room Rolls 

In bakery lunch rooms, the rolls are sold in small cuts to 
make one portion, and when the fresh fruits are in season, 
strawberries, raspberries or fresh ripe peaches cut in dice, are 
mixed or spread over a thin marshmallow filling and made up 
in rolls. Each roll is cut into 10 to 12 cuts. They are very 
popular dishes to serve by the slice, with or without a spoonful 
of cream sauce or custard. 

This suggests the use of canned preserved fruits in the 

57 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



same manner. Apple sauce roll with cream is another popular 
delicacy for the lunch room, and has proved a good seller. 

SPONGE CAKE 

In sponge cakes, where eggs are the only lightening agent, 
great care must be taken in the mixing. These mixtures are 
divided into warm and cold mixtures, and as a rule in the 
warm mixtures eggs and sugar are beaten together. In the 
cold process the whites are beaten up cold, and the yolks are 
stirred lightly with a part of the sugar. The beaten whites 
are then added in several portions to the yolks and drawn in 
with the flour. 

In beating the whites a little sugar is added when the 
whites stand up. It must be put in a little at a time or the 
mixture will soften and become sticky. After mixture is 
beaten fully with a little sugar, the balance of sugar may be 
drawn in lightly, but without much mixing. This method is 
also used for meringue. 

One of the most important points to observe in all mixtures 
where eggs are beaten light is to have the utensils, beaters 
and kettle free from the least particle of grease. Even kettles 
which have been used to cream or beat up fats and have been 
cleaned may contain fat soaked in the metal, and when beating 
up a warm mixture this may enter and spoil the mixture by 
preventing the eggs from being beaten up properly. It is well 
to have separate kettles for beating eggs. At all times 
the bringing together of beaten eggs and flour must be done 
lightly ; the flour must be well sifted and dry. If water or milk 
is added it should be hot but not boiling, so it will not destroy 
the lifting power of the eggs by cooking the whites. 

Beating egg whites or whole eggs on too fast speed is apt 
to destroy the lifting power, and overbeating must be guarded 
against. The final mixing in of flour is best done by hand by 
turning mixture in a bowl. For small hand mixtures, such as 
lady fingers, etc., after the whites are beaten up and sugar 
added, the stirred yolks may be mixed in with the beater, not 
beaten in, only lightly mixed in. The flour may be folded in by 
hand, or using a skimmer or spatula ; or in mixtures where the 
yolks are beaten lightly in a bowl, the beaten whites may be 
drawn into the mix in several portions before adding the flour. 

58 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



If butter is added it should be melted and added last, when the 
flour is nearly mixed in, carefully, without overmixing. In 
warm mixtures it is better to have the flour a little warmed 
after sifting ; it will help the mixture. When beating whites, 
have them cold and see that they are free from yolk ; the yolk 
will prevent whites from beating up fully. Some flours are 
weaker than others, so a baker must use judgment adding a 
few more or less eggs. Prepare everything, such as tins and 
paper, etc., before mixing, to get the mixtures in the oven as 
quickly as possible. 




Tins or frames are used dry or greased and dusted with 
flour or fine sugar, or lined with paper. Dry tins must be 
perfectly clean or the cake will stick in baking or show black 
spots; dry baked cakes are turned upside down on cloths or 
bags when taken from the oven, and while cold they are 
loosened from the sides by pressing the finger lightly around 
the sides, or a knife may be run around the sides and the cakes 
knocked out. Ovens with strong bottom heat are apt to bake 
these cakes too hard on the bottom. A ring of paper may be 
placed in the bottom of the round tins, a square in others ; this 
helps to loosen »the bottom. For some other cakes the tins 
may be lightly greased with a mixture of about 2 ounces of 
flour mixed with 1 pound lard, or the tins or frames may be 
greased and dusted with flour. The cakes may also be baked 
in paper lined tins. 

Angel cake tins, or tins with straight sides and large center 
tube, are very convenient for sponge cake; the turk's-head 
forms are also used. A very popular size is a large ring form 

59 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



used by wholesale cake bakers. This form is 11 to 12 inches 
in diameter, 3 inches deep, with, a 4 inch wide center tube. The 
tins are lined with paper used for baking sponge cake and 
butter sponge, and produce a large looking ring cake about 3V2 
inches wide. A pan of this size holds from li/ 2 to 1% pounds 
of cake dough. This cake is put up in nice paper board boxes 
for retail trade. It is also sold by grocers by the cut or slice. 
Other cakes are baked in papered bread tins, scaled 9 ounces in 
dough, others again in sizes weighing from 16 to 18 ounces, 
using round, square or oval tins. 




Eggs may be warmed by laying the whole eggs in hot 
water, just hot enough for the hand to bear, or the broken 
eggs may be heated by setting kettle in hot water and stirring 
to warm them. The sugar may be sifted on a paper set on a 
pan and heated in the oven, then both sugar and eggs may be 
beaten up together, by hand or machine. 

Lady Fingers — Finger Biscuits 

No. 1 — 14 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1 
pound cake flour, flavor of vanilla or lemon. 

No. 2 — 1 quart egg whites, 1% pints yolks, 3 pounds sugar, 
half powdered, half granulated ; 3 pounds cake flour. 

Method : Beat whites stiff with a pinch of salt, add a little 
at a time % of the sugar; stir yolks light with balance of 
sugar and add flavor. Add yolks to meringue, mix lightly, and 
draw in the sifted flour. Another way is to beat whites light, 

60 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



add a little of the sugar, then mix balance into the beaten 
whites as for meringue, and then add the yolks, simply mixed 
without sugar, then the flour. Both methods work well. 

Warm process: Beat together 2*4 pounds sugar, 1 pint 
yolks, l 1 /^ pints whole eggs, setting kettle in hot water, or 
warming the sugar and eggs separately before beating up. 
Beat mixture until it does not flow readily from beater, then 
set kettle in cold water or beat in cold place until firm. Draw 
in 2 pounds 2 ounces cake flour and mix lightly but fully. 

All lady finger mixtures must be dressed up and baked off 
as quickly as possible, because the mixtures soften and the 
cakes run flat. Have pans and papers ready before starting, 
set up only a couple of pans at a time, and bake them off. It 
is best that one man tends to the baking, while the other 
dresses the fingers on the paper; this facilitates the handling 
of the mixture. Fill mixture in bag, using a plain tube. Use 
thick pans or double pans free from grease. Run in even 
sized fingers on the paper cut to fit the pans, sift powdered 
sugar over the fingers, then lift paper by two corners to shake 
off the surplus sugar and place on the pans. Bake in even 
heat of from 400 to 450 degrees to a light brown color. Take 
the baked fingers off the hot pans to prevent drying out. Do 
not use hot pans for baking again, as the heat may crack the 
fingers before they bake on top. Turn the cool fingers over on 
the table, wet the back of the paper with a brush, let soak a 
few minutes; then put two fingers together. Pile in even 
rows on store pans and sift a little icing sugar over each 
layer. This adds to the appearance, making them look better 
in the show case. 

Plain Sponge Cake 

Ten to 12 eggs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound cake flour, flavor 
of grated rind of lemon or orange or vanilla. Work mixture 
the same as for lady fingers, cold or warm. This mixture may 
be used for fingers and small drops as well as for small loaf 
cakes. Bake in papered tins on greased and dusted forms. 

Plain Sponge Cake With Water 

Three pounds sugar, 3 pounds eggs, 3!/2 pounds bread 
flour, 1/2 P m t hot water, flavor of lemon, orange or vanilla. 

61 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Beat eggs and sugar warm, and when they stand up well add 
the hot water, mix in fully, then take out the beater and 
lightly cut in the flour. Fill in pans and bake in good oven. 

Butter Sponge Cake — Warm Mixture 

Two and one-half pints eggs, 2 pounds fine granulated 
sugar, 12 ounces melted butter, 2 pounds strong cake flour, 
1 ounce baking powder, flavor of vanilla, lemon or orange. 
Beat sugar with eggs as usual, then add flavoring, then care- 
fully stir or cut in the flour and baking powder, also the 
melted butter. 

By adding an extra half pint of yolks with the whole eggs, 
this mixture may be made into golden sponge cake. The 
cakes may be baked in paper-lined rings, set on pans 
on greased paper and dusted with sugar before baking, or 
the mixture may be baked in dry tins, or angel cake tins, 
turned over after baking on bags to steam and then knocked 
out. 

Vienna Butter Sponge 

One and one-half pints eggs, 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces 
cake flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 5 ounces melted butter. Mix 
as suggested for preceding cakes. Bake in turk's-head or 
angel cake tins or in large ring forms, greased and dusted. 
Turn from the forms while warm and sift powdered sugar 
over cake. 

Low Cost Water Sponge Cake 

One pint eggs, 1 pint water, 2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds 
flour — 1/ 2 cake flour, V2 bread flour, IV2 ounces baking powder. 

Hot Water Sponge Cake for Machine 

Eleven pounds sugar, 3 pints whole eggs, 3 pints yolks, 
4 ounces melted butter, 2 quarts hot water, 8 pounds strong 
cake flour, 1% ounces soda, 2% ounces cream of tartar, lemon, 
orange or vanilla flavor. 

Method of mixing : Beat 8 pounds sugar, eggs and soda in 
machine for about 20 minutes; then add the other 3 pounds 
sugar and beat 5 minutes more; add the melted butter; then 
turn mixture into a bowl. Add the 2 quarts of hot water, the 

62 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



flavor, then the cake flour sifted with the cream of tartar. 
This makes 26 loaves of 18 ounces each. 

Victory Sponge Cake 

Three quarts yolks, 3 quarts whole eggs, 10 pounds granu- 
lated sugar, 3% quarts hot milk, 8 pounds bread flour, 
4 pounds cornstarch, 8 ounces baking powder, flavor of lemon 
or vanilla. Warm eggs and sugar separately, put in machine 
and beat up until light or from 30 to 40 minutes, then add 
carefully the hot milk and flavor; fold in the flour, starch 
and baking powder sifted together, carefully, without over- 
mixing. Use mixture for sheet cake, jelly roll or large cake. 
Get in the oven as quickly as possible. 

Ohio Orange Cakes 

Two and one-half pints egg whites, 2 pounds powdered 
sugar, 1 pint yolks, 1 pound 2 ounces granulated sugar, 
1 pound 10 ounces cake flour, i/2 ounce pure cream tartar, 
3 oranges. 

Method of mixing : Grate rind of 2 oranges and beat light 
with yolks and granulated sugar. Beat whites and when stiff 
beat in about V2 pound powdered sugar, a little at a time, then 
mix in the balance, as for meringue. Then turn into bowl and 
lightly mix in the yolks and fold in the flour. Bake in dry 
pans at 325 degrees. Turn over on bags to let cool. Run 
knife around the sides and knock out the cakes. Make a soft 
icing from the grated rind of 1 orange and the juice of 
3 oranges, add half water, and sufficient icing-sugar to make 
a transparent frosting. 

Size of pans for 11 ounces of dough: Top inside measure, 
8V2 inches long, 4% inches wide; side, 3% inches high; bot- 
tom, 3% inches wide. This size cake, iced as directed, is a 
very good seller. The mixture may be baked in large blocks, 
dry pans, size ll^xl^/kxl^, inches deep with straight sides. 
Scaled 2% to 3 pounds, two pans are put together when 
baked, with marshmallow or orange cream. Each pan makes 
10 cuts. Bake small pans in 325 degrees, blocks in 325 to 330 
degrees. 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sunshine Cakes 

One and one-half quarts yolks, IV2 quarts whites, 4 pounds 
sugar, 3 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, grated rind 
of 2 lemons. Stir yolks with 3 pounds sugar, add flavor, beat 
whites, add 1 pound sugar when nearly stiff. Mix like orange 
cake. Two ounces melted butter improves this mixture. Bake 
in dry angel cake tins, with a ring of paper in bottom, turn 
over and let cool. Ice with lemon-flavored cream icing. 

Angel Cakes 

One pound powdered sugar, 1 pound granulated sugar, 
1 quart egg whites, 14 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces cornstarch, 
1 ounce pure cream of tartar, vanilla flavor. 

Beat whites and add cream of tartar. When nearly firm 
beat in one-quarter of the sugar, mix in balance as for 
meringue, then add flour and starch and mix lightly but 
fully. Bake in 325 to 330 degrees. Bake in dry pans and ice 
with vanilla. The mixture may also be baked in the pans used 
for orange cakes. Scale blocks of the size given 2% pounds 
in dough and when baked put two blocks together with marsh- 
mallow, ice with vanilla cream frosting. 

This mixture may be varied, making a light sunshine or 
moonshine cake, by adding from 6 to 12 yolks to the beaten 
egg whites before adding the flour. Another variety is made 
by adding from 4 to 8 ounces powdered cocoa, sifted with flour 
and starch. Frost cake when baked with chocolate, orange, 
lemon or caramel icing. 

Chocolate Sponge Cake 

Take 30 egg whites, 36 yolks, 2*4 pounds coarse powdered 
sugar, 1/2 ounce cream of tartar, 8 ounces powdered cocoa, 
*4 ounce cloves, % ounce cinnamon, 4 ounces cornstarch, 
1 pound cake flour. Mix and sift together flour, starch, 
cocoa, spices and % pound sugar. Beat up the whites, beat 
in a handful of the sugar and cream of tartar, then mix in 
balance of sugar as for meringue. Now draw in the well- 
mixed yolks, lastly the flour and chocolate mixture. Bake in 
dry tins with center tube. Bake and turn on bags to cool. 
Frost with chocolate. 

64 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



A variety of this cake may be made by adding nuts, 
almonds or roasted filberts chopped fine, and ice with choco- 
late ; sprinkle a few chopped nuts on icing. 

Butter Sponge Cake, Bowl Mixture 

No. 1 — 3*4 pounds sugar — half powdered, half granu- 
lated — IV2 pounds butter, 1 quart yolks, 1 quart milk, 3V2 
pounds cake flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch, 11/2 ounces baking 
powder, grated rind of 2 lemons. Beat yolks light with 
2 pounds of sugar, cream together 1% pounds of powdered 
sugar and butter, add flavor and bring butter cream and 
yolks together. Add milk, lastly flour, starch and powder 
sifted together. Bake in sheets in paper-lined tins or in 
angel cake forms. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 1V2 pounds butter, 3 pints eggs 
(30), IV2 pints milk, 3 pounds 14 ounces flour, 6 ounces corn- 
starch, 2% ounces baking powder, vanilla or lemon flavor. 
Cream shortening light with half of the sugar, beat eggs 
with balance of sugar, mix and add milk, then flour, starch and 
baking powder. 

SPECIAL LAYER CAKE AND TART MIXTURES 

Poundcake mixtures, as well as the white and yellow com- 
mercial cake mixtures, may be made into layer cakes or other 
small cakes sold by the piece or slice. These cakes may be 
put together in two or three layers, or baked in large sheets 
or slabs and put together in two or three layers, to be cut 
into squares. There are many attractive fillings, fruit jams, 
jellies, butter and mocha creams and icings, and other creams, 
besides marshmallow, which may be mixed with nut meats, 
fruits, figs or dates. A very large variety of nut cakes may 
be made in layers or small cakes. Quite a combination of indi- 
vidual cakes may be made from the light, yellow and dark 
mixtures, baked in single slabs one inch thick, and the same 
mixtures may be put together in Neapolitan style, in layers 
of various colors, with different fillings and icings. 

French Gateau Mixtures 

No. 1 — 2% pounds standard powdered sugar, beaten with 
1 pint egg yolks, 1 quart whole eggs; 2V2 pounds of butter 

65 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



creamed with 2 pound? of strong cake flour, % pound corn- 
starch. Flavor with mace and grated rind of 2 lemons. Put 
these mixtures together. Bake in lined pan to make a sheet 
about two inches thick, in baking heat of about 340 degrees 
Fahr. The sheets may be cut in six-inch squares, put together 
with various fillings, top and sides finished in many ways. 

No. 2 — 1 pound butter, 1 pound powdered sugar, 15 eggs, 
1% pounds cake flour, vanilla or lemon flavor. Cream butter 
light with 1 pound of flour, beat eggs with sugar, mix both 
together, add flavor and remaining flour. This mixture, baked 
in one-inch-thick sheet, in paper-lined frame, is very suitable 
for small dipped cakes. They cut best when a day old, and 
may be kept on hand, if well covered, for a number of days. 

Gateau or Genoa Slab (for Small Cakes) 

No. 3 — 2 pounds butter, 2 pounds sugar, 16 eggs, scant 
*/2 pint milk, flavor of lemon or mace, 2 pounds cake flour. 
Use method of mixing previously given, add milk last, bake 
in one- or two-inch-thick slab in frame. The cakes may be 
cut or split with a sharp knife and filled with the various 
fillings suggested. 

Genoa Cakes With Fruit 

No. 4 — 1*4 pounds sugar, % pound butter, 1/2 pound 
neutral fat, IV2 pints eggs, 1% to 1% pounds fruit or peel, 
1 pound 14 ounces cake flour, y 8 ounce baking powder. Flavor 
to suit the fruits added. Bake in small round, oval or square 
forms, the day before using. The cakes may be finished off 
in many ways. Mixture makes from four to five small loaf 
cakes. By changing fruit and peel, and using nut meats, a 
very large variety of cakes can be made from this mixture. 

Vienna Tart Mixture, Warm Process 

No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 30 eggs, V2 pound butter, 
V2 pound cake flour, % pound cornstarch or potato starch. 

No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, 12 eggs, 12 yolks, V2 pound corn- 
starch, I/2 pound flour, 9 ounces butter. 

Method: Beat eggs and sugar warm until the mixture 
shows a creamy thickness and does not run off the beater 
easily, then continue beating until it cools so that it can be 

66 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



noticed by the feel of the hand on the kettle. If the mixture 
does not show sufficient firmness it may be returned to the 
fire and beaten up warm again and then again cold. The flour 
and starch are then drawn in lightly, followed by the melted 
and cleared butter. Flavor with mace and lemon. 

No.. 3 — Another Method : Heat 1 pound powdered sugar in 
the oven ; melt 9 ounces butter ; beat 22 egg whites stiff, then 
beat in the hot sugar; add 28 yolks to the meringue, with 
some lemon flavor; draw in % pound of starch and V2 pound 
cake flour sifted together, and lastly add the melted butter. 

Vienna Mixture, Cold Process 

No. 1 — 1 pound powdered sugar, 16 yolks, 15 whites of 
eggs, i/2 pound cornstarch, y 2 pound flour, 1 pound melted 
butter. Flavor with grated rind of lemon and mace. 

No. 2 — li/2 pounds powdered sugar, 20 egg yolks, 12 whites 
of eggs, 1 pound 2 ounces cake flour, % pound melted butter. 
Flavor. 

Method: Beat whites stiff and beat in one-fourth of the 
sugar; stir yolks lightly with the rest of sugar; mix both 
together carefully, add flavoring and draw in the sifted flour, 
and lastly add the melted butter. 

Sand Cakes or Sand Torten 

Sand cakes are made by the same methods, by the warm 
or cold process, as the Vienna mixtures just given. Many 
bakers are using the Vienna mixtures for sand cakes, because 
a lighter cake can be produced. The regular sand cakes are 
made with a smaller quantity of eggs, resulting in a more 
solid cake. The regular sand torte forms are imported. 
They are made from heavy pressed tin, with corrugated sides 
and round bottom, usually about 16 inches in diameter and 
4 inches deep, with a 5-inch center tube. Many bakers are 
using a large round tin with straight sides, 11 to 12 inches in 
diameter, 3 inches deep, with a 4-inch center tube. For the 
sand cakes the forms are greased and dusted, or a mixture of 
2 ounces of flour with 1 pound of fat is used for greasing the 
tins, and the cakes are turned out of the forms when baked. 
Some other bakers line the forms with paper. The well- 
known angel cake tins and the Turk's head forms are also used 

67 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



for baking these cakes. They are sold whole or by the slice 
or cut, without being frosted. 

No. 1 — Heavy mixture: 1 pound powdered sugar, 9 eggs, 
separated, % pound cake flour, % pound cornstarch, y 2 pound 
melted butter. 

No. 2 — Light Mixture: 1 pound sugar, 10 ounces cake 
flour, 6 ounces cornstarch, 15 eggs, 4 to 8 ounces melted 
butter. Flavor of lemon and mace. 

Method: For cold process, separate eggs, stir yolks until 
light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat whites stiff and 
beat in one-fourth of sugar; bring both parts together; add 
flavor; draw in the sifted flour and starch, lastly the melted 
butter. 

For the warm process, beat eggs and sugar warm and 
cold (see method, Vienna tart mixture), heat and melt the 
butter; mix sifted flour and starch in egg batter; then add 
the hot melted butter and fill in the prepared forms. These 
mixtures require a good heat in baking, the same as sponge 
cake. 

Nut Cake Mixture for Torten 

No. 1 — 14 pound ground walnuts or filberts, V2 pound 
almond paste rubbed smooth with 4 eggs; add 1 pound pow- 
dered sugar and stir until light with 16 yolks of eggs; then 
add the stiffly beaten whites of 14 eggs and draw in 1/2 pound 
cake flour. Bake in layers in medium heat. 

No. 2 — Rub smooth 1 pound blanched almonds or other 
nut meats with sufficient water in mortar; add this to 30 
yolks, beaten until light with 1 pound sugar; then add the 
beaten whites of 24 eggs and draw in V2 pound cake flour. 
Bake in medium heat. 

Nut mixtures are made also with chocolate. Some others 
contain small quantities of butter. They may be varied in 
many other ways. Vienna or sponge mixtures may be used, 
simply adding the nut meats to the finished mixture with the 
flour. 

French Chocolate Almond Cake 

Cream V2 pound butter and V2 pound powdered sugar until 
light ; add by degrees 24 yolks ; work smooth 1/2 pound almond 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paste with 2 eggs and add to creamed sugar and butter; then 
add 6 ounces powdered cocoa. Beat 12 whites stiff and draw 
in first mixture; then add 4 ounces cake flour, 2 ounces corn- 
starch, flavor of vanilla or spices. Bake in medium heat, 320 
to 330 degrees Fahr. 

Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mixture 

No. 1 — 1 pound melted butter, i/ 2 pound blanched almonds 
or almond paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, 8 ounces cocoa, 24 
yolks, 24 egg whites, 5 ounces sifted cake crumbs, 4 ounces 
flour and starch. 

Method : Rub almonds or paste smooth with a little water ; 
stir yolks until light with three-fourths of the sugar; beat 
whites stiff with one-fourth of the sugar. Add almond paste 
to yolks, then the beaten whites, crumbs, flour and cocoa, mix, 
and lastly add the melted butter. 

No. 2 — 16 yolks, 12 whites, V2 pound butter melted, 6 
ounces cocoa, 8 ounces cake flour, % pound sugar, vanilla 
flavor. Mix same as preceding formula. 

High-Grade American Tart and Layer Cake Mixtures 

No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 14 ounces butter, 
1 quart yolks, 1% pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound 
cornstarch, the grated rind of 2 lemons, flavor of mace, l 1 /^ 
ounces cream of tartar, % ounce soda. 

Method: Cream until light 2 pounds sugar and butter; 
beat the yolks until light with 1 pound of sugar ; dissolve soda 
in milk, sift flour, starch and cream of tartar together. Bring 
butter and sugar cream and beaten eggs and sugar together, 
add flavor ; mix in a handful of flour until smooth ; add milk ; 
then balance of flour and mix smooth. Bake in good heat. 

This mixture is well adapted for special layers and large 
tart cakes. Put together in from three to six thin layers, 
using any of the various creams, jellies or other fillings. It 
is especially nice for birthday torten, where a high-grade cake 
is desired. 

No. 2 — 1/ 2 P m t of yolks, % pint whole eggs beaten light 
with 1% pounds of powdered sugar. Add 4 ounces butter to 
V2 pint milk, heat together to near boiling point, or about 180 
degrees, but do not let boil. Add this to beaten eggs and 
sugar, mix together lightly, add flavor of lemon or vanilla, 

69 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



then add 1 pound flour — one-half cake flour, one-half bread 
flour, and 14 pound cornstarch sifted with % ounce baking 
powder, and mix smooth but lightly. Bake in layers or sheets 
in medium heat. 

This mixture may be varied by adding nut meats, finely 
chopped or ground, such as walnuts or filberts, or blanched 
and browned almonds. The fillings may consist of butter 
creams or nut creams. Chocolate may be used in the mix- 
ture as well as in the fillings. Baked in slabs, these may be 
split and filled, to be cut in diamonds, squares or other small 
individual cakes. 

Chocolate Cream Cakes. 

Melt 8 ounces chocolate with 4 ounces butter ; cream light 
3 pounds sugar, 21/2 pounds butter; add by degrees 5 pints of 
mixed eggs; sift 4% pounds cake flour with % ounce baking 
powder, add to egg and butter cream; lastly add the melted 
chocolate, and finish mixing. Flavor with vanilla, or pow- 
dered cinnamon and cloves. Varieties of this cake are made 
by adding nut meats of different kinds. 

Butter Sponge Layer and Tart Cake 

Beat 1 quart whole eggs and 1 pint yolks light with 2 
pounds sugar, warm. When light add V2 pint hot water, mix 
lightly ; add the grated rind of one lemon ; then add !/2 pound 
cornstarch, 2 pounds cake flour and % ounce baking powder 
sifted together; mix lightly and add % pound of melted 
butter. 

Good Layer and Sheet Cake 

Three pounds powdered sugar; 2 pounds shortening — half 
butter, half lard; 1 quart eggs; 1 quart milk; 4% pounds 
cake flour; 2% ounces baking powder. This makes a good 
all around mixture for slabs, layers and small loaf cake. 
Chocolate and nut meats may be added if desired. 

Method : Cream sugar and shortening ; add eggs in small 
portions; add a handful of flour after last portion of eggs, 
also flavor; then add milk and rest of flour and mix smooth. 
Use for squares, small loaf and individual cakes. 

70 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



THE FINISHING OF TARTS AND LAYER CAKES 

From the given recipes, in connection with the many fill- 
ings and icings presented in another chapter, the skillful, 
inventive workman can devise numerous different cakes, mak- 
ing them taste good and look attractive. The preparation and 
finishing of the cakes must be done to suit his patrons, as 
ordered. Too much sweetness in cakes is often disliked. This 
is a point often disregarded. There are also many bakers 
who use the rich icings as fillings, where a lighter filling, 
cream or marshmallow, would be more suitable. A tasty, not 
too sweet, fruit filling is always appreciated in a rich cake, 
with fondant icing, and a change of fillings and icings, by the 
use of different flavors and colors, often brings increased sales. 

Nut meats are very popular for finishing cakes. Blanched 
chopped and browned almonds, filberts and cocoanut are 
excellent for finishing the sides, which are first covered with 
a part of the filling used in the cakes, and then covered with 
the chopped nut meats. Perfect halves of walnuts or pecans, 
and French fruit glaces are used to decorate the iced top. 

Tart cakes are put together in two, three or four layers. 
Or the cake may be baked in one slab and split in layers 
after baking. The icing and decoration should always, as 
far as possible, be in harmony with the fillings and with the 
flavor and fruit or nuts contained in the cake, or with the 
name the cake goes by. 

When large cakes are to be sold by the cut, or served in 
slices, it is very handy to have design arranged accordingly. 
This is best done by dividing the iced top into eight or ten 
sections, and then drawing double lines to divide each piece 
from rim to center. Each slice may then be decorated with a 
scroll, nuts or fruits. 

Tins and Forms for Baking Tarts 

Tart layer cakes are best baked in straight-sided tins, 
from 10 to 12 inches in diameter and having a rim about an 
inch high. The straight sides are best, because no trimming 
is required. 

For the cakes which are baked two or three inches thick, 
there are wood-framed square tins and also round tins made 

71 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in one piece, with a large center tube, as well as rings of 
various sizes, made of heavy tin, in one piece. A number of 
rings of different diameter are used, which may be set on 
pans. There are also rings which open on the side, and which 
may be set to any diameter desired, a great convenience in 
making wedding and other cakes that are set together in tiers. 

TORTEN 

Queen Tart or Torte 

Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with strawberry 
jam, one layer with a filling of half almond paste and half 
currant jelly mixed together. The top is covered with a thin 
coating of marzipan and decorated with a white and chocolate 
butter cream, the sides being brushed with butter cream and 
finished with chopped nuts. 

Dresden Torte 

Three layers of Vienna or light sand cake mixture, flavored 
with grated rind of 2 oranges. When baked fill, and coat the 
top with currant jelly. Let stand for a while, then make a 
rather stiff macaroon mixture, and with bags and star tube 
make a lattice over the cake, and also a border. Then put a 
border of stiff paper around the cake, high enough to reach 
a little above the top, and set cake on a board in the oven to 
brown and bake the macaroon lattice and border. When done 
fill a little more jelly into the spaces, and finish the center of 
each with firm water icing. Decorate the sides with chopped 
nuts or otherwise. 

Duchess Torte 

Three Vienna bottoms filled, one layer with vanilla cream, 
one layer with pink colored almond cream, the top covered 
thinly with marzipan glaced with chocolate. Brush side over 
with apricot jam and sprinkle thickly with browned and 
chopped almonds; finish top in white butter cream; decorate 
with a few cherries. 

Mocha Torte 

No. 1 — Two or three Vienna bottoms, filled with coffee 
butter cream, glaced with coffee fondant or water icing. 

72 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 2 — One bottom of Vienna mixture with almonds, two 
bottoms of meringue. Spread first bottom with apricot mar- 
malade, meringue bottom with coffee cream, to which should 
be. added some ground roasted filberts. Cover top and deco- 
rate with coffee butter cream, or glace with coffee fondant and 
decorate with butter cream. 

Torte Marguerite 

Make a filling of % pound marzipan, % pound . sugar 
rubbed fine with a little water, and mix with % pound currant 
jelly. Fill three layers of Vienna or other mixture. Glace 
with pink, rose flavor, and decorate with white and pink 
almond butter cream by filling both colors in bag with a small 
star tube, so that mixture comes out in white and pink. 

Torte Parisienne 

Bake three bottoms of French Gateau mixture, fill one 
layer with vanilla cream and nougat, and one layer with filling 
used for Torte Marguerite. Spread top with raspberry jam 
and cover with thin layer of marzipan. Finish with vanilla 
fondant and French fruit glaces. 

Torte a la Conde 

Use Chocolate Almond Cake Mixture (see above), baked 
in one thick layer. When cold cut in two layers, fill with 
apricot jam, and glace with chocolate. Top may be decorated 
in portion style, with sweetened whipped cream or with vanilla 
butter cream. 

Metropolitan Torte 

Bake two Vienna bottoms and one nut cake bottom. Fill 
with the Marguerite filling, mixed with roasted and crushed 
filberts. Place nut bottom in the center, and before filling 
soak well in diluted currant jelly. Finish top same as Torte 
Parisienne. 

Orange or Lemon Cream Torten 

These are made in many ways. A Vienna or sponge cake 
mixture is flavored with grated orange or lemon rind, and the 
torte is made up in two or three layers filled with orange or 

73 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



lemon cream, or orange-flavored almond paste, or butter cream, 
or with a combination of these fillings. Similar combinations 
are made by adding pineapple glaces or preserves, freshly 
grated cocoanut or candied orange peel. Flavor glacing with 
rind and fruit juice. 

Special Orange Torte 

Bake layers of French Gateau or Genoese mixture. Fill 
with orange or lemon butter, and on top of each layer use 
layer of thin slices of oranges from which the seeds and pith 
have been removed. Ice with orange-flavored fondant, and 
decorate with orange split in the natural sections and dipped 
in caramel sugar. Fruit glace, or both oranges and fruits, 
may be employed for decorations. 

Almond Torte 

Bake bottoms of nut cake mixture No. 2. Fill with almond 
cream, or diluted marzipan mixture, finish sides with chopped 
browned almonds, and decorate with almonds or fruit glaces. 

Macaroon Torte 

No. 1 — Make a bottom of fairly firm macaroon paste and 
dress in paper-lined tin. Bake another bottom of the same 
paste, dressing it with bag and tube on wafer paper, or on a 
thin short paste bottom. Bake both nicely, spread one bottom 
with jam or butter cream, place the other layer on top after 
removing the paper, and decorate with chocolate or other icing. 
No. 2 — Bake a nicely executed top, dressed on paper with 
bags and star tube. Loosen paper by wetting the back. Bake 
one bottom of Vienna or Gateau mixture, fill with raspberry 
jam, and place the macaroon cover on top. Decorate with 
royal icing and fruit jelly. 

Chocolate Macaroon Torte 

Bake a bottom of short paste, and a top of macaroon paste 
with chocolate. Fill with a good fruit jam, place baked maca- 
roon layer on top, and decorate with jelly and royal icing. 

Nut Torten 

These are baked in a two or three-inch-thick cake from 
the given nut cake mixtures, simply iced and sprinkled with 

74 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



nut meats. They are also baked in two or three layers, and 
filled with various kinds of almond or nut filling. 

Nut Fillings 

No. 1 — y% pound nut paste or ground walnuts or filberts, 
1/2 pound of powdered sugar, mix smooth with sufficient 
water. 

No. 2 — 1/2 pound almond paste, V2 pound walnuts or 
roasted filberts, rubbed smooth with 1 pound sugar and water. 
These fillings, in conjunction with mocha cream, pastry cream 
and the fruit fillings, produce quite a variety of fillings for 
nut and macaroon torten. Chocolate, caramel or vanilla icings 
are most suitable with nut cakes. The decorations may consist 
of blanched almonds, walnuts or pecan halves, or filberts, 
dipped in caramel sugar, and French fruits may be added with 
royal icing to finish the torte. 

Meringue Torte 

Bake a fairly thick bottom with a border of almond short 
paste, or a plain short paste. Cover the baked bottom with 
raspberry or other good fruit jam. Make a meringue of V2 pint 
egg whites, 1 pound powdered sugar. Put on a lattice or net 
work and a good border with bag and tube, dust with sugar, 
set on board and color nicely in the oven. 

French Macaroon Torte 

Proceed as for Meringue Torte. Bake and fill bottom. 
Make a firm fancy macaroon paste, put on a net work and 
border with star tube; set on board, and bake the macaroon 
cover to a nice golden color. While hot brush over with a 
syrup to glace, then finish with royal icing and jelly, or deco- 
rate macaroon top with cherry and angelica before baking, 
then glace and finish. 

Alliance Torte 

Bake three layers, using chocolate cake, almond cake, and 
short paste or a white layer cake. Put layers together with 
yellow apricot, lemon or orange on one layer, raspberry or 
strawberry on another. Cover top with a soft macaroon paste 

75 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and put on a board, set in the oven to bake the macaroon paste. 
Then ice with fondant in three colors, strip or marble fashion. 
From the few samples it will be seen that many other 
fancy tart cakes may be made from fresh fruits in season, 
baking bottoms and borders, using fresh fruit fillings, with 
meringue or marshmallow or whipped cream tops, similiar to 
strawberry or raspberry shortcake. These cakes, if baked in 
slabs or thick sheets, may be made up into square cakes, or 
oblongs, frosted on top in one piece or sheet, cut in blocks and 
frosted on the sides, or finished with chopped nut meats as 
suggested. Chocolate cakes, white cakes, yellow cakes and 
spiced cakes may be thus put together in two or three layers. 
Some white mixtures may be colored pink, and cakes put to- 
gether in Neapolitan fashion. In fact, an endless variety may 
be created by the skillful baker. The lower-priced cake mix- 
tures may be used where the trade demands goods of medium 
quality. 



70 



V. MISCELLANEOUS CAKES 



KING OF CAKES— ROYAL CAKE 

These cakes are baked in round forms with a large center 
tube. The larger sizes are also baked in the large ring forms 
such as are used for butter sponge cake and sand torte. They 
may also be baked in the long tins used for cream breads. 
Several methods are used for mixing and finishing the baked 
cakes. The forms are greased and dusted with flour, or greased 
and sprinkled thickly with blanched and chopped almonds. 
When baked they may be left plain and sifted over with 
vanilla sugar, or they may be iced with fondant and sprinkled 
with nuts; or some fine cut cherries and nuts and peel may 
be mixed with the icing; or the cakes may be brushed over 
with apricot or currant jelly and covered with chopped nuts, 
The small cakes are sold by the piece, the large cut cakes by 
the pound. 

No. 1 — 114 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 28 
eggs, separated, 1 pound bread flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch, 3 
ounces sultanas, 2 ounces cherries, 2 ounces citron and orange 
peel chopped together. Flavor of mace and lemon. 

No. 2 — 25 eggs separated, l 1 /^ pounds sugar, y% pound 
butter, 114 pounds bread flour, 12 ounces mixed fruit. 

No. 3 — 24 eggs, IV2 pounds sugar, 114 pounds cake flour, 
6 ounces cornstarch, 9 ounces butter; flavor with grated rind 
of one orange, one lemon, and vanilla; 4 ounces sultanas, 4 
ounces walnuts, 4 ounces citron chopped and mixed with flour 
and starch. 

Method of Mixing: For No. 1 separate the eggs, cream 
lightly 1 pound sugar and butter, add the yolks by degrees, 
also the flavor. Sift flour and starch together. Beat egg 
whites light and beat in 14 pound sugar. Add half of the 
beaten whites to butter cream, mix lightly, and add half of 
the flour and starch, then draw in the other half of the beaten 
whites, and add carefully the rest of the flour mixed with the 
fruit. 

77 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



For Nos. 2 and 3 — Chop the hard butter in the cold flour 
in small bits, also add the finely cut fruit. Beat egg whites 
light and mix in the sugar as for meringue; mix yolks 
with flavor and lightly mix into the egg whites. Lastly 
draw in the mixed flour and starch containing fruits and 
butter, mix carefully, and fill into the greased and dusted 
forms. Bake in about 350 to 375 degrees Fahr. and finish as 
directed. 

Mocha Cream Cakes 

3 pounds standard powdered sugar, 2% pounds butter, 1 
quart yolks, 2% pints milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % pound 
cornstarch, 2% ounces baking powder, the grated rind of 
lemon. Cream butter light with the cake flour, beat yolks 
with 2 pounds sugar, add flavor. Sift cornstarch with baking 
powder. Lightly mix flour cream with beaten eggs, then add 
one-third of the milk, mix, and add the starch ; then add rest 
of milk and mix well. Bake in good heat, in sheets, blocks, 
layers or small individual cakes. 

The cakes may be put together with various flavored butter 
creams or mocha cream, made from IV2 pounds icing sugar, 
creamed light with V2 pound of white butter, or nut butter 
and 2 egg whites, 1% ounces cornstarch. Sift half of the 
sugar with the starch, cream the other half light with butter, 
adding egg whites. Use egg beater or machine if making up 
large quantities. Flavor and color as desired. 

A large variety of these cakes may be made by the use of 
different flavors. Fruit jams and jelly make a good filling for 
mocha cream cakes. The sides may be finished with cream 
and nuts ; border and center decorations may be made of the 
butter cream in various flavors, and centers of French fruit 
glaces, cherries and angelica are very attractive. 

By baking the cakes in pans and frames, allowing about 
1% inches in thickness when baked, nice squares and other 
small block cakes may be made to be cut and filled. Slices or 
bars may be made with the long strips of cakes, which should 
be about IV2 inches wide; have a border of butter cream on 
each side, filling the center strip with jam or different flavored 
creams, then cut in bars, using a sharp knife dipped in hot 
water. Or the sheets may be cut in rounds or ovals, the IV2- 

78 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



inch strips in squares or diamond shaped. Then the sides 
may be masked with cream, apricot jam or jelly, and rolled 
in lightly browned cocoanut or almonds. The tops may be 
decorated in various flavors and colors with butter cream, 
using a small star tube; candied fruits and half walnuts or 
pecans, or split almonds, may be placed on the iced tops. A 
little experience and skill will produce quite a wide variety of 
these large and small fancy cakes. 

Chocolate Mocha Cake 

2 pounds powdered sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces butter, 1 pint 
eggs, 1/2 pint yolks, 1 pint strong black coffee, 2i/ 2 pounds cake 
flour, 1/2 pound cornstarch, IV2 ounces baking powder, 5 ounces 
melted chocolate, 4 to 6 ounces ground walnuts. 

Method — Cream sugar and butter lightly, add some of the 
eggs, then add the melted chocolate, and the remaining eggs 
by degrees, then add the black coffee, lastly the flour sifted 
with baking powder. Mix fully and make up in layer cakes. For 
filling take s 1 quart of strong black coffee, 10 ounces sugar, 8 
yolks, 3 ounces cornstarch, 2 ounces butter. Set coffee, sugar 
and butter to boil, mix yolks and starch together, take some 
of the mixture before it boils and beat in the yolks and starch, 
and when it boils pour in the starch and yolks, stir and let 
thicken and take off the fire. Some chopped walnuts or 
browned and crusted almonds may be used in this cream. 
Cakes may be made in two or three layers, filled, then iced with 
vanilla, caramel, coffee flavored fondant, chocolate or mocha 
butter cream, and decorated with halves of pecans or walnuts 
with chopped nuts. 

Devil's Food Cake 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds shortening, 18 eggs, 12 
ounces melted chocolate, 1 ounce cinnamon, 3 pints milk, 4 
pounds cake flour, 3 ounces baking powder. Mix like other 
cake, adding chocolate last, and mix well. 

No. 2 — 3% pounds sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces shortening, 1 
pound chocolate, 1 pint yolks, 1 quart buttermilk, 1 quart 
sweet milk, 1% ounces soda, 3% pounds bread flour; vanilla 
flavor. 

Method — Put sweet milk and chocolate in the oven to melt, 

79 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



stir and add 1 pound of the sugar, dissolve and let cool, adding 
buttermilk. Cream 21/2 pounds sugar lightly with shortening, 
soda and eggs, add flavor, then chocolate, mix again, and add 
the flour. Mix well. Bake in medium heat, in layers or blocks, 
put together with marshmallow, ice with chocolate and sprinkle 
with chopped nuts. The cakes are improved by adding 
from 4 to 8 ounces ground nut meats. 

Tutti Frutti Cake — Prince Henry Layer Cake 

2V2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint yolks, % pint 
molasses, 1 ounce soda, IV2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 quart 
milk, 1% ounces mixed spice, 6 ounces currants, 6 ounces 
sultanas, 6 ounces candied orange and lemon peel, 6 ounces 
citron chopped very fine, 3% pounds bread flour. Cream 
sugar, eggs, shortening, spices and soda, add the milk and the 
finely chopped fruit, then flour sifted with the cream of tartar. 
Bake in medium oven. For layer cakes fill with maple-flavored 
cream or butter cream or marshmallow; ice with caramel, 
coffee or maple icing, sprinkle with chopped nuts. Double 
mixture makes six blocks 11 1^x18x1 V2 inches, wood frame put 
together as suggested. Each block makes ten cuts. 

Florence Cake, White or Yellow 

3% pounds powdered sugar, 1% pounds butter, 1% quarts 
egg whites, 1 quart milk, Z pounds 9 ounces cake flour, 1/2 
ounce cream of tartar, 14 ounce soda; vanilla flavor. Sift 
cream of tartar with flour. Cream 2% pounds sugar with 
butter, beat whites stiff, add 1 pound sugar, mix with butter 
cream, add milk and soda, also flavor, then fold in the flour. 

For yeilow mixture, take 1% quarts whole eggs, use flour, 
butter or butter cream method of mixing. Bake in medium 
heat, 350 degrees Fahr. 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

Use white Florence cakes or other white layer cake mix- 
ture, flavor with rose water. Fill and frost with marshmallow 
or boiled icing mixed with finely shredded nuts and preserved 
figs or mixed fruit and nuts. Make up in two or three layers. 

80 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Grand Duchess Cake Filling 

Mix even parts of finely chopped seeded raisins, figs, citron, 
walnuts and blanched almonds into a boiled icing or in fondant 
icing flavored with orange juice. Fillinto white layer cakes. 
Frost top with vanilla fondant and decorate with perfect 
halves of nuts. 

White Duchess Cake, Silver Cake, Marble Cake 

1 pound 4 ounces powdered sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint 
egg white, 1 pint milk, 2*4 pounds 'jake flour, 1% ounces 
baking powder. Mix as usual. Bake in 1-pound bread tins, 
or in paper-lined round tins. For marble cake leave out % 
ounce baking powder and color a part of the white mixture 
in separate bowl with melted chocolate or cocoa, adding a 
little milk. Spread some of the chocolate over a thin layer 
of white mixture in bowl, cover with another thin layer of 
white, again chocolate and white in alternating colors, now 
fill mixture carefully in paper-lined bread tins, or in small 
square wood-lined tins or round angel cake tins, paper lined. 
Ice in white with chocolate stripes or chocolate with white 
stripes, marble fashion. 

To produce a tri-colored marble cake a part of the white 
mixture may be colored a delicate pink, alternating with white 
and chocolate. Marble icing is very simply done; the cake is 
first iced in white or chocolate and finished with chocolate, 
white or pink stripes. The icing and striping must be done 
quickly, while the icing is soft, so the stripes and body run 
smooth together. Fill some of the icing used for stripes in a 
paper cornet and cut off the point, then ice the cake with the 
opposite colored icing. For round cakes draw circular or spiral 
lines over the iced cake with opposite color, for square cakes 
draw straight lines with the icing an even distance apart. 
Then draw the back of a knife in right angles across the lines, 
first from one side in even distance apart ; then draw the knife 
between these lines from the opposite side. This produces 
the effects given in the illustration. 

ASSORTED NUT CAKES 

Quite a variety of nut cakes may be made from white or 
yellow mixtures given. The sizes must be arranged as re- 

81 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 






HOW TO DO MARBLE ICING 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



quired. Various sizes of round tins with center tube, small 
loaf cake tins, may be used for individual cakes sold by the 
piece; long bread tins may be used for cakes sold by the cut 
or slice, or the cakes may be baked in wood-framed tins and 
baked in slabs, or two slabs may be put together and sold by 
the cut. 

Black Walnut Cakes, English Walnut Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 10 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2% 
pounds cake flour, 3 ounces ground walnuts, 2 ounces baking 
powder, flavor of mace and vanilla. Mix as usual, bake in 
wood-lined and papered pans. A size of pan 12%x20xl : (4 
inches, lined with i^-inch wood frame, makes 2V2 cakes; the 
mixture of 8 pounds of sugar produces 10 slabs of this size; 
two slabs put together with marshmallow, iced with vanilla^ 
with nuts sprinkled on top, makes 10 cuts 5%x3% inches. 

Pistachio Nut Cake 

Use white Florence cake mixture, flavor orange, add 2 
ounces of blanched and cut pistachios for one-fourth of mix- 
ture; bake in greased and dusted angel cake tins. Ice a deli- 
cate green, flavor with pistachio. 

Brazilian Nut Cake 

Use any good white or yellow mixture, add 1 ounce finely 
cut Brazil nuts to each pound of mixture; bake in papered 
square or oval tins, or use tins with a center tube. Ice with 
rose flavored pink icing, mixed with a few shredded nuts. 

Pecan Nut Cake, Walnut Cake 

Bake in sheets or in frames like black walnut cake, put 
together with almond cream filling or soft almond paste filling. 
Cut with sharp knife in large squares or diamonds. The top 
may be frosted with white vanilla or fondant, decorated with 
perfect halves, the sides finished with fine cut nut meats, or 
nuts may be used for a border and the center finished with 
the nuts by which the cake is known, such as pecan, walnut, 
filbert, etc. Sultanas, finely cut oranges or citron peel, may 
be added with the nut meats; this forms one other pleasing 
variety. 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



The nut cakes may be made up in Neapolitan fashion, 
using chocolate, pink and white layers, adding nut meats to 
fillings and icings. The cake may also be baked in sheets, 
three sheets put together iced only on top and sprinkled with 
chopped nuts, then cut in squares. The small individual cakes 
may be finished in chocolate, caramel, vanilla or coffee; all 
these flavors go nicely with nut cake. Some of these cakes are 
known as Victoria, Princess, Duchess or Florence Nut Cakes. 

Golden Rod Cakes 

No. 1 — Cream IV2 pounds sugar light with 11/2 pounds 
shortening. Beat IV2 pints yolks with 1 pound sugar, add 
grated rind of orange. Add eggs to sugar and butter cream, 
mix lightly, then add 1 quart milk, and lastly 3% pounds cake 
flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Fill in greased and 
dusted goldenrod tins and bake in medium heat. Mixture 
makes 20 cakes. Use the grated rind of orange, half orange 
juice, half water, and mix with icing sugar to make soft, trans- 
parent icing. 

No. 2 — IV2 pounds butter and lard, 2V2 pounds sugar, 14 
eggs, 1 pint milk, 3% pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking 
powder. Will make 1 dozen cakes. 

Lunch Cup Cakes 

3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 1 quart milk, 
4% pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda, 
12 ounces seedless raisins. Mixture makes 11 to 12 dozen 
large cups. Grease molds rather heavily to make a flat top. 
Bake in 325 to 340 degrees Fahr. Frost with orange icing. 

Orange Cup Cake — Small Individual Cakes 

21/2 pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds shortening, salt, % pint 
yolks, 1% pints milk, 3% pounds cake flour, 2 ounces baking 
powder, the grated rind of orange. Mix as usual, bake in 
cups or in paper lined round or oval tins, small angel cake 
tins, etc. 

Vanilla Cup Cakes 

No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 10 eggs, 1 
quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder, vanilla 
flavor. Mix makes 12 dozen. 

84 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 2 — li/2 pounds sugar, % pound lard, 4 eggs, 2V2 pounds 
flour, l 1 /^ pints milk, 2 ounces baking powder, vanilla flavor. 
Mix makes 8 dozen cups. Both mixtures may be made in small 
loaf cakes or layer cakes. 

Chocolate Cup Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, V2 pound shortening, 10 eggs, IV2 pints 
milk, 4 ounces powdered cocoa or melted chocolate, vanilla or 
spice flavor, 2% pounds cake flour, 11/2 ounces baking powder. 
Makes about 9 dozen cup cakes. 

Jellied Cup Cakes, Spiced Cups 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound compound, 1 pound jelly, creamed 
together; add 1% pints eggs in small portions, add 1 ounce 
cinnamon, 1% pints molasses, IV2 pints milk, 3% pounds cake 
flour sifted with 2 ounces baking powder. Bake in fairly 
good heat in well-greased cup cake forms. Vanilla icing. 

Spice Cup Cake 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, salt, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart 
water, 1 ounce soda dissolved in water, 1 ounce mixed spices, 
4 pounds cake flour. Mix like gingerbread and bake in cups. 

Spice Cup Cakes with Crumbs 

IY2 pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 2 quarts 
molasses, 2 quarts water, 3 pounds cake crumbs, 1% ounces 
soda, 3 ounces cream of tartar, IV2 ounces cloves, 1% ounces 
cinnamon, 6% pounds cake flour. Soak crumbs in water and 
dissolve soda. Rub sugar, lard and spices together, add eggs 
and molasses, then water with crumbs and soda, then add flour 
and mix smooth. Drop in well greased tins. Bake in 350 to 
375 degrees. Mixture makes 21 dozen. 

For spiced fruit cup cakes 1 pound or more of ground rais- 
ins may be added. Chocolate or cocoa adds to flavor. 

Drop Cakes 

No. 1 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, % ounce salt, 
1 pint eggs, 1 quart milk, 3 pounds cake flour sifted with 2% 
ounces baking powder. 

No. 2 — 4 pounds sugar, 1^4 pounds compound, salt, 1 pint 

85 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



eggs, 1 quart milk, 1*4 ounces ammonia, y 2 ounce soda dis- 
solved in milk, 4 pounds cake flour, 1 pound bread flour. Mix 
like cup cake and drop on well greased and flour dusted pans ; 
bake in good oven. 

Sponge Drop Cake 

1 pound sugar, iy 2 pounds cake flour, 1*4 ounces baking 
powder, sifted together; put in bowl and make a bay, add 
5 eggs, % pint of milk and 2 ounces melted butter, vanilla 
flavor. Mix well together and dress with bag and plain tube 
on greased and dusted pans, and bake in medium heat. When 
cool ice bottom of drops in white, pink or in chocolate. A 
warm marshmallow filling may be used, colored as desired, and 
shredded cocoanut sprinkled on icing while soft. 

GINGERBREADS, MOLASSES CAKES 

Good grades of molasses are rich in sugar. When using 
molasses in the bakery, as a rule it is dipped out from the top 
of the barrel, because it is too slow work to draw it from the 
faucet. When standing in the barrel, the sugar is apt to go 
to the bottom, making this part richer in sugar than the top 
part of the syrup. The richer part of the syrup should be 
reduced, or less sugar should be used if the formula contains 
other sugar, otherwise the formula becomes unbalanced, and 
the excess of sugar causes the cakes to rise and fall in the 
oven, or become coarse in texture. Rich molasses cake re- 
quires careful baking in moderate heat, and in baking the 
cakes must not be jarred or moved until set. Soft flours should 
be used, and ginger breads can be made very popular by using 
good grades of sugar and butter and good neutral fats instead 
of strong lard. 

The flavor of ginger alone is not very popular, and some 
grades leave a very bitter taste. A spice mixture containing 
5 parts ginger, 5 parts cinnamon, 5 parts allspice, 3 parts 
cloves, 2 parts mace or nutmeg, is a good one to use; 2 parts 
of coriander or cardamom may be added if this flavor is 
desired. The spices should be mixed well and kept on hand. 

Baking soda (carbonate of soda) is used, and is best dis- 
solved in milk or water. A slight addition of salt is desirable 
with neutral fats. 

86 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Large slabs are best baked in frames. It helps to make the 
cakes bake up evenly. Ovens which hold strong bottom heat 
are apt to burn the cakes on the bottom, which should be well 
protected with strong paper. In storing the baked cakes, as 
they are apt to soften they should not be piled together with- 
out double papers between to prevent loss by having them 
stick together. 

Southern Gingerbread 

No. 1 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 1 quart 
molasses, % ounce salt, 8 eggs, 1 pint milk, 1 ounce soda, 3% 
pounds soft flour, % ounce mixed spice or % ounce allspice, 
*4 ounce ginger. 

No. 2 — % pound brown sugar, % pound shortening, salt, 
1% ounces mixed spice, 4 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart milk, 
1 ounce soda, 4 pounds cake flour. 

Rub sugar, shortening, soda and spices together, add mo- 
lasses and mix well, add milk and flour and mix smooth. 
Mixture will fill pan 18x25 inches, set in wood frame 3 inches 
high, pan and frame greased and paper-lined. 

Eggless Gingerbread 

No. 1 — % pound sugar, % pound shortening, salt, IV2 
quarts molasses, 1% quarts water or milk, 2 ounces soda, 1 to 
1% ounces mixed spices, 5 pounds cake flour. This mixture 
may also be baked in cup cake forms and a few currants or 
sultanas may be added or sprinkled on top. Ice or leave plain. 

Eggless Gingerbread with Crumbs 

No. 2 — 2 pounds brown sugar, IV2 pounds compound, 1 
ounce salt, 1 ounce ginger, IV2 ounces mixed spice, 1 quart 
molasses, 1 quart or more milk, 3 ounces soda, 2 pounds cake 
crumbs, 6 pounds cake flour. Soak crumbs in milk. Rub 
shortening, sugar, soda and spices together, add molasses, then 
milk with crumbs, and lastly the flour. This makes a rather 
firm mixture, which may be put on flour-dusted table, scaled 
in papered pound loaf tins, flattened and washed with egg or 
with syrup. Bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. Frost or leave 
plain. 

87 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Loaf Gingerbread 

214 quarts molasses, mixed with 6 eggs; add 1*4 pounds 
melted shortening; take 1% quarts of water, add 2% ounces 
soda, % ounce salt, then add 6 pounds soft flour mixed with 
1 ounce ginger, % ounce mixed spices. Bake in 1 pound bread 
tins, greased and paper-lined. Makes 16 loaves. 

High Grade Ginger Cakes — Ginger Pound Cake 

3% pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound compound, 3% 
pints eggs, 1 pint milk, 3 pounds of preserved ginger cut in 
chips, V2 ounce ginger, i/£ ounce mace, 1V2 ounces cream of 
tartar, % ounce soda, 5% pounds cake flour. Cream sugar, 
spices, butter and eggs, add milk with soda, then flour sifted 
with cream of tartar; when partly mixed add the ginger, 
finely cut ; then scale out in small tins and bake in pound cake 
heat. 

Raisin Gingerbread 

V/2 pounds sugar, li/2 pounds shortening, 1 quart eggs, 1 
quart molasses, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spices, 1 ounce 
soda, 1/2 pint milk, 3 pounds sultana raisins, 4 pounds cake 
flour. Bake in small pound loaf tins lined with paper. 

Molasses Fruit Loaf 

3 pounds sugar, 1% pounds lard, 15 eggs, 3 quarts mo- 
lasses, 3 pints water, 1 ounce salt, 6 ounces soda, 3 ounces 
mixed spice, 2% pounds mixed fruit, raisins, citron, lemon and 
orange peel, finely cut; !/2 pound cocoanut or nutmeats may 
be added; 12 pounds cake flour. Fruit and eggs may be re- 
duced for a low-priced cake, more water or milk used if flour 
is strong. Mixture may be used for layer cake, slab cake, 
small loaf cake or cup cakes, in fact any size cakes may be 
made. A spiced fruit layer cake, iced with chocolate and made 
up with white strips, marble fashion, is a good seller. 

Spiced Molasses Cup Cake with Crumbs 

2% pounds cake crumbs, 2 pounds flour, 1 quart molasses, 
11,4 quarts milk or water, 1% ounces cloves and cinnamon, 2 
ounces baking soda dissolved in water. Soak crumbs in water, 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mix with molasses, spices and flour. Fill in well greased cups 
and bake in medium heat. Ice cup cakes with chocolate. 

Crumb Layer Cakes 

No. 1 — % pound sugar, i/ 2 pound lard, 1 ounce mixed 
spices, V2 ounce soda, 8 eggs, 12 ounces mixed fruit chopped 
fine, 2 pounds cake crumbs, IV2 pounds cake flour, sufficient 
milk to mix. Bake in greased and papered layer tins. Put 
layers together with chocolate or cream fillings or marsh- 
mallow. Ice with chocolate or caramel, and sprinkle with a 
few chopped nuts. 

No. 2 — 1/2 pound brown sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 
eggs, 1 quart molasses, 2 quarts milk, 3!/2 pounds cake crumbs, 
5 pounds flour, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces mixed spices, 1 ounce 
salt, 2 pounds chopped raisins. Bake in layers or large sheets, 
put together with jellies or marshmallow, ice and cut in bars 
or in squares. This cake improves when a day old. 

Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake 

Line round or square cake tins with a plain short paste, and 
fill about 1 inch deep with this filling: 4 pounds crumbs, 1 
pound ground almonds or other nutmeats, 1 pound seeded 
raisins, V2 pound chopped citron. Cream 1% pounds sugar 
and 1/2 pound shortening together, add IV2 pints eggs, add 
fruit and crumbs and a little milk. Bake like cake. When 
cold ice with vanilla water icing. 

Crumb Tart Cake Fillings 

No. 1 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound shortening, 1 pound eggs, 
1 pound cake crumbs, 2 ounces ground almonds, lemon and 
almond flavor; a little milk to mix. 

No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint eggs, IV2 
pounds crumbs, % pint milk; lemon or mace flavor. Choco- 
late or nutmeats may be used. Bake in sheets in pan lined 
with tart paste or in small tart forms. By using various icings 
and flavors a variety of fancy crumb cakes may be made. 

Molasses Crumb Cake — Washington Cake 

Soak 5 pounds crumbs in 5 quarts water, add 4 ounces 
soda, 1 quart molasses, V2 pound oil or melted lard, i/k ounce 

89 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



salt, 1% ounces mixed spices, 3 pounds mixed fruit ground 
fine; then add 7 pounds cake flour and mix well. Bake in 
large slabs, or in pans lined with a thin rolled pie crust. Ice 
and cut in squares. 

Chop Suey Cake 

No. 1 — 5 pounds cake crumbs, 5*4 pounds flour, 1% quarts 
molasses, 3 quarts water, 4 ounces soda, y 2 pound chopped 
nutmeats, 1 pound mince meat, 1 pound brown sugar, % 
pound shortening. 

Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes 

No. 2 — 1% pounds brown sugar, % pound lard, 1 quart 
molasses, 10 eggs, 1 ounce mixed spice, 3 pounds cake crumbs 
soaked in 5 pints water, 2% ounces soda dissolved in 1 pint of 
water, 4 pounds cake flour, 1 pound or less of chopped nut- 
meats, 1 pound seedless raisins. Mix like other crumb cake, 
bake in large pans greased and dusted, or lined with tart or 
pie paste, or in muffin cups. 

Mixture No. 2 is also baked in oval rings, which should be 
well greased and dusted with flour, set on a well greased pan. 
Use a size of oval ring 3% inches long and IV2 inches wide, 
1 inch high. Mixture makes thirteen dozen cakes. 

Crumb Cake, Fruit or Cup Cake 

% pound cake crumbs, % pound compound, 1*4 quarts 
molasses, 1 quart water, 2 eggs (may be omitted), 1 ounce 
soda, 1 pound small raisins or currants, 3^ pounds flour, cin- 
namon, vanilla or lemon and a little vinegar. This may be 
baked in sheets. For fruit and cup cake add a little more flour. 

WINE CAKE MIXTURES 

No. 1 — 6 pounds sugar, 3% pounds shortening, 2 quarts 
eggs, salt, 2 quarts milk, 9% pounds cake flour, 6 ounces 
baking powder, flavor of mace, lemon or vanilla. 

No. 2 — 4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, 1 ounce salt, 
1 quart eggs, 2 quarts milk, 6V2 pounds cake flour, 6 ounces 
baking powder. 

No. 3 — 5 pounds sugar, 2% pounds shortening, salt, 3 pints 

90 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



eggs, 2 quarts milk, 8 pounds cake flour, 4 ounces baking 
powder. 

No. 4 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 8 eggs, 3 pints 
milk, 5 pounds flour, 4 ounces baking powder. 

Wine cake mixtures may be used for larger block cake and 
mixed by either method of mixing. They are also made in 
small loaf tins, baked in papered pound-loaf tins. 

Layer Cakes 

No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, 114 pounds butter and 
compound, 1 quart eggs, 1 quart milk, 4 pounds flour, 3 ounces 
baking powder. 

No. 2 — 10 pounds sugar, half powdered, half granulated, 4 
pounds compound, 1% ounces salt, 1 pint yolks, 2 quarts whole 
eggs, 3 quarts milk, vanilla flavor, 3 pounds bread flour, 8 
pounds cake flour, 10 ounces baking powder (made from cream 
powder and soda) . Mix like other cakes, beat up light in the 
final mixing. Mix makes 63 9-ounce layers or 21 3-layer cakes. 

Yellow Slab Cake 

No. 3 — Seven and one-half pounds sugar, 3 pounds shorten- 
ing, 11/2 ounces salt, 2 quarts mixed eggs, 2% quarts milk, 
2 pounds bread flour, 6 pounds cake flour, 7% ounces baking 
powder. Makes six pans 19x25x1. By adding 8 ounces 
melted chocolate to one-third of mixture, and placing three 
sheets together, chocolate layer in center, mixture may be 
used for Neapolitan blocks. Jelly, cream, marshmallow or 
other combinations may be used for filling. Frost top plain 
white, or sprinkle with a few nuts or cocoanut; cut each 
block in 18 cuts. 

Low Priced Yellow Layer Cakes 

No. 1 — Seven pounds sugar, iy 2 pounds shortening, 1 
quart eggs, 2 quarts milk, 8V2 pounds cake flour, 8 ounces 
baking powder. 

Sponge Layer Cake, Sponge Roll 

No. 2 — Rub 4 pounds sifted light brown sugar with 1 
quart eggs and beat well, then add 3 pints of milk, 6V2 pounds 
cake flour sifted with 6 ounces baking powder. Bake in well- 

91 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



greased papered tins dusted with flour. This mixture may 
also be used for a plain jelly roll, rolled while hot. 

Formula for Loaf Cake, Wine Cake, Layer Cake, Cup Cak« 

Three pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds butter and lard, IV2 ounces 
salt, 11/2 pints (15) eggs, 1 quart milk, 4V2 pounds cake 
flour, 3 ounces baking powder, flavoring mace or vanilla. Mix 
as usual. To bake several kinds of cake from same mixture, 
mix and put large cake in oven first with damper open, next 
the layers, then drop out the cup cakes, put in the oven and 
shut dampers. With an oven heat of 350 to 400 degrees and 
a little practice the variety of cakes may be baked in the 
same baking heat by using the damper and. oven door for 
regulating. Close watching and practice make for success. 

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE 

Shortcakes may be made in large sheets, using the ordi- 
nary size baking pans, and two thin sheets, when baked, may 
be put together with a thin layer of meringue or marshmallow 
covered with berries. The bottom layer is best made a little 
thicker, so the juice of the fruit does not soak quite through. 
Sometimes another layer of berries is put on the top sheet 
and covered with meringue and cut in squares or portions, 
where the price can be obtained; but the top is usually left 
plain or covered with a little sugar or meringue, and a good 
size berry is put in the center of each portion for decoration. 
The various sizes of layer cake tins are also used. The layers 
may be baked thick and split in halves, or two thin layers 
may be put together with berries between them. Two or 
three layers are thus put together, and prices are charged 
accordingly. The cakes may be sold by the piece or slice. 
If berries are high priced, more meringue or marshmallow 
and less berries may be used; large berries are best cut in 
halves. 

Some bakers make a single sheet, rather thick, cover this 
with a thin layer of meringue, berries on top of meringue, 
and put a lattice of meringue over the berries, or put a full 
layer of meringue on top of berries. Dust with sugar, set 
pan on thick board, and let brown in the oven. If divided in 
portions or cuts a ring of meringue may be placed in the 

92 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



center of each portion, and after baking a good-looking berry 
is placed in this ring for decoration. 

These cakes may be made from any plain sponge or sheet 
cake mixture. Other shortcakes are made similar to a rich 
tea-biscuit mixture, which is very popular. 

Progressive bakers use other fresh fruits, ripe peaches, 
raspberries, blackberries, also preserved sliced peaches, for 
special cakes. Meringues may be made by covering a baked 
sheet of cakes with jelly or preserves, cover this with a thin 
layer of pastry cream and top off with a lattice or a full 
layer of meringue which may be cut in portions in similar 
fashion suggested for strawberry shortcakes. This makes a 
fine selling line of cakes for the bakery lunchroom. 

Shortcake — Biscuit Mixture 

No. 1 — Rub 14 pound butter, 3 pounds sugar and i/2 pint 
eggs together, add 1 quart milk, and 4 pounds cake flour sifted 
with 4 ounces baking powder. Make up in layers or sheets 
as desired. 

No. 2 — Two and one-fourth pounds sugar, IV2 pounds 
butter, 12 eggs, a good pint of milk, 3 pounds cake flour, 
1 ounce baking powder. Bake in layers or sheets and finish 
as directed. 

Lincoln or Washington Crumb Cakes or Pie 

Take 5 pounds crumbs, half roll, half cake crumbs, soak in 

4 quarts water and break up good; add 1 pint molasses, 

5 pounds seeded raisins, and 3 to 4 ounces mixed spices. Let 
this soak over night. Roll out a bottom from, pie crust and 
put in cake pan with high rims, 18x25x2. Fill in the mix- 
ture and cover with a layer of top crust. Prick with fork, 
egg wash and bake in medium oven for 45 to 50 minutes. Cut 
in squares when cold. 

Low-Priced Cakes for Large Institutions 

Twenty-five pounds sugar, 10 pounds lard, 1 gallon con- 
densed milk, 3V2 gallons water (or 4i/ 2 gallons sweet milk), 
48 pounds flour, 3 pounds baking powder, 2 pounds jelly. 
The jelly is added to keep cakes moist. Mix may be used for 
sheet cake or cup cakes. 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Low-Priced Jelly Roll, Bowl Mixture 

Four pounds sugar, 1 quart eggs or yolks, 2 quarts milk, 
4 to 6 ounces melted lard, 6 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces baking 
powder. Flavor as desired. Mix makes four thick rolls. Bake 
in not too hot oven. Roll while hot. 

Low-Priced Fruit Cake 

Two quarts water, 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 pound shorten- 
ing, 214 pounds raisins, 4 pounds bread flour, V2 pint molasses, 
cinnamon, ginger, allspice. Cook water, shortening and 
raisins, let cool, then add flour, spices and molasses. Bake in 
small single bread pans in medium oven. Makes 20 small 
cakes. 



94 



VI. MAKING PASTES 



The making of a perfect puff paste is an art which may 
only be learned by close observation and constant practice. 
The materials should be cold and the paste should be worked 
up in a cool place. The butter or other fats used should be 
tough and free from salt. Very salty butter should be 
rubbed in cold water to remove the salt and the water should 
be kneaded out. Dough and butter should be of the same 
consistency. If a softer variety of butter is used, the dough 
should be in harmony with the butter. The flour should be 
a good first patent spring or hard winter wheat flour or a 
blend of one-third cake flour, two-thirds bread flour. A strong 
flour adds to the keeping qualities, but if too strong a blend 
of soft and hard flour is preferable. The addition of one 
egg for each pound of flour adds to the lifting power, and 
by adding a little cream of tartar, or vinegar, the gluten 
becomes more elastic, which is said to improve the paste. 
Salt in the butter retards, prevents the puff paste from rising 
high in baking, but a little salt added to dough, especially 
when using a neutral fat, adds to the flavor. 

A special pastry butterine is made by different firms which 
is ideal for making puff paste, but as this product lacks the 
flavor of butter, some butter should be used to supply the 
lack. In places where large quantities of pastry are made 
it is the practice to mix butter and pastry butterine together 
in various proportions in the cake machine or dough mixer 
and use this blend in the making of puff paste, pie paste and 
Swedish or Danish pastries as required. For the high-grade 
puff paste, it is usual to take one pound of butter for each 
pound of flour. But it has been found that less butter pro- 
duces a less frail structure, which is not so easily broken. 
Fourteen ounces of butter, or even less when using butterine 
only (which is richer in fat) , makes a slightly less rich paste, 
but the rolling in of the butter is more easily accomplished 
and the same lightness is produced. 

95 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



PUFF PASTES 

No. 1 — 4 pounds flour, 3% pounds butter, 2 to 4 eggs, 
V2 ounce cream of tartar or the juice of one lemon, a scant 
quart of iced water. 

No. 2 — 4 pounds flour, 1/2 pound butter, 2% pounds pastry 
butterine, a little vinegar, a scant quart of cold water. 

No. 3 — 4 pounds flour, 3 pounds pastry butterine, V2 ounce 
cream of tartar, 1 scant quart of water. 

The method of working is practically the same for the 
three formulas given. Rub 8 ounces of the fat in the flour 
and mix into a smooth dough, slightly tighter than the butter, 
because the dough will soften by laying. Work it smooth and 
form in a square, cover with a cloth and let the dough lose 
its spring for half an hour or more in a cool place. To begin 
the rolling in of the butter, dust the table and dough with 
flour and roll dough into a long square, three times as long 
as wide and about one-half, inch thick. Place the butter 
evenly over two-thirds of the dough, then fold the bare part 
of dough over half of the butter, then the butter part over 
on top 11 the dough. This forms a square of three layers of 
dough with two layers of butter between. Press down the 
sides of the dough to inclose the butter on all sides, and begin 
rolling. Lift the whole piece around lengthwise, dust again 
with flour, and roll out carefully without too much pressure 
to an oblong about one-fourth inch thick; brush off any sur- 
plus of flour and fold in three. Let dough rest and keep 
dough covered between rollings to prevent crusting. Give 
two more rollings and foldings in three, give a rest, and then 
two more turns. This finishes the paste. Five turns or fold- 
ings are usually given for butterine, but practice together 
with observation will determine if one more turn or only a 
folding in two is required to finish the paste. As a rule, if 
the butter runs out in baking one more half turn may be 
given. But if the paste bakes out too tight or heavy, like 
scrap paste, it has been overworked and should have had one 
turn less. Running out of butter in baking may also be 
caused by oily butter breaking through the paste in rolling or 
the paste getting too warm between the turns, which softens 
the butter. Another trouble is caused by the butter getting 

96 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



too hard if the paste stands too long on ice before the rollings 
are finished. The hard butter will break through the softer 
dough. After the rollings are finished the paste is benefited 
by standing on the ice, and is better to cut out. If not quite 
certain that the paste has been rolled sufficiently, a small 
piece of the rolled-in paste may be baked to test it. 

The rests between the rollings are given to prevent the 
paste from shrinking. If the rolling and folding were con- 
tinued without intermissions the dough would become tougher 
than the butter and shrink in baking. For the same reason, 
when the pastries are cut out and set on the pans, a little 
time must be given on the pan to recover from the effects of 
the rolling. This assists and helps to make the goods bake 
up without shrinking. Pastries to rise high and evenly 
should have sharp-cut edges; dull knives or cutters push the 
layers of paste into each other and prevent even rising. 
When cutting out patties or tarts it is best to turn them 
upside down on the wet pans. This moderates the effects of 
the pressure. In washing pastries with egg 7 care must be 
exercised so the wash does not run down on the cut sides 
because this would prevent the even rising. All these little 
details must be observed in the making of puff paste goods. 
It may happen that it is necessary to use a soft grade of 
butter, which is difficult to roll in. About 4 ounces of flour 
may be worked into the soft butter to toughen it, and 2 ounces 
of the mixed butter may be rubbed in the % pound of flour, 
and the pound of mixed butter rolled in as usual. 

Quickly Made Puff Paste 

Chop from % to 1 pound hard butter into 1 pound cold 
flour, to form small lumps; then sprinkle cold water over, 
barely enough to mix, shake it up without working, press 
together and put on flour-dusted slab or table. Pass rolling 
pin over and fold into a square. Then roll out and fold in 
three, the same as regular puff paste, giving five turns. The 
same mixture is made by adding 1 ounce baking powder, or 
V& ounce cream of tartar or cream powder, and % ounce soda, 
sifting it in the flour, or dusting it in with some flour between 
the rollings. 

97 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



To Use the Trimmings of Puff Paste 

Trimmings are rolled together and may be used for goods 
which do not require to rise high, such as linings for tarts, 
for bottoms or slices, etc., but they may be made into good 
paste and reconstructed by rolling the paste into one large 
square and rolling in about 4 ounces butter, divided into small 
bits, for each pound of scraps. Give only a couple of foldings. 
From two to three times is sufficient. 

It should be kept in mind that puff paste is at its best 
when freshly made. If a dough is a day or two old it loses 
lifting power and does not rise so high in baking. If more 
puff-paste is made at one time than can be used the same day, 
it is better to divide the paste in two parts, and not finish 
the left over part entirely, giving the last two or three fold- 
ings the next morning before using. This keeps the layers 
of butter and dough separated and if put in a cool place it 
will keep in good condition. 

Baking of Puff Pastry 

The baking heat varies. Very small goods require a 
quicker heat than larger' pieces, and a good solid bread heat, 
even but not flashy, is best for the average goods. If the 
heat is too strong the crust is formed too quickly, not giving 
sufficient time for the paste to rise. This is especially so in 
the baking of patty shells. The large patties, known as vol- 
au-vents, require very careful baking. Cream slices or cream 
rolls require to be baked crisp, and must be baked in a slower 
heat ; too quick baking would leave a layer of only half-baked 
paste in the center, which is not desirable. 

THE MAKING OF PIE DOUGHS 

In the making of pie crusts the same rules hold good as 
in making puff paste. Have the flour, shortening and water 
cold, and mix and work up the paste in a cool place. Very 
strong flours, used for bread making, are not adapted for a 
good pie dough. Strong flours require more shortening and 
make a tough eating crust. Use a good soft winter wheat 
patent flour, if flour is too soft and heavy a little bread flour 
may be added. For shortening, a good firm leaf lard or other 

98 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



firm shortening produces the best crust. A little butter 
added gives flavor, but is very little used in pie doughs. As 
lard and other shortenings contain no salt, some salt must 
be added to bring out the flavor and make a tasty crust. The 
salt may be sifted into the flour or added to the water used 
for mixing. It is well to ascertain the proper quantity of 
water required for mixing. This prevents overmixing, and 
may be easily found by close observation. This is the best 
method of obtaining uniform pie crust. Much depends on 
skill in mixing. Two kinds of crust, top and bottom crust, of 
different richness, are used. Bottom crust is made slightly 
softer and less rich ; too rich a bottom crust is apt to become 
soggy in baking. For open pies, for which the bottom is 
baked before the filling is put in, such as lemon pies or cream 
pies, the crust is made slightly richer than for fruit pie bot- 
toms. 

The Mixing of Pie Crusts 

Have lard cold and firm, add to the sifted flour and break 
the lard in small bits, then flatten the pieces of fat with the 
flour between the hands in thin leaves. Do not rub much, 
rather squeeze or press, and shake the fat and flour together, 
then add the water and rather shake the ingredients together, 
so flour, water and shortening will hold together. Then 
throw on flour-dusted table, press flat with the hands, and 
fold sides to form a square, cover and let rest in ice box over 
night or until it hardens. Pieces of the proper size to make 
one cover should be cut or broken off, to make as little scrap 
as possible. Bottom crusts are usually made a little softer, 
but should not be over-mixed and toughened. Large quantities 
of pie dough are best mixed in dough mixer, but overmixing 
should be avoided, and it is better to divide large mixtures in 
several batches if mixing in machine. 



Pie Paste— Top Crust 

No. 1 — 5 pounds flour, 3 pounds lard, % pound butter, 
1 ounce salt, 1 quart water. 

No. 2 — 5 pounds flour, 2 pounds lard, 1 pound pastry but- 
terine, 2 ounces salt, 1 quart water. 

99 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 3 — 5 pounds flour, 2% pounds pastry butterine or 
compound, 3 ounces salt, a good quart water. 

Pie Paste — Bottom Crust 

5 pounds flour, from 2 to 2V 2 pounds lard or compound, 
2!/2 ounces salt; about l 1 /^ quarts water is used, according to 
quality desired. 

Custard Pie Bottom 

Three pounds flour, 1 pound shortening, 1 ounce sugar, a 
little salt. Rub shortening, salt and sugar into the flour, 
then mix with cold milk or water into a not too soft paste. 
A couple of yolks may be added for tart paste or when the 
rim is pinched up for decoration. This crust may also be 
used for baked bottoms. 

To obtain a nicely baked bottom for soft pies, roll bottom 
out slightly thicker than for fruit pies, trim the sides and let 
stand for half an hour before baking. This prevents shrink- 
ing. Dust with a little flour and place an empty pie tin with 
clean bottom on top of the paste. Put the bottoms in the 
oven and bake. When the paste which shows between the two 
tins begins to color, the top tin may be removed and the 
baking finished. 

Pastes for Cream Puffs, Etc. 

Cream puffs are made according to different standards of 
quality, but the most important part is the preparing of the 
paste, the proper scalding. In the cooking of the paste, put 
the water, hot water if handy, with the shortening on the 
fire. See that the fat is melted and let come to a good boil. 
Then stir in the sifted flour with the spatula or a strong egg- 
beater. Put the paste in mixing bowl or machine and work 
in the eggs by degrees, beating the mixture well between 
each addition. It is best to stir mixture a little to remove 
the extreme heat so as not to cook the eggs, but the paste 
must be hot while working in the eggs. Stir in the first part 
of eggs with spatula or beater and when cool enough finish 
by hand. More or less eggs are required to bring the mix- 
ture to the proper consistency. A too soft mixture causes 
very thin bottoms and makes a rather frail puff. Too firm a 

100 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mixture makes them small. Some bakers drop out the puffs 
by hand, by squeezing the mixture out over the thumb and 
forefinger, and cutting off with the forefinger of the other 
hand ; others use the bag and tube. The pans should be very 
lightly greased and dusted with flour. Washing the tops of 
cream puffs with egg wash before baking gives a pretty 
crack and color, but they may be baked without washing. 
Ammonia is used in puffs to produce a better crack. An excess 
of ammonia produces the contrary effect. Good puffs can be 
made without it, but a little ammonia is recommended. 

The mixing and panning of the puffs should be done 
quickly, in as short a time as possible, to get the puffs in the 
oven while the mixture is still warm, because when the puffs 
cool — and depending on the humidity of atmosphere — a thin 
crust forms, preventing proper expansion in baking. Eclairs 
are often made and let stand in the shop for a while so a thin 
crust forms; this produces a smooth top. 

The baking requires a good heat, but the oven should 
not be too hot or flashy; the flash heat will cause caps. A 
good but steady heat should be used and the oven door left 
open until the puffs are up; if too hot the damper may be 
drawn. If the oven is too cool a small puff results. The for- 
mulas used for puffs may also be used for eclairs, and the 
ammonia left out, to secure a smooth top, because the eclairs 
are iced, while the puffs are sold with a little powdered sugar 
sifted over. 

Cream Puffs 

No. 1 — 1% pounds bread flour, 1 pound lard, 1 quart 
water, about 24 eggs, % ounce ammonia. Mix as directed, 
add a little milk if required, add the finely powdered ammonia 
last, and mix well. Leave out the ammonia for eclairs. If 
both puffs and eclairs are made from the same mixture, finish 
mixture and set up the eclairs with bag and plain tube on 
very lightly greased pans, not dusted with flour. For the 
puffs add the ammonia, and drop puffs on dusted pans. Mix- 
ture makes 8 dozen large puffs, or 9 to 9*/2 dozen eclairs. 

No. 2 — 1 quart water, 1 pound lard, a pinch of salt, IV2 
pounds flour— half spring, half winter — pint of milk, 1 quart 
eggs. Add the milk to the hot flour paste in kettle; after 

101 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cooking the paste, put mixture in bowl and work in the eggs ; 
beat smooth and drop out on dusted pans. 

No. 3 — 1 quart water, 1 pound shortening, li/ 2 pounds 
strong flour, 16 eggs, V2 ounce ammonia, milk to mix smooth. 

No. 4 — 1 pint milk, 1 pint water, 12 ounces butter and 
lard, 1 pound bread flour, 12 eggs to mix smooth. Boil milk 
and water with shortening, then add the flour. This makes 
a rather soft paste before the eggs are added, but gets slightly 
stiffer when the eggs are worked in. 

French Fried Cake, Cruller or Spritz Kuchen 

No. 1 — % pound butter or lard, 2 ounces sugar, V/% pints 
water, l 1 /^ pounds bread flour, 15 eggs. 

St. Honore Tart Paste for Borders 

No. 2 : — % pound shortening, 1% pints milk, 1 pound cake 
flour, about 1 pint eggs — half .yolks, half whole eggs, to make 
a soft mixture which may be dressed up with bag and star 
tube so it holds its shape. 

The cruller paste, as well as the tart paste, is mixed the 
same as cream puff paste. 

MERINGUE PASTES 

Meringue enters often in the ordinary work and is used in 
many ways, for covering pies, making small fancy tarts, 
meringue shells, kisses, etc. Meringues are made very simply 
of beaten egg whites and sugar and are not difficult to make 
if care is used. All the utensils must be entirely free from 
grease or any kind of fat, because a spot of grease is apt to 
spoil the whole mixture. It is well to have a special beater 
and kettle for beating eggs or meringue, and care should be 
taken that the sugar is absolutely clean. The egg whites 
must be free from yolks. A medium grade of not too fine 
standard powdered sugar is considered best for the ordinary 
meringue. 

No. 1 — Light Cold Meringue is used for covering pies and 
tarts and sugar is used in various proportions. Some bakers 
figure an ounce of sugar for every egg white, others use from 
% pound to li/2 pounds sugar for each pint of egg whites, 
and these variations make a more or less strong meringue. 

102 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Standard Cold Meringue Paste 

No. 2 — 1 quart egg whites, 6 pounds powdered sugar or 
2 pounds granulated sugar and 4 pounds powdered sugar, % 
teaspoonful cream of tartar. Beat up the egg whites in 
machine or by hand, have the egg whites cold, the sugar dry 
and sifted. Beat slowly at the start and increase the speed. 
When the whites get firm, add a little sugar at a time and 
gradually beat in half of the sugar and cream of tartar. Add 
flavoring and draw in the other half of the sugar, using the 
hand or spatula. Avoid stirring and overmixing, which 
would soften the paste. If color is added this should be done 
before the balance of sugar is mixed in. This meringue is 
used for shells, Easter eggs, small pyramids and many other 
varieties. 

Hot Meringue Paste 

No. 3 — 1 quart egg whites, 2 pounds granulated sugar, 

2 pounds powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 
Put egg whites and granulated sugar in kettle, set in hot 
water bath, stir until it feels quite hot to the fingers, then 
put in machine and beat up on good speed until the mixture 
stands up well, add flavor and take off the machine, carefully 
draw in the powdered sugar. This meringue may be used 
for most all kinds of work, except fancy kisses, in which case 

3 pounds sugar should be beaten in and 3 pounds mixed in. 

Hot Meringue Paste 

No. 4 — Sift 2V2 pounds powdered sugar onto heavy paper 
and set on pan in the oven to get hot, then beat sugar and 
1 pint egg whites in machine until it stands up well ; flavor to 
suit. 

Light Boiled Meringue Paste 

No. 5 — Boil 2V2 pounds granulated sugar, 1 pint water, to 
240 degrees, beat light 1 pint egg whites, and by degrees 
beat in 1/2 pound powdered sugar, then add the boiled hot 
syrup in a thin stream, beating constantly, and beat until 
cool. 

103 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Heavy Boiled Meringue Paste 

No. 6 — 1 pint egg whites, 314 pounds granulated sugar, 
1 pint water, V2 pound powdered sugar. Boil granulated 
sugar and water to 240 degrees. Beat egg whites stiff and 
add powdered sugar, and finish like No. 5. 

The hot meringue, also the boiled meringue, are also 
known as Italian or French meringues. 

Gum Paste, Tragacanth Paste, Pastillage 

Put 2 ounces gum tragacanth in % pint cold water, cover 
and let stand in a warm place for about two days. When the 
gum has absorbed all the water, press it through a cloth or 
sieve. Mix with 1 pound icing sugar and work smooth. Put 
away in a jar and cover with a damp cloth. If the paste is to 
be used for lozenges, work in 2 pounds icing sugar with flavor 
and color to suit. For ornamental work, add starch in the 
same proportion as sugar. This makes a pliable, elastic paste, 
which can easily be molded in any shape or pressed in molds 
for figure work. It may be colored in any shade. A little 
bluing may be added to improve the white color. If the paste 
is too firm it may be softened by mixing starch and water to 
a soft paste and adding it, or some glucose may be worked in. 

Croquant Paste 

Mix 1 pound icing sugar, 2 pounds flour, and 2 ounces 
butter with sufficient egg whites into a smooth, workable 
paste. This paste may be used to make baskets and other 
ornaments which require a foundation. It keeps its shape 
well when properly baked. 

MACAROON PASTES 

Macaroons are today made from ready-made almond paste, 
which is more reliable and saves the labor of blanching and 
grinding the almonds. The old-fashioned way is to take 
1 pound blanched almonds, rub or grind them in mortar with 
some egg whites, then add 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar 
and make into a workable paste with more egg whites. The 
prepared almond paste contains sugar, and the rule is to take 
1 pound of the ready-made paste, 1 pound coarse powdered 
sugar — or half granulated, half powdered sugar — and mix 

104 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with sufficient egg whites to a paste which can be dressed up 
with bag and tube. 

In the mixing, grease must be avoided. The paste is best 
mixed if cut in thin shavings, then working in the egg whites 
in small portions, then adding the sugar. For plain macaroons 
the paste should not be too soft; this causes macaroons to 
bake up hollow. Also, if too much sugar is used, the bottom 
will break in when the cakes are removed from the paper. A 
temperature of 280 to 300 degrees is about right. Regulate 
the heat by opening the door, but not the damper, when bak- 
ing the macaroons. If using thin pans, better use double 
paper under the macaroons, or bake them on double pans, 
especially if bottom heat is stronger than top heat. Thick, 
heavy pans are best for baking. 

Plain Macaroon Paste 

Take 2% pounds almond paste, 1 pint egg whites, 2V2 
pounds sugar — half granulated, half powdered sugar. Mix 
smooth with half of the egg whites, work in the sugar and 
add balance of egg whites and work in well. The mixture 
should be just right to stand without running flat. Use a 
plain %-inch tube and dress on paper about the size of a 
quarter of a dollar. When dropped out the little point in the 
center may be pressed down, by using a wet cloth, before 
baking. It is best to bake the macaroons as soon as possible 
after they are set on the paper; if they cannot be baked at 
once keep them out of drafts to prevent crusting. When 
baked and cool, turn over on the table, wet the paper with a 
brush, let lay a minute, then turn over and take off the 
macaroons. It is the custom to put two macaroons together, 
and pile them in symmetrical order in pyramid fashion for sale. 

Fancy Macaroon Paste 

One and one-half pounds almond paste, % pint or more 
egg whites, 1 pound 10 ounces standard powdered sugar, 
2 ounces flour. Flavor with grated rind of lemon or orange, 
or some powdered cinnamon. Work the paste smooth as 
given for plain macaroons, with egg whites, add sugar and 
flavor. The mixture should be soft enough so it can be 
dressed with bag and star tube in various shapes. The paste 

105 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



may be used cold, but by warming the mixture it is softened 
and is easier to use, and dries more quickly. This paste is 
used for decorative borders on large cakes and tarts, and it 
may be used for making large pyramids from scrolls baked 
of the same paste, by adding 4 ounces more flour, which 
produces ,a more solid cake. The fancy macaroons, aLso 
larger scrolls for decorative pieces, may be glaced with a gum 
wash which dries quickly. This is made as follows: 

Glazing for Macaroons 

Mix 1 pound finely crushed white gum arabic with 3 ounces 
sugar, the juice of half a lemon and 1 pint of cold water; let 
stand for 36 hours. Stir and warm to dissolve, then strain 
and keep bottled in covered jar; apply with a brush. 

SHORT PASTES FOR LARGE AND SMALL TARTS 
Confectioners' Short Pastes 

No. 1 — 3 pounds soft flour, 2 pounds butter, 1 pound pow- 
dered sugar, 4 eggs. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds soft flour, 1 pound butter, 1 pound sugar, 
4 eggs, % pint milk. 

No. 3 — 3 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, 1% pounds sugar, 
9 eggs, 1/4 ounce powdered ammonia, flavor of mace, lemon 
and almonds. 

No. 4 — 3 pounds flour, 1/2 pound compound, 1/2 pound sugar, 
1 ounce baking powder, 31/2 gills water. 

Almond Short Paste 

No. 1 — 2 pounds soft flour, 1*4 pounds butter, 1 pound 
powdered sugar, % pound ground almonds or almond paste, 
6 whole eggs, 4 yolks, grated rind of lemon ; flavor with vanilla, 
ground cinnamon or almond. 

Method : Work sugar and butter together in a cool place ; 
add eggs, almonds and flour, work together, and allow mixture 
to cool and stiffen. A pinch of powdered ammonia may be 
added to short paste if a lighter mixture is desired. 

No. 2 — 21/2 pounds cake flour, i/ 2 pound butter, 1/2 pound 
neutral fat, 1 pound sugar, y 2 pound almond paste, 2 eggs, 
y 3 ounce ammonia. 

Method: Rub almond paste smooth with eggs; add sugar 

106 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and butter, rub together; add ammonia and -flavor; then add 
flour and sufficient cold water to make a smooth paste. 

The other short pastes are best made by first rubbing the 
flour and shortening well together ; then make a bay in center, 
put in the sugar and eggs, add flavor, mix, and work in the 
flour. 

Marzipan Paste for Cake Covering 

Work together 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound icing sugar 
and sufficient egg white to make mixture of such consfstency 
that it can be rolled out very thin. Flavor with orange or 
vanilla. Another method is to work in 1 pound of fondant. 

Marzipan Paste of Ground Almonds 

Take 1% pounds blanched sweet almonds, 4 ounces bitter 
almonds, and grind to a fine paste. Put this paste into a kettle 
on the fire with 1 pound powdered sugar, and stir until it is 
smooth and does not stick to the finger. This may be worked 
with more sugar into a smooth, pliable paste, flavored and 
colored to suit. It may be mixed with fondant in place of the 
sugar and molded into any shape. If paste hardens it may 
be made pliable with a little syrup or glucose. This paste may 
be used in many ways. 

Almond or Marzipan Paste for Decorative Use 

A firm paste may be made by softening 1 pound almond 
paste with 2 egg whites, 2 ounces glucose. Then work in 
sufficient powdered sugar to make it of the firmness required. 
The paste may be cut and shaped in any form, for making 
bars, wheels or forms of any kind used for window displays 
or cake tops. Small fruits may be modeled, the coloring mate- 
rial being mixed with the paste. For imitating fruits the 
cheeks are tinted with dry powder color, mixed with a little 
starch and applied with a wad of cotton. 

PATTY SHELLS AND TART CASES 

Patty shells are served with fillings of oysters or meats, 
and they may also be used for filling with creams and pre- 
serves, with the difference that the cases used for sweets 

107 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



may be glazed with syrup, etc., while those used for meats 
should not be sweetened. 

The Single Case or Patty 

Roll the paste out to %-inch thickness and cut with round, 
square, oval, heart- or diamond-shaped cutter. The plain 
patty is made from 2% to 3% inches in diameter. Set on 
wet pans, allow to stand for half an hour, then cut the center 
with a 2-inch cutter, but only about half through paste. The 
top only is then carefully washed with a light egg wash, seeing 
the wash does not run down the sides, which would hinder the 
paste from even rising in baking. Bake in medium heat. A 
case cut out of %-inch paste should rise to IV2 to 1^4 inches 
high in baking. When baked and while warm, remove the 
center or top piece carefully, by running a knife around, and 
in deep cases a part of the soft inside is removed to leave 
room for the filling. The tops are kept to use as a cover for 
meat fillings. When making shallow cases, where the top is 
not used, it is simply pressed down and the case is ready for 
any filling. 

Double Cases 

This case is made in two pieces. A thin bottom is cut out 
of y 8 -inch paste or scrap paste set on wet pans and washed 
with water. From paste y 8 inch to % inch thick a disk is cut 
out, of same diameter as the bottom, and the center is entirely 
cut out. The ring is placed evenly on the washed bottom, 
carefully washed with egg on top only, and after being given 
a little time to rest they are baked the same as the single 
cases. If the tops are required they may be baked separately. 

Continental bakers use a special plain stamped tart tin 
which makes a very light and crisp case. The tins are about 
2!/2 inches in diameter and 1% inches deep. These tins are 
made with a wide turned-over rim or edge, and are laid 
upside down on the baking pans. Disks are cut from i/ 8 -inch 
paste with plain or scalloped cutter about 3 inches in diameter, 
and pressed over the bottom and gently into the turned edge, 
being given some time to stand and recover before baking. 
Other ready-made cases may be baked in the different shaped 
fancy molds or tins, and the lightly greased tins lined out 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with puff paste, short paste or tart paste. To have the case 
hold its shape the center is filled with rice or beans. When 
baked the beans are shaked out, the case is brushed out, and 
is then ready for the filling. The beans or rice may be used 
over again many times. 

How to Use the Ready-Made Cases 

Having the cases ready for filling, many kinds of tarts 
may be made at short notice or to order. Fresh fruits in 
season, preserved fruits, cream fillings, or combinations of 
cream and fruits may be used, the finishing touch put on with 
icing, meringue, butter cream or whipped cream. These may 
be topped off with half a candied cherry, halves of nutmeats 
or French fruit glaces. In this manner an endless variety 
can be produced. Patty shells for meats and oysters should 
be high, so as to hold sufficient filling. But for sweet tart 
cases the rim or border should not be made too high, as it 
would hide the fillings of fruit or cream. 

Preserved fruits, made with more or less sugar and others 
even without any sugar, should be improved by draining off 
the juice from the fruit through a fine sieve. The juice is 
boiled down to a syrup by adding to each pint of juice from 
% to 1 pound of sugar, according to sweetness, and about V2 to 
1 ounce dissolved gelatine. The drained fruit is covered with 
this syrup, and when it cools and begins to thicken is placed 
in the cases, and the syrup used to mask it carefully, so as not 
to hide the fruit. This must be done at the right moment, 
when the jelly thickens but has not set fully. Coloring may 
be added to fruit juice if required. When using fresh fruit, 
berries, peaches or cherries, a part of the fruit may be crushed 
and made into a syrup; the other fresh and fully ripe fruit 
may be placed in a dish and covered with this syrup and 
handled in the same manner as the preserved fruit. Apricot, 
green gage, plum or gooseberry jam is much used for masking 
other fruits, also for filling. Apple jelly and currant jelly, if 
used for masking fruits or for covering, should be heated and 
used while hot. 

APPLE PASTRIES 

These pastries are very popular, though apples are one of 
the less expensive fruits. Apples may be used fresh or 

109 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



stewed, also in combination with raisins and a little good 
apple jam may be added to the more expensive fruits, such 
as strawberries, raspberries or cherries, when preparing the 
fruit. The pastries may be made in the form of turnovers, 
crescents, small dumplings ; or they may be made in the form 
of an open tart, or fully covered, or meringued, or the stewed 
fruit or jam may be filled in ready cases, covered with cream 
or whipped cream and used in many other ways. 

French Apple Tarts 

No. 1 — Roll out bottom of puff paste or short paste, put 
on a border of the same paste. Spread a thin layer of apple 
jam in bottom and lay fresh or canned apples cut in even 
slices on the jam. Bake to a nice color and mask with hot jelly 
when done. 

No. 2 — Prepare case as in No. 1. Arrange the sliced apples 
in circular fashion in the case, sprinkle with sugar and cinna- 
mon, cover each tart with a buttered paper and bake until 
done. Remove paper and dust again with sugar. 

No. 3 — Use ready-baked cases. For filling use slices of 
apples cut rather thick and simmered in cinnamon-flavored 
syrup until soft. Arrange slices neatly in the baked case. 
Place a cherry in the center and mask with the cold syrup. 

Apple Boats 

Line boat-shaped forms with short paste. Make a filling 
of finely chopped apples mixed with apple jam and a few 
sultanas, the grated rind and juice of one orange, and sweet- 
ened to taste. Fill forms quite full, wash rim, and cut strips 
of same paste to form a lattice ; egg-wash and bake to a nice 
color. 

Apple Chantilly or Apple Cream Tarts 

Fill ready baked cases partly with stewed fruit or jam and 
cover with border and lattice, or a pyramid of whipped cream, 
then decorate with red colored apple jelly. For cream tart, 
fill the ready-baked case partly with fruit, cover with pastry 
cream, and finish with a lattice or pyramid of meringue; 
brown lightly in the oven. 

110 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Fresh stewed peaches or apricots may be used in the same 
way as apples, with whipped cream or pastry cream. 

TARTS AND TARTLETS 
Strawberry Tartlets 

No. 1 — Use ready-baked cases of puff paste, short paste 
or rich pie paste. Fill a layer of pastry cream in the bottom 
of each case and cover with sweet ripe berries. These may 
be finished with a border of whipped cream, meringue or fresh 
marshmallow. When using meringue, brown lightly in the 
oven. 

No. 2 — Bake cases from any of the pastes as above. Fill 
with fresh berries, pyramid shape, cover with a jelly made 
as follows : Let 1 pint simple syrup come to a boil, add 1 table- 
spoonful dissolved cornstarch, and let boil clear, mix this with 
1 pint of apple or apricot jelly. Cover the fruit with this 
evenly. Another way is to use a gelatine jelly as given above. 
Raspberries or blackberries may be used in like manner. 

Cherry Tartlets 

Remove the stones from the fresh fruit without undue 
crushing, simmer in syrup, and when nearly cold arrange 
fruit in cases and mask with the cold syrup. Or the fruit 
may be baked in the lined cases, sweetened and flavored with 
cinnamon, and afterwards covered with some hot jelly or 
cold jellied syrup. Or the baked case may be partly filled 
with pastry cream, covering this with the stewed fruit and 
finishing top with meringue or marshmallow. There are many 
other ways of using the prepared fruit or berries. Stewed 
figs, prunes or pineapple in ready-baked cases are very handy 
for the bakery lunchroom, and the cases can be made very 
attractive by brushing the sides with hot jelly and covering 
this with shredded cocoanut, chopped browned filberts or 
almonds, or pistachio nuts. 

Tartlet Carnival 

Under this name a variety of fruit cream tarts are made 
which may be prepared on short notice with ready-baked cases 
made of puff paste or short paste, also by using small shallow 
cakes baked in tart or cup cake forms. Fresh fruits in season, 

ill 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



very ripe and tender, also the preserved fruit and fruit jams, 
may be used for these tarts. 

Peach Carnival 

Put a spoonful of pastry cream or whipped cream in a 
shallow ready-baked tart case, cover this with half a fresh or 
preserved peach or apricot, etc. Cover the fruit with a crisp 
baked cover of the same paste used for the case, disguise the 
sides with a border of whipped cream, marshmallow or 
meringue, finish center with a star or ring, and top off with 
perfect halves of nuts or a cherry or a fresh berry dipped in 
jelly. Use other fruits the same as peaches. 

Another way is to bake small cakes, and cut a small cone 
from center. Brush sides with jelly or cream and cover with 
browned chopped nut meats. Put a dot of cream in the cavity, 
cover the cream with any fresh or preserved fruit and cover 
the fruit with a pyramid of whipped cream, marshmallow or 
meringue. Sprinkle a few browned chopped nuts on top, or 
finish with half a cherry in the center. 

Open Fruit Tarts 

In the opening remarks on ready-made cases, the preparing 
of fruits with or without gelatine glazing, to make them attrac- 
tive, has been explained. The fresh fruits, as well as the 
canned fruits, which may be sweetened to taste, allow for 
quite a large variety which always find a ready sale. When 
using the canned fruit, drain off the juice carefully and place 
the drained fruit with a little sugar in the lined cases, baking 
them nicely. While the fruit is baking, boil the juice down 
to a jelly, using about 1 pound sugar to 1 pint juice and boil- 
ing it down until rather thick, so it sets well when cold. The 
jellies may be slightly colored to make them attractive, if 
they are too light. 

Some fruits, such as peaches, apricots or strawberries, 
require no baking. A little jam may be placed in the cases, 
and when baked the peaches or other fruit are neatly placed 
on top of the jam, and the fruit masked with the boiled down 
jelly before it sets. The tarts may then be finished with 
border around the edge, using chopped nutmeats, etc, 

112 • 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



English Cheese Tarts or Cheese Cake 

A large variety of these tarts, known by the name of 
cheese tarts, are in fact custards mixed with almonds, nuts, 
cake crumbs, etc., but contain no cheese in the proper sense. 
The best grades of these tarts contain large quantities of 
ground almonds, while in the cheaper grades almond essence 
takes the place of the almonds. American confectioners use 
ready-made almond paste or kernel paste in these tarts, and 
the tarts are generally known as almond tarts. Tart tins 
with a bent edge, lined with short paste or puff paste and cut 
out with scalloped cutters, make the best looking tarts. 

Alexandra Cheese Tartlets 

Cream together 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint eggs ; 
add the grated rind of 2 lemons, 6 ounces ground almonds and 
1 pound cake flour. Line tins with short paste, put a little 
good fruit jam in bottom, and fill about three-fourths with the 
given filling. Bake in medium heat. The mixture should bake 
nice and round in center. Ice top with vanilla-flavored fon- 
dant, and sprinkle some browned chopped nuts on the soft 
icing. The tops may be finished in many other ways. 

Plain Cheese Cake Filling 

No. 1 — Cream together 2 pounds powdered sugar, 1% 
pounds butter, 12 eggs, the juice and rind of 2 lemons, 2 pounds 
cake crumbs. Use almond flavor or a few crushed nuts or 
almonds. 

No. 2 — 2i/ 2 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter or substitute, 
16 eggs, 3 pounds soft flour, flavor of almonds. If mixture 
is too firm a little milk may be added, but the mixture should 
not be too soft. 

To these mixtures some currants or sultanas may be added, 
more or less, according to prices obtained. The tins may be 
lined with puff paste trimmings or with short paste, and a 
little jam placed in the bottom for the plain mixture ; in those 
with fruit it may be left out. Bake in medium heat, and when 
cold finish top as fancy dictates. 

The addition of melted chocolate or cocoa, with a few 
crushed walnuts, makes another variety of tarts, which may 

113 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



be iced in chocolate or in marble fashion, or chocolate and 
white. 

Congress Tart Fillings 

No. 1 — 1 pound ground almonds, 2% pounds coarse pow- 
dered sugar, 4 ounces rice flour or corn flour, 4 ounces cake 
crumbs, about % pint egg white, flavor of almond extract. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds coarse powdered sugar, 1 pound ground 
almonds, 3 ounces rice flour, abput 14 egg whites, flavor of 
lemon or vanilla. The ingredients may all be mixed together 
and then beaten up in machine or by hand until nice and light. 
If mixture is too firm, a little water may be added. The tart 
tins may be lined with puff paste or short paste and a little jam 
placed in the bottom, then the fillings placed on top with a 
cross of paste on top of each. 

Macaroon Tart with Almond Paste or Kernel Paste 

One pound almond paste or kernel paste, 1% pounds coarse 
powdered sugar, about V2 pint of egg whites. Mix and finish 
like macaroon paste, line tins, and place cross of strips on 
each, the same as Congress tarts. Bake in about 300 degrees 
Fahr. 

Cocoanut Macaroon Tart 

Mix together \y% pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2% pounds 
sugar — half powdered and half granulated — add about 1*4 
pounds or pints egg whites. Set on the fire and stir until 
clear. Heat near boiling but do not let boil. Fill in the lined 
tart forms with or without jam in bottom. Bake in medium 
heat— 280 to 300 degrees. 

Chocolate Macaroon Tart 

Prepare a filling of almond paste or as for cocoanut 
macaroon tarts, add from 2 to 4 ounces melted cocoa or choco- 
late, and additional egg white to make a soft mixture. Bake 
the same as other macaroon tarts. 

Filbert or Hazelnut Tarts 

Take 1 pound coarse powdered sugar, % pound lightly 
roasted and ground filberts, and mix into a smooth paste with 

114 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



sufficient egg white. Heat mixture the same as for cocoanut 
tarts. TherTnll in short paste-lined forms and bake. 

St. Honore Tart, Victoria Tart, Metropolitan Tart 

Cut out bottoms of purl paste with scalloped cutter ; set on 
wet pans and wash with water. With a bag and star tube 
dress a ring or border on top of the puff paste from the 
special French fried cake or cruller paste. Prick puff paste 
in the center and bake to a nice color. Glaze border with fon- 
dant and dip in chopped nuts or almonds, or dip in apricot 
jelly and sprinkle with cocoanut, etc. Fill center with nut 
cream or vanilla pastry cream and decorate with a dot of 
jelly. 

Variations of these tarts, which go by different names, are 
made by filling center of the baked tarts with fresh or pre- 
served fruit or fruit jams, covered with whipped cream or 
various flavored butter creams ; or fill some pastry cream in 
bottom and cover with jellied fruit as given in the section 
on fruit tarts. In French pastry shops small tarts often go 
by French names, which are perplexing. Lemon tarts are 
known as citronettes, nut cream tarts as cremes noisette, 
small almond tarts or chocolate tarts as fanchonettes aux 
amandes or au chocolate, etc. In fact, most all the small fancy 
cakes go by a special name to distinguish the different cakes 
and fillings. There is much scope for variety and originality 
in this line for the practical confectioner. 

German Cheese Tarts 

Filling No. 1 — Rub 8 ounces cottage cheese through a 
sieve, add 4 yolks, 4 beaten egg whites, 6 ounces sugar, a little 
milk, 2 ounces melted butter, the grated rind of a lemon, a 
little grated nutmeg. 

Filling No. 2 — 1 pound cottage cheese, 8 ounces sugar, 
4 ounces butter, 6 eggs, 2 ounces ground almonds, 2 ounces 
chopped orange and citron peel, the grated rind of a lemon, 
flavor of nutmeg or mace. 

Fill mixture in tart tins lined with puff paste. When 
done, dust with powdered sugar. A few sultanas or currants 
may be added to Nos. 1 and 2. 

115 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



American Cheese Filling 

Take 8 ounces grated American cheese, mix with 8 eggs, 
6 ounces sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, a little mace, 
gradually beat in 1 quart fresh milk. Fill in puff paste lined 
tart tins and bake. Dust with sugar and cinnamon when 
baked. 

Poppy Seed Tarts 

No. 1 — Let 1 pint milk come to a boil and pour over 
4 ounces poppy seed to soften. Let cool and rub smooth in 
mortar, add 6 ounces sugar, 3 yolks of eggs and 3 egg whites 
beaten light. 

No. 2 — IV2 pints milk, 6 ounces sugar; let come to a boil 
and slowly add 4 ounces farina, or cream of wheat. Boil until 
it thickens, then add 4 ounces of poppy seed, stir and take off 
the fire. Let cool a little, then add 3 yolks and 3 egg whites 
beaten light. Fill in puff paste lined tart forms and bake. 
Dust with sugar or frost with vanilla icing when baked. 

Ascot Tarts 

Beat up V2 pint egg whites, gradually add 1 pound sugar, 
then mix in 6 ounces macaroon cocoanut and 4 ounces melted 
chocolate. Bake mixture in tins lined with tart paste and 
finish top to suit your fancy. 

Short Paste Tarts, Tumble Tarts 

Line small flat tins with plain short paste cut with scalloped 
cutter. Cream together 14 ounces butter, 1 pound powdered 
sugar, 5 eggs, or % pint yolks, add vanilla flavor, 1/2 pint 
milk, 2% pounds cake flour, % ounce baking powder. Put 
mixture in bag with a star tube, run a ring around inside of 
the tart; let stand for a while to dry, then bake. Fill the 
center of ring with jam or jelly or use a combination of cream, 
butter cream and jelly. The outside of rim may be jellied and 
dipped in cocoanut or other chopped nut meats. 

Alliance Tart 

Roll out a sheet of puff paste about y 8 -inch thick. Over 
half of the rolled paste lay a rolled piece of short paste or 
almond short paste, fold over the bare half of the puff paste 

116 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and roll to ^-inch thickness. Cut in rounds, squares or 
diamond shape. ' Set on lightly greased pans, mark with a 
small round cutter in the center, not cutting quite through 
the paste; egg wash and bake in medium heat. Lift center 
and fill open space with butter cream or whipped cream, in 
pyramid shape, place cover on top of cream so the cream 
shows nicely. Finish top with icing or whipped cream and 
half a cherry. 

Spiced Crumb Tarts 

Line tart forms with plain short paste. Take 2 pounds 
good cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 4 eggs, 
Y2 ounce mixed spice, add water or milk to make a not too 
soft mixture; fill in lined forms and bake. Ice in white, pink 
or chocolate. Chocolate, chopped peel, or currants and raisins 
may be used in this mixture. 

Lemon Cream Tarts — Citronettes 

Bake tart cases and fill with lemon cream when baked. 
Cover with meringue and dust with sugar. Bake to a nice 
color. 

Richelieu Tart — Noisettes 

Line tart forms with short paste or puff paste, fill about 
half with pastry cream containing some nut meats chopped 
fine ; cover this with a soft macaroon paste mixed with coarsely 
chopped filberts and bake in medium heat. Glace with a thin 
fondant icing when baked. 



117 



VII. FRENCH PASTRIES 



French pastries consist of a variety of small puff pastries 
such as Napoleons or cream slices, turnovers, or rissoles, small 
tart plaits and many other shapes made of puff paste or com- 
binations of several pastes. The small pastries are usually 
glaced by dusting with powdered sugar and exposing them to a 
quick heat which melts the sugar to a caramel. Another 
method of glacing is to brush the baked pastry with a plain 
syrup while hot. 

In late years the term French pastry has been applied to 
all small fancy cakes, including small tarts, "petit choux" or 
cream puffs, eclairs, and many other small dipped cakes which 
are known as "petite fours glace," translated into English, 
small iced or dipped cakes. While some of these fancy cakes 
may have originated in France, many of them are made in a 
larger variety and with greater perfection by other European 
confectioners. Many of the cakes have a special name in pro- 
fessional parlance, others are individual creations given a 
pleasing name by the maker. The possibilities in this line of 
cake are so large that an endless variety may be produced by 
the skillful confectioner. In my book, "Pastry for the Res- 
taurant," these are specially featured, and "The Lunchroom" 
and "Paul Richards' Pastry Book" contain many other recipes 
for French pastry. 

Cream Slices — Napoleons 

Roll puff paste into a sheet about % inch thick and as long 
as the pan, cut into 4%- to 5-inch wide strips. Let rest on the 
pans in a cool place, then prick strips with a fork to prevent 
blistering and bake in about 300 degrees Fahr. These strips 
require a cooler oven than other pastry, because they should be 
baked crisp all the way through. When baked spread pastry 
cream on top of one slice or strip and turn on other strip, 
bottom side up on top of the cream to obtain a smooth surface 
for frosting ; ice with a thin vanilla icing. When icing is 

118 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



nearly dry cut with a sharp knife in slices or cut about 2% by 
5 inches. 

Two or three thin strips may be put together with jam and 
pastry cream, frosted and sprinkled with a few chopped nuts 
or browned almonds.' Variation may be made, using chocolate 
icing, or the cut slices may be "Frenched" by covering top with 
whipped cream put on with bag and star tube, decorated with 
half a cherry in the center. 

Cream Rolls — Cornucopias 

Roll out puff paste y 8 mc ^ thick, cut in strips 1 inch wide 
and about 10 inches long, roll the washed strips on cream roll 
tins ; let the strips slightly overlap each other. 

For cornucopias use pointed cone shaped tins and roll the 
paste on the tins in cone shape. Let rest on the tins before 
baking, then eggwash and bake in good heat. Dust with sugar 
when nearly baked, or glace with sugar syrup when baked, and 
when cool enough to handle remove from the tins. 

Cream rolls may be filled with whipped cream, pastry cream, 
marshmallow or meringue. Cornucopias are usually made 
smaller than cream rolls. A little preserve, jam or jelly may be 
filled in the bottom, and top filled with whipped cream, butter 
cream or meringue. 

Turnovers — Rissoles 

The triangle shape is best to use in the bakery for turn- 
overs, as it prevents the making of scraps. But round shapes 
are also used, cut out with a 3- to 3V2-inch-wide plain or 
scalloped cutter. For triangles roll puff paste out y 8 mc h thick 
cut in 4-inch or 5-inch squares, wash sides with water, fill 
chopped and sweetened apples or other fruit in the center; 
fold over the other side, triangle shape, press down sides to 
inclose the fruit. For the round cuts roll each round slightly 
thin in center to form a long oval, then wash and fill same as 
the triangles. Let stand on pans before baking, then egg wash 
and bake in good heat, dust and glace like cream rolls. These 
are often baked without filling, and when baked the cream puff 
filler is used, some cream or jelly being forced in with the 
pump. 

Rissoles are a smaller form of the turnover. Rounds or 

119 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



squares of puff paste are filled and folded over. The rissole is 
then laid in granulated sugar, and set on pan, sugar side down. 
When nearly baked and glaced on the under side, the top is 
dusted with powered sugar and put back in the oven on double 
pan to glace on top. When baked the rissoles are decorated 
with strips of apple or currant jelly and royal icing. The 
rissoles are often made with fresh fruit in season, or with 
preserved fruits and jams, simply filled, glaced when baked, 
and decorated. 

Pretzels or Figures of Eight 

Cut strips of rolled out paste from 9 to 10 inches long — % 
to % inch wide, wash and sprinkle with granulated sugar. 
Twist strips and form into pretzel on pan and bake in medium 
oven until nice and crisp. For eights omit the sugar. Form 
in figure on the pan and bake without washing. When done 
brush over with hot fruit jelly, sprinkle one side with finely 
chopped pistachio nuts and crushed loaf sugar, the other side 
with chopped almonds and sugar. 

Crescents and Horseshoes 

No. 1 — Cut strips of rolled-out paste 4 inches long and 
l'inch wide. Lay these strips over tins bent half round and 
set on pans. These strips may be washed and sprinkled with 
chopped almonds, or covered with a macaroon paste and laid 
in chopped almonds before placing them on the tins. When 
baked and taken from the tins put five large dots of meringue 
on the under side, dust with sugar, and brown lightly in the 
oven. 

No. 2 — Cut wide strips, 2^x6 inches ; place a strip of jam 
or almond paste filling along the center and fold over the 
paste. Then make eight or ten cuts half through the paste 
on one side, and set on pans in crescent shape. Wash and 
glace after baking. Such strips may be twisted after being 
filled, and set on pans in crescent or horseshoe shape. 

Palm Leaves, Fans, Parisiennes 

No. 1 — Roll fresh paste or trimmings into a square of 
about 18 inches, dust with sugar, roll, pin over, fold in two 
sides to center, dust again with sugar and fold again, and 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



continue folding and dusting until the piece is only about 4 
inches wide. Dust again with sugar and bring one layer over 
the other. This will make a strip about 2 inches wide, l 1 /^ 
inches thick. Cut in slices % inch wide, lay these on very 
clean, lightly-greased tins, make cuts inside up and down, 2V2 
inches apart. Bake in hot oven. When partly baked dust with 
sugar, turn over on the pan with palette knife, dust again, 
and finish baking. Two of each shape may be sandwiched with 
jam and decorated. 

No. 2 — Roll out puff paste about % inch thick, cut from it 
3-inch strips, cut the strips in %-inch bars, lay these in gran- 
ulated sugar on the cut side, then lay with the sugar side on 
clean pans and bake in quick heat. They will spread about 
1% inches when baked. Set them together with jam, on the 
unglaced side. Ice with a strip of fondant or in fan or sun 
shape. 

Bourbon Condes 

Cover a thin sheet of paste with preserve, plum jam, apri- 
cot or green gage jam. Cover this with a soft macaroon paste, 
using bag and tube. Cut in squares or other shapes, and bake 
in a medium heat. Decorate each piece with a ring of royal 
icing, with a dot of jam in center. 

Monte Carlos 

Roll out and cut rounds of paste, set on wet pans, and wash 
edges. Fill center with macaroon paste, not covering edge; 
lay another round on top and press down the edges, mark with 
a sharp knife around and prick in the center. Wash with egg 
and bake, then glace with sugar or syrup. 

Alumnettes — Royal Batons 

Roll paste out % mcn thick. Spread with royal icing. 
Sprinkle with chopped almonds. Cut in strips 4 inches long 
and 1% inches wide. Let stand on the pans for 15 minutes 
to dry the icing, then bake in a cool oven. 

Richelieus 

Roll out paste and cut out circles, about 3 inches in diam- 
eter and Vs mcn thick. Cut a slit in the center, and through 

121 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



this slit pass a piece of crosscut paste 4 inches long and % 
inch wide, so that the cut side rests on the pan. Wash the 
circle with egg and sprinkle with granulated sugar and 
almonds. Bake, and when done coat the end pieces with syrup 
or jam and sprinkle with sugar or ice with fondant. 

Mille Feuille 

Put jam between two thin layers of paste, cut in squares 
or slices and bake. When nearly done glace and finish baking. 
Two of these may be put together, masked with hot jelly, and 
sprinkled with shredded browned almonds. Another way is 
to cut strips or squares of rolled-out paste which is washed 
with egg and covered with streusel, such as is used on the 
coffee cake. Bake in good heat. Or squares are cut from 
paste washed and set on pans and a cross of firm macaroon 
paste is put on. These are baked in medium heat. 

Croix de Malta — Maltese Cross 

Cut puff paste rolled % inch thick in 3Vk-inch squares. 
Cut from each corner to V2 inch of the center. Mark center 
with small round cutter. Egg wash and bake, glace with 
sugar or syrup. Push down in center, fill with jelly. Outline 
cross with white icing. 

Fleurons and Rosettes 

Fleurons are cut in crescent shape or in small star shapes 
and washed with egg. The star shapes -may be filled by mark- 
ing the center and glacing the baked shapes. These small 
sweet pastries may be served with ice creams or fancy jellies 
and puddings as a garniture. Without sugar they are used 
for garniture for meat dishes. 

For rosettes, cut out shapes with five- or six-pointed star 
cutter, wash center, and fold points to meet in the center. 
Wash, glace and bake. These may be filled with various 
creams or jams, like the others, and slightly decorated if 
desired. 

Buckinghams and Florentines 

Cut thin bottoms of scrap paste 2% to 3 inches in diameter. 
Set on wet pans, wash with water, cut out rings of %-inch 

122 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paste with scalloped cutter and set on the bottoms, laying 
rings in crushed sugar and almonds. Bake, and when done 
fill center with whipped cream and place fresh strawberries 
or raspberries on top. These may first be dipped in hot jelly 
to glace them. Preserved fruits and jams may be used. 

For Florentines fill the baked forms with plum or other 
fruit jam; cover with a pyramid of meringue, sprinkle with 
shredded almonds, and brown nicely in the oven. 

Talmouses — Parmesans 

Make a filling similar to cream puff paste as follows : Take 
1 pint milk, 2 ounces butter; let come to a boil. Add 6 ounces 
flour, and mix into a smooth paste. Take off the fire, and add 
by degrees 6 ounces grated Parmesan cheese or hard Ameri- 
can cheese, mix and add 2^ ounces sugar, a pinch of salt, 
some nutmeg and the grated rind of half a lemon, 4 yolks, and 
about one-half cupful of cream, to make a paste not too soft. 
Roll out puff paste % inch thick and cut rounds 31/2 inches 
in diameter, wash with water. Fill a spoonful of the cheese 
paste in the center. Fold up the sides over the paste to form 
a three-cornered-hat shape. Egg wash, bake and glace with 
sugar. Another cheese filling is made as follows: Mix V2 
pound dry cheese curd with 3 ounces sugar, 3 yolks, V2 ounce 
cornstarch, a little grated lemon rind, and nutmeg. Roll out 
puff paste and cut in 3%-inch squares. Fill a spoonful of 
cheese in center. Fold the four corners of the paste to the 
center, overlapping slightly. Egg wash, bake, and glace as 
usual. 

Other Small Puff or French Pastries 

The preceding recipes show how quite a large variety of 
puff pastries may be made. The size should correspond with 
the price obtained, and it is always best to make them of a size 
so they may be sold with other small fancy cakes in an assort- 
ment. Decorations and fillings may be varied by using the 
many icings and fillings. 

Small Puff Pastries and Tarts 

A variety of tartlets are made in different ways, by alter- 
ing their form and design, masking them with meringue, or 

123 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



decorating them with various icings, or using different col- 
ored jellies and French fruit glaces. These tartlets are known 
by the French names of "Darioles," "Mirlitons" and "Fancho- 
nettes." These tartlets are made by lining small forms with 
puff paste, filling and baking them with custards of different 
flavors. The top is finished in many ways. 

"Darioles" 

Line tins and fill with a custard made of 1 pint milk or 
cream, 5 ounces sugar, 6 yolks, 1 ounce cornstarch, then add 
4 ounces crushed macaroons. When baked they are usually 
served plain, with a star of whipped cream or butter cream in 
center. 

Darioles au Cafe are filled with coffee-flavored custard. 
Darioles au Vanilla are filled with vanilla-flavored custard. 

"Mirlitons" 

Mirlitons are filled with different nut creams or partly filled 
with preserves, and covered with the custard. 

Fanchonettes 

Fanchonettes are made in many ways, filled with custards, 
pastry creams mixed with nuts; chocolate or preserved fruit 
is filled in the bottom. The decoration is made more or less 
elaborate by piping fancy designs of meringue, these designs 
decorated again with bright jellies or different colored fon- 
dant, or sprinkled with chopped nuts. These tartlets are 
named, according to fillings used, Fanchonettes a la Vanilla, 
Fanchonettes au Chocolate, Fanchonettes aux Amandes 
(almonds), and, if filled with fruits, fresh or preserved or in 
combinations, Fanchonettes aux Fruits, or aux Apricots, aux 
Peches, etc. 

A small French tartlet is made like the usual patty shell 
and baked in the same way. These are finished after baking, 
dipped in strong syrup boiled to the crack degree and sprinkled 
with various chopped nuts, or dipped or masked with hot fruit 
jelly and covered with nuts, etc. All the different fruits and 
preserves are used singly or in combinations, and the tarts are 
named accordingly. These go by the names of Petite Vol au 
Vents, aux Fruits or a la creme, etc. 

124 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Many other styles of tarts are made by Continental con- 
fectioners. Tart forms are lined with short paste, or baked 
cases of puff paste are made and filled as required. Fruits in 
season are used, also the preserved fruits. A large variety of 
apple fillings, fresh or preserved, have proved good sellers. 
All these pastries, if made carefully and made to look pretty, 
are now classed under French pastries, but are known under 
many other names in different localities. 

MOCHA CAKES— BUTTER CREAM CAKES 

In the "French Pastry Shops" quite a large variety of cakes 
are made and given special names to go by, but are also termed 
French Pastry. The best grades of these cakes are made with 
a foundation of good Genoise or pound cake baked in thick 
sheets or from a good light sand torte or Vienna butter sponge, 
and others simply from a common plain sponge cake or from 
some plain jelly roll mixture. Two thin sheets are cut and 
put together, or the thick sheets are cut in strips, sliced and 
filled with butter cream or jam. Some of the cake mixtures 
are also baked in cups, small heart shapes, or in rings to save 
the cutting or trimming. After being filled with various 
flavored and colored creams or other fillings, the strips are 
finished on the top by running a strip of cream on each side 
and a good strip of jam is run along the center. The finished 
strips are then cut in bars or slices, using a knife dipped in 
hot water before each cut. When making individual cakes 
the slices are filled and cut in triangles, squares or diamonds 
which make the least trimmings, the top and sides are masked 
with some of the filling and finished in various ways. 

The other crumby mixtures which cannot be dipped easily 
are filled, cut in pieces and set on wire trays a little apart, 
and the icing or the warm fondant is poured over the pieces, 
covering them entirely. Before the icing sets, each piece is 
decorated with a dot of icing scrolls, French fruit, etc. The 
butter cream fillings are the most popular and easily made, 
the sides of each piece are brushed with some of the filling 
and covered with cocoanut, browned almonds or roasted fil- 
berts. The center is decorated in various ways; if butter 
cream is used this cream is made slightly firmer to keep its 
shape well. 

125 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



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126 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Quite a large variety of these cakes can be made by using 
the different fillings and icings in pleasing combinations, keep- 
ing in mind that the dry sponge cakes require a moister filling 
than the richer pound and Genoise cake. By using fruit 
flavored icings and fruit fillings in the warm season, the richer 
cream fillings during the cooler months, a constant variety 
may be produced. These small individual cakes sell by the 
piece at from 10 to 15 cents each. Special fancy cakes sell 
for higher prices. 

One method of making small dipped cake is to bake very 
thin sheets of cake. Put these together in from three to six 
layers, with various fillings, then cut in pieces and dip or cover 
with various colored and flavored icings and decorate as fancy 
directs. 

Small Fancy Cakes Made from Short Paste 

Use almond short paste or other short paste, or a combina- 
tion made of puff paste and short paste (see Alliance Tartlet) . 
Roll out and cut small figures in pairs, such as crescents, 
squares, rounds, stars, heart shapes, etc. Set on pans and 
bake, then sandwich together with firm fillings. These may 
be dipped and finished in many ways. 

Small Fancies from Sponge Cake Mixture 

Use a good ladyfinger mixture or prepare a special mixture 
from 24 to 28 eggs, separated, 1 pound powdered sugar, 1*4 
pounds flour. Stir yolks light with three-fourths of sugar, 
beat up whites and beat in one-fourth of the sugar, then add 
whites to yolks and draw in the flour. Flavor with lemon or 
vanilla. Lay this mixture out with bag and plain tube in 
fancy shapes on paper, bake in medium heat — about 320 de- 
grees. Sandwich together in pairs, dip and decorate. 

Another variety of cakes may be made by baking fancy 
shapes from the regular plain macaroon paste and sand- 
wiching these together, or using a similar shape baked of 
short paste or sponge cake, or of meringue paste; sandwich, 
or fill and dip, and decorate. These fancy cakes when finished 
may be placed in fancy crimped paper cases when put on sale. 



127 



VIII. COOKIES OR HARD CAKES 
HOW TO WORK THEM 



The production of small cakes is a very important branch 
of cake making and a certain skill is required to get them 
perfect. A very large proportion of cookies is now made in 
the cracker factories, where special machines are used for 
the different kinds. Some mixtures are made firmer than the 
hand-made cookies, run out on a panning machine . and cut 
out with various cutters. A bar attachment is used on the 
same machine for bar goods. A soft cake depositing machine 
is used for other goods and a similar machine used by cake 
bakers to facilitate quick work. 

For the hand-made cookies a general rule is not to toughen 
the mixture by overworking when adding the flour. Soft 
short winter wheat flour is best adapted for such goods. Some 
mixtures are improved by giving time to rest after mixing. 
Mixtures are best worked up in a cool place. Salt must be 
added when using saltless fats. 

Some mixtures which contain fruit are best made up with- 
out rolling out and cutting out. The mixtures are better 
worked by rolling out in strips and cutting with knife or 
scraper into pieces, usually from 12 to 16 to a pound. The 
pieces are then rounded up and set on greased pans, taking 
care to get them far enough apart. A small board with a 
strip for a handle is used to flatten the pieces evenly. Some 
cookies are washed with an egg-wash before baking, others 
are turned on the pan, after being flattened, into granulated 
sugar or on chopped nutmeats before baking. Some bakers 
sprinkle sugar on the rolled out sheet of paste before cutting 
out the cakes. Some cookies are baked in steam. This makes 
them spread and gives a nice crack, and where no steam is 
available the cookies may be dampened with a wet cloth or 
washed to make them spread better. Spices and flavorings 
should be employed with discretion. Egg coloring is often 
used in low-priced goods. 

128 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



SCOTCH SHORTBREAD 

Shortbreads are very popular. Only best butter should be 
used for the best grades, but a good shortcake may be made 
by using half butter and half high-grade butterine. It is said 
that the real shortbread should be made without any moisten- 
ing, but it is preferable to add egg or a little milk without 
depreciating the quality. Use a soft rich winter wheat flour 
and a not too finely ground powdered sugar. 

No. 1 — 4 pounds flour, 2 to 2*4 pounds butter, 1 pound 
sugar, 2 eggs or yolks of eggs. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds flour, 1% pounds butter, % pound sugar, 
2 eggs, y 5 ounce baking soda. 

No. 3 — 2 pounds flour, 1 pound butter, 1/2 pound sugar, 3 
eggs. 

Method of mixing: Rub sugar with eggs, then rub with 
the butter, not creaming, simply mixing in, then draw in 
nearly all of the flour — except a handful. Mix into a medium 
soft paste without warming the mixture, then add the re- 
maining flour. After the dough has rested for a while in a 
cool place it is ready for scaling in pieces and moulding in 
blocks, or for rolling out in various shapes, pinching up the 
edges to form a fancy border. The cakes are usually docked 
with a fork or special docker. Plain round pieces or block 
shortbreads may be decorated with a piece of citron or half 
a candied cherry or sprinkled with caraway comfits. Large 
shortbreads are baked in hoops to protect the sides. These 
pieces are often decorated with fondant and French fruit 
glaces and royal icing, crystallized .fruit, or otherwise as fancy 
directs. 

Small Fancy Shortbreads 

Roll the shortbread dough about *4 mcn thick, cut in 
rounds measuring from 2 to 3 inches with scalloped cutter, 
set on pans. Then make an almond short paste, mixing 4 
ounces ground almonds, 1*4 pounds butter, 10 ounces pow- 
dered sugar, li/4 pounds flour and 2 yolks to a smooth paste. 
Dress with large grooved star tube and bag in various designs 
or in border shape on the cut-out pieces and bake. 

For plainer cakes mix % pound butter, 1 pound sugar, */£ 
pint yolks, % pint milk, 2 pounds flour and 14 ounce baking 

129 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



powder. Dress on the cut-out cakes with bag and star tube. 
Bake and decorate the cakes after baking, using various col- 
ored and flavored icings. Chocolate may be worked into the 
pastes for another variety. 

COOKIES 

Fig Newtons or Fig Bars 

Mix together 3 pounds bread flour, iy 2 pounds sugar, 
2 ounces baking powder, a pinch of salt. Rub in 12 ounces 
lard and mix with li/ 2 pints milk into a smooth rolling paste; 
flavor as desired. Roll out into y 8 -inch-thick sheet, cut in 
3-inch-wide strips. Spread some ready-made fig jam with 
bag and flat tube in the center, fold the sides over the jam, 
and set strips on pan. Mark in bars, and cut after baking, or 
cut in pieces before baking. 

Fruit or Brown Cookies 

Eight pounds brown sugar, or, if granulated sugar is used, 
add 1 pint molasses, 4 pounds compound, 3% pints eggs, 
8 pounds seedless raisins, 2 ounces spices, 3% ounces ammonia 
dissolved in 1 quart milk, 12 pounds cake flour. Mix makes 
42 dozen. 

Eggless Crumb Cookie 

Soak 3 pounds cake crumbs in 1 quart water, add 3 ounces 
soda; rub together 2% pounds sugar, 11/2 pounds shortening, 
1% ounces spices, IV2 pints molasses; mix with crumbs and 
water, then add 5% pounds cake flour. Cut out with 2!/2-mch 
cutter, lay in granulated sugar, set on pans, make a dent in 
center, fill in a drop of jelly and bake. Mixture makes 18 to 
19 dozen cookies. 

Cocoanut Crescents 

One quart egg whites, 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, V2 
pound flour, 5 pounds granulated sugar. Mix ingredients in 
kettle set in hot water to warm mixture, let cool, and dress 
out with bag and plain tube on paper or flour-dusted greased 
pans, in crescent shape. Mix should make 12 dozen cakes. 

130 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Brown Cookie Mixture 

Two pounds granulated sugar, 1 pound compound, 4 or 5 
eggs, 1 ounce soda, */2 pint or more molasses, 1 pound cur- 
rants, V2 pint water, flavor sufficient to make a smooth 
rolling mixture. Add spices, cut out with 2%-inch cutter. 
Makes 15 dozen cookies. 

Fine Ginger Nuts 

Five pounds sugar, 3 pounds lard, 3 ounces salt, 2% ounces 
soda. Mix together, add 1 ounce ginger, 2 pints molasses, IV2 
pints water, 9 pounds soft cake flour. 

Universal Cookie Mixture 

Seven pounds sugar, 3!/2 pounds shortening, 1 pint eggs, 
2 quarts milk, 13 pounds cake flour sifted with 12 ounces 
baking powder. Mix may be divided and part of it mixed 
with chopped nut meats, cocoanut, fruit, peel, caraway seed, 
left plain, or washed and sprinkled with coarse sugar, etc. 
Bake in 375 degrees Fahr. 

Peanut Slices, Almond Bread 

One pound cake crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 
about 8 eggs, V2 pound shelled blanched peanuts or almonds, 
^4 ounce cinnamon, y 8 ounce ammonia. Make into a firm 
dough, cut over several times with a sharp knife to cut the 
nuts in smaller pieces. Form in long strips set on greased 
pans, flatten and wash with egg. Bake in medium heat. Cut 
in slices when baked. 

Chocolate Almond Bread 

Three-quarters pound sugar, % pound flour, IV2 pound 
cake crumbs, V2 pound raw almonds, 6 eggs, % ounce am- 
monia, 2 ounces melted chocolate or cocoa, V2 ounce cinna- 
mon and cloves. Mix and work like peanut slices, make in 
strips 1/2 inch thick, bake and ice with vanilla, and cut in 
slices while warm. 

Sugar Cookies 

No. 1 — 4!/2 pounds sugar, 2% pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 
1 quart milk, 4 ounces cream tartar (phosphate), 2 ounces 

131 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



soda, flavor of mace and vanilla, 9 pounds cake flour. Mix- 
ture makes 25 dozen. Cut out with 3-inch plain cutter. Bake 
in 375 degrees. 

No. 2—3 pounds sugar, l!/ 2 pounds compound, 3 eggs, 
lemon flavor, 1*4 quarts buttermilk, 2 ounces ammonia, 6V2 
pounds soft cake flour. Mix and cream sugar, shortening and 
eggs, dissolve the ammonia in the milk, then add flour. Bake 
in good heat. Mix makes 12 to 14 dozen. 

Lemon Cookies — Fruit Cookies 

4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter and lard, 1 pint eggs, 1 
pint milk, 6 pounds flour, 4% ounces baking powder, lemon 
flavor. For fruit cookies add V2 pound finely chopped citron, 
2 to 3 pounds sultanas. Mix like sugar cookies, cut out, wash 
with egg. Roll fruit cookies in strips, round up, set on pans, 
flatten and wash with egg, bake in 350 to 375 degrees. Mix 
makes 20 dozen. 

Oatmeal Cookies 

No. 1 — 3 pounds brown sugar, IV2 pounds lard, % ounce 
soda, % ounce cinnamon, 1/2 pint yolks, 1/2 pint water, 3 
pounds flour, 2 pounds rolled oats, 1% pounds seedless raisins. 
Mix and work like fruit cookies, wash with eggs, turn on pan 
in granulated sugar. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 10 
dozen. 

No. 2 — 1*4 pounds sugar, % pound lard, 1 ounce soda, mix 
in bowl, add % pint molasses, V2 pint milk, then add 1% 
pounds flour, y 2 ounce cream of tartar, i/ 2 ounce ammonia, 
and l!/2 pounds bulk oatmeal. Cut with 2!/2-inch cutter, wash 
with egg-wash. Mix makes from 8 to 9 dozen. 

Molasses Cookies 

No. 1 — 6 pounds granulated sugar, 3 pounds lard, 2 quarts 
molasses, 2 quarts water, 4 ounces soda, 1 ounce cinnamon, 
i/2 ounce ginger, 1/2 ounce cloves, 16 pounds flour. Makes 30 
dozen. Rub sugar, lard and spices together, add molasses, 
water and soda, then flour. Cut with 3-inch scalloped cutter. 
Bake on lightly greased pans, in 350 degrees Fahr., with a 
little steam. If no steam, wash with water. 

No. 2 — 2 quarts molasses, V2 pound melted lard, 7 pounds 

132 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



flour, 1 pint milk, 2 ounces soda, spices. Wash with egg and 
milk and bake in slow oven. 

Bolivars 

2 quarts molasses, 1 quart milk, 1 pound lard, 4 ounces 
soda, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed spice, 9 pounds flour. 

Scotch Cookies 

No. 1 — 4% pounds granulated sugar, 2% pounds com- 
pound, 16 eggs, 1 quart molasses, 3% ounces soda dissolved 
in a little water, 8V2 pounds flour, cinnamon, allspice, lemon. 
Cut out with plain 3-inch cutter, egg wash, bake in 350 de- 
grees. 

No. 2 — 5 pounds sugar, 2% pounds lard, 5 eggs, V2 pint 
molasses, 1 quart milk, 2% ounces soda, 8V2 pounds flour, 
spices to suit taste. 

Crumb Cookies 

No. 1 — 2 pounds C sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 1 quart 
molasses, 5 eggs, l 1 /^ pints water, 3% ounces soda sifted in 
6 pounds flour, 3 pounds cake crumbs, spices as required. 

No. 2 — Put 3 pounds crumbs, 1 quart water, % quart mo- 
lasses, 3 ounces soda in bowl, mix, add cinnamon and lemon, 
add 21/2 pounds sugar, 1% pounds lard, mix, and add 5% 
pounds flour. Cut with 2!/^-inch plain cutter, dip in sugar. 
A little jelly may be put in a dent made in the center. Mix 
makes 18 to 19 dozen. 

Soft Ginger Cookies 

Mix 2% pounds sugar, 1% pounds lard, 4 ounces soda, and 
cinnamon and ginger in a bowl, add 2 quarts molasses, 1 quart 
milk. Then add 10% pounds flour. Cut out with 3-inch scal- 
loped cutter, wash with milk. Mix makes 20 dozen. 

Honey Cookies 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 3 quarts honey, 10 eggs, 3 ounces 
soda, V2 pint water, 13 pounds flour. Rub sugar and eggs, add 
honey and soda, dissolved in water. Work, mix well on the 
bench for 10 minutes. Bake sample and if cookie flattens too 
much the dough requires more working. Grease pans and wet 

X33 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



lightly with brush to prevent cookies from sliding while being 
washed with the syrup. Bake in 350 degrees. Mix makes 
32 dozen. Cut with plain cutter. Syrup for wash: Dissolve 
1 pound icing sugar in scant x /2 pint of water. 

Imitation Honey Cookie 

No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 1 quart 
artificial or pure honey, 1 quart light-colored molasses, 1 scant 
quart milk, 3 ounces soda, 10 pounds flour, flavor mace and 
lemon. This mixture is also made with fruit, adding IV2 ounces 
spices, 1 pound mixed peel (citron and orange) and 1 pound 
currants or seeded raisins, run through meat grinder. Mix 
and treat like No. 1. Wash with syrup, and bake in 350 
degrees. 

Hermits 

4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds shortening, iy 2 pints eggs, 1 pint 
molasses, 1 pint milk, 1% ounces soda, 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce 
mixed spice, 5 to 6 pounds currants and seedless raisins, V2 
ounce ginger, 7 pounds flour. Roll out and cut % inch thick 
with 2-inch cutter, wash with milk. Cocoanut may be added 
with less fruit, or mincemeat may be used in a softer mixture 
which can be dropped out like a drop cake, on greased and 
flour-dusted pans. 

Dark Fruit Cookies 

Rub together 2% pounds sugar, 1 pound 2 ounces com- 
pound, 6 eggs; add V2 pint molasses, V2 pint water, 1 ounce 
soda dissolved in water, then 3 pounds 14 ounces soft flour. 
When partly mixed put in % pound currants or chopped rais- 
ins, season with cinnamon and cloves, add salt. Roll out and 
cut with 3-inch plain cutter. Wash with milk and egg. Mix 
makes about 14 dozen. Cookie improves if a day old. 

Rough and Readys, or Log Cabin Cookies 

3 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds shortening, 10 whole eggs, 5 
yolks, 1 quart milk, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces cream of tartar 
(or 4 ounces baking powder), 6 pounds cake flour. Flavor 
with mace and lemon. Mix as usual, set on pans, dip in sugar, 
then mark crosswise with a fork or cardboard. Bake in 360 to 
375 degrees. 

134 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Graham Cookies 

3 pounds sugar, li/ 2 pounds shortening, 1 pint eggs, V/> 
pints milk, 2 pounds Graham flour, 2 ounces cake flour, 2% 
ounces baking powder. Mix as usual. Drop on greased pans 
like drop cakes. May be washed and sprinkled with coarse 
sugar. 

Bran Cookies 

Cream 2% pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 1/2 pint eggs, 

1 pint milk, % ounce ammonia together; add IV2 pounds 
bran, 1% pounds cake flour to make a smooth dough. Roll 
out and cut thin, same as lemon snaps. Bake in 300 degrees. 
Flavor with vanilla or with spices. 

Spanish Cookies 

3% pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 3 pounds crumbs, 3 pounds 
flour, 5 eggs, IV2 pints milk, V2 ounce ammonia, 1/2 ounce 
soda, 1 pound chopped fruit, raisins or currants, V2 ounce 
mixed spices. Mix as usual. Cut in 1-ounce pieces, roll in 
ovals, and flatten on pan. Dip on pan in sugar, bake in 
medium heat. 

Peanut Cookies 

2 pounds sugar, 1*4 pounds shortening, 1 pint yolks, % 
pint milk, flavor of mace, 4 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking 
powder. Mix as usual, cut out in shapes desired, wash and 
sprinkle with chopped peanuts. Bake in medium oven. 

Cocoanut Cookies 

Cream together 2 pounds sugar, 1% pounds cocoa butter, 

2 pints eggs; add % pint honey, IV2 pints milk, IV2 pounds 
macaroon cocoanut, about 4% to 5 pounds flour, 3 ounces bak- 
ing powder, vanilla. Mix and cut out any size desired. Egg-wash 
and sprinkle some coarse desiccated cocoanut on top. Medium 
oven. 

Chocolate Cookies 

2 pounds sugar, V2 pound butter, 8 eggs, 1 ounce ammonia, 
V2 ounce cinnamon, % pound cocoa or melted chocolate, 2 
pounds cake flour. Mix smooth with very little milk. Bake 
in various shapes. Ice when done. 

135 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Almond Cookies 

Rub IV2 pounds almond paste smooth with 18 eggs and 
add 4y* pounds dark brown sugar. Add 1 ounce soda, mix 
well, then work in 4% pounds flour. Egg-wash, sprinkle a 
few chopped almonds in center. Cut with 2V£-inch plain cut- 
ter. Mix makes 35 dozen. 

Tea Cookies 

3 pounds brown sugar, iy 2 pounds shortening, a little salt, 
creamed together; add y 2 ounce cinnamon, 14 ounce ginger, 
% ounce nutmeg and 10 eggs. Dissolve y 2 ounce soda and 
V2 ounce ammonia in y 2 pint water, and mix with 4% pounds 
soft flour. Roll out thin, cut with plain cookie cutter, set on 
table, dampen with wet cloth, and sift icing sugar over cakes, 
then pan and bake in moderate oven. Makes about 20 dozen. 

Lemon Fruit Bar 

3 pounds sugar, 2 pounds butter, 1 pint eggs, scant pint 
water, 2y 2 ounces ammonia. 7% pounds flour, lemon flavor, 
iy 2 pounds sultanas or currants. Cool oven. 

Almond or Nut Bars, or Cocoanut Bars 

1 pound sugar, y 2 pound shortening, 3 eggs, y 2 pint milk, 
!/2 pounds short cocoanut, iy 2 pounds cake flour, 1/4 ounce 
baking powder. Or use raw ground almonds or walnuts in 
place of cocoanut. Mix all ingredients to a medium paste, roll 
in strips, set on pans, flatten a little, egg wash and bake. Or 
the strips may be cut on the table and set on the pans, washed 
and baked. 

Dark Fruit Bars 

1 pound sugar, y 2 pound lard, 3 eggs, *4 pint molasses, % 
pound crumbs, 1 pound flour, y 2 ounce baking powder, 1 pound 
fruit. Mix like nut bars. 

Cocoanut Bars 

No. 1 — 4 pounds sugar, 2 pounds lard, 1 pint eggs, 1 pint 
milk, 1 ounce ammonia, 2 pounds cocoanut, 6% pounds cake 
flour. Mix and form in strips, flatten on pans, egg wash, 
sprinkle with granulated sugar. Bake and cut while warm. 

136 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Eggless Cocoanut Bars 

No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, i/ 2 pint mo- 
lasses, 1 quart milk, 2 pounds short cocoanut, 1 ounce soda, 
vanilla, 3 pounds flour. Mix into a soft mass, dress with bag 
and large flat star tube in fingers on greased pans. Bake in 
medium oven. 

Oriental Fruit Bar 

Cream together i/2 pound lard, 1% pounds sugar, 5 eggs, 
IV2 pints molasses, % ounce eloves, % ounce cinnamon; add 
1 pint milk, IV2 ounces soda dissolved in the milk, 4% pounds 
flour. Mix with 2 pounds raisins, 1 pound currants, 1 pound 
citron, 1 pound figs finely chopped, V2 pound nuts. Scale IV2 
pound pieces, roll in strips, set on pans, three strips on each 
pan, flatten, egg wash and bake in 320 degrees. Let cool. 
Bars improve if a day old. They may be iced and cut in slices. 

Drop Cakes — Hermits 

5 pounds sugar, 2i/ 2 pounds shortening, 15 eggs, 21/2 quarts 
milk, 4 ounces soda, 8 pounds flour, 3 pounds currants, 3 
pounds short cocoanut, 2 ounces cinnamon. Mix as usual. Drop 
on greased and dusted pans, 20 on a pan. Mix makes 20 pans. 
Medium oven. 

Ginger Drop Cakes 

1 pound sugar, % pound lard, 5 eggs, i/2 pint molasses, V2 
ounce soda dissolved in % pint milk, 1% pounds flour, 1/2 ounce 
baking powder, 1 ounce ginger and cinnamon. Mix as usual, 
drop out on greased and dusted pans. 

Molasses and Spice Drop Cakes 

Mix 12 ounces lard, V2 pound sugar, 5 eggs, V2 ounce gin- 
ger, 1 quart molasses, 1% pints water, 3% pounds soft flour 
and 2 ounces baking powder together. Drop out on dusted, 
greased pans. 

For spiced drop cookies add spices. Drop a raisin on top 
of each cookie before baking. Mix makes eight dozen. 

Soft Ginger Drops 

4V 2 pounds brown sugar, 1% pounds lard, % ounce salt, 
2V2 ounces soda, 1 ounce mixed ginger and cinnamon, flavor 

137 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



of lemon, 3 pints molasses, 5 pints sweet or sour milk, 2 
pounds bread flour, 4 pounds cake flour. Mix like molasses 
cake, drop on dusted pans, with seedless raisins on top. Makes 
15 dozen. 

Yellow Drop Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 12 eggs, 1% pints milk, 1 
ounce ammonia, 4 pounds soft flour, 2 ounces baking powder. 
Mix as usual. Drop on greased and dusted pans. 

Coco-Butters — Mansfield's Cocoanut Drop Cookies 

Put in bowl 5 quarts water, i/ 2 pound soda, salt to 
season, 4 pounds lard ; break this all up so the lard is in small 
pieces, add 6 pounds macaroon cocoanut, stir well together, 
26 pounds cake flour, and 12 pounds granulated sugar on top 
of flour, then mix well. Use this for machine. If dropping 
out by hand use 24 pounds flour. Drop about size of an egg. 
Mix makes 65 dozen. 

Cocoanut Drop Cookies, White 

1 pound sugar, l/ 2 pound butter, 5 eggs, 1 pint milk, 2V2 
pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder, 1 pound cocoanut. Mix 
and drop out on lightly greased pans. 

SNAPS, JUMBLES AND WAFERS 
Lemon Snaps 

No. 1 — 2V2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter and lard, 7 to 8 
eggs, 2% pounds soft flour, 14 ounce ammonia, lemon flavor, 
milk as required. Roll out thin, cut with small snap cutter, 
set on greased pans, egg wash, and bake in 350 degrees. 

Lemon Snaps, to Drop Out with Bag and Tube 

No. 2 — 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, 10 to 11 eggs, 
grated rind and juice of 4 lemons, 21/2 pounds flour sifted with 
1 ounce baking powder. 

Ginger Snaps to Drop Out 

No. 1 — 1*4 pounds sugar, % pound lard, 5 eggs, 1 pint 
molasses, 1 pint water, 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce mixed spice — 
half ginger, flour sufficient to make a soft mixture. 

138 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Ginger Snaps with Crumbs, Eggless 

No. 2 — 1% pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 quart molasses, 
1 pound crumbs soaked in 1 pint water, and 2 ounces soda, 
spices, flour to mix. 

No. 3 — 3 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 quart molasses, 1 
pint water, 2 ounces soda, 1 ounce ginger, 1 ounce mixed 
spice, 14 ounce salt, 6% pounds soft wheat flour. Mix as 
usual. Cut with 2-inch snap cutter, wet on pans, or bake in 
a little steam. 

Vanilla Jumbles 

2 pounds sugar, 1% pounds shortening, 10 eggs, 1 pint 
milk, 1/2 ounce soda, 1 ounce cream of tartar, 4% pounds cake 
flour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cakes, lay out in rings with bag 
and large star tube, on lightly greased pans. Let stand to dry 
% hour; this brings out the star in better shape. Bake in 
375 degrees Fahr. 

Chocolate Jumbles 

Add 2 ounces melted chocolate to jumble mixture given, 
sprinkle with granulated sugar. 

Eggless Jumbles — Jelly Rings 

l!/4 pounds sugar, lVo pounds butter, 1 pound lard, 3 
pounds cake flour, *4 ounce baking powder, vanilla, egg color. 
Mix as usual. These are best dressed with bag and large star 
tube in small patty tins, making rings and leaving center 
open. Bake in medium oven, dust with sugar, and put a dot 
of good jam in center. 

"S" Jumbles 

2 pounds flour, l 1 /^ pounds butter, % pound sugar, 4 whole 
eggs, 8 yolks, vanilla or lemon flavor. 

Butter Rings 

2% pounds flour, li/ 2 pounds butter, 1 pound sugar, 9 eggs, 
a little ammonia, vanilla. Use biscuit or jumble machine and 
set on pans in small rings. Bake in medium heat. 

139 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Champagne Strips or Wafers 

Use butter ring mixture. Use flat corrugated die in bis- 
cuit machine. Cut in 4-inch strips, bake on double tins. 

Spiced Crumb Rings 

Rub 7 ounces butter in 1 pound flour, add 1 pound sifted 
cake crumbs, 12 ounces sugar, i/ 2 ounce mixed spices, mix with 
2 or 3 eggs and 1 ounce ammonia, and a little water, into firm 
paste. Use star die in biscuit forcer, and form in small rings 
on the pan. Ice rings when baked. 

Wafer Jumbles 

1% pounds powdered sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 12 eggs, 
2V2 pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Mix like cake, keep 
cool, and dress with medium-sized star tube on lightly greased 
pans in ring or "S" shape, or in small bars which may be 
sprinkled with cocoanut, chopped almonds, or left plain. 

White Vanilla Wafers or Cats' Tongues 

1 pound icing sugar, 1 pound white butter, 10 egg whites, 
1% pounds cake flour, vanilla flavor. Rub butter and sugar 
light, cream in the egg whites, then add flavor and flour. 
Dress on lightly greased pans with bag and small lady finger 
tube in small finger shapes, set well apart, and bake in about 
280 degrees Fahr. Take off while warm by running the 
palette knife under the cakes. 

Almond or Lemon Wafers — Almond Strips 

2 pounds powdered sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 6 eggs, % 
ounce ammonia, 21/2 pounds cake flour, flavor of grated rind 
of lemon or extract. Mix like cookies, set to cool to get firm. 
Work up cool. Roll out on dusted board or cloth. For wafers 
cut with snap cutter, set on pans and egg wash. For almond 
strips cut in 3-inch long, i/2-inch wide bars, wash on table 
and sprinkle thickly with blanched and finely chopped 
almonds, set on pans and bake in 300 degrees, or medium oven. 

Almond Wafers — Rolled Wafers 

1/2 pound almond paste, 6 egg whites, % pound powdered 
sugar, 4 ounces cake flour, 14 pint milk, a pinch of salt, pow- 

140 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



dered cinnamon to season. Mix into a smooth paste, dress 
with stencil on lightly greased pans. Bend or roll in any 
shape. The patterns or stencils are made out of cardboard, 
and the inside of the stencil is cut into the desired shape with 
a sharp penknife so the edges come out smooth. The mixture 
is placed on the point of the bowl knife and spread about T V 
inch in thickness. The wafers are taken off while hot and 
bent in leaf shape, cornucopias, etc. 

Walnut Wafers 

1/2 pound almond paste, % pound ground almonds, V2 
ground walnuts, 1% pounds sugar, a scant pint egg whites, 
V2 teaspoonful cinnamon, 14 teaspoon cloves and allspice, the 
grated rind of 2 lemons. Mix into a smooth-spreading paste 
on the fire until hot, dress in thin ovals on lightly greased 
pans dusted with flour or dress on sheets of wafer paper, and 
when baked and cool cut in bars or squares. 

Swedish Rolled Wafers — Cones 

The weight of 5 eggs in shell of powdered sugar, the same 
weight of soft flour; mix with the 5 eggs into a soft spreading 
paste, flavor with vanilla or with spices. Place a teaspoonful 
at a time on well greased baking pans, about 12 to 15 in a pan. 
Spread with back of a spoon very thin, in large ovals. Sprin- 
kle thickly with shredded cocoanut, and bake in a brisk heat. 
Bake only a few pans at a time. Draw to oven door and take 
off the wafers, while the helper rolls them quickly on sticks 
or forms them in cone shape. The baked wafers must be 
handled quickly, or they cannot be rolled. They may be baked 
without the cocoanut, rolled quickly on cone shaped sticks, and 
when cold the cones may be iced with a boiled chocolate icing 
or covered with thin fondant and filled with meringue, 
whipped cream or ice cream, as desired. 

Ice Cream Sandwich Wafers — Cream Wafers 

No. 1 — 1 pound cake flour, 14 ounces sugar, 4 eggs, 4 
ounces melted butter, y 8 ounce ammonia. Dissolve ammonia 
in a little milk, sift sugar and flour together, mix with the 
eggs and sufficient milk into a thin batter, beating in the 

141 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



melted butter. Bake in wafer irons, which should be well 
greased. 

Ice Cream Cone Wafers 

No. 2 — 2 pounds cake flour, 1/2 pound rice flour, 1% pounds 
sugar, 4 to 5 eggs, milk sufficient to make a smooth batter. 
Mix like sandwich wafers, bake in cone irons, and roll on 
pointed stick while hot. 

Dietetic Bran Wafers 

Set 1 pint of water to boil, and when boiling pour over 2 
pounds of bran, add 2 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening and 
let cool; then work in 1/4 ounce soda, % ounce powdered am- 
monia and 1 pound soft flour. Roll out thin and cut with 
wafer cutter. Bake in a cool oven until very crisp. 

Honey Wafers 

V2 pound sugar, ^ pound butter, 1 pint of honey, 1 pound 
of soft flour, flavor of mace and lemon. Drop out on lightly 
greased pans with bag and plain tube size of 25-cent piece, 
flatten and bake in cool oven. 

Rolled Brandy Wafers, or Snaps, or Butter Scotch 

1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 1 pint molasses, lemon rind, 
1 pound cake flour. Mix all together, place on greased pans 
far enough apart, bake in cool oven, roll while hot. 

These small cakes must be handled cool. After mixing set 
in ice box to stiffen, then roll into a string and cut in small 
pieces, set far apart on greased tins, flatten and bake as di- 
rected. Can be rolled on stick or bent over peel handle. 

SMALL HARD FANCY CAKES 
Chocolate Drops 

No. 1 — 3 pounds powdered sugar, y 2 pint egg whites, 6 
ounces melted chocolate. Beat egg whites light and beat in 
the sugar, then set on slow fire or in hot water and beat up 
until warm, add the melted chocolate and mix well. 

No. 2 — Boil 314 pounds sugar, % pint water, to 240 to 243 
degrees. In the meantime beat up 1 pint of egg whites, and 
when stiff beat in about 8 ounces powdered sugar. Pour the 

142 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



boiling sugar slowly into the egg whites and add 6 ounces 
melted chocolate. Mixtures should not be too stiff, so the 
drops flow to form a smooth top. 

Rose Drops — White Drops 

Use mixture No. 1 or No. 2 for these drops, omitting the 
chocolate, color pink, and flavor with rose extract. 

For white drops omit coloring and flavor with peppermint 
extract. 

Drop mixture while warm on lightly greased and dusted 
pans. Let dry, so a skin forms on top. Chocolate drops 
should dry about three hours ; the pink or white drops require 
less time to dry before baking. Bake in cool oven. 

These cakes may be made up in shape of drops, small fin- 
gers, scrolls or heart shapes, and may be decorated with vari- 
colored icings and used for Christmas tree confections. 

Vanilla Cream Drops, or Souffles 

Mix 20 yolks of eggs with about 3 pounds icing sugar and 
14 ounce of ammonia to a smooth, thick paste; flavor with 
vanilla. More or less sugar may be required to make the 
paste stiff enough so it does not run too flat when dropped on 
lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag and small plain 
tube, make up in the same shapes as chocolate drops. These 
drops dry quickly and should be baked as soon as a thin skin 
is formed. The -cakes bake up nicely and retain their shape 
well. Can be decorated like chocolate drops. 

Patience Drops or Figures 

Beat 9 egg whites (V2 pint) light, add 1 pound powdered 
sugar, beat up again, and add 14 ounces cake flour ; flavor with 
vanilla. For chocolate Patience add a scant ounce of melted 
cocoa. Dress on greased and dusted pans in round drops the 
size of a 25 cent piece, or form in figures or scrolls; let dry 
from 6 to 8 hours, then bake in cool oven. 

Anise Drops or Fingers 

Beat together 1 pound powdered sugar and 8 eggs until it 
thickens the same as for sponge cake, add V2 ounce anise seod, 
or flavor with a few drops anise oil, add some powdered ammo- 

143 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



nia, as much as will lay on a dime, and mix with 1 pound soft 
flour. Drop on flour-dusted pans in drops or in small fingers, 
let dry about 6 hours or overnight, and bake in fairly good 
oven. 

Cinnamon Sticks — Half Moons 

i/2 pound cake crumbs, V2 pound flour, 6 ounces sugar, 2 
eggs, % ounce mixed spice, y 3 ounce ammonia. Mix with a 
little water into a stiff dough. Roll in strips, ice with a firm 
royal icing. Cut in strips or fingers, or in crescents, set on 
pan and let dry for 2 hours. Then bake to a nice color. 

Dominoes 

Mix 1 pound sugar, 1 pound 6 ounces flour, 1/2 ounce cin- 
namon, 6 eggs and % ounce ammonia into a smooth paste. 
Ice with a firm royal icing, cut in 2 V2 -inch- wide strips, and 
cut the strips in 1-inch-wide fingers. Let dry on the pans 
and bake. When baked form in dominoes, making djvision 
and dots with chocolate. . 

Cocoanut Drops 

IV2 pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, % pint eggs, l 1 /^ pints 
milk, 2!/2 pounds flour, 2 ounces baking powder. Mix like 
cakes, drop on greased and dusted pans. Sprinkle with cocoa- 
nut and sugar. Bake in 300 degrees. 

SPRINGERLE, CHRISTMAS CAKES 

No. 1 — 2 pounds powdered sugar, 9 eggs, 2V2 pounds cake 
flour, 14 ounce ammonia, 1/2 ounce anise seed, or anise oil for 
flavor. 

No. 2 — 16 pounds sugar, 3!/2 to 3% quarts eggs, 20 pounds 
cake flour, 2 ounces ammonia, anise oil. Mixture makes 100 
dozen cakes. 

Mix sugar and eggs and beat light in cake machine, then 
add flavor and ammonia, then flour. Mix to a smooth dough. 
Roll dough out 14 inch thick and run over the springerle 
roller, or cut in pieces and press out in the dusted forms. Cut 
in squares with sharp knife and set on lightly greased and 
dusted pans. Let dry 5 to 6 hours and bake in cool oven. 

144 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Almond Souffles 

Make a soft macaroon paste with 1 pound almond paste, 
1 pound powdered sugar and a scant V2 P m t e SS whites, then 
work in sufficient, icing sugar to make a stiff paste. Flavor 
with vanilla. Roll out y 8 mcn thick on marble slab, dusting 
the slab with sugar. Cut out in small stars, rings, hearts, 
etc., and cut, with a very small cutter, a center out of each. 
Set on dusted pans, let just dry lightly, then bake in cool 
oven. These small cakes make nice Christmas confections 
and may be iced, dipped in colored sugar, etc. The cakes rise 
well in baking. 

Rose Souffles, Chocolate Souffles 

Mix 5 beaten egg whites with sufficient icing sugar into a 
smooth rolling paste, color pink, flavor rose, or add some 
melted chocolate or chocolate color. Handle like almond souffles 
and decorate when baked. 

HONEY CAKES 

Honey doughs improve with age and are best if made some 
time before they are used. The aging of the dough is said 
to improve the acidity, and make the doughs rich and mellow 
during the ripening period, thus making a better eating cake 
than fresh-made doughs. Honey doughs are made in many 
qualities, from pure honey, or part molasses and honey, other 
syrups are used with sugar and more or less water may be 
added before boiling. The flour should be a soft winter wheat 
flour, and in some honey doughs part rye flour and part soft 
winter wheat flour are used to make short, mellow dough. 
In Europe potash and ammonia or soda and alum are used 
for these doughs, but baking soda may be used with equal 
results in place of potash. 

A standing rule is used for making honey doughs: Even 
weights of flour and honey or molasses are used, more flour 
in proportion to water added. The honey is heated until it 
rises to a boil; this is checked by adding a little cold water. 
The syrup is taken off the fire, and with skimmer any impuri- 
ties which have risen taken off, or it is strained through a 
fine sieve into bowl or trough. When cooled down to blood 

145 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



heat, or about 98 degrees Fahr., sufficient flour is added to 
make a medium firm dough. 

Honey Dough 

Both honey and molasses vary in their density or sugar 
content, therefore some doughs bake* up richer and act differ- 
ently than others. In large factories the different doughs are 
tried out with soda and ammonia a couple days after they 
are made, to ascertain the amount of leaven required. When 
making smaller batches it is always best to bake a -sample to 
be certain of results. If the cakes are too light work more 
stock dough, containing no leaven, into the batch, if too close 
grained and heavy, increase the soda or ammonia slightly. 

To 55 pounds honey brought to boil add 40 pounds rye 
flour, 15 pounds winter wheat flour and mix. Take to 50 
pounds of this dough 4 ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia, 8 
ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce ground cardamom, 1 ounce nutmeg, 
i/2 ounce cloves, V2 ounce allspice. Make up in cakes or pep- 
pernuts. 

Standard Spice Mixture for Honey Cakes 

Mix together 10 parts high grade cinnamon, 5 parts all- 
spice, 3 parts cloves, 3 parts mace, 2 parts cardamom, have" all 
finely ground, and keep in closed jar ready for use. 

Artificial Honey, Invert Sugar Honey 

Dissolve 45 pounds corn sugar, or 45 pounds invert sugar, 
in 11 quarts (22 pounds) water, stir and let come to a boil, add 
3 ounces of dissolved tartaric acid, mix and let boil up again, 
then let cool and use. 

Honey Stock Dough 

No. 1 — To 50 pounds honey brought to a boil and cooled 
to blood heat add 50 pounds soft wheat flour, and make into 
smooth dough as directed. Let rest, well covered, in cool place 
for about 24 hours before using. For 25 pounds of this dough 
take 5 ounces of the spice mixture given, add 2 ounces soda, 
1 ounce ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. Work this in 
the dough with dough brake roller to incorporate the leaven 
and spices. 

146 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Honey Dough with Brown Sugar 

No. 2 — Dissolve 6 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water, 
let boil up, add i/2 ounce cream of tartar and let boil to 220 
degrees, or thread (see sugar boiling degrees). Then add 5 
quarts honey and mix well, let cool, and add 20 to 22 pounds 
soft flour, making smooth dough. 

Stock Dough with Artificial Honey 

No. 3 — Take half pure honey, half artificial honey, or half 
molasses, half artificial honey, or the plain artificial honey 
without any addition, let come to boil, add 1 pint water for 5 
pounds honey, stir and let cool. Then make a firm dough with 
sufficient soft wheat flour. A part of this dough may be used 
with some better grade of dough for figures and other small 
goods. Use leaven in the same proportion as in the regular 
stock doughs and bake sample as directed. 

Honey and Sugar Dough 

No. 4 — Dissolve 10 pounds brown sugar in 2 quarts water, 
let come to boil, and boil to 220 degrees. Add 10 pounds of 
honey, mix well, and let boil up together, strain and let cool 
to blood heat, then add 18 pounds cake flour to make a smooth 
dough. From the preceding stock doughs, which may be 
used singly or in combinations, such as half honey dough, 
half artificial honey dough or part sugar dough, quite a va- 
riety of cakes are made. About 1 ounce spice mixture is 
figured sufficient for 5 pounds of stock dough, with 2 ounces 
soda, 1 ounce ammonia, for 25 pounds stock dough for rais- 
ing. Thick honey cakes require a slight reduction in soda and 
ammonia, while for small cakes, such as figures and nuts, etc., 
a slight increase of ammonia is often permissible. 

Thick Honey Cake, Braunschweiger 

For 20 pounds stock dough take 3 ounces spice mixture, 
li/2 ounce ground anise seed, 1 ounce soda, V2 ounce ammonia. 
Mix this smooth with 3 eggs and work in. Bake sample. Roll 
dough out about % to V2 inch thick, lay on greased and dusted 
pan, set in a l/^-inch wood frame. Brush off flour and mark 
in small cakes about 2V£x4% inches, decorate each cake with 
blanched and split halves of almonds, one half in each corner, 

147 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



four to form star in center. Bake in medium oven and brush 
over with a thin vanilla icing while warm; then cut on the 
marked places with a sharp knife. These cakes may be cut 
and baked singly on the pan and iced when baked. 

Swiss or French Honey Cake 

Take 5 pounds brown sugar dough, 10 pounds honey dough, 
1% ounces soda, *4 ounce ammonia, 2% ounces spice mixture, 
l 1 /^ pounds finely chopped raw almonds, V2 pound citron, V2 
pound orange peel finely cut, V2 pound granulated sugar mixed 
smooth with 2 eggs. Work this well together. Roll out rather 
thin and cut in small oblongs to weigh about % ounce each. 
Bake on flour dusted pans and ice when cold. 

Nuremberg Lebkuchen 

Take 8 pounds honey stock dough, which contains the 
raising, add 1% ounces spices, % pound dropped almonds, and 
work in 2 eggs. Roll out and cut in small cakes, 2x4 inches, 
20 to the pound, and bake on flour-dusted pans in good heat 
so they do not dry out. Frost with vanilla. These are also 
made in 3V£-inch round cakes, decorated in the center with a 
star of blanched, split almonds, baked to a nice brown color, 
and iced with thin vanilla icing when cold. 

Fancy Nuremberg Leckerly 

No. 1 — 1 pound almond paste, 1 pound granulated sugar, 
1 ounce flour, sufficient egg whites to make a smooth paste, 
flavor of grated lemon rind. 

No. 2 — 1 pound almond paste, 18 ounces sugar, 8 to 9 egg 
whites, a pinch of ground cinnamon, 2 ounces melted chocolate. 
Mix like a macaroon paste. 

No. 3 — Beat up 1 pound sugar with 11 eggs on a slow fire, 
same as for sponge cake. When it thickens add 4 ounces 
chopped almonds, 14 ounces cake flour, 1 ounce spice mixture, 
and a pinch of ammonia. 

After the three mixtures have been prepared cut wafer- 
paper in rounds of about 4*4 inches diameter, or in oblongs 
2x4 or 2x3 inches. Spread the paste about y s inch to i/2 inch 
in the center of the wafers, smooth off the sides with a wet 
knife. For mixture No. 1 put half of a blanched almond in 

148 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the center of each cake of one-half the mixture ; the other half 
decorate with a slice of citron. For No. 2, sprinkle top half 
of the cakes with fine granulated sugar, mixed with nuts, the 
other half with white or colored nonpareil sugar. For No. 3, 
let the cakes dry after spreading on the wafer, so a crust 
forms before baking. Now bake these cakes in a cool tem- 
perature about 280 degrees, to a nice brown color. Glace the 
cake with a transparent icing. Six of these cakes are packed 
in fancy round tins or in round fancy paper packages tied with 
fancy ribbon, and sold under various names. 

Elisen Lebkuchen 

Mix 1 pound ground raw almonds, 1 pound granulated 
sugar, 3 ounces finely chopped citron, 1 ounce flour, % ounce 
cinnamon, a little ground cloves, the grated rind of one lemon, 
11 egg whites, a little ammonia, to soft spreading paste; dress 
on 3-inch round wafer papers, set on papered pans, and bake 
in 300 degrees. When baked and cold, ice one-third of mix- 
ture with chocolate, one-third with pink rose flavored icing, 
one with pale yellow lemon icing. Pack two of each kind in 
round fancy tins, holding six cakes. 

White Lebkuchen 

Warm 1% quarts milk and dissolve 5 pounds granulated 
sugar, let cool, then add V2 pound lard, the grated rind of 2 
lemons, and 4 ounces ammonia rubbed smooth with 2 eggs. 
Then work in about 10 pounds cake flour and mix smooth. 
This dough is used for figures, hearts and other kinds of 
small cakes. This mixture can be improved by adding 
blanched and finely chopped almonds and citron. Anise seed 
or oil is another favorite flavor for white cakes. 

Chocolate Honey Cake 

Take 10 ounces dissolved chocolate, 2 pounds sugar, 1 pint 
hot milk, and make a stiff dough, adding sufficient cake flour. 
Work this in 2 pounds honey dough with 1 ounce soda, 1 ounce 
ammonia, and 2 yolks. Bake a sample, roll out % inch sheets, 
cut in 3i/2 x 2 inch squares and bake in moderate oven on flour 
dusted pans. Frost with boiled chocolate icing. 

149 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Filled Honey Cakes 

To 10 pounds of honey dough or mixed dough add 1 ounce 
soda, 1 ounce ammonia, and work smooth with 3 yolks. Roll 
into y 8 inch sheet, cut in 4-inch-wide strips. Cover every other 
strip with filling given, and lay on the filling some citron cut 
in long thin slices. Bake in slow heat. Ice strips on both 
sides and sprinkle with nonpareil sugar, then cut in 2 1 / 4-inch 
wide slices or cuts. Pack side by side in fancy wrapper. 

Filling for Honey Cake 

Mix 1 pound almond paste, 4 ounces bitter almond, 12 
ounces sweet almond, finely ground with water to a smooth 
paste. Work in 1 pound currant jelly or jam, 2% pounds 
sugar, 1 pound ground sultanas, flavor with a little cinnamon 
and the grated rind of lemon, add sufficient water to make 
smooth spreading paste. Use as directed. 

Macaroon Honey Cake 

Roll 12 pounds honey dough containing the raisins, and 1 
pound ground almonds, into % inch thick sheet. Cut in 4- 
inch wide strips, cover each strip with a soft macaroon paste, 
such as is used for plain macaroons. Cut in small cakes and 
set on greased and dusted pans. Bake in 300 degrees. These 
cakes may be iced with almond flavored icing or left plain. 

Pflastersteine — Cobblestones 

These cakes are usually made lighter by adding more rais- 
ing. For 20 pounds honey dough or mixed dough take about 
4 ounces spice mixture, 2% ounces soda, 2 ounces ammonia, 
3 eggs and work smooth. Bake a trial, then roll out in a long 
string and cut in small nuts. Put in sieve and dust with flour, 
shaking them well together. Scale in 4- to 6-ounce portions 
and fill in rings which are greased and dusted, and set on the 
prepared pans. Bake carefully. When cold brush off the 
flour and ice, using a stiff brush with white or pink icing. 
Cobblestones are also baked in large squares in wood frames, 
iced and cut in pieces. 

Peppernuts 

These may be made from the same doughs as used for 
honey cakes or cobblestones. Varieties may be made by add- 

150 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ing chopped nuts and citron. Roll dough out and cut with 
small round cutter, or roll in long strips and cut in even-sized 
pieces, then round by hand, set on greased pans, flatten, and 
bake in medium oven. When baked and cold, ice as follows : 

Boil 5 pounds granulated sugar, 1 quart water to a strong 
thread, put drops in bowl, and pour the syrup over the drops 
in a thin stream, stirring constantly until the sugar granulates 
and forms a white coating. Some bakers simply dampen 
the well-dried baked nuts with a syrup, then roll them in icing 
sugar. 

Other varieties are made from the white sugar dough mix- 
ture by baking small nuts, which when baked and well dried 
are covered like the other peppernuts with white or pink 
colored sugar, flavoring the white syrup with a little pepper- 
mint, the pink syrup with rose, strawberry or raspberry flavor. 

Small Mixtures for Peppernuts 

No. 1 — Heat 6 pounds honey, 4 pounds N. 0. molasses and 

1 quart water to near boiling, let cool, add 3 ounces mixed 
spice, about 14 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces soda, IV2 ounces 
ammonia. Bake sample and make up as directed. 

No. 2 — Take 1 gallon molasses, let come to near boil, and 
strain in bowl; let cool and add IV2 pounds brown sugar, 
V2 pound lard, 4 ounces mixed spice, or 2 ounces spices and 

2 ounces ground anise seeds, 3 ounces soda, 1/4 ounce ammonia, 
and sufficient flour to make a stiff dough. Bake sample and 
make up as directed. 

Honey Dough for Figures 

Mix together 5 pints honey, 2i/ 2 pounds brown sugar, 1 
quart milk, heat to near boiling, put in bowl, add % pound 
lard, 3 ounces mixed spices, a few drops anise oil or 1 ounce 
ground anise seed. Let cool. Dissolve 1 ounce soda and 
1 ounce ammonia, and add to mixture with about 10 pounds 
cake flour. Use this the next day, for figures, hearts and 
small cakes of any kind. 



151 



IX. MACHINE-MADE COOKIES 



Many of the ordinary cookie mixtures may be adapted to 
be made by machine, but it requires good judgment to accom- 
plish this. A mixture may work well on one machine, but not 
on the other. Some flours work tougher than others, and a 
tough mixture may not work as good as a shorter mixture. 
The chemicals, especially ammonia, should be well dissolved. 
The average sweet biscuit or cookie mixture should never be 
overmixed. Overmixing toughens the mixture, especially 
when using a flour of good absorption. A good soft winter 
wheat flour works most satisfactorily. Many goods are im- 
proved if the dough is given time to shorten and rest for some 
hours. Some mixtures work stiff er in cold weather than in 
warm weather, and may accordingly require more or less 
flour or liquid. It is well to bake a sample before running off 
the whole batch, to see how it works in the machine and in 
baking. 

Sugar Cookies, or Light Cookies 

No. 1 — 36 pounds sugar, 17 pounds compound, 2 quarts 
eggs, 8 quarts milk, 3 ounces soda, 12 ounces ammonia, 60 
pounds soft winter wheat flour, vanilla flavor. 

No. 2 — 16 pounds sugar, 10 pounds corn syrup, 12 pounds 
compound, 1% gallons milk, 1% pints whole eggs, IV2 pints 
yolks, vanilla flavor, i/ 2 pound ammonia, % pound soda. 

'Mix sugar and shortening, add eggs, milk with ammonia, 
then flavor and flour. Mix rather soft. Run on depositing 
machine with 2 1 /2-inch round die. Before baking wash with 
sweetened milk wash or egg wash, or dip in sugar. Bake in 
medium hot oven, or 375 degrees. 

Syrup Crumb Cookies 

Eight pounds C sugar, 5 pounds compound, 2 quarts corn 
syrup, 2 quarts molasses, 3 quarts water, 12 pounds cake 
crumbs, 4 ounces mixed spices, 1 quart eggs, 20 to 22 pounds 

152 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



flour. Sift soda in flour. Mix as usual. Drop with large die, 
dip in sugar and bake in a cool oven. 

Scotch Cookies or Butterscotch 

Thirty-two pounds granulated sugar, 16 pounds compound, 
1 quart eggs, 2 quarts sugar honey (or pure honey), 2 quarts 
molasses, 14 ounces soda, 7 quarts milk, about 48 pounds flour. 
Flavor of mace and cinnamon. Mix as usual, drop with 2-inch 
die, dip with cloth soaked in syrup, or dip in coarse sugar. 
Bake in medium oven. 

Coffee Cookies 

Seven and one-half pounds C sugar, 4% pounds compound, 
2!/2 quarts honey, % pint yolks, 2% quarts molasses, 6 ounces 
soda, 2 ounces salt, 3 ounces ginger, lemon oil, 25 pounds soft 
flour, a little water, 1 ounce cinnamon. Sift sugar and cream 
with compound, add spices, honey and molasses, add lemon 
flavor and beat in the eggs, then the flour. Make a smooth 
dough, adding a little water if required. Run with 2-inch 
die. Bake in medium heat. 

Fruit Cookies 

Fifteen pounds sugar, 7 pounds compound, 2 ounces salt, 
3 pints eggs, 4 quarts milk, 2 ounces soda, 3 ounces ammonia, 
lemon flavor, about 25 pounds soft winter wheat flour. Mix 
like sugar cookies. Drop with 2-inch die on pans, sprinkle 
with small raisins or currants. 

Honey Jumbles 

Twenty pounds flour, 5 quarts honey, 1% pounds sugar, 
3% pounds lard, 1 quart eggs, 1 pint water, 6 ounces soda, 
6 ounces cinnamon, 2 ounces cloves, 1 ounce mace. Warm 
honey to about 120 degrees, let cool and add sugar, lard and 
eggs creamed together; add soda dissolved in water, then 
add flour, and make a smooth dough. Let stand for 3 to 6 
hours, then run on machine with small jumble die. Bake in 
medium oven. 

Cocoanut Macaroons with Almond Paste 

Twelve pounds macaroon cocoanut, 6 pounds almond paste, 
15 pounds sugar — half powdered, half granulated — 3 quarts 

153 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



egg whites, 3 pounds corn flour, li/ 2 pounds wheat flour. Work 
almond paste smooth with 1 quart egg whites, beat the other 
2. quarts light, beat in 2 pounds sugar, and work into the 
almond paste, then mix in the balance of the sugar and the 
cocoanut; then add flour. Do not toughen mixture, just mix 
clear. Drop with 1-inch die on flour-dusted pans. If mixture 
is too stiff, add a little syrup. Flatten tops with wet cloth, 
and bake in about 300 to 325 degrees Fahr. 

Oriental Cocoanut Drops 

Rub smooth 6 pounds C sugar, 2 quarts molasses, 3% 
pounds soft lard, add 2 ounces ginger and mace, 3 pints water, 
vanilla flavor, 2% ounces soda, i/2 ounce ammonia dissolved 
in the water; then add 3% pounds macaroon cocoanut mixed 
with about 12 pounds cake flour, mix clear, and drop on pans 
with 1-inch die; dip pans onto coarse cocoanut. Bake in 
moderate oven. 

Honey Cakes, Iced 

No. 1 — 2V2 pounds fine granulated sugar, 2i/ 2 pounds lard, 
3!/2 gallons honey, 3 pints water, 14 ounces soda, 3 ounces 
ammonia, 3 ounces salt, lemon oil and mace, 48 pounds flour. 
Mix sugar, softened lard and honey, add lemon, soda and 
ammonia, also salt dissolved in water. Mix in the evening 
and run off in the morning, giving it a mixing before running 
it off on the machine. Use a plain round die, and bake with 
a little steam. Ice when baked. 

No. 2 — 20 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds compound, 
6 quarts honey, 12 ounces soda dissolved in 1 quart water, 
3 ounces salt, 46 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces honey cake 
spices. Use plain round die. Bake in moderate oven with a 
little steam. 

Spiced Oatmeals 

Twelve pounds brown sugar, 9 pounds lard, 3 ounces salt, 
3 quarts molasses, 8 quarts milk or buttermilk, 5 ounces soda, 
6 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce cloves, 1 ounce cinnamon, 
12 pounds short oatmeal, 24 pounds cake flour. Mix like 
other cookies, drop on pans, wash with milk or dip in granu- 
lated sugar on the pans. 

154 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Mixed Jumbles 

Ten pounds powdered sugar, 2 pounds butter, 3 pounds 
lard, 3 pints eggs, 2% ounces ammonia, 2 ounces soda, 4 quarts 
milk, about 24 pounds soft flour, flavor of vanilla. Cream 
sugar, butter and lard, add eggs by degrees, then flavor and 
milk with soda and ammonia dissolved in it. Then add the 
flour and just mix clear. Run on pans as usual, with jumble 
die, dip one-third of the jumbles in coarse cocoanut mixed 
with sugar, some in colored sugar, or in nonpariel sugar, 
roasted and chopped peanuts, to make a variety. 

Molasses or Spice Jumbles 

Six pounds granulated sugar, 6 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 
4i/2 quarts molasses, IV2 pints water, 8 ounces soda, 5 ounces 
ginger, 1 ounce allspice, about 24 pounds soft winter wheat 
flour. Mix sugar and lard, add spices and molasses and salt 
dissolved in water. Sift soda thoroughly in the flour. Make 
a smooth dough. Run with jumble die, and dip on pans in 
granulated sugar; bake in medium heat. 

Butter Jumbles 

Nine pounds fine granulated sugar, 2% pounds butter, 4 
pounds compound, 1 pint honey, 1 ounce soda, 1*4 ounces 
ammonia, 4 quarts milk, vanilla or lemon flavor, 25 pounds 
soft flour. Cream sugar and shortening, add honey and flavor, 
then the milk with ammonia well dissolved. Sift soda in the 
flour and mix smooth. Bake in about 340 degrees Fahr. with 
a little steam. 

Lemon Cookies 

Twenty-four pounds granulated sugar, 8 pounds shorten- 
ing, 4 quarts eggs, 8 ounces ammonia, 2 quarts milk, 36 pounds 
cake flour, lemon flavor. 

Ginger Cookies or Snaps 

Twelve pounds granulated sugar, 6 pounds lard, 1 gallon 
molasses, 1 gallon water, 3 ounces ginger, 1 ounce cinnamon, 
8 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 32 pounds soft flour. 

Mix like other cookies, having mixture soft enough to 
pass through wire cut drop machine. Use more or less milk, 

155 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



according to strength of flour used. This holds good in using 
any other cookie mixture to use with machine; the mixtures 
must be regulated to suit the flour and machine. 

Sugarless Cookies, Using Corn Syrup 

Ten quarts Corn syrup, 10 pounds shortening, 2 quarts 
yolks, 8 quarts milk, 4 ounces soda, 48 pounds flour, 32 ounces 
baking powder, lemon flavor and salt. 

Sugarless Icing 

Boil 6 pounds glucose and 2 pounds honey or corn syrup 
with the juice of 2 lemons. Boil to 240 degrees Fahr. In 
the meantime beat up 1 quart egg whites. When stiff pour 
the hot boiled syrup slowly into egg whites and keep on beat- 
ing, medium speed, until nearly cold. Any flavor and color 
may be added. Icing is best used when freshly made, It 
may be used like a meringue for pies or for a filling. Flavors 
such as maple, chocolate, nuts and orange may be added. A 
nice combination filling is made by adding chopped seeded 
raisins, nuts and grated orange rind. 

Eggless Cake Mixtures 

Seven and one-half pounds granulated sugar, 6% pounds 
glucose, 5 pounds compound, 2 y% ounces salt, 9 quarts milk, 
15 pounds cake flour, 5 pounds bread flour, 4 pounds rice flour 
or corn flour, 22 to 24 ounces baking powder, flavor of mace, 
vanilla or lemon. 

For yellow mixture add 1 ounce egg color in milk, for 
white mixture 1/2 ounce pure cream of tartar, beaten in with 
the sugar and glucose. Mix as usual, regulating mixture with 
more or less milk. Use less milk if adding fruit. 



156 



X. SMALL FANCY CAKES 



SMALL CAKE FANCIES OFTEN CLASSED 
AS FRENCH PASTRIES 

Bouchee Macedoine 

Sponge drops are filled with creams or jams and iced 
Macedoine fashion, half the top dipped in chocolate, the other 
side finished part white, part pink, with a silver dragee in 
center. 

Bouchee Cerises — Bombes Cerises 

Sponge drops filled with jam and one whole maraschino 
cherry, covered entirely with cherry-flavored and colored fon- 
dant. 

Bouchee Chocolate — Bombe Chocolate 

A sponge drop filled with nut cream, covered with meringue 
shell of same size, covered with chocolate sprinkled with a 
few browned chopped almonds. 

Chocolate Bonne Bouchee 

Two large round or oval macaroons put together with jam, 
masked with chocolate, and sprinkled with browned almonds. 

Bouchee Citron — Bouchee de Oranges 

Sponge drops filled with lemon jelly or jam or orange jam, 
dipped in lemon or orange colored and flavored icing; sides 
masked with cocoanut, center decorated with white or yellow 
star of cream or with cherries and angelica. 

Othellos and Desdemonas 

Round sponge drops about 2 inches in diameter, baked and 
hollowed out, filled with whipped cream or rich pastry cream. 
Mask with apricot jam. Dip in chocolate for Othellos, in pink 
and white for Desdemonas. 

157 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Gateaux Cerises (Cherry Cakes) 

Bake small sponge cakes in flat round patty ^ tins, well 
greased and dusted with flour. When baked remove a small 
piece from center of top, fill cavity with cherry preserve, 
cover sides with jam, and roll in short cocoanut. Ice top 
white, and place half a candied cherry in center. 

Madelines 

Bake a light butter sponge or poundcake mixture in small 
round tins, or in timbale molds. These may be masked with 
jam or butter cream and rolled in chopped or browned almonds 
or filberts, finished with a dot of icing in center, or left plain, 
simply icing top and placing half a cherry in center. . 

Batons Amandes (Almond Bars — Almond Fingers) 

Cut from Genoise or poundcakes 2 to 3-inch strips % inch 
thick. Cover with a mixture of paste made of % pound 
almond paste, *4 pound sugar and 5 yolks, roll the covered 
cakes in blanched and chopped almonds, place in the oven and 
bake to a nice brown color. 

"Demi-Lunes Amandes" — Crescents, Half Moons 

Cut crescents from any good solid cake sheet, or bake 
crescents of Alliance paste. Cover with the same paste as for 
Batons, sprinkle with chopped almonds and bake to a nice 
brown. 

Almond Crescents 

Make a filling of V2 pound almond paste, % pound 
browned almonds, V2 pound crushed macaroons or part cake 
crumbs, 1 pound sugar, 14 egg whites, flavor of cinnamon and 
grated rind of lemon. Roll puff paste y 8 -inch thick, and cut 
in triangles, one side measuring about 5 inches, the others 
4 inches. Wash with water and put a strip of the filling on 
the broadest side, about the thickness of a pencil. Then roll 
together like Vienna crescents, egg wash, and bake in medium 
oven. These crescents may be finished in various ways or 
left plain. Cover with vanilla flavored icing and sprinkle 
with nuts, or cover with hot apricot jam or currant jelly and 
sprinkle with crushed sugar and nuts, or glaze while hot with 

158 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



a syrup and leave plain. By using a firm fruit jam in the 
place of almond filling, crescents or demi-lune aux fruits or 
aux apricots, etc., may be produced. 

Almond Strips 

No. 1 — Take good short paste, roll out y 8 -inch thick, wash 
with egg, cover with chopped almonds, cut in strips about 
3x1^ inches, and bake to a nice color. 

No. 2 — Make a mixture of half almond paste, half chopped 
almonds, as for macaroons. Spread this paste on strips of 
wafer paper 3 inches wide, sprinkle with chopped almonds, 
cut in 1%-inch-wide strips, set on pans, let dry a little and 
bake in about 280 degrees. These strips may be made in 
crescents, by setting the strips on half round bent tins, and 
bake. 

Wafer Paper Used for Baking 

Wafer paper is an eatable wafer made up in sheets, which 
may be bought from bakers' supply firms, and should not be 
confused with other paper. The wafer paper is made like 
the hand-rolled ice cream cones baked in irons. A similar 
wafer is used for ice cream wafers or Nabiscos and ice cream 
sandwiches. 

Panier Chantilly, Cream Baskets 
Bonne Bouchee a la Creme — Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate 

Bake plain cheese filling in oval crimped tins. When baked 
and cold cut off the top of center. Cut this in halves. Place 
two rows of whipped cream on each side for panier Chantilly, 
pastry cream or butter cream for cream baskets, then place 
the cut top to form two lids on the cream, allowing the cream 
to show as in a half open basket. Use a strip of angelica to 
from a handle. For bonne bouchee au chocolate, mask the 
round baked tart with apricot jelly, then cover with chocolate 
and decorate with nuts. 

Panier en Genoise 

Cut oval shapes from any good solid cake mixture baked 
about 1 inch to 1% inches thick. The pieces may be filled or 
left plain. Cut off a thin slice of the top. Mask sides with 

159 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



currant jelly, run a row of butter cream or whipped cream on 
top on each side, then cut top in two halves and replace on the 
cream to form two lids, allowing the cream to show between. 
Use a strip of citron or angelica to form the handle. Cover 
sides with short cocoanut. 

Mocha Slices 

Cut strips of 1-inch-thick sheets about 3 inches wide, cut 
and fill with mocha cream, cover with coffee flavored icing. 
Run a strip of red jelly on each side and two white strips on 
each side of jelly strip. Cut in 2-inch slices, decorate each 
slice with a scroll of butter cream, with a dragee in center. 



FANCY SLICES AND STRIPS 

Roll out and cut strips of short paste 4 inches wide, and 
as long as the baking pan. Set on pans and turn over the 
edge of each strip, crimp up to form a border and partly bake. 
When baked put a strip of jam along the center and fill with 
any of the following mixtures : 

Almond Slices 

Take % pound almond paste, % pound sugar, 6 egg whites, 
a pinch of cinnamon ; mix and stir over the fire and let come 
to a boil. Take off the fire at once and fill in the partly baked 
strips. Bake in good heat and cut in slices while warm. 

Chocolate Slices 

Beat 6 egg whites, add 1 pound sugar, and stir in 6 ounces 
of ground almonds; mix and add a little melted chocolate, 
let come to a boil, bake and finish the same as above. 

Cocoanut Slices 

Take V 2 pound short cocoanut, % pound sugar, 6 egg 
whites, stir on fire, fill strips, and bake same as almond slices. 

Nut Slices 

Take other ground nut meats and mix in the same pro- 
portion already given. For a lower-priced covering, some 
cake crumbs may be added to the nut mixtures. 

160 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Cocoanut or Almond Fingers 

Take 1 pound sugar, 1/2 pound almond paste, % pound 
cocoanut or chopped almonds, 2 to 4 ounces cake crumbs, 
about % pint egg whites. Mix sugar, softened almond paste, 
crumbs and nuts with egg whites to a soft paste; a little 
water may be added, according to dryness of crumbs, to make 
it like a macaroon paste. Heat and stir on the fire to soften, 
but not boil. Roll out a sheet of tart paste or short paste to 
form a square as wide as baking tin, with a board on the open 
side. Spread the paste with jam or jelly, then pour the nut 
paste over the jam, level it, sprinkle with some sliced almonds 
or cocoanut, and bake in a medium oven. When cold, divide 
in 3-inch-wide strips and cut the strips into fingers. The 
preceding nut pastes may be used by adding chocolate, making 
into finger shapes. 

Strips and Slices, Fancy Macaroon Paste 

From rolled out short paste cut 2 1 /2-mch-wide strips. Set 
on pans, and with bag and star tube run a strip of fancy 
macaroon paste on each side, and one strip along the center 
of the short paste. Let stand and dry for half hour or more, 
then bake. When baked run a pink or white icing in one space 
between the strips, and a strip of chocolate on the other side 
of the center strip of almond paste, then cut in fingers while 
warm. 

Another way is to run one strip of macaroon paste on 
each side, fill center space with jam, and bake. Then cover 
jam with icing, which may be put on in strips of two or three 
colors. 

Mocha Slices — Chantilly Cream Slice 

Bake 2 1 /2-mch-wide strips of short paste. Put two strips 
together with good jam or jelly. With bag and star tube 
put on a border and center strip of butter cream, covering 
the baked strip entirely. The center strip may be colored 
pink, side strips left white; other flavors and colors make 
quite a variety. Whipped cream or a combination of both 
creams may be used. Cut in slices with knife dipped in hot 
water to produce a clean cut. 

161 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Meringue and Marshmallow Slices 

Bake 3-inch-wide strips of short paste, or take baked 
sheets of sponge cake or jelly-roll mixture and cut in 3-inch 
strips. Cover with good jam. Cover this with a standard 
cold meringue, raising the meringue high in center to form a 
triangle cut. Dust with powdered sugar, set on double pans 
or board, and brown nicely. The slices may be iced in pink 
or chocolate and cut with a knife dipped in hot water, same 
as cream slices. The meringue may be put on with bag and 
plain tube, first three strips on. bottom, then two strips on top 
of the three, then one strip on the top, pyramid fashion. 

Other meringue slices may be made of puff paste, baking 
strips with a border. Put jelly on strip, then cover with 
various flavored pastry creams, or lemon or orange cream, 
and cover this with strips of meringue — a soft meringue. 
Brown nicely, then cut in slices. 

In this manner many nice pastry cuts may be made, with 
fresh berries or other fresh fruit in season. These cuts are 
good sellers in the lunchrooms. Marshmallow may be used in 
the place of meringue, letting the marshmallow set and dry 
before cutting in slices without baking, sprinkling the marsh- 
mallow with finely chopped browned nuts, or icing the slices 
with chocolate or fondant. Slices may be decorated with 
jelly or with half a cherry placed on each cut. 

CREAM PUFFS, ECLAIRS, CHOUX OR CREAM BUNS 

Cream puffs and eclairs are made of the pastes given in 
chapter on pastes. 

The name "Cream Buns" is used largely by British con- 
fectioners for cakes made from the same paste, also from a 
cream puff paste containing sugar. The cream buns are cov- 
ered with a special tin made for baking cream buns; this 
gives a glossy appearance, and cakes containing sugar do 
not brown too quickly under cover. 

"Pate au Choux" is the French name for cream puff paste, 
which is often made with sugar, the same as St. Honore paste 
or French fried cake paste. Cream Buns and "Choux" may 
be made from the following paste: Take 1% pints water, 12 
ounces butter and lard, 3 ounces sugar, 12 eggs or more to 

162 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



make a smooth paste. Set water, sugar and fats to boil. When 
boiling add the sifted flour, and mix to a smooth paste; put 
in bowl and gradually add the eggs in small portions, mixing 
well between each addition. Mix to a smooth paste, add a 
pinch of powdered ammonia. Drop out in small drops, size 
of a walnut, or set on pans in small 3-inch fingers for eclairs. 

Cream Puffs 

Fill the baked puffs with plain pastry cream and set on 
pans. Sift a little icing sugar over the filled up puffs, and 
they are ready for sale. 

Cream Puffs with Whipped Cream 

Cut a slice off the top entirely and fill with the whipped 
cream, using a spoon, replace top so as to let the cream show 
on the sides ; dust with icing sugar. 

Cream Buns 

Fill the same as other cream puffs, with pastry cream, 
whipped cream, or meringue, and dust with icing sugar. 
Fancy cream buns are made rather small and iced with 
variously colored and flavored fondant, sprinkled with some 
browned chopped almonds. 

Eclairs, Eclair Farcis, Choux Farcis 

Eclairs are made in various sizes in finger shape, measur- 
ing from 2 to 4 inches. They are usually filled with pastry 
cream and, after filling, iced with chocolate, caramel, coffee, 
or other icings. In the French pastry shops very small eclairs, 
about 2 inches long, filled and iced, are named "petit eclair 
farcis," which means, in English, little filled eclairs. Small 
cream puffs which are filled with various creams or jellies and 
then dipped in sugar cooked to the caramel degree, or cov- 
ered with various icings, or brushed with hot jelly or syrup 
and sprinkled with chopped nuts, are given various names, 
such as "choux farcis au caramel," or "au chocolate," etc., to 
denote the filling or icing or flavor. These small eclairs and 
puffs are covered entirely, like other dipped cakes, and set on 
wires to drip and dry. 

Other varieties of these cakes are made of cream puff 

163 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paste dressed on the pans in the shape of bananas, with 
pointed ends, filled and iced in pale yellow, with banana- 
flavored icing. From a firm paste, using bag and star tube, 
fingers and scrolls in S and C shape are set on pans, let dry 
a little to hold the shapes, then bake. Fill and ice with trans- 
parent fondant or other icings and decorate to suit the fancy. 

MACAROONS AND ALMOND PASTE GOODS 

The ready-made almond paste has come into almost uni- 
versal use in making macaroons and many other fancy cakes. 
It is made from pure almonds and is of a quality which 
always gives satisfaction. The paste is used often with an 
addition of other nut meats. Almonds are blanched, sliced 
or chopped fine; filberts or hazelnuts are usually roasted and 
the brown skin removed; other nut meats, such as walnuts, 
pecans, etc., are simply ground or chopped and mixed with 
the paste. 

To Blanch Almonds 

Cover the dry raw almonds with boiling water. Let stand 
in the water for a few minutes, until the brown skin easily 
slips off when pressed between the fingers, then pour off the 
hot water and cover with cold water. Pistachio nuts may be 
blanched the same as almonds. The blanched almonds may 
be dried on a pan covered with a cloth. If wanted sliced or 
chopped fine the blanched almonds are best used while soft, 
before drying. To make a macaroon paste from freshly 
blanched almonds, the almonds are rubbed to a smooth paste 
in a mortar, and for each pound of almonds 2 pounds coarse 
powdered sugar and sufficient egg whites are added to make 
a soft paste which can be dropped out with bag and tube. 
(For other macaroon pastes, see chapter on Pastes.) 

Plain Macaroons 

Use the plain macaroon recipe given. Lay out on paper 
with bag and %-inch tube, drop out about the size of a 
quarter of a dollar. Macaroons are made in different sizes, 
depending on whether they are sold by weight or by the 
dozen. After dropping out, the points should be slightly 
pressed down with a wet doth before baking. If macaroons 

164 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



cannot be baked at once, care should be taken that no crust 
forms on them, because this would cause a coarse, uneven 
crack in baking. Bake macaroons in a temperature of from 
280 to 300 degrees. Use thick pans and one thickness of 
paper, or double pans or double paper, so the bottom is well 
protected. Arrange your oven heat by means of door and 
damper. It is well to leave door and sometimes even the 
damper open until the macaroons have spread and show a 
nice crack ; then damper may be closed, also door if required, 
so the cakes bake to a nice light brown color, which takes 
about 18 to 20 minutes at the given temperature. 

Jelly Macaroons 

Make like plain macaroons and bake as usual. While 
warm from the oven make dent in center size of pencil, fill 
with jelly or jam, and put a drop of icing on top of jelly. 
Another method is to turn the macaroons over on granulated 
sugar, or dust them with granulated sugar, shake off the 
surplus, then bake and fill. 

Lemon or Orange Macaroons 

Make the plain macaroon paste slightly firmer and add 
for each pound of almond paste the grated rind of two lemons 
or two oranges. Drop them out slightly larger than plain 
macaroons, turn over on granulated sugar, and bake. When 
cold remove from paper and ice bottom with lemon or orange 
flavored and colored icing, let dry, and decorate center of top 
with a dot of icing, using various colors. 

Chocolate Macaroons 

Take 2 pounds almond paste, 2 pounds 6 ounces sugar — 
half granulated, half powdered — 4 ounces chocolate, a scant 
pint of egg whites, a little powdered cinnamon. Melt the 
chocolate and add to worked-up mixture last. Regulate the 
stiffness of mixture, making it about the same consistency as 
plain macaroons. Dress on paper as usual and sprinkle with 
granulated sugar, or use white nonpareil sugar. Bake in 
about 280 to 300 degrees on double paper, or use double pans. 
Care must be taken in baking, because the dark color is 
deceiving, not to underbake or overbake. These macaroons 

165 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



may be further decorated by making an impression in the top 
immediately after baking and filling the dent with icings in 
contrasting colors, placing a silver dragee in the center. 

Macaroon Fingers 

These may be made from the plain macaroon paste and 
also from the chocolate macaroon paste, making these pastes 
slightly firmer with a little flour, or adding a few cake crumbs ; 
or chopped browned almonds may be added. The. fingers are 
dressed on paper the size of ladyfingers, turned over in a 
mixture of chopped or sliced almonds and coarse sugar, then 
baked to a nice color. Another way is to take 1 pound almond 
paste, 1 pound ground almonds, 1 pound cake crumbs, 2 pounds 
coarse powdered sugar. Work this into a paste with yolks of 
eggs. This paste is rolled into strips as long as the pan, 
flattened and washed with egg, sprinkled with chopped 
almonds and baked, then cut on the pans in neat fingers. 

Dutch Macaroons 

Make a soft macaroon mixture, using 1 pound almond 
paste, 1 pound powdered sugar, flavor of cardamom. Lay out 
with plain tube in round or oval shape and let stand until 
a crust forms, which takes from 6 to 12 hours. Cut along the 
center with a sharp thin knife dipped in water, and bake in 
medium heat. These may be put together with a little firm 
jam or sold plain. 

Fancy Macaroons 

Many shapes may be made from the plain macaroon paste 
and also from the special fancy macaroon paste given. With 
the plain macaroon paste made slightly firmer all kinds of 
small fancy designs may be piped on papered pans ; the same 
may be done with the fancy macaroon paste. Different shapes, 
such as plain rounds, ovals, and dots, are set together in 
various shapes. These are baked and used for bases to pipe 
on the icings to suit the shape, using fondant or icings which 
dry quickly. For the fancy macaroons, which are dressed 
on paper with bag and star tube, the decorating is done with 
candied cherries cut in small pieces, angelica or citron cut in 
diamonds. Blanched and split almonds are also used. Many 

166 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



patterns may be invented by the intelligent baker. For the 
fancy macaroons dressed on with star tube, it is best to put 
on the angelica, cherries or diamonds while the mixture is 
soft. Then let the macaroons stand and dry over night, 
before baking, in order to retain their shape. These macaroons 
are baked in a fairly good heat so they brown nicely, and 
when baked they are lightly brushed over with a gum wash 
or a simple syrup to give a nice gloss. Removing the deco- 
rated macaroons from the paper is done by dipping a bag in 
hot water; lay this on the table or pan and set the paper with 
the cakes on top. The cakes will come off easily. 

SMALL FANCY CAKES OF MODELING PASTE 
Potatoes, Pears, Apples or Peaches 

Make a center of stale cake crumbs mixed with a little 
syrup or soft jelly, and form in the shape of the object to be 
made, Roll out some modeling marzipan and cut out with a 
large round cutter. Fold the paste around the centers, 
slightly forming it in the shape desired, and smooth out the 
foldings. For the potatoes form oval shapes, roll in pow- 
dered cocoa, and make the eyes with a small quill. For apples 
and pears form the center in' the shape of the natural fruit, 
color the marzipan a pale yellow. The top may be made from 
a whole clove with the berry taken out, the stem of angelica. 
With a large leaf tube and green colored royal icing a leaf 
may be piped on the side. 

When molding the peaches, make a groove on one side as 
in the peach, then place a stem and leaf the same as for 
apples or pears. The cheeks of the fruit may be tinted with 
a wad of cotton dipped in powdered carmine, or by sprinkling 
on a few dots of red color. Colors should not be used too 
strong, which makes the cakes lose their appetizing appear- 
ance. A cake is to be eaten, and strongly contrasting colors 
should be avoided. In high grade marzipan goods the cake 
center may be left out and marzipan used entirely. 

The cost may be reduced by adding glucose to the almond 
paste and working in as much sugar as it will take up. 
Easter eggs, large and small heart shapes for St. Valentine's 
day, and many other decorations, may be made of marzipan. 
Small fancy breads and rolls, twists and pretzels may be 

167 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



shaped, set on boards, just colored in a hot oven, then glaced 
with a gum-wash. Forms for modeling the paste may be 
bought from the baker's supply firms. For cake decorating, 
marzipan or almond paste is preferable to gum paste, because 
it is good to eat, while gum paste is rather for display only. 

Cocoanut Macaroons 

No. 1 — 3 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 4i/2 pounds sugar — 
half granulated, half powdered, about 2% pounds egg white 
or more, according to dryness of cocoanut. Mix this together 
in kettle on the fire and stir so it becomes clear and hot with- 
out boiling. Take off and let cool a little, then drop out 
with bag and plain tube. The mixture should not be too soft. 
Flatten tops with damp cloth and bake the same as almond 
macaroons. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds macaroon cocoanut, 2 pounds granulated 
sugar; 11/2 pounds powdered sugar, 8 ounces corn flour, 1 to 
li/4 pints egg whites. Mix on fire like No. 1. Let cool and 
drop on greased and flour-dusted pans. 

Macaroons of Freshly Grated Cocoanut 

No. 3 — Take even weights of moist freshly grated cocoa- 
nut and granulated sugar, mix well together, then set on fire 
and stir without scorching until mixture is well heated. Take 
off the fire, let cool a little and mix with sufficient egg white 
to form a not too soft mixture, which can be dropped out 
with bag and plain tube on greased and dusted pans. Bake 
in about 300 degrees. 

Chocolate Cocoanut Macaroons 

Add sufficient chocolate to the hot mixture when taken off 
the fire, and add for each ounce chocolate 2 ounces more 
sugar and sufficient egg white to make the mixture of the 
proper consistency. 

Cocoanut Crescents, Half Moons 

Mix 3 pounds cocoanut, 5 pounds sugar, 1 quart egg whites, 
% pound flour together, warm on the fire to. make a smooth 
paste, let cool, then dress with bag and tube on pans and 
bake the same as macaroons. 

168 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Almond crescents may be made from a fairly stiff plain 
macaroon paste, dressed in crescent shape or horseshoe shape 
on paper, sprinkled with a few chopped almonds, then baked 
like macaroons. They may also be made with a base cut from 
plain short paste, set on lightly greased pans, the macaroon 
paste dressed on top of the short paste and baked. Fancy 
cakes of this kind may be dipped in fondant or iced. These 
are known in French pastry shops as "Demi-lune aux 
Amandes." 

Cocoanut Macaroon, Cold Mixture 

Beat 1 quart egg whites light, add about 4 ounces granu- 
lated sugar; then mix together 3% pounds sugar — half 
powdered, half granulated, 4 ounces flour, 4 ounces cornmeal 
and 3 to 3% pounds short cocoanut ; mix with the egg whites. 
Dress on paper with bag and plain tube, flatten top lightly 
with wet cloth, then bake in 280 to 300 degrees, on papered 
tins. 

MERINGUES AND FANCY KISSES 

From the meringue paste given quite a line of very attrac- 
tive cakes can be made. They may be varied in flavor and 
color, made in combinations with nut meats, containing spices, 
chocolate or fruit flavors. One variety of kisses and shells 
are baked on wet boards, soaked in water and covered with 
paper. The boards are best made of non-resinous wood of a 
size so they may be soaked in water in the sink or other con- 
venient place. The boards should be about 2 inches thick. 
Other kinds of meringues may be dressed on lightly greased 
and flour-dusted pans or on papered tins. A proper heat for 
meringues and kisses should be about 240 degrees and the 
damper should be kept open without having too much draft. 

Cocoanut Kisses 

Dress the cold meringue paste, made with 3 pounds stand- 
ard powdered sugar (or half powdered sugar, half fine 
granulated sugar), with bag and large star tube in rings of 
about 2 inches diameter, on lightly greased and dusted pans. 
Sprinkle with long shredded cocoanut. Turn pan upside down 
to remove the surplus cocoanut, then dry to a light brown. 

169 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Soft Cocoanut Kisses 

Dress small round or oval shapes on wet paper-covered 
boards, shake off surplus and dust with powdered sugar. Bake 
these to a very light brown color, then slide the shapes off the 
paper, and put two together. Set on papered pans. 

Jellied Cocoanut Meringue 

Make like the preceding kisses, cover with short cocoanut, 
set on papered boards. Dry to a very light color, then put 
together with a dot of good jelly in the center. 

Orange or Citron Meringue 

Flavor meringue with some finely chopped orange or citron 
peel, dress on wet papered boards with star tube in ovals or 
nut shape, cover with finely chopped walnuts ; put two together. 

Filbert Meringues 

Dress small round shapes on one board and the same num- 
ber of high cones on another board. Dust with cinnamon. 
Put both shapes together to represent the filbert. 

Almond or Pistachio Kisses 

Dress finger shapes on papered boards, sprinkle with 
sliced almonds or pistachios, let dry, and put two fingers 
together. Cocoanut and other nut meats may be used. , 

Apples or Pears 

Dress round or pear shapes in two colors on the papered 
boards with bag and plain tube. This is done by placing a 
little pink colored meringue in one side of bag, and plain 
white on other side. Drop out in small globules, half round or 
half pear shape. A strip of angelica may be used to represent 
the stem ; a whole clove, from which the berry has been taken, 
the top. Colored sugar may be sprinkled on, and when dry 
the two shapes may be put together. 

Chocolate Meringue 

Color meringue with powdered cocoa, drop on greased and 
dusted pans in rounds, rings, fingers or scroll shapes, sprinkle 
with cocoanut or chopped almonds. 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Other fancy shapes may be made of meringue, using a 
plain tube for bottom shape. Then use a small star tube and 
form a smaller shape in different color on top of the plain 
shapes. 

Mushrooms 

These are made in two pieces. Round flat bulbs may be 
run out on boards or on paper. On another sheet, with a 
smaller tube, pointed stems are run off and dried in cool 
oven. The tops may now be taken from the paper and the 
bottoms dusted with cocoa; then the points of the stems 
may be inserted in the bottom with a little meringue or other 
icing. 

Other combination cakes are made from sponge drops and 
meringue drops of the same size, put together with various 
fillings and icings. The meringue drops may be dressed on 
boards or on dusted pans, baked, and kept on hand to use as 
required. 

Meringue Shells, Easter Eggs 

These shells are laid out on boards with bag and plain tube 
in the shape of the ordinary egg. With a little practice they 
may be laid out smooth, without any point. They are dusted 
with sugar and dried rather than baked, in a cool oven. When 
taken off the paper the soft center is scooped out with a small 
spoon and smoothed down, and the shells are dried a little 
more. Another plainer way is to bake them on plain paper 
and simply press in the bottom. The shells are put together, 
filled with whipped cream or meringue, or with preserves, 
decorated and iced in different colors. 

Meringue Baskets 

Dress up large shells same as for Easter eggs, bake and 
scoop out, let dry, turn upside down and put on four dots of 
royal icing or meringue to serve as feet; let dry, then make 
a fancy border with vari-colored icing, and fill with whipped 
cream or ice cream, etc. The handle may be made of a strip 
of angelica, or handles may be made from royal icing, put on 
a half round waxed tin, left to dry, and put over the filling. 

171 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Animals and Figures 

This requires a little practice, but a large variety may be 
made by using two colors of paste in one bag, laying them 
out on paper or lightly greased and dusted pans. Use bag 
and plain tube. Pigeons and roosters are made by starting 
to lay out the tail; form the body, and lastly draw up the 
head ; then put on the wings, feet and eyes. Swans and large 
birds are made on one side only, to lay flat on the pan ; others 
can be made to sit up straight. 

For some animals a foundation may be made, forming a 
flat bottom. Sprinkle this with green colored sugar, then 
with a plain tube the animal figure is put on, starting at the 
back part of the body in "S" shape. Next make the head ; put 
on ears, legs and tail, eyes, and dry in very slow heat. 

Floral Meringues 

These may be made by starting with a dot of rose-colored 
meringue on pan. Let dry lightly, then put on the petals 
with flat large rose tube, carving the petals around the raised 
dot, lifting them to give the appearance of an open rose. 
Dust them lightly with fine powdered sugar, and let dry care- 
fully. Other flowers are made in the same fashion. 

Large and Small Tart Cases of Meringue 

From the standard meringue a plain bottom with a high 
border is dressed on paper of the size required. With a star 
tube a fancy top of the same size is also dressed on another 
paper. The top may be made a fancy border and latticed, 
in any desired form, and dried in cool oven. These large or 
small shapes may be kept on hand. Before using put in a 
cool place, then fill with whipped cream, mocha cream, ice 
cream, or combinations of berries and cream. Two or more 
bottoms may be set together and decorated. 

Strawberry or Raspberry Meringue Tart Specialty 

Boil together 1 pint strawberry or raspberry juice and 
2 pounds sugar, or use % pint water, colored and flavored with 
extract and citric acid. In the meantime beat up 16 egg 
whites and add a handful of icing sugar. When sugar is 

172 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



boiled to strong thread, or 230 degrees, pour it slowly into 
the egg whites, beating constantly until the mixture cools. 
Fill ready-baked cases or small basket shapes of short paste 
partly with good strawberry or raspberry jam. Then place 
a pyramid of the meringue on top of the fruit. Dry lightly; 
then glace with fondant. Of course other meringue may be 
used for covering small tarts and cakes in similar manner. 



173 



XL YEAST-RAISED DOUGHS 
AND PASTRY 



There is quite a range in the quality of the yeast-raised 
sweet doughs, which are made in various degrees of richness 
to suit the needs of the trade. All milk, or half water and 
half milk, may be used, with from 5 to 12 ounces of sugar 
and from 4 to 16 ounces of butter or butter and lard for each 
quart of liquid. Eggs should be of the best grades, from 
2 to 5 eggs and more per quart. In low-priced goods eggs 
are left out, color often taking their place, but the eggs give 
the doughs a lightness which cannot be produced without 
them. These rich doughs require plenty of yeast to keep in 
the sweetness and make them perfect. 

Straight doughs and sponge doughs are both used with 
success, but to keep in the sweetness many bakers prefer a 
short quick sponge with plenty of yeast, followed by a short 
dough, to a long straight dough. Coffee-cake doughs are 
made rather soft, which method works best, and the time may 
be shortened or lengthened by using more or less yeast, to 
suit the conditions of the shop. It is best for these doughs 
to keep them at a warm temperature and maintain it through- 
out, during the time on the bench and when proving; chill- 
ing and cooling must be avoided. (Yeast-raised pastry doughs 
differ. They must be handled cool when rolling in the extra 
butter, and must be proved cool for the same reason). A 
short quick dough may be made by increasing the yeast, 
making a very soft batter sponge, using all of the liquid. 
This may be done as follows: For each quart of liquid take 
4 to 5 ounces of yeast, and use only 1 pound of flour; set 
sponge at 90 to 95 degrees. The sponge will rise and drop in 
about 30 minutes. Add the creamed sugar, shortening, eggs, 
etc., and make a soft dough, adding the necessary flour, which 
should be warmed to maintain the temperature. Let dough 
rise and break, push down, and it is ready for use. A good 

174 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



first patent flour, spring wheat or Kansas hard wheat, is 
preferred. If the bread flour is very hard and strong, from 
one-third to one-fourth of soft winter wheat flour may be 
used. Malt extract may be used to hasten fermentation and 
strengthen the yeast. Light brown sugar is preferred by 
some bakers, or half granulated and half brown sugar is used. 

STANDARD SWEET DOUGHS 

No. 1 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 3 pounds sugar, 
2 pounds butter, or butter and lard (salt according to salti- 
ness of butter), 1 pint eggs or half yolks, half whole eggs, 
lemon extract or, better, the grated rind of 2 to 3 lemons, 
% ounce mace, 4 to 8 ounces yeast. Flour as required to 
make a medium smooth dough. 

No. 2 — 2 quarts milk, 2 quarts water, 2V2 pounds sugar, 
2V2 pounds butter and lard, 5 eggs, flavor of lemon and mace, 
4 to 5 ounces yeast. 

No, 3 — 1 gallon liquid, half and half, 2 pounds sugar, 
2 pounds shortening, 5 eggs or egg color, flavor of lemon and 
mace, 5 ounces yeast. 

No. 4 — 1 gallon water, 6 to 8 ounces dry milk, 2 to 2V2 
pounds sugar, li/ 2 to 2 pounds lard, 2 ounces salt, 5 to 6 
ounces yeast. 

The sweet doughs are also used for yeast-raised dough- 
nuts, jelly balls or Bismarcks, but a rather soft dough is best 
suited for fried goods. 

For straight doughs, dissolve the yeast separately; cream 
sugar, shortening, eggs and flavor; mix liquid and flour, add 
the dissolved yeast, add sugar and shortening, and mix dough 
thoroughly. Maintain a warm temperature, from 83 to 85 
degrees Fahr., up to 90 degrees for a quick dough. Let dough 
come up full to the point of losing resistance, then let come 
half and take. 

For sponge doughs, use half or two-thirds of the liquid in 
the sponge; a large sponge is preferred by many bakers. Set 
a soft sponge with two-thirds of the liquid, with 2 to 2V2 
pounds flour for each quart. Take sponge when it breaks, add 
the rest of the liquid at the proper temperature, then break 
up fine and add the creamed sugar and shortening. The 
creaming of sugar and shortening with eggs improves the 

175 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



texture of the dough. Water may be used in the sponge, 
milk for doughing, and if using soft flour put the hard flour 
in the sponge, the soft flour for the dough. Let dough get 
ready to drop once, then punch down, let come half, and take. 
The ready doughs may be used for large and small coffee- 
cakes and for special buns and rolls. Or a part of the dough 
may be taken after the first rise; sponge dough when mixed, 
and add more sugar, butter and eggs to make a very soft 
dough for form cake. 

SPECIAL COFFEE-CAKE DOUGHS 

Special doughs known as Vienna or French coffee-cake, 
or by the name of yeast-raised pastry, are made from stand- 
ard sweet doughs. The ready dough is set in a cool place to 
stiffen, and some cold but pliable butter is rolled into the 
cold dough and given two times three foldings — the same as 
for puff paste — and after a little rest it is worked up in 
various shapes. 

Danish and Swedish pastry dough, also French pastry 
dough, are yeast-raised pastry doughs made by a shorter 
method. A cool straight dough is made, same as the standard 
doughs given, but with the difference that by using a very 
large quantity of yeast the butter may be rolled in as soon 
as the dough is made, instead of setting a sponge or making 
a long-time straight dough, the method used for regular 
coffee-cake dough. 

Butter produces the best flavored goods, and it is advisable 
to use the best butter where the proper price may be asked. 
But many bakers use a mixture of butter and pastry butterine 
which works even better than butter alone, because it is more 
plastic. When butter is very soft, work from 2 to 4 ounces 
of flour into each pound of butter; this facilitates rolling. 
Take a tub of creamery butter and one tub of pastry butter- 
ine, put in dough mixer and mix together. This mixture is 
well adapted for rolled-in pastry and for regular puff paste. 

ROLLED-IN PASTRY DOUGH 

Take 6 pounds of ready coffee-cake dough made from any 
of the formulas given. Set to cool, or roll out and lay on 
dusted pan and set to cool. Roll this into a long square, three 

176 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



times as long as wide, and divide from 1 to IV2 pounds of 
firm butter in small pieces over two-thirds of the dough. Fold 
in three, give a little rest, fold again in three, and it is ready 
to be worked up in a variety of shapes. Work dough up 
and prove in cool shop. The dough must be handled cool to 
prevent the butter from running out when working up and 
proving the goods. 

QUICKLY-MADE PASTRY DOUGHS 
Swedish Pastry Dough 

Make a cool dough with V2 gallon milk, % gallon water, 
li/2 pounds sugar, li/ 2 pounds butter and lard, 10 eggs, 1 
ounce salt, 1 pound yeast, 14 to 14 V2 pounds flour — one-third 
soft flour, two-thirds spring wheat patent. Divide dough in 
two pieces. Roll out into a long square % mcn thick. Spread 2 
pounds of butter on each piece, and roll in as directed above 
(4 pounds butter for the two pieces). Then roll out and 
work up. 

French Pastry Dough 

For dough, take 1 gallon — half milk, half water, 2 pounds 
butter and lard, 114 pounds sugar, 5 to 10 eggs, 1 ounce salt, 
the grated rind of 2 lemons, 1% pounds yeast, flour sufficient 
to make a smooth rolling dough. Have milk cold, 50 to 55 
degrees. Work smooth and of same consistency 6 pounds 
pastry butter. Divide the dough into four pieces, roll \y<± 
pounds butter into each piece as directed above. Set dough 
in ice box to keep cold and work up as required. 

Danish Pastry Dough 

Take % gallon cold milk, 1 pint eggs, 1/2 pint yolks, 1*4 
pounds sugar, 1 pound butter, grated rind of 2 lemons, 8 
ounces yeast, and sufficient flour to make a smooth dough. 
Divide the dough in two pieces on the flour-dusted bench, 
divide 3 to 3% pounds of butter on each piece, and roll in as 
given above. Roll out and cover and set in cold place. Work 
dough up cool and quickly, before the yeast starts to work. 
If flour is too strong, give a little time for dough to recover. 

During the warm months these rich doughs are best kept 
in the refrigerator between the rollings, and are best worked 

177 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



up in a cool place. The goods must be given time to prove in 
not too warm a shop temperature, and must be kept from 
drafts to prevent crusting ; only medium proof must be given, 
so the pastry gets crisp and leafy in baking. A baker used 
to handling puff paste will find no trouble in making this pastry 
if directions are followed. Less rich doughs can stand more 
proof before baking. 

Puff pastries, as well as Danish and Swedish pastry 
doughs, require cool handling and a cool place for rolling out, 
possibly in the storage room. This precaution, as well as 
keeping the doughs in the ice box so they may remain at the 
proper temperature, has much to do with the successful 
production of these goods. 

FORM CAKES— TURK'S HEADS— BUND KUCHEN 

These cakes are often made from a good rich coffee cake 
dough, adding, to each pound of dough, when it reaches the 
first rise, 1 ounce more sugar, 2 ounces melted butter, 1 egg 
and about 3 ounces mixed fruit, raisins, citron and almonds. 
Mix this into a smooth dough. The forms should be well 
buttered and sprinkled with some chopped or shredded 
almonds. The mixture should fill the forms about half, given 
only medium proof in the forms, and baked in about 350 de- 
grees or medium heat. 

Medium Grade Form Cake 

No. 1 — Set a warm sponge with 2 quarts milk, 4 to 6 
ounces yeast, 5 to 5% pounds flour, two-thirds spring wheat, 
one-third cake flour, at 85 to 95 degrees. Take the sponge 
as it breaks. Cream together l 1 /^ pounds sugar, 1% pounds 
butter, 8 eggs, flavor of grated rind of lemon. Add this to 
the sponge and beat up well, add 1 pound sultanas, 4 ounces 
chopped almonds. Let prove up half, then scale in the well 
buttered forms sprinkled with chopped almonds. Let double 
in size, then bake in medium heat. Sift powdered sugar over 
the cakes when baked. 

High- Grade Form Cake 

No. 2 — 2 quarts warm milk, 1 pint whole eggs, % pint 
yolks, 1% pounds sugar, li/ 2 to 2 pounds butter, 6 ounces 

178 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



yeast, 6 pounds flour, half bread flour, half cake flour, 1 pound 
sultanas, 1 pound almonds, y% pound orange and citron peel 
chopped fine. Mix and handle like No. 1. 

GERMAN STOLLEN 

The stollen is the German holiday fruit cake. Stollen 
keeps well and improves with age. A good rich yeast-raised 
dough, firmer than for coffee-cake, is made by the sponge and 
dough method, and in recent years a straight dough is pre- 
ferred for the richer grade. 

Best Grade Stollen 

No. 1 — 1 quart milk, 3 ounces yeast, % to 1 pound sugar, 
1 to 1*4 pounds butter, 8 eggs, 1 pound sultanas, 1 pound large 
seeded raisins, IV2 pounds currants, V2 pound almonds, 1 
pound — half citron, half orange peel, the grated rind of a 
lemon, % ounce ground mace, 4% to 5 pounds medium strong 
bread flour to make a firm dough. 

No. 2 — 1 quart milk, 4 ounces yeast, % pound sugar, % 
to 1 pound butter or part lard, 12 eggs or half yolks, 1% 
pounds sultanas, 1 pound citron, V2 pound orange peel, V2 
pound ground almonds, flavor of lemon and mace, about 4% 
pounds of fancy spring patent flour. 

Almond Stollen 

Take mixtures given, omit fruits, add 2 pounds blanched 
and finely chopped almonds, 4 ounces bitter almonds. From 
8 to 12 ounces finely chopped citron and orange peel improves 
the flavor. Stollen may be made from a good coffee-cake dough 
made firmer, and fruits worked in more or less as the trade 
demands. Let the dough come up full once, then let come 
half and take. 

How to Make the Stollen 

The stollen are made in sizes from 1 to 10 pounds. Scale 
off the ready dough and round up and mould in the shape of a 
Vienna loaf, cover and let prove up about half, then take a 
long rolling pin, not too thin, press down along the center and 
roll down so both sides may be folded over like a pocketbook 
or parkerhouse roll, having the bottom side larger than the 

179 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



top. Press down lightly and set on flour-dusted pans to prove, 
give about three-fourths proof, or even less if stollen are large. 
In Germany the best grades of stollen are washed with melted 
and cleared butter before going in the oven, and, when baked, 
washed again when warm and sifted over with cinnamon 
sugar, as much as the butter will take up. This may be modi- 
fied by washing the stollen with milk before baking, and with 
melted butter after baking. In American bakeries stollen 
made from less rich mixtures are washed with egg before 
baking, and lightly iced after baking. 

Stollen of Plain Sweet Dough 

Pieces of dough are scaled from % to l 1 /^ pounds, rounded 
up, and when half proved rolled into flat ovals about 12 by 6 
inches. Brush over with melted butter and sprinkle thickly 
with cinnamon sugar and some ground almonds or walnuts. 
Then roll up like crescents from the narrow end, and shape 
like a Vienna loaf. Let prove up half and make a cut length- 
wise, not cutting quite through to bottom nor to the ends, 
to prevent falling apart. Give more proof, egg wash and bake 
in medium heat. When baked ice with vanilla icing and 
sprinkle a few chopped nuts on top. 

Zwieback Doughs 

Zwieback in different shapes may be made from the stan- 
dard doughs No. 1 and No. 2, preferably by the sponge and 
dough process. 

MAKING VARIOUS GRADES OF SWEET DOUGH FROM 
ONE LARGE SPONGE, OR FROM BREAD SPONGE 

Figuring that 5 pounds sponge dough represents 2 pounds 
water or milk and 3 pounds flour (the average amount used in 
sponge doughs), in the place of setting small 2-quart sponge 
doughs, a simpler way is to weigh out from the ready larger 
sponge as much as needed, add more warm milk, also more 
yeast if a lively dough is required, and the enriching ingre- 
dients. Also, more flour as required. Let this dough come 
up once, work down, and it is ready. Examples : 

180 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Plain Sweet Dough for Buns 

Take 20 pounds sponge, 1 quart warm milk, ±14 to IV2 
pounds sugar, IV2 to 2 pounds shortening, 2 ounces salt. 

Coffee-cake Dough 

Take 10 pounds sponge, V2 pint or more warm milk, 2 
ounces yeast, 10 eggs, 1*4 pounds sugar, IV2 pounds butter, 
flavor of lemon and mace. Add flour as required, let dough 
come up once, push down, let come half, and use. 

FILLINGS USED IN YEAST-RAISED GOODS 

A variety of fillings may be used in the different goods. 
A plain dry filling is made by mixing granulated sugar with 
cinnamon, and a richer filling may be made by adding ground 
nuts or almonds to the sugar. A rich filling is made by grind- 
ing 2 pounds nuts or almonds, 2 pounds almond paste in the 
food chopper, and mixing this with 2 to 3 ounces cinnamon 
and 10 to 15 pounds granulated sugar. 

Soft Crumb Filling 

Mix 1 pound almond paste or ground nutmeats with 3 to 4 
pounds brown sugar, 3 to 4 pounds cake crumbs, and sufficient 
milk or water to a smooth-spreading paste. Flavor with cin- 
namon, grated rind of lemons or vanilla. 

Nut Fillings — Almond Filling 

Mix 1/2 pound almond paste and % pound chopped almonds 
with 1 pound sugar, 1 pound butter, 6 eggs, to a smooth paste ; 
add water if too firm to make a smooth-spreading paste. 

Soft Almond Paste Filling 

Mix 1 pound almond paste with 4 yolks and 2 whole eggs 
and 114 pounds sugar, flavor with lemon rind or vanilla. 

Spiced Nut Filling 

Use raw almonds, filberts, Brazils, walnuts or pecans, grind 
in meat chopper, and mix with sugar and eggs to a smooth 
paste. Flavor with mixed spices, chocolate or vanilla. The 
filling may be made less expensive by adding cake crumbs and 

181 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



water to spread nicely. Chopped candied orange peel or citron 
peel improves this paste. 

Berlin Fruit Filling 

Mix 10 ounces ground walnuts, 10 ounces almond paste, 10 
ounces currant or raspberry jam, 1% pounds sugar, into a 
smooth filling with sufficient water. 

Fruit and Nut Filling 

1 pound brown sugar, 1 pound granulated sugar, 1% 
pounds almond paste, % pound butter, y 2 pound seeded raisins, 
chopped fine with 6 ounces citron, 4 ounces orange peel, mixed 
with sufficient water. A firmer paste, which may be rolled 
in, may be made by omitting water, a couple of yolks of eggs 
being used to mix. 

Various Nut Fillings 

Various flavored fillings may be made of roasted filberts 
or hazelnuts, light, browned almonds, or any other nutmeats, 
ground and mixed with simple syrup into a smooth paste. 
Grated rind of lemon or orange, chopped fruit, spices, also 
crumbs, such as broken macaroons, wafers and sponge cake, 
may be added to mixture, with enough water to make it spread 
nicely. 

Poppy-Seed Filling 

Cover poppy seed with water, set in the oven to soften, and 
keep well covered. When soft, cool and wash' with cold water, 
let drain, and add for each pound of the seed, rubbed to a 
smooth paste, 1 pound light crumbs, V2 pound sugar, and 
flavor with cinnamon and cloves. Add sufficient syrup to 
make a smooth paste. 

Poppy-Seed Cake Filling 

Set to boil 3 pints milk and V2 pound sugar. When milk 
comes to a boil sprinkle 14 pound farina into it, take off the 
fire when it thickens, add % pound ground poppy seed, mix 
and add 2 ounces butter and 6 yolks of eggs ; beat 6 egg whites 
light and add to filling. This filling is used to spread on large 
cakes and baked like cheese cake, and usually iced with a thin 
vanilla fondant icing. 

182 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Cheese Filling 

2 pounds dry cottage cheese, 4 ounces sugar, 5 ounces 
melted butter, 3 ounces flour, 8 yolks, mixed with 5 to 6 ounces 
mixed and chopped citron and raisins to make soft filling. 

Fruit Fillings 

Good firm fruit jams, also crushed fruits or finely cut 
fruits made into a firm filling with a thickener, make very 
popular fillings for yeast-raised pastry. When fresh fruits 
are in season the fruits are made into a firm compote or 
stew, which may be thickened by adding a little dissolved 
cornstarch, also by adding crumbs. Canned fruits may be used 
as in fruit pie and tart fillings. 

Princess Fruit Filling 

Take 1 pound seeded raisins, 1 pound citron, 1 pound figs, 
1 pound walnuts, 1 pound almonds, run through food chopper. 
Mix this with 1 pound sugar, 4 eggs, and the juice of 4 to 5 
oranges, into a smooth filling. 

GLACINGS FOR CAKES 

Use a rich egg wash made of yolks with a little salt added ; 
water or a little milk may be added. For goods sprinkled with 
sugar the wash is applied rather thinly, so the sugar does not 
melt too quickly. 

Glacing to Use After Baking 

Dissolve 1 ounce gum arabic in 1 quart boiling water, add 
3V2 pounds granulated sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, let boil up 
once. Use on the hot cakes with a brush. 

Fruit Glacing 

Diluted and heated fruit jelly, such as apricot, currant, 
quince or apply jelly, is mixed with hot syrup and applied 
with a brush. 

BUTTER STREUSEL 

No. 1 — Rub 1 pound butter with 1 pound powdered sugar 
and 1/2 teaspoonful mace, smooth, then work into this 2 pounds 
of soft flour to form a ball. Rub this through a coarse sieve. 

183 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



No. 2 — 1 pound sugar, y 2 pound butter, 4 ounces crushed 
almonds, 2 yolks, 1 pound cake flour, cinnamon. 

No. 3 — 1 pound sugar, i/ 2 pound butter, 1% pounds flour, 
flavor of cinnamon. 

Mix ingredients together, same as for short paste. If too 
dry add a sprinkle of milk or water to make a firm paste which 
may be rubbed between the hands into small globular pieces 
or rubbed through a coarse sieve like No. 1. 

BUNS 

From the standard sweet doughs all the different sweet 
buns and coffeecakes can be made. The mixtures may also 
be used for zwieback, doughnuts or jelly balls, and by adding 
fruit and chopped peel a variety of special buns and cakes is 
evolved. 

Spice Flavoring for Buns 

In place of using the ground spices in buns a combination 
may be made by diluting 5 ounces lemon oil, 2 ounces oil of 
cinnamon, 1 ounce oil of cloves, in 1 quart white cottonseed 
oil. Flavor of mace and nutmeg may be added to special buns, 
such as hot cross buns. 

Where a dry spice combination is desirable, take y 2 pound 
cinnamon, 4 ounces mace or nutmeg, 1 ounce allspice and 
cloves, and mix with 1 pound sugar and a few drops of oil of 
lemon, or the grated rind of lemons. Rub well together. Keep 
in closed tins ready for use. 

Hot Cross Buns 

For each quart of dough add about 4 ounces finely chopped 
citron and 12 ounces currants or small raisins. Season with 
bun spices or simply flavor with mace and grated rind of lemon. 
Make up in round buns. Let prove up half, then flatten down 
on the pans, stamp with the cross; wash and finish proving, 
and bake in a good heat — about 400 to 450 degrees Fahr. The 
buns may be glaced again with a syrup if desired. 

Sultana Buns — Currant Buns 

To 6 pounds dough add from 12 ounces to 1 pound fruit, 
let prove up, break out in small pieces, mould round or oval, 

184 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



set on pans a little distance apart, let prove half, flatten, wash 
and let prove again, bake in good heat. Wash with syrup, or 
ice when baked. 

Almond Buns — Peanut Buns 

Add V2 pound roasted and chopped almonds or peanuts to 
6 pounds dough. Make up in rounds or ovals, flatten, egg wash 
and sprinkle a few chopped almonds or peanuts on top mixed 
with cinnamon sugar. Bake in good heat. 

Streusel Buns 

Use any dough containing some fruit, mould on the bench, 
let prove up half, and pin out in ovals; set on pans so they 
touch slightly on the sides, wash with milk and sprinkle with 
streusel; let prove, and bake in good heat. Dust with pow- 
dered sugar when baked. 

Lemon, Orange, Citron or Pineapple Buns 

Add a little finely chopped lemon, orange or citron peel to 
coffeecake dough, round up and lay in sugar, put in pans, let 
prove and bake, or make up as usual, give half proof on the 
pans, make a dent in the center of the buns, and fill dent with 
lemon, orange or pineapple cream, or some ready pie filler. 
A medium grade of preserved fruit jam, apple, pineapple, 
raspberry, fig, etc., may also be used for filling. After baking 
a dot of icing may be dropped on the filling. 

Golden Rolls — Cream Rolls 

Roll dough out % inch thick, 18 inches wide, any length 
desired, brush over with melted butter or lard, sprinkle thickly 
with cinnamon sugar containing some ground nut meats. Roll 
up like cinnamon buns, cut in slices, each piece to weigh about 
2% ounces. Set on well greased pans a little distance apart, 
cut sides down and up, flatten evenly, and let prove. Wash 
with egg and milk, and before baking put a ring of pastry 
cream in the center of each, using a bag and small plain tube. 
Bake in good heat. While warm wash with a syrup. 

Cream Fingers 

Prepare and roll out as for golden rolls, but flatten the roll 
before slicing. Cut in long strips and set on the pans so they 

185 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



touch on the sides when proved. Then wash and prove and 
put a long strip of cream in the center. Bake and brush with 
syrup, or ice when baked. 

Twisted Cream Roll 

Roll dough out as for golden rolls, brush over with butter, 
dust with sugar, fold in three, flatten and cut in strips to 
weigh 2 to 2 1 / 4i ounces. Twist each strip into a string and 
form into a snail or spiral on the pan, flatten lightly, let prove, 
egg wash and fill a dot of cream in the center, and bake. Cover 
cream with icing when baked. 

Crescent Rolls 

Roll out and cut dough in strips as for twisted cream rolls, 
flatten and cut in strips 5 inches long, 1 inch wide. Make a 
few cuts, forming scallops on one side, and set on pans in 
crescent shape. Let prove, egg wash, and ice when baked. 

Another way is to make crescents by rounding up single 
pieces, pin out into ovals, wash with butter and roll up in 
crescents, let prove, wash and bake; ice when baked. 

ZWIEBACK 

For plain zwieback take standard dough No. 1 or No. 2, let 
get well ready, break in small 3 /2-ounce pieces and make in small 
finger shapes, about 3 inches long. Set closely together so as 
to form a long roll the length of the pan. Give good proof 
and bake. Let stand for one day or night, then cut and put 
on pans and toast to a nice brown. Another way is to form 
long narrow loaves from the dough, flatten slightly, prove and 
bake, and then toast well on both sides. 

Hamburg Zwieback 

Use a very soft dough containing eggs, round up in small 
balls, give good proof, and bake in good heat. Let cool well, 
then slice through center with a sharp knife. Set on pans 
and dry-toast in a cool oven. Set tops and bottoms together 
and put away. 

Vienna Zwieback 

Form in long fingers, let prove and bake singly, split and 
toast dry. 

186 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Hungarian or Pressburg Zwieback 

Form in long fingers, set on pans singly, prove and bake. 
The next day cut, not sideways, but through the top longways. 
Make a meringue of 5 egg whites and 1 pound sugar, cover 
the round side of each half with this meringue, and dip in 
chopped almonds. Set on tins, meringue side up, and toast 
slowly. Another variety of zwieback is covered with maca- 
roon paste and dried in a cool oven. 

Anise Zwieback — Almond Zwieback 

A variety of zwieback or toast is made from the regular 
sponge cake mixtures. These are baked in long narrow tins 
or in paper-lined frames about 3 inches wide, IV2 inches high, 
as long as the pan. Let cool when baked, and toast like other 
zwieback. 

Take 1 pound sugar, 8 whole eggs, 4 yolks, V2 ounce anise, 
1 pound cake flour. Beat up warm and beat cool, bake as 
directed. For almond zwieback add about 6 ounces shredded 
almonds when mixing in the flour. 

In the larger factories the zwieback is toasted on wire 
trays, which allows the heat to penetrate uniformly. 

COFFEECAKES 

Cinnamon Streusel Coffeecake 

Use sweet dough, scale off in 12- to 16-ounce pieces, round 
up and let prove half, then roll into a square ; set four cakes in 
a pan 18x25x1, brush over with melted butter, then sprinkle 
with cinnamon sugar or streusel. Let prove up well and bake 
in a good heat. 

Fruit Cakes — Fresh or Canned Fruit 

Apples, peaches, plums, cherries and blueberries are made 
into large and small cakes. For fruit cakes the dough is rolled 
out about % inch in thickness, given a little proof, then the 
fruit is laid on. Apples are peeled, cored and cut in even slices ; 
peaches and plums are stoned and put on in halves; cherries 
and berries are spread on whole, sugar is added and the cakes 
are given some more proof and then baked in a good heat. The 
fruit cake may be baked in a large pan and cut in pieces when 

187 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



done. Square and round small tins are also used. Fresh 
apples bake more satisfactorily if covered with a greased 
paper; this keeps in the steam and cooks them better. 

Cheese Cake 

Roll out 214 pounds of coffeecake dough to cover a pan 
18x25x1, set in a wood frame 2 inches high. 

Cream together 114 pounds sugar, 10 ounces butter, add 
12 yolks of eggs. Rub through a sieve 5% pounds cottage 
cheese, mix with sugar and butter cream, add 8 ounces of 
cornstarch, a little salt and mace, then 1 quart fresh milk. 
Lastly draw in the 12 beaten egg whites. Fill this into the 
frame and bake in good heat — 375 degrees. 

Round Coffeecake — Raisin Coffeecake 

Add some raisins to plain dough, scale pieces 12 to 16 
ounces, round up and set on pans to prove. When nearly ready 
give three straight cuts, wash with milk or egg wash, and bake 
in moderate oven; ice when baked. Chopped citron and a 
few almonds improve this cake. 

Twisted Rings 

These may be made from the rolled-in doughs, also from 
the plain dough, and in different sizes to suit the price. Take 
a piece of dough from 8 to 16 ounces in weight, roll out and 
divide in three even strips ; form the strips into a braid, plait 
evenly, and gain ends nicely together to form a ring. Set on 
pans, allow to prove, and wash over with a good yolk of egg 
wash. Sprinkle with shredded almonds and bake. 

Filled Rings— Stollen— Torten 

Use rich, plain sweet dough, or yeast-raised pastry of any 
kind. Take a long, square piece of dough about 14 inch thick, 
to weigh from 8 to 16 ounces. Roll out to form a long strip, 
from 5 to 6 inches wide and 10 to 12 inches long. For high- 
grade goods use the rich nut fillings, poppy seed filling, and 
plain filling for others, or simply brush thickly with melted 
butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar containing nuts. 
Spread the filling over the rolled out dough, then roll up long- 
ways, and form in a ring, joining the ends nicely. 

188 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



For stollen or nut rolls roll dough from narrow side and 
slightly close the ends in loaf shape, and set on pans ; or fold 
twice from each side and form in shape of stollen and set on 
pans. 

For torten use the rich Swedish or Danish pastry dough, 
roll out and fold in stollen shape, use the rich almond fillings, 
and set in round shape with pointed ends in tins. 

Filled rings may be cut when partly proved around the 
center, giving a plain cut or using the scissors for a zig-zag 
cut, crown fashion. Stollen are given a straight cut along 
the center about half through, so they do not fall apart. The 
cakes should be washed -with a rich egg wash before baking 
and sprinkled with chopped almonds, dusted with sugar when 
baked, or iced when baked and a few chopped nuts or browned 
almonds sprinkled on while the icing is soft. The torte may 
be cut around the center, washed and sprinkled thickly with 
shredded almonds, baked in moderate oven. 

Pretzels — Fruit and Nut Rolls 

Cut rolled-out pastry dough in long, narrow strips, fill with 
nut or almond filling or use a good raspberry jam or other 
fruit filling, fold in two or three folds, pull out and form in 
pretzel shape or twisted ring shapes on pan. Let rise, egg 
wash, and cover with streusel or with chopped nuts. 

Fruit Roll— Jam Roll— Nut Roll 

Proceed as for pretzels and fold filling in the center. Bake 
in large long tins or on pans, or make in small narrow strips 
to divide in pieces to set on pans. Let rise, egg wash and bake. 
Ice when baked and sprinkle a few chopped browned almonds 
on top. 

Pecan Butter Rolls — Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Roll out good plain coffecake dough into a sheet *4 mcn 
thick, 12 inches wide, as long as desired. Brush over thickly 
with melted butter and cover with a good layer of cinnamon 
sugar containing chopped nuts. Roll up into a long roll, not 
too tightly, cut in pieces to weigh about 214 ounces each. Set 
the pieces in a prepared round or square pan with IV2 inch 

189 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



high rim, six, seven, or eight pieces in one pan — one piece in 
the center, the others around it. 

The pans must be prepared as follows: Take soft butter 
(not melted) and brush the pans very thickly on bottom and 
sides with the butter. Take brown sugar, sift it well, and 
fill in the buttered pans, shaking out the surplus which does 
not stick to the butter. Set the cut rolls in the pan and let 
prove, then bake in medium heat. The baking requires care. 
Some ovens do not bake evenly; move the pans if this is the 
case, so the sugar melts and browns evenly. Turn out of the 
pans as soon as taken from the oven bottom up. The sugar 
and butter form an appetizing light brown caramel. Some 
bakeries use a 9-inch pan and set in eight rolls to weigh 114 
pounds. The baked rolls are iced lightly. They sell for 40 
cents a pan. 

Swedish Rolls 

Use the Swedish pastry dough given, roll out twice as long 
as wide, 14 inch thick, sprinkle with cinnamon sugar and 
chopped nuts. Give only a single folding. Roll out into y 3 - 
inch-thick sheet. Cut in strips and in squares of about 3 
inches. Fold corners to center and press down in center, set 
on pans, twenty-five to thirty rolls on pan 18x25 inches; egg 
wash at once, put a dot of pastry cream in the center. Let 
prove in not too warm shop temperature and bake in a good 
oven. When baked put a little vanilla icing on cream in center. 
These rolls sell for 35 to 40 cents per dozen — a good seller. 

Larger pieces may be made in the form of twists, pretzels 
and rings. The dough may be made richer by rolling in more 
butter. 

SWEDISH, DANISH OR FRENCH PASTRIES 

Use either dough for the following pastries. All of these 
cakes should be made of a cool dough, as directed in the open- 
ing chapter, worked up quickly in cool place and proved in 
moderate temperature. Doughs may be made and kept in 
the refrigerator and worked up as required. 

Turnovers — Rissoles 

Roll dough out into a large sheet, cut in 3- or 4-inch 
squares, wash edges, and fill some good fruit jam in center. 

190 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Fold in the jam triangle or envelope fashion, press down the 
sides to inclose the fruit. Let prove and egg wash, sprinkle 
with chopped almonds, and bake. Decorate with a little icing 
when cool. 

Crescents — Turkish Rolls 

Roll out and cut paste in 3Vk-inch-wide strips, cut each 
strip in triangles. Make a small cut on one side only, half 
through the paste, and fill some soft almond filling in the cut. 
Then roll in giving two turns, set on pans in crescent shape, 
let prove, egg wash and bake. Ice when baked. 

Twists, Scrolls and Snails 

Roll dough out in a thin sheet, from 18 to 24 inches wide, 
any length desired, spread with a good cream or almond filling, 
fold in three to make a flat strip, roll slightly thinner, and cut 
in 1-inch strips of a size to sell pieces at 15 cents or 10 cents 
each. The strips may be made into a variety of shapes, first 
giving a twist to the strip to inclose the filling better; then 
form in rings, spirals or snails, pretzels, crescents, scrolls or 
other shapes, set on the pans, give medium proof, wash with 
a good yolk of egg wash. Before baking a dot of fruit jam, 
cream or almond filling may be put in the center, and when 
baked the goods may be made to look better by brushing with 
a glacing of diluted apricot or other fruit jam, applied hot 
with a brush, using a dot of varicolored and flavored icing for 
further decoration. 

Special large pieces may be made in the same fashion as 
used for making fruit rolls, nut rolls, rings and twisted rolls, 
using a firm fruit and nut filling such as given in Fillings for 
Yeast-Raised Goods, as follows: 

Filled Fruit Ring 

Roll iy 2 pounds pastry dough out into a square of 18 inches, 
cut in 6-inch-wide strips. Use a firm fruit and nut filling, roll 
in long strips, place one on each piece of dough and roll in 
nicely. Plait the three strips together and form into a ring, 
or shape into a twist or crescent. Set on pan to prove, wash 
with egg* and bake. Finish by glacing with fruit jam, or ice 
with a good fondant, and sprinkle with sliced almonds or other 

191 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



browned chopped nuts. Quite a good many other shapes may 
be devised, and by using the many kinds of fruit and cream 
fillings a practical baker can produce a very large variety of 
pastries. 

FRIED CAKES AND YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS 

In the making of fried cakes, correct temperature of fats 
used for frying is of the most importance. The different fats 
require this, and some kinds of fried goods also require 
changes of temperature to make them perfect. If cakes are 
fried too slowly they absorb too much of the fat, and if the 
temperature is too high the crust forms too quickly and the 
cakes stay too small, do not expand as they should, and take 
color too quickly. The temperature must be right to give the 
cakes time to spread and fry without absorbing too much fat. 
When fats must be heated to the smoke point, which means 
the burning or decomposition of the fat, the fat becomes dark 
and quickly decomposes. By using a thermometer to ascertain 
the proper temperature this may be avoided. 

Lards used for frying are more or less refined. Some of 
them smoke at 365 degrees, refined lard at 380 to 385 degrees. 
Highly refined vegetable fats and oils may be heated to 400 
degrees before reaching the smoke point. Fried cakes to be 
right should have a dry and tender crust, nicely browned and 
of uniform color. A rich mixture requires a lower temperature 
in frying than a poorer mixture. French crullers which contain 
a large amount of eggs require slower frying to obtain a very 
crisp crust, because these cakes soften very easily if fried 
quickly. Jelly balls are very thick and take more time to fry 
in a slower heat, and other yeast-raised goods also require 
less heat in frying than cakes raised with chemicals. Some 
cakes, such as strips, which are immersed entirely and fried 
under the fat, require a higher temperature. 

Some baking powders work faster in the mixtures, and 
if the cakes are standing on the screens too long or in a warm 
place the cakes rise on the screens or in the box and absorb 
too much grease in frying. This is also true of yeast-raised 
goods. If given too much proof they become too light and 
take up too much fat in frying. Since acid phosphates are 
used in the place of cream of tartar many bakers prefer them 

192 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



for hand-made fried cakes, because phosphate powders do not 
work out on the bench, requiring heat before they act in the 
dough. For machine mixtures, a quick acting baking pow- 
der, or soda and cream of tartar, is preferred and more desir- 
able than a slow-acting phosphate powder because the method 
of frying demands quick expansion in the fat. 

Mixing of Fried Cakes 

Large batches may be partly mixed in the cake machine, 
creaming sugar, shortening and eggs, adding the milk and 
mixing thoroughly; the soda may be added to milk. Flour 
and baking powder or cream of tartar are best sifted together 
in a bowl, and the creamed sugar, shortening and milk mixed 
in by hand. The machine is apt to toughen mixture, which 
is undesirable. A short soft cake flour is best to use for fried 
cakes and more or less milk must be used to produce the 
proper consistency according to strength of flour. 

Frying of Cakes 

In frying cakes a constant consumption of fat takes place 
and it is best to keep some melted fat handy for replenishing 
the tank. Where gas is used as fuel to heat the fat, the tem- 
perature of fat may be regulated easily, and when using other 
fuel, a little cold fat may be added to prevent overheating of 
the fat in the tank. 

To test the absorption of the different fats, weigh the fat 
before and after frying, and to find the absorption of the 
fried cakes by the dozen, weigh a dozen of the cakes before 
frying, and again after frying. The weight gained will very 
closely represent the absorption. 

Sugaring Fried Cakes 

Fried cakes should be given time to cool before they are 
rolled in sugar, otherwise they take up too much. The fried 
cakes are sold plain for a lower price, and the sugared variety 
for a higher price. Yeast-raised fried cakes are rolled in 
granulated sugar, t© which some bakers add a dash of cinna- 
mon for flavor. Icing sugar is used for the baking powder 
cakes, and many bakers prefer to add from 2 to 4 ounces 
cornstarch to 5 pounds of icing sugar, sifting it well together. 
This prevents the soaking of sugar and less is required. 

193 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



HANDMADE FRIED CAKES AND CRULLERS 

Both cakes are made from the same formulas, and where 
large quantities are turned out the round fried cakes are first 
made from the mixture. The dough is rolled out and the 
cakes are cut ; then the scraps are worked up for the twisted 
crullers, because the crullers can stand a toughened dough 
better, while the scraps if worked over and rolled out for the 
round cakes make a toughened dough, so that the cakes draw 
up and stay small in frying. 

No. 1 — 1 pound 2 ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 4 eggs, 

4 pounds cake flour, 1 quart milk, V2 ounce soda, 1 ounce acid 
phosphate, % ounce salt, flavor of mace and lemon, or vanilla. 

No. 2 — 3 pounds sugar, 18 ounces lard, IV2 ounces salt, 
6 eggs, 3 quarts milk, 2 ounces soda, 12 pounds cake flour 
sifted with 4 ounces cream of tartar, flavor of mace or cinna- 
mon extract. 

Buttermilk Fried Cakes 

2 pounds sugar, % pound lard, % ounce salt, 5 eggs, 2 
quarts buttermilk, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce soda, 
flavor of mace, about 7% pounds flour. Cream sugar, short- 
ening and eggs, add milk, soda and flour sifted with acid, and 
mix smooth without overmixing. 

1 quart milk with other ingredients makes from 9 to 10 
dozen of fried cakes. For crullers use trimmings, or roll 
out and cut in strips, about 4 inches long, one inch wide, twist 
and set on screens, and fry under fat, or turn like the round 
cakes. 

Strips or Buttermilk Crullers 

Cream together 5 pounds sugar, 1 pound lard, % ounce 
soda, 1 pint eggs, IV2 ounces salt, flavor of mace or vanilla, add 

5 quarts buttermilk, 16 to 17 pounds flour sifted with V2 pound 
baking powder. Mix as usual and use for strips, crullers or 
round fried cakes. 

MACHINE DROPPED FRIED CAKES 

6 pounds sugar, 1 pound shortening, 1 quart yolks, 5 x /2 
quarts milk, 3 ounces soda, 2 ounces salt, 20 pounds soft cake 
flour, 6 ounces cream of tartar, 1 ounce mace. Mix should 

194 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



make 40 dozen. The mixture should be made from Cold ingre- 
dients. Have the grease hot for frying as soon as the mixture 
is made. Do not set mixture near the hot stove and do not 
let the dough stand. Flour absorbing more than 6 quarts 
milk to 20 pounds flour is too strong. Egg whites are too 
binding, yolks are preferable. 

YEAST-RAISED DOUGHNUTS AND JELLY BALLS 

Use the sweet dough recipes given. Roll out the ready 
dough, cut out with doughnut cutter. Set in cloth lined or 
dusted boxes or on screens, let double in size, and fry as usual. 
For jelly balls scale pieces 3Vk to 3% pounds for divider, or 
make pieces weighing IV2 to 1% ounces, round up on bench, 
give a little proof, flatten and set in boxes or on screens, let 
double in size and fry slowly till done. When cold fill with 
jelly, using the cream puff pump or filler. When using no 
machine, put a little jelly in center of the flattened pieces on 
the bench, pinch dough up over the jelly and set to prove, then 
fry. These cakes are finished with a dot of icing when done. 

Vienna Fried Cake or Bismarcks 

Use a rich coffee-cake dough, roll out % inch thick, cut out 
rounds with plain cutter, fill half the pieces with good fruit 
jam, cover with other piece, flatten and cut again with same 
cutter. Prove and fry like jelly balls. Roll in cinnamon 
sugar or ice with vanilla icing. 

French Fried Cakes 

Use special paste given in chapter on pastes, made like 
the cream puff paste, or use mixture for cream buns. Mix- 
ture must be slightly firmer than for cream puffs. Run out 
with bag and large star tube in rings 2 inches in diameter on 
stiff sheets of greased paper. Turn over on paper in the hot 
grease, which should not be quite as hot as for plain fried 
cakes. The cakes come off the paper easily. Then turn cakes 
over and turn several times, to fry them very crisp. Instead 
of paper a white tin pan may be used, made with a square 
handle on two sides, about 4 inches wide and high. The pan 
is turned bottom up to rest on the handle, the bottom is 
greased and dusted with flour, and the rings are dressed on 

195 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the bottom. To fry, the pan is turned over into the hot fat, 
holding it by the handles, the cakes drop off when immersed. 
This method expedites the frying. French fried cakes are 
frosted with vanilla icing when cold. 

FRIED SPRING WAFFLES 

No. 1 — Cream together V2 pound sugar, % pound butter, 
6 eggs, flavor of mace or cinnamon, add about 1 pint or more 
milk and 2 pounds cake flour to make a smooth batter. 

No. 2 — Beat 7 .egg whites stiff, mix 7 yolks, 2 ounces sugar, 
1 pint milk, 1*4 pounds flour to a smooth batter, draw in the 
beaten egg whites, and add flavor. 

The irons should be put in the hot fat before dipping them 
in the cake batter. Dip the hot iron in the batter close to the 
edge, but not above, and put in the hot grease again, immers- 
ing entirely. Fry to a nice color. The waffles will come off 
easily when done by knocking on the iron. 

ROMAN CASES, TIMBALES OR FRIED CASES 

No. 1 — 1 pound flour, 4 ounces cornstarch, 4 eggs, 1 pint 
milk, a pinch of salt. 

No. 2 — 1 pound soft flour, 4 eggs, 1 ounce sugar, 1 pint 
milk, salt. Mix into a smooth batter. Special irons are used 
for baking. These fried cases may be used in the place of 
patty shells, and without sugar for creamed vegetables, oys- 
ters, creamed chicken, and other meats ordinarily filled into 
patty shells. 

Storks' Nests 

These fried cakes are made in several ways. A special 
basket shape is made of wire, about 5 inches round and deep. 
Two of these baskets are fastened together on one side with 
hinge, so they turn and open; two long handles are put on. 
The cake mixture is cut into thin ribbons, which are laid in 
one basket nest fashion, the other basket is turned over the 
strips, and the whole immersed in the hot fat. When partly 
fried it is turned out and the frying finished. The old method 
is to have wide rings to set in the hot fat, and the dough is 
laid in the rings to fry. 

196 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Mix 8 whole eggs, 4 yolks, 8 ounces sugar together, add 
y 8 ounce ammonia and sufficient flour to make a firm dough 
which may be rolled out thin. Round up iy2-ounce pieces, 
roll in thin ovals. Now take the pastry jigger and make 5 to 
6 cuts, not cutting to edge, so the strips hold together; lift 
carefully and lay in nest shape in the rings set in the hot 
fat, and fry crisp. Dust with cinnamon sugar. 



197 



XII. TEA BISCUIT, SCONES 
MUFFINS ETC. 



TEA BISCUIT 
With Baking Powder 

No. 1 — Rub 6 ounces butter in 4 pounds cake flour, add 
4 ounces baking powder, 2 ounces sugar, % ounce salt, mix 
together with 1 quart milk. 

No. 2 — 5 pounds cake flour, 10 ounces lard, 1 ounce salt, 
2 ounces sugar, 3 pints milk, 1 ounce soda, 2 ounces phosphate 
powder or cream of tartar. 

Sift sugar, salt and acid into the flour, then rub in lard, 
add milk with soda, and mix well. Roll out % inch thick and 
cut with 2 1 /2-inch cutter. Set close together on pans, wash 
with yolk of egg wash, let rest a few minutes before baking, 
bake in 400 degrees. 

Yeast-Raised Tea Cakes or Biscuits 

5 pints half milk, half water, 5 ounces yeast, % pound 
sugar, % pound butter and lard, 1 ounce salt, about 9 pounds 
bread flour. Make a warm straight dough with ingredients 
at about 95 degrees. Let rise up fully once, work down and 
let come up half, work over again. Scale in 6- to 8-ounce 
pieces, round up, flatten lightly and set on lightly greased tins 
in well greased rings. Prove in moist prover and bake in good 
heat. IV2 to 2 pounds sultanas, or part currants may be. used 
for fruit tea cakes. 

SCONES 

American Sultana Scones 

7!/2 pounds cake flour, 15 ounces sugar, 15 ounces lard, 5 
ounces phosphate powder, or cream of tartar, 2% ounces 
soda, !/2 ounce salt, 2 quarts milk, 1 pound seedless raisins. 

Method of mixing: Sift flour with acid and soda, rub in 
the shortening, dissolve sugar in the milk. Mix dough well — 
it should not be soft. Scale 10-ounce pieces, round up tight, 

198 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



roll out about % inch thick. Cut in four, set on pans *4 inch 
apart, wash with strong yolk wash on top, carefully, so wash 
does not run down on the cut side. Bake in 400 to 425 degrees. 

English Sultana Scones 

8 pounds cake flour, 5 ounces cream of tartar, 2 ounces 
soda, 1 pound sugar, 1 pound lard, 1 pound sultanas, 5 pints 
milk and water. Mix like American scone, making a softer 
dough, but working it well to toughen. Scale in 10- to 12-ounce 
pieces, round up well, but do not roll them quite as thin (about 
% inch thick). Now cut in four with a sharp knife and set 
close enough so the cuts meet on the bottom lightly when 
baked. Egg wash carefully, so the cut side shows up white 
when baked. Bake in good heat. 

Scotch Scones or Irish Sodas 

14 pounds winter wheat flour, 3% ounces cream of tartar 
(or cream powder), Zy% ounces baking soda, 4 ounces salt, 
10 V2 pounds buttermilk. Mix lightly without toughening mix. 
Scale 2-pound pieces, pin out rounds about 1 inch thick, cut 
in four and bake at once on hot plate. The plate should be 
just hot enough to bake the scone without burning. When 
scone is baked on one side it is carefully turned and baked on 
the other side. Another variety is made by adding a pound 
of commeal, leaving out a pound of the flour. 

FANCY SCONES 

Self-Raising Flour for Fancy Scones 

24 pounds soft cake flour, 12 ounces cream of tartar, 6 
ounces soda. This flour is well mixed and kept on hand. 

Cream Scones 

Take 6 pounds of self-raising flour, 1 pound sugar, IV2 
pounds butter and lard, about 2 quarts sweet or butter milk. 
Mix into a smooth dough. Scale in 5- to 6-ounce pieces and 
round up, pin out and cut in three or four pieces, egg wash 
twice, let stand a little, and bake in hot oven. The scones may 
be turned when half done, on the pan, and finish baking. 

199 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Tea Scone 

A small tea scone is made from the same mixture with or 
without adding eggs. Pieces of dough iy 2 to 2 ounces are 
rounded up and pinned out to 2i/ 2 to 3 inches in diameter, put 
on clean tins, washed with egg f pressed down in center and 
baked. When partly done they are turned over on the tins 
and the baking finished. 

Fancy Sultana Scone 

Take to 6 pounds of self-raising flour, % pound butter, % 
pound sugar, % pound sultanas, 4 to 6 eggs, and mix with 
about 3V2 pints buttermilk into a smooth dough. Scale in 
12-ounce pieces, round up, pin out and cut in 4 pieces. A 
similar large scone is made in one round only, cutting partly 
through and baking without turning. 

ENGLISH MUFFINS 

Take 6 pounds medium strong cake flour, sift with 1 ounce 
baking soda. Make this into a soft sponge with about 5 pints 
water and 3 ounces yeast at 95 degrees Fahr. Cover and let 
rise and drop again. Stir the sponge down and let rise for 
20 to 30 minutes. While the sponge is rising again, get ready 
the hot plate and grease the rings. The rings used are from 
2>y% to 4 inches in diameter and about % inch deep. The grid- 
dle should be perfectly clean, and should not require any 
greasing. Dissolve IV2 ounces salt and 1% ounces cream of 
tartar in V2 pint of milk and stir well into the sponge. It is 
now ready for baking. A small dipper which holds just 
enough batter to fill one ring about half full is best to use. 
Regulate the batter with milk to proper consistency, according 
to strength of flour. If batter is too thick the muffin loses 
gloss; if batter is too thin it is likely to run through under 
the rings. Do not stir batter much after cream of tartar is 
added, or muffins are apt to be heavy. Place the rings on the 
griddle in rows and fill out; when batter in the rings is cov- 
ered with holes lift off the ring and turn the muffin over on 
the other side. Have some space left on the griddle, so the 
muffins can be set on one side, to keep track of the first ones 
baked. The muffins should not be overbaked — this would make 
them tough. 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



A similar muffin or crumpet is made without soda or 
cream of tartar, making a firmer sponge by taking. 3 Vk pints 
water and milk, 2 ounces yeast, 5 pounds soft winter wheat 
flour. Give the same treatment as for muffins. Let rise and 
drop, stir down, add 1 ounce salt and let rise again. Prepare 
some boxes or pans by sifting on flour 2 inches deep. Make 
impressions a little distance apart in the flour with the bottom 
of a cup. Fill them with some of the dough to weigh about 
2V2 ounces by dropping it out like drop cake — by squeezing 
the dough out over the thumb and forefinger and cutting it 
off with the forefinger of the other hand. Let stand covered 
until proved, then lift carefully and set on the hot griddle. 
Let color slightly, then turn over on other side. Brush off 
the flour when baked. These muffins should be about 3 inches 
in diameter and nearly 2 inches thick when baked. 

BUNS— SELF-RAISING FLOUR FOR BUNS 

24 pounds soft winter wheat flour, 4 ounces soda, 8 ounces 
cream of tartar or phosphate powder. Mix and use as di- 
rected. 

Raspberry or Jelly Buns 

Cream 1 pound sugar, 12 ounces butter and lard, add 8 
eggs and about 1 pint milk, or more to make a smooth dough, 
with 3 pounds of the self-raising flour. Mold up round in 
2-ounce pieces, flatten out, and put in the center of each a 
little jam. Pull over the sides to enclose the jam, turn over 
and wash with egg, dust with sugar and cut crosswise, so 
that the jam shows when baked. Pan and bake in good 
heat. 

Lemon Buns 

These may be made in the same manner, using lemon 
jelly. A more simple method is to round up and dip the 
buns in granulated sugar, put on the pans, then make an im- 
pression in the center of each bun and fill the cavity with 
some jam or jelly before baking. 

Cocoanut, Sultana and Rice Buns 

For cocoanut buns mold round, wash and lay in coarse 
desiccated cocoanut, dust with sugar and bake. For sultana 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



buns, add about 8 ounces sultanas to mixture, mold round, 
wash and flatten, sprinkle a few chopped almonds and sugar in 
center, and bake. 

For rice buns add 4 ounces ground rice to paste, make up 
in ovals or rounds, dust with sugar and bake. 

A variety of buns may be made by adding finely chopped 
candied lemon, or orange or citron peel. Almonds or peanuts 
make another variety. Streusel, chopped almonds or roasted 
chopped peanuts may be Used on top. Less eggs may be used 
for low priced goods. 

Bridge Buns, Bath Buns, Brooklyn Bridge Buns 

1 pound sugar, y 2 pound butter, 1 to 4 eggs, 1 ounce soda, 
3 pounds cake flour, 2 ounces cream of tartar, 1 quart milk, or 
sufficient to make a soft mixture. Add from 1 to IV2 pounds 
mixed fruit, flavor with lemon or mace. Drop out like drop 
cakes on lightly greased pans, egg wash. Leave plain or 
sprinkle with crushed loaf sugar and chopped almonds. Bake 
in good heat. 



202 



XIII. ICINGS AND FILLINGS 



In cake bakeries it is the' custom to prepare a number of 
stock icings, sufficient for one or more days, and from these 
icings a number of other combination icings and fillings may 
be made by adding various flavors and colors, crushed or finely 
cut fruit, nut meats and fruit juices. Some of these icings 
keep well for several days ; others are made up fresh daily to 
be in the best condition. All icings may be mixed by hand in 
small quantities, but the cake machine is almost indispensable 
for making it up in large quantities, and marshmallow filling 
cannot be beaten perfectly by hand. The machines produce 
a better quality, besides saving labor and time. 

Economies are necessary, even in the making of icings and 
fillings, and goods of wholesome quality can be made up by 
using albumen, gelatin or gum solutions in the place of fresh 
egg whites. There are a number of icing powders in the mar- 
ket which may be used with success. 

To replace egg whites in icing, egg albumen is used in the 
proportion of 4 ounces to 1 quart of water, in combination with 
gum arabic or gum tragacanth ; 3 ounces albumen and 1 ounce 
gum is used for 1 quart of water. The gum produces a better 
gloss. Some bakers use a gum solution of IV2 ounces gum to 
1 quart water; some others a solution of 5 ounces albumen 
and 3 ounces gelatin dissolved in 3 pints of water, to replace 
fresh egg whites. This is also used in the place of eggs, with 
some coloring added in small cake mixtures that need a binder, 
such as cookies and low-priced cakes. 

Gelatin frosting is made by dissolving 2 ounces of gelatin 
in 1 quart of water; let it soak well, then boil and strain. A 
little cream of tartar or a pinch of alum added will improve 
this solution, which will form a jelly when cold. Egg icings 
and gum or gelatin icings are improved by adding some cream 
of tartar or lemon juice for whitening and flavoring, but all 
these icings dry out more or less, depending on the humidity 
of the atmosphere. To keep icings soft, glycerin, butter, or 
neutral fats are added in small quantities. Glycerin and short- 

203 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



ening are used in proportion of 1 ounce glycerin, or 4 ounces 
of shortening, to 10 pounds of sugar used in the icing. 

STOCK ICINGS 

Fondant icing is the best icing. It has a fine taste, better 
eating qualities, keeps a good gloss, and while it is not as 
quickly and easily made as other plain icings it is preferred 
for good work. As it may be made from granulated sugar, 
it is really less expensive than other icings made from XXXX 
powdered sugar. 

These stock icings may be made up and kept on hand. It 
is well to keep the vessels clean, scraping down the sides after 
taking out a part of the icing. The vessel should be kept 
covered with a damp cloth, or a little water sprinkled on top, 
to prevent the forming of a hard crust. 

Fondant Making 

The proper method is to have a slab such as is used for 
candy making, and a set of square 1 inch bars, two of 3 feet 
long and two of 2 feet long. This forms a square on the slab, 
which is sprinkled with a little water before the boiled sugar 
is poured on, and holds about 18 pounds of fondant. The 
boiled sugar must be poured thin on the slab, so that it cools 
quickly. Candy makers use large circular slabs which are 
cooled with water underneath. This facilitates the work, 
which is done by a machine. Take 12 pounds granulated 
sugar, 2 pounds glucose, or % ounce cream of tartar if no 
glucose is used. Dissolve on the fire by stirring. The sugar 
should be well dissolved before the boiling starts in. While 
the sugar is boiling, wash the sides of kettle down with a wet 
brush to prevent granulation. Take off any scum which arises. 
If no glucose is used, add the cream of tartar when the sugar 
starts boiling. The cover may be kept on the kettle and the 
steam will prevent the sugar from granulating on the sides 
of kettle. Let boil to 240 to 242 degrees, and pour the sugar 
on the wet slab, between the bars. A little water should be 
sprinkled on top to prevent the forming of a crust. Let it 
cool, turn in the sides and work the sugar back and forth with 
the paddle until it forms a white cream. Scrape in the sides, 
let the sugar rest on the slab for half an hour to soften, cover 

204 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



with a damp cloth, then knead with the hands into a smooth 
cream and put away in cans, covered with a damp cloth. Fon- 
dant will keep in good condition for weeks. To use take as 
much as required from stock into a small pan, set in hot water 
and stir until the fondant is melted. Do not melt fondant 
without stirring, and do not heat above 98 to 100 degrees, or 
the icing will set too hard and lose its gloss. Colors and 
flavors may be added while melting the fondant, and it may 
be diluted with a little water, or better, a syrup. If fondant 
icing appears too transparent for some purposes a little white 
egg icing may be added. Melted chocolate in sufficient quan- 
tities can be added for chocolate fondant icing. 

In the bakery where a machine is handy, a nice fondant 
frosting may be made as follows, but care must be taken not 
to make it in too large quantities, as the boiled sugar is apt 
to granulate from the center, being kept to cool in a deep 
kettle: Boil 8 pounds sugar, i/ 2 pound glucose, or *4 ounce 
cream of tartar, with 3 pints water to 235 degrees, pour the 
boiled sugar in large mixing kettle used for machine. Sprinkle 
the inside of kettle with a little water, and after pouring in 
the boiled sugar add some water on top to prevent forming of 
a crust. Set kettle with sugar in large pan or tub of cold 
water, and when cold put kettle in machine and let beat up, 
using the one-arm beater, on slow speed. If granulation does 
not set in readily rub some of the sugar on the sides of the 
kettle with spoon or paddle until it whitens ; stir this part into 
the other sugar and let machine run until a white cream is 
formed. Then transfer in other cans and put away for use. 

Imitation Fondant 

This is quickly made by letting 1 pint water, iy 2 pounds 
sugar come to a boil, adding a little lemon juice or cream of 
tartar. Stir this syrup into sifted icing sugar, of the right 
consistency for dipping or frosting, and use warm. This 
method may be used in an emergency, but is not quite as good 
as the real fondant. 

White Stock Icing 

Put 1 pint egg whites, or dissolved albumen, with 6 pounds 
icing sugar into machine; let run on second speed to make a 

205 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



stiff, white frosting. (This icing at this stage may be used 
for decorating, adding one ounce cream of tartar or the juice 
of one to two lemons, making it so that it may be used for 
piping.) 

Let machine run on slow speed, and add one quart of water 
heated to 150 degrees (hot, but not boiling) ; add sufficient 
icing sugar to make it of the proper stiffness so it may be used 
for frosting layer cakes without running off. For other pur- 
poses more water and sugar may be added. Let machine run 
for 25 to 30 minutes, until icing is nice and light. Flavor and 
color as desired. By adding 10 pounds of fondant to this icing 
it may be greatly improved. 

Albumen and Gum Icing for General Use 

Dissolve 3 ounces albumen in 1 quart of water ; strain and 
add 1 ounce of powdered gum arabic; put in machine with 8 
pounds of granulated sugar and V2 ounce cream of tartar. Let 
it dissolve, then beat up on medium speed for 10 minutes, then 
let machine run on slow speed. Dissolve 2 quarts of corn 
syrup in 1 quart of hot water; add to first mixture; let mix 
and dissolve, then add from 8 to 12 pounds of icing sugar and 
let this beat up light. Flavor and color as desired. 

Chocolate Stock Icing 

1 pound block chocolate (chocolate liquor), 5 pounds icing 
sugar, 3 ounces butter, 1 pint hot water. Cut chocolate in 
small chips; set to melt with the butter on the oven door or 
on top of oven, to melt slowly without burning ; put sugar and 
hot water in machine, let run on slow speed, add the melted 
chocolate and let mix well, to incorporate the chocolate with- 
out overmixing. This icing keeps well for several days. 
Chocolate icing loses its gloss from overheating, it should feel 
just blood warm, or about 98 degrees to-be right. If frosting 
thickens too much, thin with a little water; or better with a 
syrup made by dissolving 3% pounds of granulated sugar in 
1 quart of hot water. This syrup may also be used for a wash 
for some kinds of rolls and buns. 

Caramel Icing 

Melt 5 pounds of light brown or granulated sugar on a 
slow fire, stirring constantly until it assumes a dark brown 

206 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



color. Care should be used so the sugar does not burn too 
much and acquire a bitter taste. When the right color is 
obtained, add 1 quart of water, stir and let boil to dissolve 
the sugar into a syrup, then add 1/2 pound of butter; let melt 
and come to a boil. Put this syrup in machine, adding enough 
icing sugar (while the machine is running on slow speed) to 
make it of the proper stiffness. This icing must be heated on 
the fire and used while warm and not made too soft. A little 
practice will soon teach the right stiffness. If color is too 
dark it may be mixed with white icing or fondant. Combina- 
tions of chocolate and caramel icing with vanilla flavor are 
popular; also the icing may be mixed with ground nut meats 
and used for fillings for special cakes. 

Maple Icing 

The best maple icing is made from pure maple sugar, or 
from half maple sugar, half brown sugar, or granulated sugar. 
Dissolve 12 pounds of broken maple sugar in 3 quarts of water 
on the fire, add 4 ounces of butter ; mix this syrup, while warm, 
in machine with sufficient icing sugar. If the icing is too light, 
color with caramel. Maple flavors may be bought from supply 
firms. 

Water Icing 

Water icing is simply made by mixing icing sugar with 
warm water to the proper consistency, adding flavor as de- 
sired. Water icing is rather heavy, therefore expensive, and 
does not keep its appearance well. For this reason an addition 
of egg whites or marshmallow is an improvement. By adding 
any desired flavor and color, water icing may be used in many 
ways. A water icing may be made up by using a small addi- 
tion of boiled starch and corn syrup or glucose, working it up 
in machine. Dissolve one pound glucose or syrup in 3 pints 
of hot water, and add 5 pounds of granulated sugar; let this 
dissolve well and let come near the boil, put it in the machine, 
add 1 pint of water which has been made into a starch with 
1% ounces of cornstarch, mix well together and then add suffi- 
cient icing sugar, 1/2 ounce cream of tartar and let beat up 
well. Flavor as desired. This icing is used for yeast-raised 
goods in some bakeries. 

207 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Royal Icing 

This icing is used in diluted condition for covering large 
cakes which are to be decorated. It forms a nice gloss cover 
if dried quickly in a warm place. For decorating the icing is 
made as follows: For each pound of sifted icing sugar, take 
about three egg whites and a small pinch of cream of tartar. 
Mix well in a bowl with spatula until the icing stands well 
and can be drawn to a point and keeps its shape. This icing 
should not be too stiff or be stiffened by adding sugar, because 
it is difficult to use for decorating with fine tubes. It needs 
proper beating to make it stand up well; the icing dries 
quickly and should be kept covered with a damp cloth. Do 
not scrape down sides and try to work hardened icing in 
the other icing; it forms lumps and chokes up the tubes. Do 
not let it stand in a warm place. Do not use too much acid; 
it softens the icing, makes it weak. This icing may be colored 
as desired. For chocolate decorating, add melted chocolate or 
cocoa in sufficient quantities. If the icing does not stand up 
well after it has stood some time, it must be rebeaten, adding 
a little egg white to make it work and stand up well ; it is best 
used as soon as it is made. 

Boiled Icing 

2 pounds granulated sugar, V2 pint water, a pinch of cream 
of tartar boiled to 240 degrees, V2 pint of egg whites beaten 
stiff, adding 1 ounce icing sugar. Pour the boiling sugar in 
a thin stream into the beaten whites, beating constantly, add- 
ing flavor as desired. This icing is used in various ways, mixed 
with crushed nut meats or candied fruits. It is used for icing 
as well as for filling for cakes made up family style. From 
% to V2 ounce of dissolved gelatin may be beaten in while 
warm, and it can be used like a marshmallow icing or filling. 

Boiled Chocolate Icing 

Put % pound of chocolate with a scant pint of water on 
the fire and stir until the chocolate is well dissolved, then add 
2% pounds of granulated sugar; mix well and let it boil to 
a strong thread. Take a part and test between the fingers. 
Take off the fire and stir with paddle, rubbing it on the sides 
of vessel until it thickens and a skin forms on top. If mixture 

208 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



is too stiff add a little sugar or water. Use while hot and 
quickly. For dipping or covering, set goods on wire tray, 
and dry on the oven door to produce a good gloss. 

Special Icings 

Quite a number of special icings may be made by using 
the different fruit juices made into a clear syrup and the hot 
syrups mixed with icing sugar to the proper consistency. 
Finely cut French fruits may be added, also figs, dates, or 
chopped nut meats. Lemon and orange icing may be made by 
mixing the finely grated yellow rind and juice with a part of 
water with icing sugar, or in fondant. Black strong coffee may 
be used for coffee icing. 

Burnt Sugar Coloring (Caramel) 

This is made by placing a pound or more of brown or 
granulated sugar in a shallow pan on the fire, let melt and stir 
constantly so it does not burn. When the sugar begins to 
boil it will gradually become a very dark brown — almost black, 
and will rise in the pan. Now add carefully about % pint of 
water or more to the sugar, let boil and dissolve into a dark 
thick syrup, strain and bottle for use. This coloring is used 
to give the proper shade to maple, coffee and other frosting, 
also for an imitation caramel icing. 

COLORS FOR ICINGS 

The most popular colors for icings are white, pink, choco- 
late and a variety of shades of brown. For orange or lemon 
a delicate orange or yellow color is best to use, as strong colors 
are often objectionable. Stronger colors are only permissible 
in special decorations of cake, where they fit in or are specially 
ordered by patrons. Formerly many colors were made by the 
confectioner ; but today it is more practical to buy the factory- 
made colors, which may be bought in all desired shades. 

READY-TO-USE FILLINGS 

I wish here to speak a good word for the ready-made fill- 
ings which may be bought from bakers' supply houses. These 
fillings are made by specialists with the best facilities and 
up-to-date equipment, by men who have made a study of pre- 

209 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



paring this line of goods. Some of them may be bought cheaper 
and better than a baker can make them, considering the time 
and labor it takes to make and keep the goods in the best con- 
dition. The goods are made up in different grades to suit all 
classes of trade, and the baker who wants the very best can 
obtain the higher grade goods at a fair price. There are some 
of the commercial jams and jellies in the market which are 
to be used cold for fillings. These fillings soften and cannot 
stand the baking heat. But there are other jams which are 
prepared to withstand the baking heat without running out. 
The goods should be ordered according to how they are to be 
used, suited for baking, or for a cold filler; and as most of the 
supply firms stand back of their goods, the baker will get the 
right kind. 

Marshmallow Filling 

This filling is one of the most profitable for the baker to 
use, and a filling very popular with the public. If properly 
made it gives bulk, makes a nice and fluffy filling which stands 
up well. One pound of good filling is sufficient to fill from five 
to six two-layer cakes with a half -inch thick layer of marsh- 
mallow, making them look like a three-layer cake. 

One point that must be observed in the use of marshmallow 
is to use it when fresh made. It stands well for almost a day, 
and when used for filling layers and blocks it is best applied 
as soon as it is made. After it stands it sets, and when cold 
stiffens. If worked over or stirred after it is set the air cells 
that produced the lightness are broken; it loses bulk and be- 
comes heavy. If used freshly made and left to set between the 
layer or block cubes, it stands up well and cuts nicely. After 
taking it from the machine the marshmallow stands up nice 
and dry, so that it may be used for decorating, covering and 
fillings for tarts and pies, cream rolls, and many other goods. 
Various flavors may be made up from one batch by dividing 
the batch, ^adding melted chocolate and beating it in the warm 
filling, adding fruit juice flavor and color to another part, or 
adding nut meat and fine-cut preserved fruits. Brown sugar 
or part maple sugar, part brown sugar, may be used for maple 
marshmallow. 

A butter cream filling may be made by adding creamed up 

210 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



or softened butter in proportions from 1/2 to 1 pound to 5 
pounds of filling and beating it in a cold place until it stiffens, 
adding flavor as desired. 

Left-over marshmallow filling may be added to a new 
batch when the new batch is nearly finished and beaten light. 
If a large amount of left-over filling is rebeaten with a new 
batch, it is well to cook the sugar one or two degrees higher 
to obtain the proper consistency. 

Marshmallow Filling with Egg Whites or Albumen 

Twenty pounds granulated sugar; 4 quarts water; 1 ounce 
cream of tartar; 2 quarts egg whites, 2 ounces Jap gelatin; 
or, in place of egg whites, 12 ounces albumen soaked in 1% 
quarts of water over night. Boil sugar, 2 quarts water, 1 
ounce cream of tartar to 240 degrees. Dissolve the Jap gela- 
tin in two quarts of water on the fire. In the meantime beat 
up the egg whites (or dissolved albumen) in the machine. 
When the whites are beaten light, let machine run on medium 
speed and slowly (in a thin stream) pour in the boiling sugar. 
The mixture will go down some at this point, but it will rise 
again. After adding the sugar, add the well-dissolved gela- 
tin, pouring it in slowly, then let the machine run on faster 
speed and beat until it stands up well on the beater. The 
given amount fills one of the large 18 to 20 gallon kettles, the 
largest size used with cake machines. Jap gelatin is pre- 
ferred in this formula. If other gelatin is used, take, 4 
ounces in the given mixture. 

For maple marshmallow use brown sugar or part maple 
sugar as suggested, or use maple extract and caramel coloring. 

Eggless Marshmallow 

No. 1 — Soak and dissolve 5 ounces gelatin and 3 ounces 
powdered gum arabic in 3, quarts of warm water; strain in 
kettle; add 10 pounds of sugar, and stir on the fire without 
boiling (just warming) ; then beat up in cake machine until 
light. Flavor to suit. Keep in cool place well covered. Re- 
warm for use. 

No. 2 — Dissolve 4 ounces of gelatin in 1 quart of water at 
about 150 degrees Fahr. Stir until dissolved. It should not 
cool down below 140 degrees. When perfectly dissolved add 

211 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



5 pounds of powdered sugar or icing sugar and % pound 
warmed glucose or corn syrup. Beat this up in machine 
on fast speed. It will take about 20 minutes, then add 3 ^ 
ounce cream of tartar to whiten and continue beating until 
it stands up nice and light. At this point melted chocolate or 
cocoa may be added sufficient to obtain a nice chocolate flavor. 

SPECIAL BUTTER CREAM FILLINGS— MOCHA CREAMS 
Vienna Butter Cream 

Ten eggs, IV2 pounds sugar, 1 pound unsalted butter. Mix 
and beat eggs on a slow fire until it thickens. Do not let it 
boil. Take off fire and stir cold on ice, or setting kettle in 
cold water. Stir butter to a light cream, then add gradually 
in spoonfuls the egg cream — beating constantly. Flavor 
vanilla or chocolate, coffee, etc. Use this for filling and deco- 
rating. 

New York Mocha Butter Cream 

One-fourth pint egg whites, 3% pounds icing sugar, 1 
pound of unsalted butter, 3 ounces cornstarch. Cream butter 
light with about 1 pound of sugar, adding the starch, then 
gradually work in the egg whites and remainder of sugar 
until nice and light. 

Chocolate Mocha 

One-half pound butter, ±l/ 2 pounds compound lard, 7% 
pounds icing sugar, 5 to 6 yolks, sufficient melted butter; 
chocolate to obtain a good flavor. Chocolate makes a firmer 
cream, and a little milk is required to make it right for deco- 
rating and filling. 

Coffee Mocha 

Add coffee extract and caramel coloring to produce the 
right flavor and shade to butter cream. 

Almond Butter Cream — Almond Mocha 

Add almond extract to plain mocha cream, or cream i/ 2 
pound almond paste with i/ 2 pound of butter, 5 to 6 yolks, add 
2 pounds icing sugar and flavor of lemon or vanilla. Add milk 
sufficient to make it of proper consistency for filling or deco- 
rating. 

212 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Pastry Cream for Filling Layer Cakes and Tarts 

One quart milk, 8 ounces sugar, 1 ounce butter, 3 ounces 
cornstarch, 5 to 10 yolks or whole eggs; flavor as desired. 
Set milk and part of sugar to boil, leaving some cold milk to 
dilute the cornstarch; mix eggs and balance of sugar with 
diluted starch ; beat well together. When milk is near boiling, 
mix a little of the hot milk in starch and egg mixture, add 
this to the boiling milk, stirring constantly until it thickens. 
Take off, turn cream in shallow dishpan, add the butter, stir 
and let cool and add flavor. If the cooked cream stands with- 
out stirring a dry skin forms and the cream sets coarse. If 
stirred several times during cooling this may be prevented. 
By using more or less starch a firmer or softer filling is 
obtained. 

From the above given pastry cream the following fillings 
can be made, 1-quart batches: 

For Lemon or Orange Cream Filling — Add the grated rind 
and juice of one lemon or orange after taking it off the fire, 
and mix thoroughly. 

For Cocoanut Cream Filling— Add 4 ounces freshly grated 
or desiccated cocoanut to any lemon or orange or vanilla 
flavored cream. 

For Almond Cream Filling — Add 3 to 4 ounces browned 
and crushed almonds to vanilla flavored cream. 

For Chocolate Cream Filling — Add 2 ounces grated or 
melted chocolate to warm cream. Crushed nuts or almonds 
may be added to chocolate cream. 

For Coffee or Mocha Filling — Take 1 pint strong black 
coffee and 1 pint milk when cooking the cream; if a darker 
color is desired, add caramel to give the right shade. 

For Special Light Cream Filling — From 5 to 6 egg whites 
beaten light may be added to the cream before taking it off 
the fire, stirring it in quickly without overmixing to preserve 
its lightness, right after the starch and yolk mixture. This 
makes a fine filling for tarts and small goods. 

CUSTARD OR PASTRY CREAM FILLING 

One gallon fresh milk, 1 pound sugar, 8 to 9 ounces corn- 
starch; 10 to 12 whole eggs, vanilla flavor, a pinch of salt. 
This cream is used for an all-around filling for cream puffs, 

213 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



eclairs, and other purposes where a less rich cream answers. 
Set 3V2 quarts of milk on the fire with half the sugar; mix 
starch, remaining sugar, with V2 quart of cold milk, then add 
eggs and mix well. When milk is coming to a boil add the 
starch and egg mixture, stir until it thickens, take off the 
fire, put in shallow dishpan to cool, add salt and when cooled 
add flavor. Stirring the cream now and then while it is cook- 
ing prevents the forming of a skin and makes a smoother 
cream. 

English Lemon Butter 

Fifteen lemons, 20 eggs, 2% pounds sugar, % pound but- 
ter. Grate the yellow rind carefully on the sugar, so as not 
to grate off the white, which is extremely bitter; add the 
strained juice; put in double boiler, add the melted butter 
and stir and let boil until it is of the consistency of preserves. 
Let stand and set for some days before using. This preserve 
is made up in large quantities by British confectioners at a 
time when lemons and eggs are low-priced; it keeps well if 
put in jars. A similar jelly or butter may be made into orange 
butter filling. Take the grated rind and juice of 10 oranges, 
the juice of 5 lemons and proceed as for lemon butter. 

Plain Lemon or Orange Filling 

One quart of water, 1 pound sugar, the grated rind and 
juice of from 3 to 5 lemons (for orange filling the juice and 
grated rind of 3 oranges, juice of 2 lemons), from 5 to 10 
yolks, 3% to 4 ounces cornstarch. Dissolve this starch in 
14 pint of cold water and mix with the yolks. Grate the rind 
on the sugar. Put sugar, water and juice of fruit to boil. 
When it boils add the well-mixed starch and egg yolks and 
stir until it thickens. Take off and stir cool, adding 2 ounces 
of butter. This filling, by using 3 to 3% ounces of starch, 
will make a nice lemon or orange pie or tart filling. Three 
and one-half to 4 ounces starch will make a slightly stiffer 
filling which may be used for layer cake, etc. If used as a 
filling for pies, the previously baked bottoms should be filled 
with the hot mixture; it will set and cut like a custard when 
cold. Varieties may be made from this filling by adding cocoa- 
nut to lemon or orange filling. 

214 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Pineapple Filling 

Take 1 pint of grated pineapple, 1 pint of water, adding 
the grated rind and juice of 1 orange or lemon if desired and 
finish with other ingredients as given. 

Florodora Filling 

Take even parts of pineapple, orange and cocoanut filling. 

Whipped Cream Filling 

A good cream for whipping should contain from 35 to 40 
per cent butter fat, and should be at least 24 hours old. Cream 
not pasteurized gives more volume, beats up better than 
pasteurized cream. Beat the cream in a cold place or set 
kettle in a pan of iced water when beating. Beat slowly at 
the start, and gradually increase the speed. After beating 
the cream so it can be drawn to a point, add for each quart of 
cream 4 ounces of well-sifted powdered sugar and vanilla 
flavor; mix carefully without overmixing and keep in a cool 
place. Whipped cream, if standing for some time, softens, 
milk and sugar gather on the bottom. The sediment may be 
drawn off and the cream rewhipped, adding a few spoonfuls 
of fresh cream or rich plain cream. Do not stir whipped 
cream after the sugar is added, as it causes loss of volume. 

A spoon is best used for filling cream puffs. Cut the puffs 
and fill. For filling charlotte russe or cream rolls, use the 
cream when freshly mixed for same with bag and tube. If 
using the cake machine for beating whipped cream, watch 
closely the point when it thickens, as a slight overbeating 
turns the cream into butter, making it coarse. 

There are some preparations, solutions of gum, which may 
be used with a poorer grade of cream, but it pays to use the 
best grade. If a whipped cream is used at once for filling, a 
small addition of gum powder or powdered gelatin, or ice 
cream powder may be mixed in with the sugar, or beaten in 
before adding the sugar. This prevents the sediment of sugar 
and milk going to the bottom and holds up the cream to a 
better degree. 

In an emergency, if short on whipped cream, a meringue 
may be added to whipped cream. Proceed as follows: Soak 
% ounce gelatin in cold water, press out the water and dissolve 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the gelatin by heating and have ready for use. Beat up 1 
quart of whipped cream as usual, also 1 pint of egg whites 
separately. Gradually beat 8 ounces of sifted powdered sugar 
into the egg whites, and when it stands up well, pour in the 
gelatin in a thin stream, beating constantly; add flavor, and 
mix the meringue carefully into the whipped cream, lightly 
but fully, so as not to destroy the lightness of the cream. 
This mixture sets slightly after standing and is best used 
immediately. Do not stir mixture after adding gelatin and 
meringue. 

HOUSEHOLD FILLINGS 

Special fillings which give cakes a home-like flavor. 

Caramel Filling 

Mix 1 pound of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream; add 1 
ounce bitter chocolate, 1 ounce butter and 2 ounces of molasses. 
Mix and boil to "soft ball" ; pour this boiling mixture on 3 
beaten egg whites, beat cool ; add 4 ounces chopped nuts and 
use between layers of spiced cakes, which may be frosted with 
caramel or with chocolate. 

Camelina Filling 

Mix well together 4 yolks, V2 pound sugar, 2 ounces butter, 
the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges. Boil in double boiler 
until it thickens. Take off and add 2 beaten egg whites and 
4 ounces of finely chopped candied orange and lemon peel. 
Use this filling between layers of white or yellow cake. Frost 
cake with icing made of the grated rind and juice of oranges 
mixed with icing sugar. 

Almond Chantilly Filling 

Mix even parts of whipped cream and meringues with 
blanched, browned and crushed almonds, between white layer 
cakes. Frost with vanilla fondant mixed with chopped 
browned almonds. 

Angel Pistachio Filling 

Add to 1 pound of fresh-made marshmallow 4 ounces of 
finely cut pistachio nuts, or half almonds, half pistachio nuts, 

216 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



flavor with orange flower extract. Use between layers of 
angel cake or white cake, frost cake a delicate light green, 
sprinkle with a few fine-cut pistachios. 

Lady Baltimore Filling 

Make a boiled icing (see boiled icing), mix with finely cut 
pecans and figs, flavor with rose water, use with almond 
flavored or nut flavored white cake as a filling and icing. 

Charleston Filling 

Make a boiled icing with 11/2 pounds brown sugar, % pint 
water mixed into 4 beaten egg whites ; flavor with lemon rind 
and juice. Use with maple-frosted white or yellow cake, or 
chocolate-caramel icing. 

Cairo Filling 

Boil 1% pounds of brown sugar with 1 gill of cream and 
1 gill of black strong coffee to the "soft ball" ; take off the fire 
and beat in 2 ounces of butter. Use this filling between layers 
of spice or chocolate cake, flavored with cinnamon. Frost 
with maple or coffee icing, sprinkled with a few chopped nuts. 

London Filling 

Take 1 pound of blanched almonds, V2 pound of seeded 
raisins, 4 ounces figs, simmer in a light syrup with the juice 
of 1 lemon to a soft filling; add to some boiled icing, and use 
with fondant covered cakes, sprinkled with a few chopped 
nuts. 

Berlin Filling 

Mix even parts of good currant jelly, almond paste, 
browned and crushed filberts into a smooth spreading paste. 
Use between layers of butter sponge cake or rich pound cake 
containing almonds or nuts. Finish top of cakes by spreading 
a thin covering of raspberry jam, and over this a cover of 
marzipan paste. Then frost with fondant and decorate as 
desired. 

Neapolitan Filling 

Use boiled icing or marshmallow, divide in three parts, 
color one part pink, flavor raspberry, color another part a 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



light green, flavor pistachio, leave one part white, flavor 
almond. Fill between thin layers of butter sponge cake or 
other rich layer cake to make a 4-layer cake. Frost top with 
tri-colored icing in stripes, which may also be put on in marble 
fashion. 

Mapleine Filling 

Boil V2 pound of maple syrup with 4 yolks until it thickens ; 
take off, add a spoonful of butter, then beat cold, mix with 
chopped nut meats, flavor with nutmeg. Use with maple- 
frosted cakes. 

Apricotine Filling 

Mix hot apricot jam into some marshmallow or stiff 
meringue, adding a few crushed nuts or almonds. This makes 
a nice filling for all kinds of layers. 

Apple Filling 

Make a nice white apple sauce, let cool and mix with 
whipped cream, flavor cinnamon, in proportion to V2 pint firm 
apple sauce to 1 pint of whipped cream sweetened and flavored. 
This makes a fine filling for apple shortcake as well as layer 
cakes. It may be used for covering the top of cakes, finishing 
it with a lattice of currant jelly or apple jelly. 

Marguerite Filling 

Mix into 1 pint of warm pastry cream, y 2 ounce of melted 
gelatin, add % pound of fine-cut candied fruit, some chopped 
walnuts and crushed macaroons. 

Fruit Fillings with Gelatin 

Simmer fresh or preserved fruit in a light syrup to soften, 
cutting it in small dice. Do not stir soft fruit to preserve the 
shape. Drain off the juice and syrup and add for each pint 
of the syrup 1 ounce of dissolved gelatin. Let the syrup get 
cool and when it thickens pour over the cooled fruit. This 
may be mixed with whipped cream, or the fruit may be used 
singly or in combinations for fillings in cake or in tarts, also 
in combination with nut meats of all kinds. 

All fillings containing whipped cream or gelatin are best 
handled cool and kept in a cool place. 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Crushed Fruit Fillings 

Berries, cherries, peaches, apricots and grated pineapple 
may be made into fillings by adding to each gallon of crushed 
fruit from 6 to 8 pounds of sugar, with a little acid for some 
fruits which contain very little acid. Stir and let boil until 
it falls in flakes from the paddle or skimmer and put away 
for use. For less expensive fillings a part of apple pulp may 
be used with the crushed fruit and boiled down until it jellies. 
Use good cooking apples for this purpose. (See "Fruit Jams 
and Jellies." 



219 



XIV. PIES AND PIE-MAKING 



In the modern pie factory all of the fruit used is prepared 
by cooking. While fresh fruit makes a very good flavored pie, 
for commercial purposes the fresh fruit is too costly to be 
used without adding a filler, unless fresh fruit is plentiful 
and a good price can be obtained. Pies made from fresh fruits 
in season are always in good demand. One large pie bakery 
which preserves fresh fruit in season, having a large cold 
storage plant, simply puts the fruit in packages which are 
frozen solid in the cold storage. The fruit is taken out on 
requisition as needed, and allowed to thaw out for a few 
hours before using. Handled in this manner, the fruits retain 
their flavor to a better degree. Fresh apples are used in some 
bakeries during the time the price is even with the canned 
fruit; if prices rise canned fruit or dried fruit is used. 

PIE FILLERS 

By using a good filler a good full pie can be made that can 
be sold at a profit. Economical bakers use the parings of the 
green fruit to make a filler. The peelings are covered with 
water, and boiled until the juice may be pressed from the 
skins. The extract is then sweetened and thickened with 
cornstarch and boiled clear. This thickener may also be used 
in berry pies as a filler. 

When using canned fruit a better filler is made by straining 
the juice off the fruit, adding sufficient sugar to this juice and 
letting it come to a boil ; add tapioca or starch and let thicken, 
then pour this over the fruit, mix and let cool. A gallon can 
of apples requires about 1*4 pounds sugar, spices, 2 to 2% 
ounces starch, and 1 ounce good butter, to make a good filler. 
This makes a better filler than simply chopping and mixing 
the canned fruit with sugar, spice and starch, and filling it in 
the pies. 

Pie Filler from Ground Tapioca 

To make a good filler use tapioca ground like cornmeal. 
This may be bought from bakers' supply firms. Take 12 

220 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



quarts cold water, 6 pounds sugar, 2 pounds ground tapioca. 
Mix and put kettle on the fire, and stir until the milky appear- 
ance disappears, when the mixture is done. The mixture 
should not boil — only become clear. Take a reasonable amount 
of this filler and use it with canned fruit or fresh fruit. 
Tapioca is almost neutral and without any flavor and does not 
interfere with the delicate flavor of the fruit. 

A similar filler may be made with cornstarch, but corn- 
starch has a flavor that interferes with the fruit flavor and 
often breaks and becomes watery when standing for some time. 

Flavoring of Fruit Pies 

Apple pie, which is the most popular fruit pie, is seasoned 
with cinnamon or nutmeg. Some use allspice. The seasoning 
is often done carelessly, so it happens that no uniformly 
flavored fruit pie is made. Some practical bakers mix the 
sugar used for sweetening the pies with a combination of 
spices to secure an evenly seasoned pie, as follows: To 2 
pounds granulated sugar add 10 ounces cinnamon, 4 ounces 
mace and ground nutmeg, 2 ounces allspice and 1 ounce salt. 
Mix this well, and use sufficient of the spiced sugar to flavor 
by adding it to the prepared fruit, with more plain sugar as 
required. 

Pie Stock from Dried Fruit 

When using evaporated fruit, take the quantity needed for 
a day's work. Pour over it boiling water to sterilize bacteria, 
then wash off with cold water, and soak over night in cold 
water. When using apples figure 1 pound of apples to five 
pies. This will give the number of pounds to be prepared for 
the day's output. It is advisable to chop or grind the dried 
fruit into small pieces, after which it should be allowed to 
soak in cold water for twelve to fourteen hours. To use, drain 
off the surplus water, add sugar and spices, and it is ready for 
the pie. Some ready-made filler may be added. 

Canned Fruits in Pies — Buying Canned Fruit 

All canned fruits contain more or less water or juice. In 
buying canned fruits, the best method is to open samples of 
different brands and grades, weigh the solid contents, com- 

221 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



pare as to quality and price, and select the best. It is better to 
pay a fair price and not look for the cheapest grade. Never 
buy peaches with the peel on for pies as they are very bitter, 
unfit for use. Cheap, inferior grades consist largely of unripe 
or overripe fruit, or the cans contain very little of the fruit 
and plenty of water. 

Many of the canned fruits and even some fresh fruits lack 
flavor and acidity. A little salt added often helps to bring 
out a better flavor, and a little acid added also improves the 
fillings. Citric acid and tartaric acid are derived from fruits, 
and a solution may be made from 1 pound acid crystals dis- 
solved in 1 quart warm water, a little, of which may be added 
to the pie fruit to give the proper snap. The same solution is 
used at soda fountains to season fruit syrups. 

DRIED FRUIT PIES 
Dried Berry Pie with Filler 

Soak and cover 5 pounds evaporated berries in 14 quarts 
cold water. Let come to a boil and cook a few minutes. Mix 
6 pounds sugar with 2 pounds ground tapioca, add to berries, 
and stir until mixture clears, let cool and use. 

Raisin Pie Filling 

Put 6 quarts water, 4 pounds sugar, 10 ounces tapioca on 
the fire, stir until it clears, then add 8 pounds seeded raisins, 
mix and let cool. The addition of the juice of two lemons 
improves this filling. 

Prune Pie 

Wash prunes and soak in cold water. Let boil until soft 
and remove the stones. For each quart of stoned fruit add 
8 ounces sugar, 1 pint water; season with spices, or whole 
stick cinnamon, rind and juice of a lemon. Let come to a 
boil and thicken with IV2 ounces tapioca or starch. Let cool 
and use. 

FRESH BERRY AND OTHER FRUIT PIES 
Gooseberry Pie 

For gooseberry pie the cleaned fruit is best stewed, and if 
the fruit is very high in price, finely chopped apples may be 

222 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



added to the berries, or some filler used. Take 12 ounces 
sugar and % pint water for each pound of berries. Let fruit, 
sugar and water come to a boil, then add from IV2 to 2 ounces 
starch or tapioca, dissolved in cold water; stir and let boil 
clear. 

Cherry Pie 

Mix the pitted cherries with sufficient sugar to sweeten, 
let stand for the juice and sugar to form a syrup, drain off 
the syrup, let come to a boil, adding sufficient thickener dis- 
solved in cold water, let boil clear, and mix with the fruit. 

Blueberry Pie 

For 10 quarts berries take 21/2 quarts water, 6 pounds 
sugar, dissolve and let come to a boil, thicken with about 8 
ounces starch or tapioca, let clear, and mix with the berries. 
Season with a little salt, cinnamon and fruit acid. 

Cranberry Pie 

Take 10 pounds berries, 12 pounds sugar, 2% to 3 quarts 
water. Dissolve 12 ounces starch or tapioca in 2 quarts of 
water and mix with the boiling berries, boil up once and let 
cool. 

Mock Cherry Pie 

Soak 5 pounds seedless raisins over night. Let 5 pounds 
cranberries, 2 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, come to a boil, 
then add the soaked raisins and 6 ounces cornstarch or tapioca ; 
let thicken and cool. 

Rhubarb Pie 

Peel and cut rhubarb in small pieces of uniform size. If 
very young and tender no cooking is required. Add for each 
pound rhubarb 12 ounces sugar, V2 ounce cornstarch, mix and 
let soften, then fill in the pies. 

Or mix 10 pounds rhubarb with 5 pounds sugar, let stand 
to draw the juice overnight, strain off the juice, and set to 
boil, adding about 4 ounces of dissolved starch ; pour over the 
rhubarb and let boil and thicken. Use more sugar when filling 
the pies. Some bakers prefer to mix one-third chopped apples 
with two-thirds of the rhubarb for this pie. 

223 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Rhubarb Preserving 

Peel and cut in pieces, put in fruit jars, and fill with cold 
water; this will keep all winter. To use, drain off the water 
and add sugar and cook like fresh rhubarb. 

Peach and Apricot Pie 

Drain the juice off the canned fruit, and for each gallon 
can add IV2 pounds sugar; let juice and sugar come to a boil, 
then add 4 ounces starch dissolved in half a pint of cold water. 
Mix and let boil until it thickens, then pour over the fruit and 
let cool. A little fruit acid and a drop of bitter almond extract 
improves the flavor. 

Pineapple Pie 

To 1 gallon can grated pineapple add 2 quarts water, 5 
pounds sugar, and let come to a boil. Then add 12 ounces 
tapioca or starch dissolved in 1 quart water, let thicken, and 
take off the fire. Flavor may be improved by adding fruit 
acid and extract of pineapple. 

Pineapple Filling for Open Pies 

To each quart pineapple add 1 quart water, 1% to 2 pounds 
sugar; flavor with juice and grated rind of 2 to 3 lemons or 
oranges. Dissolve 5 ounces cornstarch in a little cold water, 
mix with 8 to 10 yolks, and when sugar and pineapple come 
to a boil stir in the starch and yolks, let thicken, and fill in 
the ready baked bottoms. Finish with meringue. 

Strawberry and Pineapple Pie 

Mix 1 quart of pineapple and IV2 pounds sugar, let come 
near a boil, and add 1 quart or more picked strawberries; 
thicken with 1% to 2 ounces dissolved starch as usual. Fill 
in pie bottoms when cool. Cover pies with a lattice and border, 
egg wash and bake, or bake without washing and sift pow- 
dered sugar over when done. 

MINCE PIE AND MINCEMEATS 

Most all bakers buy their mincemeat from reliable firms 
who make a specialty of putting up mincemeat. There are 
quite a number of very good condensed mincemeats in the 

224 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



market, which are very handy to use in the bakery, saving 
time and labor. Mince pies are made usually with a full cover, 
like apple pies, and lunchrooms make often a specialty of this 
kind of pie and serve the pies hot to their customers. 

Mincemeat 

No. 1 — 15 pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds lean 
boiled beef, 2% pounds suet, 5 pounds seeded raisins, 5 pounds 
currants, 2 pounds candied orange peel, 2 to 3 pounds citron, 
5 lemons — rind and juice, 5 pounds brown sugar, 1/2 gallon 
cider, 5 ounces mixed spices, 2 ounces salt. 

No. 2 — 30 pounds peeled and cored apples, 5 pounds suet, 
5 pounds boiled beef or beef hearts, 10 pounds seedless raisins, 
10 pounds currants, 6 pounds mixed peel — citron, lemon and 
oranges, 15 pounds brown sugar, 3 ounces cinnamon, 1 ounce 
cloves, 2 ounces nutmeg, 3 ounces salt, cider to moisten the 
mixture. 

The peel and cores of the apples may be made into a filler 
instead of using cider. Cover the peelings with plenty of 
water, boil and stir until very soft, then strain off the liquid 
and sweeten with sugar, adding a little fruit acid. Use this 
in the place of cider. Some bakers use some of the low-grade 
pail jelly and mix this with the mincemeat. Dried apples may 
be used to take the place of green apples, and prepared the 
same as pie stock from dried apples. Lemon peel and orange 
peel from the fresh fruit, left over in the making of sherbets 
or fruit ices, may be saved and used instead of buying can- 
died peel; the rinds may be simply boiled tender, changing 
the water a couple of times during boiling, then chopped fine 
before adding, or preserved for use. 

In the mixing of mincemeats the boiled beef and suet, also 
apples and candied peels, are chopped fine. Cider or fruit 
juice may be mixed with the sugar and heated to dissolve and 
sterilize the cider, then it may be mixed with the dry ingredi- 
ents, and let stand in a cold place for at least one week before 
using. 

Mock Mince Pie 

Stew raisins same as for raisin pie, add sufficient chopped 
apples, raisins, peel and spices, add cider or apple juice with 
sugar to sweeten, and bake like ordinary mince pie. 

225 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



PUMPKIN AND SQUASH PIES 

No. 1 — 1 gallon can pumpkin, 1 gallon fresh milk, 1 pint 
whole eggs, 1 pint yolks, 4 pounds brown sugar, 6 ounces flour, 
2 ounces spice mixture. Mix in cake machine, putting sugar 
and eggs with spices in machine, mix well, then add the 
pumpkin, mix again, then add milk and mix well. Let stand 
for a while. Before filling the mixture in the pies mix up 
well, beating it so a foam forms. This foam bakes and forms 
a cover, holds the top together in baking and prevents cracking. 

Spice mixture used: 1 pound cinnamon, 1 pound ginger, 
% pound mace or nutmeg, 14 pound cloves, 1% pounds salt. 
Mix this well together and use in the pumpkin pies as sug- 
gested. 

No. 2 — 1 quart can pumpkin, 1 pound sugar, 5 eggs, 3 
ounces strong flour, % ounce spices, 1 quart milk. Mix makes 
7 pies. 

Fresh Pumpkin Pie 

No. 3 — 3 pounds fresh pumpkin cooked and rubbed 
through sieve, 12 ounces brown sugar, IV2 pints eggs, 3 ounces 
flour, IV2 ounces mixed spices, 3 quarts fresh sweet milk, 4 
ounces melted butter, lightly browned. Mix like No. 1. 

Pumpkin Pie with Dry Milk 

No. 4 — 1 quart pumpkin, 6 eggs, IV2 ounces strong flour, 
V2 pound milk powder, 12 ounces brown sugar, y 8 pint 
molasses, 1 ounce mixed spices, 2 quarts water. Mix the dry 
ingredients, then add eggs, pumpkin, lastly the water, let 
stand for one-half hour, mix well and use. 

Squash pies are made the same as pumpkin pies. 

CUSTARD PIES 

Use straight fresh milk containing the full cream. Take 
4 to 5 eggs, 1 to IV2 ounces cornstarch, 4 ounces sugar for 
each quart milk. Mix sugar, starch and eggs well, then add 
milk gradually, mix well, and flavor with vanilla or nutmeg, 
with a pinch of salt. 

Baking of Custard Pies 

Custard pies are filled in the oven. The ready bottoms are 
set in the oven, often with a little custard filled in before the 

226 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



pies are placed in the oven; this prevents the blistering or 
drawing up in the oven. The filling is done with a dipper 
made for this purpose, to which a long wooden handle may be 
attached. Custard must be baked carefully. Overbaking 
causes the milk and eggs to curdle. If underbaked, milk will 
be found in center. To ascertain that the custard is done, take 
the clean, dry point of a knife and insert it in the center of 
the pie. If the point comes out dry, the custard is done; 
when not done, milk will be found on the blade. A little close 
observation will soon teach you to know when the custard is 
done. 

Custard Pie — Egg Saver 

Take 4 ounces cornstarch, 2 eggs, 4 ounces sugar, for each 
quart fresh full cream milk ; mix well before filling in the pies. 
Flavor with vanilla or nutmeg. 

Chocolate Custard Pie 

Mix 10 ounces sugar, 2% ounces cornstarch, 3 ounces pow- 
dered cocoa, with 8 eggs ; gradually add 1 quart boiling milk, 
mix well, then add 1 quart cold milk, flavor of vanilla or cinna- 
mon. Fill in the bottoms and bake like plain custard pie. 

Cocoanut Custard Pie 

Fill a small handful of shredded or fresh grated cocoanut 
into the pie bottoms, add a little custard, then fill pies in the 
oven the same as plain custard. 

LEMON AND ORANGE PIE FILLINGS 

No. 1 — 1 quart water, 1 pound sugar, 4 to 5 lemons, 5 
yolks, 3*/2 ounces cornstarch, 1 to 2 ounces melted butter. 

No. 2 — 1 quart water, % pound sugar, 3 lemons, 3 ounces 
cornstarch, 1 ounce butter. 

Method of mixing: Dissolve starch in cold water and mix 
with the yolks, grate the rind of the lemon on the sugar, set 
water, sugar and lemon juice to boil. When it boils stir in the 
starch and yolks, stir until it thickens; take off the fire, add 
the butter, then while warm fill in the previously baked bot- 
toms. 

227 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Mixture for Covered Lemon Pie 

No. 3 — 7 quarts water, 5 pounds sugar, 9 eggs, 8 ounces 
butter, 10 lemons, 1% pounds cornstarch, a little acid solution, 
egg color. (See fruit acid solution under canned fruits). Mix 
and prepare like No. 1. Tapioca may be used in preference to 
cornstarch and the whole lemon with the seeds removed may 
be ground fine and used in the filler. 

Orange Pie 

Make the same as lemon pie, using less of the grated rind, 
adding some lemon juice or some fruit acid if oranges are very 
sweet. 

Lemon Cream or Orange Cream Pie 

The lemon pie mixtures No. 1 and No. 2 may be made into 
a nice cream pie, using milk instead of water. Cook milk, 
sugar and grated rind together, and when it boils add the dis- 
solved starch mixed with the yolks ; when it thickens, add the 
lemon or orange juice the last thing. Stir well, and take off 
the fire. Fill in the baked crusts, then cover with meringue 
as usual, dust with sugar, and let color nicely in the oven. 

Pineapple Meringue or Pineapple Cream Pie 

Use lemon or orange pie mixture, adding some grated or 
finely cut canned pineapple to either and leaving out a part 
of the grated rind and juice. of the lemons. 

CREAM PIES 

Take to each quart of milk 4 ounces sugar, set to boil, dis- 
solve 2V2 ounces cornstarch in */2 pint milk, add 4 or 5 yolks 
and 4 ounces sugar, stir and dissolve. Mix some of the hot milk 
with yolks and starch, and when the milk comes to a boil, 
add starch and yolks and stir until it thickens ; then add about 
1 ounce butter, flavor with vanilla, or grated lemon or orange 
rind, fill in the ready baked bottoms and finish with meringue. 

Cocoanut Cream Pie 

Add about 4 ounces grated or desiccated cocoanut to the 
hot mixture, flavor vanilla or orange. 

228 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Chocolate Cream Pie 

Add 2 ounces cocoa or melted chocolate. 

Butterscotch Pie 

No. 1 — Make like plain cream pies ; flavor with lemon and 
use brown sugar in the place of granulated sugar ; or use part 
brown sugar and part granulated sugar, with a little good but- 
ter. Finish like meringue pie. 

No. 2 — Bring to a boil 1 pound brown sugar, 1 pint water, 
8 ounces butter. Mix together 8 eggs, 4 ounces cornstarch, 
2 quarts milk, add this to the boiling mixture and mix well, 
then bake until set. 

SPECIAL PIES 

Dairy or Fruit Cream Pie 

A thin layer of vanilla cream is filled in the baked bottom, 
covered with fresh strawberries or raspberries, sliced peaches 
or preserved fruits, or jam, and this in turn covered with 
whipped cream or with meringue. These pies are very nice for 
the lunchroom. 

Jellied Pie 

A very popular pie is made in some lunchrooms from pre- 
pared "one-minute" gelatin powder to use up surplus fruit on 
hand which might otherwise become unsalable. Oranges are 
peeled, seeds removed and the pulp cut in small pieces, mixed 
with sliced bananas, pineapple, white grapes, etc., or with 
berries in season. About three packages of the unsweetened 
powder are dissolved in a quart of boiling water and let cool, 
until nearly set. This is then mixed with the sweetened fresh 
fruit, and when it begins to set filled in the ready baked cold 
pie crusts. This gelatin may be colored as required. A cov- 
ering is made from a marshmallow or meringue, to which 
some dissolved gelatin is added. This is set in a cold place to 
cool and stiffen, and ready to serve. It is not advisable to 
keep these pies in warm weather — they must be kept cool and 
served cold, the same as the dairy cream pies with whipped 
cream, or served from the refrigerator. 

229 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Banana Pie 

Peel and slice bananas, thin, sweeten with sugar, add a 
pinch of butter, ginger or allspice, some lemon or orange juice. 
Bake with a full cover, or if in open fashion cover with me- 
ringue when done. 

Combination Fruit Pies 

Apples may be mixed with raisins and mixed peel, or with 
rhubarb, quinces, cranberries, grapes, or raisins. 

Pie a la Mode 

A cut of almost any kind of fruit pie is served with a spoon- 
ful of ice cream on the top or side. 

Boston Cream Pie — Martha Washington Pie 

Bake a layer cake or sponge cake in deep pie tins or layer 
tins. Let cool and split in halves. Fill with a good pastry 
cream or nut cream or with whipped cream, put together, and 
ice, or sift powdered sugar on top. 

Washington Cream Pie 

Line pie tins with a short paste or rich pie crust. Mix 
together 1 pound cake crumbs, V2 pound ground almonds, 6 
ounces sugar, 4 ounces butter, 6 eggs, and a little milk, add 
% ounce baking powder, and fill in the lined tins. Bake, and 
ice with vanilla fondant. Chocolate may be added and the 
pie finished like meringue pie. 

Strawberry or Peach Meringue Pie — Fresh Fruit 

Bake bottoms of good top crust. Sprinkle a layer of light 
cake crumbs in bottom, then cover with well ripened straw- 
berries or raspberries, or peeled and sliced peaches. Finish 
with a lattice and border of meringue, or a full cover of me- 
ringue and brown nicely in the oven. 

Marshmallow or whipped cream may be used in the place 
of meringue, and the pies kept in a cool place until ready to 
serve. 

A similar pie, with fruit, may be made like the Boston 
cream pie, placing the ripe fruit on cream between two layers 
of cakes and sifting powdered sugar on top, or decorating with 
whipped cream. 

230 



XV. PUDDINGS, JAMS, JELLIES 



PUDDINGS 

During the cold months, and especially during the Christ- 
mas month, plum puddings find a good sale. The usual brown 
bread tins, or in fact any tin with a cover, may be used, small 
earthenware bowls are also used by many caterers, to steam 
or boil the puddings. They are best steamed, but if no steamer 
is handy a large kettle or boiler, with a perforated bottom set 
in which will hold enough water to supply the necessary 
steam, can be used. Grease the tins or bowls well and dust 
with flour. Fill tins about three-fourths full, so as to give 
room for the puddings to swell, then put on the cover with a 
piece of wet floured (or tie the bowls in a wet and flour-dusted) 
cloth, and boil or steam for from 2 to 4 hours, according to size 
of pudding. The water must be replenished with more boiling 
water as it boils down. Let the pudding cool down in the tins 
when done, over night. To remove, set tins in hot water and 
they will come out easily and keep their shape. 

Plum Pudding 

No. 1 — 2 pounds bread crumbs, 11/4 pounds finely chopped 
suet, 8 ounces flour, 1*4 pounds brown sugar, 12 eggs, 1 pint 
milk, !/4 pint rum or brandy, 1 pound sultanas, 1 pound seeded 
large raisins, 1 pound currants, 8 ounces mixed citron and 
orange peel, finely cut, 1/4 ounce cinnamon, % ounce mixed 
allspice and nutmeg, the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons, 
14 teaspoonful soda. Mix the dry ingredients and add the 
liquids. Add more milk if mixture is too firm, fill in moulds 
as directed and steam from 2 to 4 hours. 

No. 2 — 2 pounds crumbs, 1% pounds flour, iy 2 pounds suet, 
V2 pint molasses, IV2 pounds sugar, 3 pounds raisins, 1 pound 
currants, 1 pound citron, % pound orange peel, IV2 ounces 
mixed spices, % ounce soda, V2 ounce salt. 

No. 3—3 pounds crumbs, 3 pounds brown sugar,. 4 pounds 
suet, 2y 2 ounces salt, mix with 16 beaten eggs, 2 quarts milk, 

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CAKES FOR BAKERS 



1 quart N. 0. molasses, 5% to 6 pounds cake flour, 1 ounce 
cinnamon, % ounce mace, % ounce allspice, 2% ounces baking 
powder. Mix and add 6 pounds seeded raisins, 6 pounds cur- 
rants, or half small raisins and currants, IV2 pounds citron, 
V2 pound orange peel, 4 lemons — grated rind and juice, 1 
pound almonds finely cut. Mix well and steam as directed. 
They may be taken from the tins when cold, wrapped and 
labeled attractively, ready for sale. 

A Variety of Fruit Puddings 

Besides the given plum puddings a variety of lighter pud- 
dings can be made in the bakery, using stale bread crumbs 
to the best advantage. 

Standard Fruit Pudding 

1 pound bread crumbs, % pound flour, 1/2 pound chopped 
beef suet, V2 pound sugar, 1/2 pound seeded or seedless raisins, 
V2 pound currants, 14 pound chopped citron, V2 ounce mixed 
spice, 2 to 4 eggs, 14 teaspoon soda, salt, milk to mix, the 
grated rind and juice of one lemon. Mix like plum pudding. 
This may be made into a plum pudding adding % pint mo- 
lasses in the place of sugar. 

For Cocoanut Pudding: Leave out raisins, currants and 
spices, add V2 pound freshly grated or shredded cocoanut, and 
4 ounces finely chopped orange peel. 

For Fig Pudding; add % pound finely cut figs, and some 
candied citron or orange peel. 

For Date Pudding, add V2 pound dates cut in small pieces. 

For Lemon or Orange Pudding, add % pound of finely cut 
lemon or orange peel, the grated rind and juice of one lemon 
or orange. Sultanas, seeded raisins, sliced peaches, apples, or 
apricots may be used in similar ways. 

These puddings may be boiled or steamed in molds. They 
may be served in lunchrooms, or sold whole the same as plum 
puddings, and bakers can work up a nice trade during the cold 
months. 

JAMS AND JELLIES 

The making of jams and jellies has been discontinued in 
the bakery, and very good articles may be bought for less 

232 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



money, considering time and labor required. This part of the 
work is done by specialists and with perfect appliances in the 
factories. Goods are made in different grades, and the high- 
grade goods may be obtained at a fair price. 

Jam Making 

The methods of making jams is practically the same for 
the different fruits. All jams and jellies should be cooked 
rapidly over a hot fire or in a steam- jacketed preserving kettle, 
in order to obtain the best flavor and bright color. Large 
fruits may be thinly sliced, berries may be used whole, but do 
not remain whole in the cooking. For jam the fruit, sugar 
and if necessary a little water are stirred over the fire con- 
tinuously. A part of glucose added with the sugar is pref- 
erable, as it prevents crystallization. Jams are cooked until 
a drop put on a plate will retain the shape of a bead without 
spreading, and in the commercial jam making a thermometer 
is used similar in shape to the dough thermometers. The 
jam is usually cooked to 222 degrees Fahr. When finished at 
this point, the jam drops off in flakes from the side of the 
spoon, instead of coming off in drops. It becomes quickly 
thicker when cold, but for baking purposes jams may be 
cooked a few degrees higher, up to 224 to 225 degrees Fahr. 

The general rule for jams and jellies is to use 1 pound 
sugar for 1 pound pulp or fruit juice, but a more delicate 
flavor is obtained by using only % pound sugar. Glucose may 
be used in proportion of from 1 to 2 pounds glucose to 10 
pounds sugar. When making berries into jam it is best to 
use a part of berries under-ripe, say half of each, the other 
part fully ripe. The ripe fruit gives the flavor, while the 
slightly under-ripe berries give the jelly-like consistency to 
the finished product. In the cooking of jams shallow vessels 
are best suited for the evaporation and cooking required. Put 
the cooked jam or jelly in containers when cooled down to 176 
degrees, then seal with melted paraffin. 

Apple juice is less expensive and is very useful in adding 
to other fruits such as berries, which are in some seasons very 
scarce, and apple juice is used often in even proportions with 
the juice of berries to reduce the cost of production. 

233 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Fruit Jam 

To 10 pounds berries take 8 pounds sugar, mix and stir 
until it drops in flakes from the spoon, then fill in the con- 
tainers as directed. 

Apple Jelly and Jam 

The peeling and core of apples, or the entire apples, are 
covered with water and boiled for half an hour, then filtered 
through cheesecloth and boiled down to three-fourths of the 
volume. This filtered juice may be added to the juice of ber- 
ries and other fruit as mentioned previously, or, when making 
a pure apple jelly, for each gallon of apple juice 8 pounds 
sugar are added, stirred until dissolved on the fire, then boiled 
continuously until it jellies. When the sugar is first dissolved 
it will run syrup from paddle or skimmer. The next stage it 
will string, and at the next it will break from the paddle in 
drops. To judge, place a drop on a cool surface. It will bead 
and not run flat. A good test is to let the jelly cook sufficiently 
so the drops are rather heavy and slide off in a flake. The 
jelly point is near 218 and 221 degrees Fahr. 

For apple jam, cook apples with sufficient water and when 
soft press through a sieve. Cooking the fruit with the peel 
makes a firmer jam. For 10 pounds of this pulp take 6 pounds 
sugar, cook and stir constantly until it jellies. For a clear 
jam add the grated rind and juice of 2 or 3 lemons. For a 
red jam, use the dark red skinned apples with same propor- 
tions of sugar, or 2 pounds of cranberries or raspberries may 
be added. 

Pulp expressed from jelly making may be used in cheaper 
grades of jams. 

For cherry jelly, raspberry jelly, strawberry jelly or black- 
berry jelly, use the same proportions of sugar, and equal parts 
of apple juice may be boiled down with these fruits and fin- 
ished as usual. 

Commercial Apple Jelly 

Use 6 pounds apple juice, 2 quarts water, 4 to 6 ounces 
agar-agar (Japanese gelatin), % ounce citric acid, 2 quarts 
cranberries, 10 pounds granulated sugar, 10 pounds glucose. 
Soak gelatin in 1 quart water, boil cranberries soft in 1 quart 

234 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



water, and strain. Mix with other ingredients, add the dis- 
solved acid and gelatin. Let boil to the thread degree or 220 
degrees. Other flavors or fruit juices, such as raspberry, cur- 
rants, etc., may be used with the apple juice in the same pro- 
portions. 

Where there is not sufficient acid present in the fruit to 
make the jellies "jell," factories add some acid to make 
them stand better. These acids are known as coagulants 
or fruit acids. They are made by dissolving 1 pound tartaric 
acid in 1 quart water, or 1 pound citric acid in 1 pint water. 
These acids are used in the proportion of about 2 ounces of 
the solution in 10 pounds jelly or less, depending on the amount 
of acidity in the fruit. 



235 



XVI. ICE CREAMS, ICES, 
SYRUPS, ETC. 



Ice creams, to conform with pure food laws, should con- 
tain not less than 14 per cent milk fat. The best plan is to 
use a good grade of cream, that is, to use an 18 to 20 per cent 
cream, as the adding of sugar, flavor, etc., reduces the cream 
several per cent. 

STANDARD FORMULA FOR PLAIN ICE CREAM 

To 10 quarts 18 per cent cream, add 4 pounds granulated 
sugar; dissolve sugar thoroughly by stirring; add 2 ounces 
dissolved gelatin, flavor with about 2 ounces vanilla extract. 
This mixture may be used for a variety of ice creams. 

Chocolate Ice Cream 

For chocolate ice cream, dissolve 12 ounces chocolate or 
cocoa with % pound sugar and sufficient water on the fire to 
form a thick syrup. Add this to the given mixture and freeze 
as usual. The hot process of making the cream is often pre- 
ferred when using chocolate or fruit, producing a smoother 
cream but less bulk. 

Chocolate Ice Cream, Hot Process 

Use Standard formula given. Put sugar and finely cut 
chocolate or cocoa (from 12 to 16 ounces) into kettle, and a 
little of the cream, stir on the fire until dissolved, gradually 
add the rest of the cream, and heat the mixture to near boiling 
point or to about 180 degrees, but do not let it boil. Then take 
off the fire, strain, and cool before freezing. 

Coffee Ice Cream 

Follow the same method, heating sugar and cream to 180 
degrees, take off the fire, and add from 10 to 12 ounces finely 
ground coffee. Cover and let draw for thirty minutes, strain, 
add gelatin and caramel color if required, let cool thoroughly, 

236 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and freeze. Some ice cream makers prefer to add the coffee 
extracted in about a quart of boiling water to the cold mixture 
given. 

STANDARD ICE CREAM WITH EGGS— NEW YORK 
ICE CREAM 

For 10 quarts 20 per cent cream take 4*4 pounds sugar, 
12 whole eggs, or 20 yolks of eggs. Set 6 quarts cream on the 
fire with half the sugar ; beat the eggs lightly with the other 
half of the sugar, and when light thin the eggs with a part of 
the hot cream. Then put eggs and cream together on the fire, 
stirring constantly. As soon as the mixture on the fire begins 
to thicken (which may be ascertained by its coating the 
spatula or beater), add the remaining 4 quarts cold cream to 
check the boiling. Take off the fire, strain and cool, add flavor, 
and freeze as usual. Gelatin may be used in this cream if 
desired, adding the dissolved gelatin when nearly cool. The 
proper cooking requires close watching at the point when the 
eggs begin to thicken. The cream should lose the raw egg 
taste, but not come to a boil. Boiling would curdle the eggs 
and prevent the proper amalgamation of cream and eggs. 

Most of the different flavored creams may be made as sug- 
gested by the cold process, especially chocolate, caramel, vanilla 
and nut creams. Fruit creams have better flavor without eggs, 
and the cold mixtures are preferred. 

For fruit creams, such as strawberry, raspberry, and peach, 
mash about 2 quarts fully ripe fruit, adding a part of the 
sugar, and when the cream is partly frozen, add the crushed 
and sweetened fruit and finish freezing. For nut creams, 
almonds should be blanched and browned, then crushed; fil- 
berts roasted and the skin removed, then crushed; walnuts 
and pecans, simply chopped fine. From 1 to 2 pounds nutmeats 
may be added to the quantity of ice cream called for in the 
Standard recipes. 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream — Nougat Ice Cream 

Brown 1 pound blanched almonds. Put 1 pound sugar on 
the fire, stir until it melts without burning, and when it turns 
a golden brown add the browned almonds, mix, and turn out 
on pan or marble slab to let cool. Crush the almonds with a 

237 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



rolling pin and sift through a wide mesh sieve. This mixture 
may be kept on hand for use, adding from 4 to 8 ounces to 
each gallon of cream before cooking; or if only a small quan- 
tity is required, add sufficient to the ready frozen plain vanilla 
or New York ice cream. 

Hazelnut or Filbert Ice Cream 

Add from 4 to 6 ounces browned crushed nuts to each gal- 
lon of vanilla ice cream, with a small quantity of caramel 
coloring to give a light brown shade. 

Pistachio Ice Cream 

For each gallon of cream add 8 to 12 ounces blanched pis- 
tachio nuts, and flavor with pistachio extract. If almonds are 
substituted, take 12 ounces blanched almonds, run through 
chopper or crushed fine, flavor with pistachio, and color cream 
a delicate light green. 

Bisque Ice Cream 

To each gallon of partly frozen cream add from 12 to 16 
ounces dried and crushed macaroons, or a mixture of crushed 
wafers and browned almonds, passed through a wide mesh 
sieve. Vanilla flavor preferred. 

Tutti Frutti Ice Cream 

Take 1 pound candied cherries, 1 pound mixed French fruit 
glace, 1 pound walnut meats. Chop the fruit in small pieces 
and cover with a light syrup, let simmer on slow fire to soften, 
then set aside and let cool. This may be kept on hand in jars. 
Add IV2 pounds of this mixture to 1 gallon partly frozen cream 
and finish freezing. 

Nesselrode Ice Cream 

Add to tutti frutti mixture V2 pound finely cut seeded 
raisins, 4 ounces citron. 

Tutti frutti ice cream and Nesselrode ice cream are often 
frozen in brick form, or in fancy melon forms, cut in slices, 
and served with a rich custard sauce or whipped cream sauce. 

238 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



FROZEN PUDDINGS 
Plum Pudding 

To 1 quart chocolate ice cream or tutti frutti ice cream, 
flavored with spices and colored with caramel, add sufficient 
French fruit glaces, chopped nuts and raisins, flavor of cloves 
and cinnamon. Freeze in brick mold from 2 to 3 hours. Serve 
with a cold custard sauce. 

Royal Ice Cream — Royal Pudding 

To 1 quart New York ice cream add % pound candied pine- 
apple, 2 ounces cherries, 1 ounce blanched pistachio nuts cut 
in shreds and % pint whipped cream, and freeze again in brick 
mold for 2 to 3 hours. Serve with a cold custard sauce. 

Cold Chocolate Sauce 

11/2 pounds sugar, 1 pint water, 8 ounces chocolate. Mix 
and dissolve on the fire, let come to a boil and strain. Let 
cool and flavor with vanilla. 

Sauce Mousseline 

Beat 1 pint 35 per cent whipping cream on ice until nearly 
firm, sweeten with 4 ounces powdered sugar. Flavors of 
vanilla, maraschino, noyeau and others are used in this sauce. 

There are quite a number of fancy ice creams used for 
special occasions. (Two chapters are devoted to these "Fancy 
Ice Creams and Frozen Punches" in Paul Richards' Pastry 
Book, as well as a chapter on parfaits, mousses and biscuits 
glaces.) 

FRUIT ICES AND SHERBETS 

A very simple way of making ices and sherbets is to weigh 
and measure sugar and liquids, add fruit and flavor, mix and 
stir until the sugar is well dissolved, making a preparation, 
using the different fruits, similar to a lemonade. 

Standard Lemon Water Ice 

Take 5 pounds granulated sugar, 15 to 20 lemons (or 1% 
pints juice), 6 quarts water. Grate the yellow rind of 10 
lemons on the sugar, rubbing it well into the sugar to obtain 
the essential oil, add water, stir to dissolve the sugar, let 

239 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



infuse for one hour, then add the juice of the lemons, strain 
and freeze. 

Lemon Sherbet 

Add to above 5 beaten egg whites or 1 ounce of dissolved 
gelatin before freezing. 

Orange Water Ice or Sherbet 

5 pounds sugar, 6 quarts water, 10 to 15 oranges, according 
to size, % pint lemon juice, the grated rind of 5 to 6 oranges, 
and the expressed juice of all. Prepare the same as lemon ice, 
let infuse, strain and freeze. 

For sherbet add the beaten whites of five eggs or one ounce 
dissolved gelatin before freezing. 

Pineapple Ice or Sherbet 

5 pounds sugar, 2 1-quart cans grated pineapple, 1/2 pint 
lemon juice, 51/2 quarts water. Fresh ripe pineapple may be 
used in proportion. Let infuse, strain and freeze. Some ice 
cream makers simply mix the grated pineapple into ready 
frozen lemon ice or sherbet. 

Strawberry, Raspberry and Peach Ices 

To 5 pounds granulated sugar add from 3 to 4 quarts 
crushed fruit pulp. Mix well and let infuse, then add 51/2 
quarts water and some lemon juice or citric acid solution, to 
obtain a tart flavor ; add color if required, and freeze as usual. 

For peach flavor add the crushed peach kernels, or a drop 
of bitter almond extract. 

Fruit acids are often used to tone up fruit ices where no 
lemon flavor is desired, or when lemons are high priced. 

The lemon water ice formula may be used as a standard 
for nearly all the ices and sherbets, simply changing the flavors 
and omitting the grated lemon rind. By adding about % 
ounce melted gelatin to each gallon of ice, sherbets are pro- 
duced which are practically water ices of a lighter nature, 
usually less rich in sugar and fruit. 

Fancy fruit ices may be made by peeling and coring one 
dozen nice cooking apples and boiling them soft in a gallon 
of water; add 31/2 pounds of sugar, then add a stick of cinna- 

240 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



mon, stir and let cool, strain and season with lemon juice, then 
freeze. This mixture may be colored pink, flavored vanilla or 
rose, or flavored with raspberry juice; or the cinnamon may 
be left out and the mixture flavored with peppermint, colored 
a pale green. Pears may be used in the place of apples, or 
grape juice may be added. This produces quite a variety of 
fancy ices. 

Frozen Punches 

Punches are made by adding some fancy cordial, such as 
maraschino, creme de menthe or noyeau, to sherbets. 

Frozen Fruit Salad — Macedoine of Fruit 

These ices are made from fresh fruits in season, also from 
combinations of fresh and preserved fruits and of candied 
fruits. Take oranges, bananas, pineapples, peaches, cherries, 
raspberries or strawberries, also grapes. Peel the oranges, 
remove white pith and seeds, cut grapes in halves, large straw- 
berries in quarters, other fruits in dice. Cover the fruit with 
a syrup for two hours, then drain and mix with a pineapple 
or lemon ice. Pack the mixture in a freezing can without the 
dasher, let freeze without agitation, so the fruit does not get 
broken and become mushy. This is a good means of using up 
fruit if there is plenty on hand. 

The same mixture may be served without being frozen, 
by simply packing it in ice to keep cool, and serving it as a 
fruit salad at the fountain. 

BRICK ICE CREAMS 

Single- and double-lid molds holding one or two quarts are 
used, also special long and narrow molds which make a small 
slice, suitable for ice cream sandwich. Bricks are made from 
plain cream, also in different flavors and colors as required. 
The double-lid molds are the most handy, because the ice cream 
can be easily removed, while the single-lid mold has the advan- 
tage of being closed at the bottom, and there is less danger 
of any brine getting in and spoiling the cream. The brick 
molds should be well filled, so that in putting down the cover 
some of the cream will squeeze out on the sides to seal the 
mold. For packing, put some salted ice in the bottom of the 

241 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



tub, lay in the bricks, cover with layers of ice and salt. When 
Ice and salt have melted the cream will be frozen hard. It 
takes from two to three hours to harden 1-quart and 2-quart 
bricks. To remove the cream from the mold, dip the mold for 
a moment in lukewarm water, wipe off the adhering salt with 
a cloth, take off the cover, and let the cream slide out on the 
paper used for wrapping, or cut in portions and wrap sepa- 
rately. Pack at once in cans which have been packed in ice 
previously. There are special square packing tanks made with 
removable shelves, which facilitate the quick handling and 
serving of these creams. 

ICE CREAM FREEZING 

The ice cream freezers are made in various types and sizes. 
Where electric power can be secured it pays to use power 
freezers, which are made in large and small sizes. It makes 
the work easy. Some of the freezers have a crusher attach- 
ment which may be bought for a reasonable price. 

Freezing Mixture of Ice and Salt 

A proportion of 1 part salt to 12-15 parts crushed ice is 
about right for freezing creams. The ice must be broken fine 
enough so it melts evenly and goes down around the freezing 
tub easily. Much ice can be saved by salting the ice in the tub. 

A speed of about 90 to 95 revolutions per minute of the 
machine is considered the most suitable. 

To freeze the cream, fill the freezing tub around the can 
about half full with the crushed ice, add a layer of salt, then 
use alternate layers of ice and salt until the tub is filled. The 
salt will gradually work down and promote the freezing. If 
the mixture is properly cooled before putting in the freezer, 
only 15 to 18 minutes' time should be required to freeze the 
cream ; ices and sherbets take longer. Care must be taken to 
have the ice properly crushed; large pieces not only retard 
freezing, but often cause dents in the freezing cans, and holes 
eventually appear in these dents, allowing leaks likely to spoil 
a whole batch of ice cream. It should be kept in mind that it 
is the brine which does the freezing. Leaky tubs or ill-fitting 
bungs often let out the brine and retard freezing. The ice 
which has been used for freezing should not be used to freeze 

242 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



a second batch, as it loses strength. But it may be used for 
packing frozen creams by mixing with some fresh ice and salt. 
This is the better way. Too rapid freezing often causes loss 
of volume, also a granular texture. Over freezing also results 
in loss of volume, because the "swell" goes down, and often 
causes small grains of butter to form in the cream. 

Too much salt is as great a fault as too little, as with too 
much salt the cream freezes too quickly, causing loss in "swell" 
and a granular texture. 

In the freezing of the cream, the ice cream mixture is 
beaten to lightness by the agitator, and at the same time the 
mixture freezes and gains volume. This point of freezing 
requires close attention, as the frozen cream should be removed 
from the freezer and poured into the packing can, or, where 
only one batch is to be frozen the agitator may be taken out 
and the frozen cream left in the freezing can to harden. If 
the freezing should be continued it would cause loss of vol- 
ume, the cream would harden, the swell caused by incorporat- 
ing air would go down. By transferring the frozen cream at 
the right time, repacking it and letting it harden in the can, 
the volume is retained. If ice cream is stirred or handled after 
it is partly hardened it will lose bulk. For this reason it is 
more profitable, if outside orders are taken, to fill the freshly 
frozen cream in the packing cans and let it harden in them. 

BINDERS AND FILLERS IN ICE CREAMS 

Binders and fillers will act at the same time as a stabilizer, 
give body to the frozen cream by preventing the formation of 
small ice crystals, prevent granulation and coarseness, and 
keep the frozen creams in good condition for several days. 
There are a number of preparations in the market — ice cream 
powders, cream thickeners, etc., and the firms selling these 
goods give directions how to apply them. Of all these goods 
mentioned, gelatin takes the first place, and for this reason 
it is almost universally favored by ice cream makers. Only 
the best grades should be used, low grades having a gluey 
odor which easily affects the flavor of pure cream. All gela- 
tins are slightly acid, hence require careful handling. If 
overheated in milk or cream they are likely to curdle the 
cream. This may be prevented by soaking the gelatin in cold 

243 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



water sufficiently to dissolve it when warmed. Dilute the mix- 
ture by adding sugar or syrup, then stir and strain this solu- 
tion into the ice cream mixture. Adding gelatin gives a smooth 
texture to creams and prevents the forming of ice crystals, 
but if used in too large quantities it causes the cream to be- 
come sticky, or pasty. Gelatin is used in the proportion of 
about 4 ounces in a 40-quart batch of cream. Soak and dis- 
solve in as much water as it will absorb, warm and dissolve 
gently, add 4 ounces sugar, stir and dissolve. Strain this on 
the ready cream, which contains sugar, stir and mix thor- 
oughly before freezing. 

SIMPLE SYRUP 

This syrup can be easily made in any quantity. It is made 
by dissolving 12 pounds sugar in 1 gallon water. Sugar and 
water may be simply mixed with warm water to dissolve per- 
fectly, then strained through cheesecloth to have it perfectly 
clear. The less the syrup is heated in the making, the better 
it will be. A slightly heavier syrup is made from 14 pounds 
sugar to the gallon of water, and 1 pound of the sugar may be 
replaced by 1 pound glucose, to be dissolved with hot water. 
This syrup is used in the bakery for washing or glacing buns 
as soon as they are taken from the oven, and is best applied 
with a soft brush. 

SUGAR BOILING DEGREES 

Candy makers use the thermometer for high cooked goods 
and the saccharometer or syrup gauge for syrup used for crys- 
talizing candies. The thermometer does not register low 
cooks, such as 220 degrees, accurately, so the syrup gauge 
gives better satisfaction. 

Degrees of Degrees of 

Name of Degrees Thermometer Saccharometer 

Syrup— Small Thread 218 to 220 32 to 33 

Large Thread 228 to 230 35 to 37 

Blow 230 to 240 38 to 40 

Soft Ball 242 to 244 42 to 45 

Hard Ball 250 to 255 Boiling sugar after 

q ,, p i oac\ more than 45 de- 

omail UraCK ZoU grees, becomes too 

Hard Crack 285 to 315 dense for the syrup 

Caramel 320 to 360 ^^ eTetoTe un ~ 

244 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Sugar is from pearl to thread for syrup, blow and feather 
for crystallization and conserves, ball, crack and caramel for 
candy and spun sugar work. 

There are other definitions for boiling, such as catch or 
soft ball, small soft ball, large ball, soft crack, snap, hard 
crack, medium crack, high crack — all are used to denote the 
different degrees. 

Finger Test 

The other way of testing, without the thermometer, using 
the finger, a stick of wood or wire or skimmer, may be fol- 
lowed. 

Small Thread: When the syrup has boiled for some time, 
dip tip of finger or stick in the syrup and test between the 
thumb and forefinger. If it can be drawn into a fine thread 
which breaks if drawn out, it has reached the proper degree. 

Large Thread: Continue boiling and try as before until 
the thread can be pulled without breaking to the full spread 
of the fingers. 

Blow Degree: Dip a skimmer or a wire bent into a loop, 
blow through the holes ; if bubbles appear it has reached this 
degree. 

Soft Ball: Dip finger in cold water or use stick, then in 
the boiling sugar and quickly back into the water. Try the 
sugar. If it can be formed into a soft small ball it has reached 
the degree which is used for cooking sugar for fondant or for 
marshmallow. 

Hard Ball : A little more boiling, with the same test, will 
form a harder and larger ball. 

Small Crack: Boiling is continued. If when tested the 
sugar breaks with a slight crack or bites hard and does not 
stick to the teeth, it has attained the small crack. 

Hard Crack : If sugar breaks short and crisp with a snap, 
it is at the hard crack degree. 

Caramel: In a few moments the sugar will turn quickly 
and take on a golden yellow color; this is the caramel degree. 
At this stage it is used for fancy sugar work, nougat, spun 
sugar, web sugar, handles for baskets and other work. It 

245 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



should be taken off the fire at once when it reaches this stage, 
and the kettle set in cold water for a moment to quickly stop 
more boiling. If boiling is continued the sugar will turn a 
dark brown and smoke and burn. At this stage it is used for 
coloring. Water is added and it is boiled into a syrup which 
keeps indefinitely if bottled for use. 

Information about sugar work, candy making, ice creams 
and syrups for soda fountains is given in "Candy for Des- 
sert," by Paul Richards. 



246 



XVII. PREPARING CAKES FOR SALE 



In the large cake bakeries, which confine their business to 
a small variety of cakes, the baked cakes are placed in racks 
or shelves to cool. The lighter varieties are made ready at 
once; the box cakes are frosted and cut, wrapped and placed 
in cartons ready for shipping. The richer grades of pound 
cakes and fruit cakes are wiped with a cloth and wrapped in 
waxed paper. The heavy, rich grades of fruit cakes, also 
Christmas cakes, which improve with age, are often baked 
several weeks before the holidays. The baking paper is left 
on the cakes, and the cakes are wrapped in waxed paper. A 
stamp is used to denote the day of baking. 

The retail baker is obliged to produce a larger variety of 
cakes, large and small, and I give here an outline of how one 
successful retail baker prepares his cakes for sale. This 
baker has quite a large trade in block cakes. Many of the 
cakes are baked in blocks. When baked they are about 1% 
inches thick; two blocks are put together with a half -inch- 
thick layer of marshmallow filling, making a block about three 
inches thick. The cakes are frosted and cut in pieces. 

Angel Food Cakes are baked in three sizes. Round cakes 
are baked in the usual forms with a center tube. A 2-quart 
size is scaled 15 ounces and frosted with white vanilla. The 
cakes are placed on paper plates. A chocolate angel cake of 
the same size is frosted with chocolate and sells for the same 
price. Another cake is baked in a tin 19x1114x11/2 inches, 
with straight sides, and scaled about 2% pounds. Two of 
the baked cakes are put together with marshmallow, finished 
on top with vanilla frosting. The cakes are placed on paper 
on boards of white wood, and in the store these blocks are cut 
in ten pieces. The baker has made a frame of white tin, the 
exact size of the cakes or blocks, which divides or marks each 
block in ten even slices ; also one for a larger size pan 19x25x1 
inch for large sheet blocks, which makes 18 cuts. This makes 

247 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



it easy for the sales people to cut the cakes exactly and 
quickly. 

Orange Cakes are made in two sizes. Small cakes are 
baked in a pan with top 8*4x4% inches, bottom 8x3% inches, 
2% inches deep. Large blocks are baked in the same size 
tins as the angel blocks, scaled about 2% pounds, two put 
together with marshmallow, finished, iced and cut in the 
same sizes as the angel blocks. The small orange cakes are 
very popular. These cakes are scaled about 11 ounces; are 
flavored with orange rind, and are frosted with a thin frosting 
made of the juice and flavored with the rind of the oranges. 

Sunshine Cake is baked in round tins, the same as angel 
cake tins, and scaled about 9 ounces. The cakes are flavored 
with the grated rind and juice of lemon and frosted with 
lemon-flavored frosting. 

Devil's Food Cake is baked in pans of the same size as the 
angel cake tins, with the difference that the pans are lined 
with white wood, %-inch thick on sides and ends, then lined 
with paper. The baked cakes, which are scaled 2*4 pounds 
in each pan, are put together in blocks with marshmallow 
and frosted in chocolate; a few chopped nuts are sprinkled 
on top, or the top is made in marble fashion — each pan to 
make 10 cuts. A straight sided pan, 18x25x1% inches, is also 
used ; two sheets are put together as above, producing 18 cuts. 

Walnut Cakes are made up in blocks the same as the 
devil's food, put together with marshmallow which contains 
a few ground nuts; the top is frosted white and sprinkled 
with chopped nuts. Cut in 10 pieces. 

Chop Suey or Tutti Frutti Cakes are made up in blocks 
the same as the nut cakes. Two sheets or blocks are put 
together with maple marshmallow, frosted with caramel or 
maple-flavored frosting, with a few nuts sprinkled on top, 
and cut in 10 pieces. 

Neapolitan Cakes are made from a yellow layer cake mix- 
ture, baked in straight-sided papered pan 19x25x11/2 inches. 
One sheet is colored with chocolate, and three sheets (the 
chocolate in the center) are put together. The fillings are 
varied frequently — creams, jelly and white or maple marsh- 
mallow are used for filling; the top is frosted with white 
lemon-flavored frosting; a pan is made into 18 cuts. 

248 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



A variety of white and yellow poundcakes are made ; baked 
in pans which hold about 3^ pounds cake dough. The pans 
are lined with white wood, made of a size 18x7x3 inches, with 
double paper or asbestos on bottom. The cakes are usually 
frosted on top with a delicately-flavored frosting. A pan of 
this size is made into 6 cuts. 

MISCELLANEOUS 

In some of the white cakes, cherries are added, about 2 
ounces of cherries cut in halves or quarters for each pound of 
cake batter. Others contain citron, or sultanas. The frosting 
used on the different cakes is made to suit, adding a few 
finely-cut cherries, citron, or sultanas to the icing. 

The large fruit cakes, block fruit cake, raisin poundcake 
and citron cake are sold by the pound or by the cut. The 
best grades, sold by the pound, are covered with a well- 
flavored thick frosting. Some other cakes are sold plain. 
Frosting cakes sold by the pound are the most profitable, for 
the reason that one pound of frosting or sugar costs less than 
one pound of rich cake. For these cakes a size of pan is used 
which allows for cuts in even pounds; this prevents loss in 
sales. Some of the fruit cakes are cut in halves and the cut 
side exposed to show the fruit and grain of the cake. This 
method is also followed with various other cakes, white, light- 
yellow fruit cakes and poundcakes. 

Some of the cakes may be cut and wrapped in 1-pound 
packages, using transparent paper. The cakes are sealed with 
fancy stickers and tied with small ribbon — candy-box fashion. 
This makes a very attractive package to take home. 

Fancy Cakes 

Quite a variety of fancy cakes are made up in different 
shapes, using a solid mixture to which are added nuts or 
almonds ground fine. Chocolate and nut cakes are baked in 
hoops to hold 1 pound of the cake batter. These cakes are 
baked the day before using; the next day they are split 
through and put together with nut cream, mocha cream or 
chocolate. The same creams are used on the sides, and the 
sides are rolled in chopped roasted nuts, a border piped on 
the frosted cakes, or the cake is decorated with some halves 

249 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



of nuts or almonds; or a cherry with angelica leaf decora- 
tion is put in the center. The same mixtures are baked in 
sheets in a pan with straight sides, the same as Neapolitan 
cakes. Two pans are put together with jelly, marshmallow 
or cream fillings ; each pan is cut in 18 pieces about 21/2 inches 
wide, 214 inches high, 6 inches long. Each piece is fully 
frosted, some in chocolate, others white or pink, and the 







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cakes are decorated with nuts or cherries, some of them fin- 
ished with butter cream, etc. From the same cakes square 
cakes are made and put together with various fillings. For 
some cakes a meringue is used, spread on the side and top; 
the cakes are sprinkled with nuts or cocoanut and then put 
in the oven just long enough to color meringue and nuts a 
delicate brown. 

Other Layer Cakes are made in a large variety; white 
and yellow layers are filled with various fillings and frosted 

250 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



in different flavors and colors in accordance with the fillings, 
which gives the patrons quite a choice. The layer cake tins 
are made with straight sides. Eight-inch layers are scaled 
about 10 ounces. 



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Small loaf cakes, such as Duchess Cake, made from the 
well-known mixtures, are baked in papered 1-pound bread 
tins, scaled about 1 pound, frosted in white, caramel or maple 
frosting, with a few chopped nuts or some browned cocoanut 
sprinkled on top. 




Fancy Layer Cake 

Chocolate rolls are filled with marshmallow. Maple rolls, 
made of a yellow mixture, are filled with a brown maple 
marshmallow. These rolls are usually made the day before 
using, to let the marshmallow set; they are cut in 6 pieces, 

251 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



each cut frosted with chocolate or maple frosting, placed on 
paraffin paper, 12 cuts on each pan. 

Cup Cakes 

Cup cakes are made from light and dark mixtures. Lunch 
cup cakes are frosted with orange frostingfi dark cups or spice 
cups are frosted in chocolate. Some of the light cup cakes 
are frosted with white vanilla icing, and some of them are 
sold plain, without being frosted. This policy of finishing 
the cakes attractively is followed also with other cakes. 

This bakery carries also a nice assortment of small fancy 
cakes and pastries which sell rapidly ; they are made from the 
best materials and make a fine display. Quite a good many 
orders for cakes for special occasions, such as parties, wed- 
dings and birthdays, are taken, and such cakes are exposed at 
the counter for show or as an advertisement. 

During the holiday season, quite a number of large layer 
cakes are sold. These are made up in 9- or 10-inch layers ; two 
layers are put together, frosted, and decorated with a simple 
decoration, greeting, etc. For Washington's birthday white 
layer cake is decorated with a bunch of cherries. A stem of 
angelica is inserted in candied cherries; leaves are also made 
of angelica. Christmas cakes are fixed in holly fashion, mak- 
ing a spray of angelica and red wintergreen candy berries. 

Displaying Small Goods 

The small cakes, such as lady fingers, macaroons and 
cookies, are always packed in symmetrical order on papered 
white tin pans. They are stacked in pyramid fashion, which 
gives a nice appearance. The pans are refilled and rearranged 
if a part of the cakes are sold, to make them always look their 
best. In packing the lady fingers, each layer is sifted over 
thinly with some fine icing-sugar to make them look best. 
This method of packing and sugaring is also used for fried 
cakes, jelly balls and doughnuts. 

The yeast-raised sweet goods are also carefully finished. 
Scones and tea biscuits are washed with a good yolk of egg 
wash, which gives them a rich appearance. Some of these 
goods are washed with a syrup to give a good gloss. Cream 

252 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



puffs, chocolate eclairs and other pastry are made up in a 
large variety. 

There are quite a number of other goods, not named here, 
but this will give you an idea of what can be done towards 
keeping up the quality and getting the price for it. It may 
be added that all goods should be marked with neatly printed 
cards, giving the name of the goods and the prices they sell 
for — by the piece or by the dozen. This practice makes the 
patrons familiar with the names of the different products as 
well as their prices. It facilitates selling in the rush hours, 
for customers know just what to ask for, and just the amount 
they must expect to pay for the goods. 

All bakery goods are put up in specially made paper fold- 
ing boxes, made to fit the different sized cakes, so they may 
be carried home without crushing. The goods are frequently 
advertised in the local papers and special sales are announced, 
at which certain cakes are sold at a lower price at a certain 
day or hour. This brings many patrons who also buy other 
goods. The varieties of cakes are frequently changed, to have 
something different, or different looking, on display; this 
attracts buyers. 

CAKE MAKING AND CAKE BAKING DON'TS 
Buying Materials 

Don't change materials used in cake making too fre- 
quently. By keeping to the same grade of materials the 
goods can be turned out with more uniform results. If you- 
change the flour it may require a change in the recipe to 
conform with the different properties. 

Have on hand different kinds of sugar, such as granulated, 
standard, powdered and XXXX icing sugar and one or two 
grades of brown sugar. 

Standard powdered sugar makes the best soft cakes be- 
cause it is more easily blended with the other ingredients, 
mixes quicker and dissolves, prevents overbeating or over- 
heating the mixture, and gives a better appearance to the 
cakes. 

If possible have a uniform cost price for materials by 
contracting for and laying in butter and eggs in the spring 

253 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



or early in the summer, or by buying and placing them in 
cold storage. 

Butter and Other Shortenings 

Don't use any bad butter. Butter takes up any odor 
easily, and some of the low grade butter becomes rancid 
more readily, and often acquires a fishy odor if kept in stor- 
age. The shortening should consist of good butter or a 
neutral fat, especially in making poundcakes. 

In selecting butter, care should be taken to choose a qual- 
ity having a good heavy body and free to a certain extent 
from salt and water, so that the creaming up produces the 
proper lightness in the cake. This applies also to other fats. 
There are various grades of neutral fats and compounds on 
the market, but they are not all suitable for cake work. Best 
results are obtained from a fat which contains a very small 
amount of water and has a flexible, waxy feeling. 

In bakeries where butter is used with other fats, a good 
method is to blend butter and the other shortening in the 
dough mixer. This is best done by first placing the butter in 
a warm place to soften down to the consistency of the other 
fat, then mixing both fats. This will produce a uniform fat 
and make it better for creaming. In warm weather a firmer 
compound may be added to the butter. 

The proportion of butter and other fats may be changed 
as the prices permit. When using good butter, 

Don't use any other strong flavor to spoil the good flavor 
of butter. 

Don't forget to add salt if using a compound or neutral 
fat. Salt brings out the other flavors used and makes the 
cake more palatable. 

Naturally, if using butter which contains salt, less salt 
must be used in the goods, and the amount must be left to 
the discretion of the baker. Usually from V2 ounce to % 
ounce of salt may be used with every pound of saltless fats. 

Temperature of Materials 

Don't think that any old temperature may be used in 
mixing. Keep materials cool. Keep butter and other shorten- 
ing at a temperature of 45 to 55 degrees Fahr. ; such a tem- 
perature is desirable for fats and eggs. 

254 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



In creaming by hand or machine too much heat or a 
higher temperature is likely to make mix get heavy and 
curdle. Too cold milk also may cause curdling. If a mixture 
starts to curdle a small quantity of flour beaten in will help 
to restore it — it will cream up better. 

Don't guess in compounding a cake mixture. Be exact 
in weighing and measuring ingredients. Remember that 
conditions and material vary, and often a failure is caused by 
lack of knowledge. 

Don't fail to cream your shortening and sugar or shorten- 
ing and flour light enough, before adding the eggs ; and when 
adding eggs, add them as fast as they can be taken in with- 
out overbeating them at this stage. Then add flour without 
over-mixing. 

If using large quantities of milk and water, don't add it 
all at one time. Add a portion of the flour, cream that in 
well, then add part of the milk, then add the rest of the flour, 
then the rest of the milk. It makes quite a difference in the 
appearance of the cakes if this care is exercised. 

In scaling, off or dropping out cakes be exact. If any of the 
mixture is left, don't divide it between the rest of the cakes, 
rather make a small cake of it to obtain extra money for it. 

Don't count your eggs, weigh or measure them. This 
method is better for regular work. 

Don't over-flavor your cake; be careful with flavoring. 

Don't use a baking powder because it is cheap. Use the 
best on the market, or make your own baking powder. 

Don't use cheap spices ; use the best. 

Don't neglect to scrape down the sides of the bowl when 
mixing or when filling out the mixture. If scrapings are left 
to the last, they will show in the cakes, causing imperfections 
in the texture. 

In mixing cakes by the flour batter method and beating 
up egg with or without sugar separately, don't beat the eggs 
too light, only fairly light, or they will lose strength. Also, 
use less baking powder — less than when using the sugar and 
butter cream process. 

Don't neglect your oven. Watch the oven heat and note 
the time it takes to bake the different goods, because uneven 
baking causes as much trouble as uneven mixing. 

255 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



Don't forget that the larger the cakes are, the more 
protection they require in baking (in the way of wooden 
frames and thick layers of paper) ; also that for small cakes 
a higher degree of heat may be used than for the larger 
cakes. 

In making cakes which are sold by the cut, pound or 
slice, try to use a tin which makes cuts of a certain size, so 
there are no trimmings to cause waste. 

Don't disturb large cakes in the oven until they are prop- 
erly set. Always set your cakes in an even and straight 
position to prevent them from baking lop-sided, a condition 
which may be caused by uneven oven bottom. 

Don't make too many kinds of cakes all the time, but 
change varieties occasionally to be in accord with the season. 
A small variety of cakes is easier to make, can be produced 
with less waste, and it is easier to train help to make them 
right, and to watch the materials. 

Don't try to make too cheap a cake. The cake must be 
good — not only good enough. "Try to turn out better quality 
than bakers generally make. Many economies may be prac- 
ticed without lowering the quality of the cake. 

Don't think you can hold trade by starting to make a 
first-class product, and then lowering the grade. Rather hold 
up the quality and raise the price or change the size. 

Don't sell below cost. Make a profit on everything you 
sell, but be satisfied with a small profit. 

Don't forget that thought and system in working the 
various cakes saves money and fuel. By baking off the cakes 
which require a strong heat first, the oven will be suitable for 
the larger and richer cakes. 

Don't let a high-priced man do work that a boy can do — 
it is not economical. 

Selling Cakes 

Don't forget to display your goods always to best advan- 
tage. Never let your window display or your showcase have 
a rundown sort of appearance. Always keep your goods 
exhibited in an attractive manner. Have the shop and 
shelves as well as the goods invariably neat and clean and 
inviting. Change your display frequently, so it has always 

256 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



an appearance of freshness. Avoid sameness — always have 
something different. Small cakes should be packed in sym- 
metrical order on papered white tin pans stacked in pyramid 
fashion, and the pans refilled and rearranged if a part of the 
cakes are sold. Pains should also be taken to set out other 
varieties of cake to the best advantage. 

Don't neglect to mark your goods with neatly printed 
price cards giving the names they go by and the price they 
sell for. It facilitates selling in the rush hours, for customers 
know just what to ask for and just the amount to be paid for 
the different goods. Price cards are silent salesmen. They 
make the patrons familiar with the names of the different 
goods as well as their prices. 

In selling such goods as cream goods, which are apt to 
sour, if any are returned make good the loss. It will hold 
your customers. Remember, "the patron is always right." 

Don't be a stay-at-home. Visit other cities and bakeries 
to see and learn from others. Don't think you know it all. 
Keep an open mind, learn from others, and adapt the better 
way to your business wherever you can. 

ORNAMENTAL WORK 

A large decorated cake or a fancy window piece is always 
an attraction — especially if surrounded by a nice assortment 
of smaller fancy cakes skillfully arranged. The retail baker 
has the best opportunity to introduce new cakes to his cus- 
tomers. Something new and appetizing always attracts ; it is 
a great selling force, which attracts and holds new trade. 

A number of window show pieces are illustrated, several 
log cabin display pieces, and a variety of Christmas cake 
tops. 

Large display pieces can be made with^ little expense, 
using a dummy made of wood, tin or cardboard (or other com- 
bination), if only intended for display. These pieces keep 
well, and may be changed as occasion requires. There is such 
a large variety of smaller fancy cakes that the display may 
be changed and something different may be exposed for sale 
every day. A little care and time devoted daily to the display 
will prove of great value and stimulate the trade. It takes 
initiative and some effort to introduce something new, but 

257 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



it has been our experience that novelties and specialties and 
a frequent change in the goods are sure to bring results — 
not immediately, but gradually. 




Small cakes, such as layer cakes, made with various fillings 
and icings, are good sellers, and the variety of fillings and 
icings is so extensive (as may be seen in the special chapter 

258 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



on Icings and Fillings) that almost continuous changes of 
very attractive cakes can be made. Layer cakes of all kinds, 
made of white, yellow and dark mixtures, crumb cake, spice 
cake, chocolate cake and other cakes, put together in com- 
bination with one or several fillings made into one, if com- 
bined suitably, produce a variety of changes which are often 
highly appreciated by the public. Monotonous sameness of 




cakes, fillings and frostings is not conducive to large sales; 
and while it may be necessary to increase the price of deco- 
rated cake, it need not be too high to attract buyers. 

Nuts may be used sparingly, or may be mixed with 
browned cake crumbs for use on the. sides of cakes. White 
and chocolate fondant may be used for a thin covering; butter 
creams may be made less expensive by adding some good 
neutral nut butter. Most all cakes look better if their edges 

259 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



and sides are covered with chopped browned cocoanut or 
almonds, or coated with a thin jelly or syrup and covered with 
white cocoanut. The top finishings may be made plain in 
various colors, and trimmed with contrasting colors. Some 
of the cakes may be decorated with a little piping, others 
finished with chopped nuts or halves of nuts, or trimmed with 
pieces of cherries, angelica or jelly piping. 

Meringue and Almond Paste Decorations 

For large special tart cakes and how to finish them, see 
chapter on Special Layer Cakes and Tart Mixtures. Meringue 
and almond paste decorating make another pleasing variety; 

a stiff meringue for spreading on 
top and sides, with decoration of 
border and scrolls, using star tube, 
is quickly executed, leaving some 
open spaces in the center and be- 
tween the scrolls; the sides may 
be sprinkled with chopped nuts. 
The cake should be put in the 
oven, setting it on a board, just 
long enough to color nicely. When 
the cake has cooled, the spaces are 
filled in with jelly or fondant, or 
with a center of cherries and an- 
gelica. 

Almond paste, made like the 
fancy macaroon paste (given in another place) constitutes a 
very fine eating decoration, and may bs made to look as appe- 
tizing as it tastes. The paste may be spread on the sides of 
the cake and roughened with a fork. The border may be made 
in scroll shape, the center in lattice fashion, then lightly 
browned in the oven. When cold the panels may be filled with 
jellies, fondant or chocolate, and finished in various styles. 

There are many ways of decorating cakes, and the fashions 
are changing frequently. The suggestions given about decor- 
ating small cakes can be more elaborately applied for the 
larger cakes. In the chapter on tart cakes and layer cakes, 
the object in decorating has always been kept in mind. These 
cakes are decorated so that there is nothing on the cakes that 

260 




CAKES FOR BAKERS 



interfere with their eating quality. But there are styles of 
cakes (especially the wedding cakes) where this line is not 
drawn very closely, and artificial helps, such as gum paste 
ornaments and figures, artificial flowers, leaves, etc., are used 
for beautifying. These artificial ornaments are a great help 
to the less accomplished decorator. 




There are many branches of decorating work, such as the 
making of flowers from royal icing, gum paste, almond paste 
or boiled sugar ; gum paste work, skeleton piping and bobbinet 
work are used for making cake ornaments. Nougat and 
boiled sugar are also used for making castles, vases, or bas- 
kets ; other fancy pieces are made of meringue or spun sugar. 

It is advisable that all who wish to become expert in the 
art of decorating should learn a little free-hand drawing and 
study some books of designs, of which there are quite a good 
many. To acquire skill in the handling of the various orna- 

261 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



meriting tubes used for piping, a beginner may use a composi- 
tion of compound lard and flour, beating this up and keeping 
it in a cool place. This mixture may be used with a bag and 




tube, the same as royal icing, using a dummy form of wood, 
tin or cardboard. With the various tubes, fancy borders, 
scrolls, wreaths and leaves may be made, and the mixture can 




be used over and over again without loss of material. With a 
little skill and patience one will soon become expert in this 
work. ■ 

Gum Paste Work 
To make gum paste for ornamental work, put 4 ounces 
gum tragacanth into a jar, cover with water and let it soak 

262 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



for 24 hours, stirring occasionally so it may dissolve. Strain 
and twist through a cloth to remove all lumps, then mix with 
2 pounds icing sugar to a smooth paste. Take one-fourth of 
this paste and mix with 2 pounds icing sugar (or part starch) 
into a pliable paste, keeping it well covered. A variety of 
ornaments can be made from this paste. Planter of paris 
molds, sulphur molds, or rubber and tin forms, are used. The 
paste is pressed in the molds ; it dries in a short time, and 
keeps its shape well. The modeling is often done by hand, but 




such work requires much experience and practice. Flowers 
and figures are painted with colors diluted in syrup. Many 
of these ornaments are made in factories where this work is 
carried on in a practical manner. 

Making Medallions and Chocolate Centers 

Border and face casts for medallions are often made out 
of sulphur; they may also be bought from confectioners' 
supply houses. To make half casts for molding, the oiled 
object may be pressed half way down in soft plaster of paris 
and removed when the plaster hardens. But a better way to 

263 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 









264 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 





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265 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



make such casts is to take common potters' clay, and press 
half of the object into the clay, leaving exposed only the part 
of which the cast is to be made. Brush the exposed part with 
oil, place a frame around the object and pour in the plaster. 
The plaster must be prepared quickly by sprinkling the pow- 
der in cold water, stirring at the same time, till it form a 
thick, creamy mass; then pour it in the frame to surround 
and cover the object. For casting faces of coins and medal- 
lions, sulphur is often used. The sulphur is melted on a slow 
fire, the object oiled and the cast is made the same way as 
with plaster of paris. 

To Prepare Chocolate for Casting 

Take 2 pounds bitter chocolate, melt slowly with 1 pound 
cocoa butter, then stir in 3 pounds well-sifted icing sugar and 
some chocolate color to produce the desired shade. The molds 
must be perfectly clean and dry. Fill molds with the melted 
chocolate; let set in cool place for about two hours, then 
knock out of the molds. These may be made round, in 
horseshoe or in heart shape, and make very nice cake centers. 
The chocolate centers are usually varnished with a gum glac- 
ing made of 4 ounces gum benzoin and 12 ounces spirits, set 
in a warm place, and frequently shaken until dissolved. This 
glacing is applied with a soft brush and dries quickly. The 
different designs are decorated off the cake in many ways, in 
colors to suit. By setting the design in the center of the cake 
only a border and side decoration will be required, and the 
cakes may be quickly and effectively finished. Chocolate 
medallions are specially desirable for finishing Christmas 
cake, where only little time can be given to elaborate designs. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR LINE ORNAMENTING 

Almost everyone in the cake and fancy bakers' calling has 
had some experience in cornet work, called in Europe piping. 
All value the sundries related to ornamental work, which can 
be purchased from the supply houses, as they facilitate the 
decorative effect ; but I think nothing looks so artistic as free- 
hand line work done by one that has practiced it to some ex- 
tent, especially if it is done on tinted or chocolate ground. 
What I mean by tinted is royal or fondant frosting of appro- 

266 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



priate flavors and colors of light shade, such as orange, mocha 
(coffee cream), violet, pistache (pea green), rose pink and 
chocolate, light and dark. A practiced and steady hand can 
only produce exquisite results. The royal icing for such work 
must be light yet tough. Make it with as little acid as possi- 



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ble ; stir it up light while it is rather heavy, and reduce it with 
a few drops of white of egg as it comes to perfect whiteness 
and lightness. Too much acid in a frosting makes coarse 
porousness, which, when forced from th'e cornet causes the 
frequent breaks, so if you attempt this kind of work bear the 
process of making the frosting in mind ; start it pretty stout 
without acid, and beat it until it shows pretty white ; then add 

267 




268 




269 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



the rest of whites of egg by small quantities until it attains 
the desired lightness. 

On fondant and water-frosted cakes different colored fruit 
jellies, such as apple (white and pink), currant, apricot and 
green gage, when forced through a fine flour sieve, then run 
on to the cakes with a fine cornet, between the icing designs, 

CaKe Top 




Side J3cr&er, 

looks very rich if not overdone, also a judicious application of 
small silver dragees, or a few large, smooth sugared almonds, 
white, pink or blue, place symmetrically between the designs, 
give a very good effect; of course, if there were one hundred 
columns written and page after page drawn, the Held would 
not be exhausted, as one design is an inspiration to the next 

270 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



one, and so on, but the start is practice, experiment and perse- 
verance. These are the best teachers, with a good eye for 
form and design. Talent needs only a hint for development. 
Around the edge of the plate there are little sketches which 

from the simplest out- 

a — ^ — lj nes may j^ trans- 

formed into a great 
variety of designs. A, 
b, c and d show how 

f^f^/^/^f^/^^r^ry^ some strai ^ ht imes of 

^^LvJLrrV i^^uw X .; . Jt^X^Vi wLri*: just plain formation, 

though in varied thick- 
nesses, may be used to 
good effect. In Fig. 

)6^(T7)(T^(r^k--M ^^ i ^^-^-^ foliage effect is drawn 
i™^^i^^^^^^^^^^^ ~ on a scroll by starting 

pressure swelled, then 

$<^(^<^<g^®^<^^^* ended t0 a point When 

# - — ~— — ' ■ ,, " ^ l^___Z drawing a steady line 

or continuous vine — 

^ ti3BAi ? L 3 jiUi!i^Aj^^ hold the cornet at least 

three to four inches 

• ai^*g ^ above the board or 

* iL^^^gj^^^ov^^-^^^ cake, that is, after you 

have started with a 

' jgsgSgSgsKggg? point on the object - 

SKELETON PIPING, NET AND SCROLL WORK 

Very nice decorations may be made with this kind of 
piping, but some practice in piping is required to carry out 
the designs in detail. For the making of large pieces — such 
as houses, castles, etc., and other straight-sided ornamental 
work made for the show window — combinations of nougat, 
gum paste or even supports of wood are used. The design is 

271 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




272 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




273 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 




274 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 










***** 
#** 
♦ ** 

***** 




275 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



put together and covered with a thin-flowing icing, and when 
dry the piping is done to cover the supports. The objects to 
be piped are drawn on paper and laid under glass, or a baking 
pan is heated, rubbed over with white wax or paraffin and 
dusted with icing sugar, and the objects — such as scrolls, lat- 
tice or other designs — are drawn on. The design is then 
piped on with bag and tube and royal icing and left on the 
sheet to harden. It may then be easily removed by warming 
the sheet lightly, or simply by a slight jar. Then the objects 
may be set together with icing and small ornaments fastened 
on the cake with icing. 



An Easter Display 

Bobbinet work is done in a similar way; but there is less 
danger of breakage of the designs, because a white or pink 
gauze netting is Used, and the piping is done on this netting. 
For some pieces, the netting is cut close to the outlined object, 
so as to make it invisible; for other objects it is trimmed off 
closely with the scissors after the icing is dry. Very fine lace 
work can be done to make coronets, and a number of fancy 
scrolls, rolls or cylinders can be made by piping the objects 
on the gauze. Lay it flat on the table, then lift it quickly 

276 




277 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



while soft, laying it on a bent tin, rolling it around a broom 
stick or rolling pin — in fact, at any angle or shape desirable. 
By having several pieces of tin bent in a variety of curves or 
angles a great many ornaments may be executed readily. 

For some kinds of work, such as large scrolls, handles of 
baskets and other work, piping on both sides is required, if 
both sides are seen. Other work, like baskets and outside 
pieces (such as roofs, etc.), requires no duplicating. The 
sides of houses, etc., which are piped in lattice fashion, are 
best made with a strong supporting edge piping, which gives 
good support to the fine lattice piping. When making large 
or small scrolls to be set together for centers of an ornamental 
cake, these pieces are best piped on both sides; four or six 
are set together with icing. They may be placed upright 
around a center support which is set in the center of the cake. 
Large and small "S" and "C" scrolls may be set together in 
pyramid fashion, and the top finished with a few candy 
flowers and leaves in the form of a small bouquet. 

MAKING FLOWERS FROM ROYAL ICING, BOILED 
SUGAR OR GUM PASTE AND ALMOND PASTE 

There are special tubes which may be used to make flowers 
from royal icing. A pin-shaped nail with a flat or slightly 
concave head is made for this purpose, and may be bought 
from confectioners' supply houses. The icing is put in the 
cornet with the special leaf tubes used for the different 
flowers; the pin is taken in the left hand, the cornet in the 
right hand ; the center of the rose is formed with a star tube 
in the center of the pin's head ; the leaves are formed with the 
leaf tube. With the different tubes the leaves are made in 
different shapes. The trick of making the rose leaves lies 
in the turning of the nail. The nails are prepared by brush- 
ing with melted wax or paraffin and when the flowers are 
made they are stuck in a board of soft wood and left to dry. 

Flowers and Leaves from Boiled Sugar 

Sugar is boiled to the hard crack (or about 315 degrees 
Fahr.), taking 6 pounds sugar, 1 pound glucose, 1 quart of 
water, or (leaving out the glucose) 14 teaspoonful of cream 

278 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



of tartar. Pour out on the marble slab and when cool, cut 
in pieces. Melt a small portion on a slow fire. Use dry paste 
colors, and color each part of the sugar when the sugar is 
melted on the oiled slab. This work must be done near the 
gas stove or near the oven door, to keep the sugar in a 
pliable condition. 

Take a small part of the sugar and form in petals of 
flowers, cutting the shape with the scissors and pulling and 
shaping it with the fingers. After making the different sizes 
of petals they are formed and fastened around a center, to 
represent roses, tulips, calla lilies and other flowers and buds. 
For the leaves a part of the sugar is colored green, and the 
stems may be imitated with chocolate color. The petals may 
be made from yellow-colored sugar or from gum paste and 
then fastened by heating on the fire. To imitate nature, the 
flowers may be touched up and painted with a small camePs 
hair brush. Flowers may also be made from gum paste or 
from decorative almond paste, colored and molded by hand 
into leaves, and put together like flowers made from candy. 

Spun Sugar and Web Sugar 

This sugar is prepared in the same manner as for flowers 
and leaves. Scroll ornaments — vases and baskets and other 
large fancy pieces — are made from this sugar. Molds are 
used for vases and baskets and run on the inside or on the 
outside of the oiled forms in the form of lace work or lattice, 
and when almost cold or before it sets too hard, it is taken off 
the forms. For scrolls and handles, etc., the design is run on 
a pane of glass under which the paper design is placed, or the 
design is drawn first on the marble slab, oiled, and the sugar 
is poured on. The melted sugar is placed in a bowl-shaped 
spoon with a long spout, and the flow of the sugar is regu- 
lated by raising or lowering the spoon. The thickness of the 
thread depends on the state of the sugar. Complicated pieces 
are made in sections, which are put together when perfectly 
cold, and fastened together with sugar boiled to the caramel 
degree. The pieces may be further decorated with royal 
icing and candied fruit; other fruits, like grapes or cherries, 
may be dipped in sugar boiled to the caramel degree. Almonds 
and other nuts or slices of orange, etc., may be used to deco- 

279 



CAKES FOR BAKERS 



rate or fill the baskets. A good eye is essential in making 
fancy pieces of this kind ; certain lines of gracefulness must be 
studied ; dimensions and distances must be carefully observed 
in the various designs. Observation and love for art are the 
best teachers, and with application and patience a baker need 
not be a great draughtsman or sculptor to do this work. 



280 



INDEX 



PAGE 

Aerating Agents 15 

Albumen and Gum Icing 206 

Alexander Cheese Tartelet. . . 113 

Alliance Tart 116 

Alliance Torte 75 

Almonds, Blanching 164 

Almond Bars 136, 158 

Almond Bread 131 

Chocolate 131 

Almond Buns 185 

Almond Butter Cream "212 

Almond Cake 27 

Almond Chantilly Filling 216 

Almond Cocoanut Macaroons. 153 

Almond Cookies . 136 

Almond Crescents 158 

Almond Fingers 158, 161 

Almond Filling 181 

Almond Half Moons. . .144, 158, 168 

Almond Flavor Oil 25 

Almond Kisses 170 

Almond Macaroons 153 

Almond Marzipan Paste. .107, 260 

Almond Mocha 212 

Almond Paste 106, 278 

Almond Paste Filling, Soft. . . 181 

Almond Paste Goods 114, 164 

Almond Short Paste 106 

Almond Slices 160 

Almond Souffles 145 

Almond Stollen 179 

Almond Strips 140, 159 

Almond Torte 74 

Almond Wafers 140 

Almond Zwieback 187 

Altitude, Effects of 14 

Alumnettes 121 

American Cheese Filling, 

Tarts 116 

American Layer Mixtures .... 69 
American Sultana Scones .... 198 

American Tart Mixtures 69 

Ammonia 16 

Angel Cakes 64 

Angel Pistachio Filling 216 

Anise Drops or Fingers 143 

Anise Zwieback 187 

Apple Boats 110 

Apple Chantilly 110 

Apple Cream Tarts 110 

Apple Filling 218 

Apple Fruit Cake 52 



PAGE 

Apple Jelly and Jam 234 

Apple Pastries 109 

French 118 

Apple Tart 110 

French 110 

Apricot Pie 224 

Apricotine Filling 218 

Artificial Honey 146 

Ascot Tarts 116 

Assorted Nut Cakes 81 

Baking of Puff Pastry 98 

Baking Periods 22 

Baking Powder 15 

Baking Powder Tea Biscuit. . . 198 

Baking Temperatures 20 

Banana Pie 230 

Bars 

Almond 136 

Cocoanut 136, 138 

Nut 136 

Bath Buns 202 

Batons Amandes 158 

Royal 121 

Berlin Filling 217 

Berlin Fruit Filling 182 

Berry Pies, Dried 222 

Fresh 222 

Binders and Fillers, Ice Creams 243 

Birthday Cakes 44 

Biscuits, Baking Powder Tea. 198 

Yeast-raised 174 

Bismarcks 195 

Bisque Ice Cream 238 

Black Walnut Block 33, 83 

Black Walnut Cake 83 

Blanching Almonds 164 

Block Cakes 33, 83 

Blueberry Pie 223 

Boats, Apple 110 

Bobbinet Work 276 

Boiled Chocolate Icing 208 

Boiled Icing 208 

Boiled Sugar Decorations.... 278 

Bolivars 133 

Bombes Cerises 157 

Bombes Chocolate 157 

Bonne Bouchee au Chocolate. 159 
Bonne Bouchee a la Creme. . . . 159 

Boston Cream Pie 230 

Boston Lunch Cake 52 

Bouchee Cerises 157 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Bouchee Chocolate 157 

Bouchee Citron 157 

Bouchee de Oranges 157 

Bouchee Macedoine 157 

Bourbon Condes 121 

Bowl Mixtures 55, 65, 94 

Yellow 56 

Box Cakes 26 

Standard Mixtures 31 

White 26 

Yellow s . 30 

Bran Cookies 135 

Brandy Snaps — Wafers 142 

Braunschweiger Honey Cake. . 147 

Brazil Nut Cake 83 

Brick Ice Creams 241 

Bride's Cake, White 40 

Bridge Buns 202 

Brooklyn Bridge Buns 202 

Brown Cookies 130, 131 

Buckinghams 122 

Bundkuchen 178 

Bun Doughs 181, 185, 201 

Spice Flavoring for 184 

Buns, Almond 185 

Bath 202 

Bridge 202 

Brooklyn Bridge 202 

Citron 185 

Cocoanut 201 

Cream 163 

Currant 184 

Hot Cross 184 

Jelly 201 

Lemon ....185,201 

Orange '. 185 

Peanut 185 

Pecan Butter 189 

Philadelphia Butter 189 

Pineapple 185 

Plain Sweet Dough for... 181 

Rice 201 

Raspberry 201 

Self-Raising Flour for... 201 

Streusel 185 

Sultana 184, 201 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream .... 237 

Burnt Sugar Coloring 209 

Butter 254 

Butter Buns, Pecan 189 

Philadelphia 189 

Butter Cream Cakes 125 

Butter Cream Fillings 212 

Almond 212 

Chocolate 212 

Coffee < 212 

New York 212 



PAGE 

Vienna 212 

Butter Flavor Oils 24, 25 

Butter Jumbles 155 

Butter Rings 139 

Butter Sponge Cake 62 

Bowl Mixture 62, 65 

Cold Mixture 62 

Warm Mixture 62 

Tart Cake 70 

Layers 70 

Vienna 62 

Butter Streusel 183 

Buttermilk Crullers 194 

Buttermilk Fried Cakes 194 

Butterscotch Cookies 153 

Butterscotch Pie 229 

Butterscotch Wafers 142 

Cairo Filling 217 

Cake Covering, Marzipan.... 107 

Cake Machines 19 

Cake Materials, Buying 253 

Cake Making Don'ts 253 

Cake Pans 23 

Cakes for Large Institutions. 93 

Cakes for Special Occasions.. 38 

Canned Fruit, for Pies 221 

Camelina Filling 216 

Caramel Coloring 209 

Caramel Filling 216 

Caramel Icing 206 

Carnival Tartelet Cases 107 

Double 108 

Fried 196 

Meringue 172 

Ready-made 109 

Roman 196 

Single 108 

Tart 107,172 

Cats' Tongues 140 

Champagne Strips or Wafers. 140 

Chantilly Cream Slice 161 

Chantilly Filling, Almond 216 

Charleston Filling 217 

Cheese Cake 188 

English 113 

Cheese Cake Filling, Plain 113 

Cheese Filling 183 

Cheese Tart, English 113 

German 115 

Cheese Tartlet, Alexander. . . . 113 

Cherry Cakes 30 

Cherry Pie : 223 

Mock : 223 

Cherry Tartlets Ill 

Chocolate Almond Bread 131 

Choc. Almond Cake, French.. 68 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Chocolate Block Cake 30 

Chocolate Bonne Bouchee. .157, 159 

Chocolate Centers 263, 266 

Chocolate Cocoanut Macaroons 168 

Chocolate Cookies 135 

Chocolate Cream Cakes ' 70 

Chocolate Cream Pie 229 

Chocolate Cup Cake 85 

Chocolate Custard Pie 227 

Chocolate Drops 142 

Chocolate Honey Cake 149 

Chocolate Ice Cream 236 

Chocolate Icing 206, 208 

Chocolate Jumbles 139 

Chocolate Macaroons 165 

Chocolate Macaroon Tarts. . . . 114 
Chocolate Macaroon Torte .... 74 

Chocolate Meringue 170 

Chocolate Mocha 79, 212 

Chocolate Mocha Cake 79 

Chocolate Roll 55 

Sacher Mixture 69 

Chocolate Sauce, Cold 239 

Chocolate Slices 160 

Chocolate Souffles 145 

Chocolate Sponge Cakes 64 

Chocolate Stock Icing 206 

Chop Suey (Tutti Frutti) 

Cake 90 

Choux (Cream Buns) 162 

Choux Farcis 163 

Christmas Cakes 48, 144 

Christmas Fruit Cakes 50 

Cinnamon Sticks 144 

Cinnamon Streusel Coffee 

cake 187 

Citron Buns 185 

Citron Meringue 170 

Citron Pound Cake 36 

Citronettes 117 

Cobblestones (Pflastersteine) . 150 

Cocoanut Bars 136 

Eggless 137 

Cocoanut Buns 201 

Cocoanut Cookies 135 

Cocoanut Cream Pie 228 

Cocoanut Crescents 130,168 

Cocoanut Custard Pie 227 

Cocoanut Drops 144, 154 

Cocoanut Drop Cookies 138 

Cocoanut Fingers 161 

Cocoanut Kisses 169 

Soft 170 

Cocoanut Macaroons . ". 168 

Macaroons, Almond 153 

Chocolate 168 

Cold Mixture 169 



PAGE 

Cocoanut Macaroon Tart 114 

Cocoanut Meringue, Jellied... 170 

Cocoanut Pudding 232 

Cocoanut Slices 160 

Coco-Butters 138 

Coffee-Cake Doughs 176, 181 

Coffee-Cakes 187 

Fruit 187 

Coffee Cookies 1^3 

Coffee Ice Cream 236 

Coffee Mocha Cream 212 

Coloring, Burnt Sugar 209 

Colors for Icings 209 

Combination Fruit Pies 230 

Commercial Apple Jelly 234 

Commercial Cakes 33 

Cone Wafers, Ice Cream 142 

Cones, Swedish Rolled 141 

Confectioners' Short Pastes. . 106 

Congress Tart Fillings 114 

Cookies or Hard Cakes 128 

Machine-made 152 

Corn Syrup Cookies 156 

Cornucopias 119 

Cranberry Pie 223 

Cream Baskets 159 

Cream Buns 163 

Cream Cakes, Chocolate 70 

Cream Drops, Vanilla 143 

Cream Fingers 185 

Cream of Tartar 15 

Cream Pies, Boston 230 

Pies, Chocolate 229 

Pies, Cocoanut 228 

Pies, Fruit 229 

Pies, Washington 230 

Cream Puffs 101,162 

Pastes for 100 

With Whipped Cream 163 

Cream Rolls 119, 185, 186 

Twisted 186 

Cream Scones 199 

Cream Slices 118,161 

Cream Tarts, Apple 110 

Lemon 117 

Cream Wafers 141 

Crescents 120 

Almond 158 

Cocoanut 130,168 

Crescent Rolls 186, 191 

Croix de Malta 122 

Croquant Paste 104 

Crullers or Spritzkuchen 102 

Buttermilk 194 

Hand-made 194 

Crumb Cakes 90 



INDEX— ^Continued 



PAGE 

Fruit 90 

Lincoln 93 

Molasses 89 

Oriental Fruit 89 

Washington 93 

Crumb Cookies 133, 152 

Eggless 130 

Ginger Snaps 139 

Crumb Filling, Soft 181 

Crumb Layer Cakes 89 

Crumb Pies 93 

Crumb Rings, Spiced 140 

Crumb Tarts, Spiced. 117 

Fillings 89,114 

Crushed Fruit Fillings 219 

Cup Cakes 27,92,93,252 

Cup Cakes, Chocolate 85 

Crumb 90 

Crumb Spice .85 

Jellied 85 

Lunch 84 

Orange 84 

Spiced 85 

Vanilla 84 

Currant Buns 184 

Custard or Pastry Cream. . . . 213 

Custard Pies 226 

Bottom Crust 100 

Chocolate 227 

Cocoanut 227 

Dairy Cream Pie 229 

Danish Pastries 177, 190 

Danish Pastry Dough 177 

Darioles 124 

Dark Fruit Bars 136 

Dark Fruit Cake 36, 49 

Dark Fruit Cookies 134 

Date Pudding 232 

Decorating Cakes 257 

Decorations, Meringue and 

Paste 260 

Decorative Paste, Almond, 

Marzipan 107 

Delicate Cake 28 

Demi-Lunes Amandes . 130, 158, 168 
Desdemonas and Othellos.... 157 

Devil's Food Cake 79 

Dietetic Bran Wafers 142 

Displaying Small Goods. . .252, 256 

Dominoes 144 

Don'ts — Cake Baking and 

Making 253 

Doughs, Bun 181, 185, 201 

Coffee Cake Special 176 

Honey 146 

Quickly Made Pastry 177 

Rolled in Pastry 176 



PAGE 

Standard Sweet 175 

Yeast-raised 174 

Zwieback 180 

Doughnuts, Yeast-raised 195 

Dresden Torte 72 

Dried Berry Pie with Filler. . 222 

Dried Fruit, Pie Stock 221,222 

Drop Cakes 85, 137 

Chocolate 142 

Drop Cakes, Ginger 137 

Molasses 137 

Spice Sponge 137 

Yellow 138 

Drop Cookies, Cocoanut 138 

Drops, Anise 143 

Chocolate 142 

Cocoanut 144, 154 

Patience 143 

Rose 143 

Vanilla Cream 143 

White 143 

Duchess Cake, White 81 

Duchess Torte 72 

Dutch Macaroons 166 

Easter Eggs, Meringue 171 

Eclairs 162 

Eclair Farcis 163 

Eggless Cake Mixtures. 156 

Eggless Cocoanut Bars 137 

Eggless Crumb Cookies 130 

Eggless Gingerbread 87 

With Crumbs 87 

Eggless Ginger Snaps 139 

Eggless Jumbles 139 

Eggless Marshmallow Filling. 211 

Eggs and Their Use 12 

Elisen Lebkuchen 149 

English Cheese Cake 113 

English Cheese Tarts 113 

English Lemon Butter 214 

English Muffins 200 

English Sultana Scones 199 

English Walnut Cake 33, 83 

Florentines 122 

Fancy Cakes 249 

Fancy Cakes, Small. . .127, 142, 157 

Fancy Kisses 169 

Fancy Macaroons 166 

Fancy Macaroon Paste 105 

Fancy Scones 199 

Fancy Slices and Strips 160 

Fans 120 

Fig Bars 130 

Fig Newtons 130 

Fig Pudding 232 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Figures ana" Animals 151 

Honey Dough for 151 

Patience 143 

Filbert Ice Cream 238 

Filbert Meringues 170 

Filbert Tart 114 

Filled Fruit Rings 188, 191 

Filled Honey Cakes 150 

Filled Rings 188 

Fillers, Ice Cream 243 

Pie 220 

Fillings and Icings 203 

Fillings for Cakes.. 81, 203, 212, 213 

Fillings, Household 216 

Filling for Honey Cakes 150 

Ready-to-Use 209 

Fillings, Pie 221 

Fillings, Yeast-Raised Dough. 181 

Finger Biscuits 60 

Fingers, Almond 158, 161 

Anise 143 

Cocoanut 161 

Cream 185 

Lady 60 

Macaroon 166 

Finishing Rolls, Many Ways 56 
Finishing Tarts and Layer 

Cakes 71 

Flavoring of Fruit Pies 221 

Flavorings 24 

Fleurons and Rosettes 122 

Florodora Filling 215 

Floral Meringues 172 

Florence Cake — white or yel- 
low '. 80 

Florentines 122 

Flour, Self-Raising 16, 201 

Flours, Variation in 11 

Flour-Batter Method 18 

Flower Decorations, Making. . 278 

Fondant Making 204 

Imitation 205 

Form Cakes 178 

Freezing Ice Cream 242 

French Apple Tarts 110 

French Chocolate Almond 

Cake 68 

French Chocolate 68 

French Fried Cakes 102 

French Gateau Mixtures 65 

French Honey Cake 148 

French Macaroon Tart 115 

French Macaroon Torte 75 

French Pastries 118 

French Pastry Dough 177, 190 

Fresh Fruit Pies 222 

Fried Cakes 192 



PAGE 

Fried Cakes, Buttermilk 194 

French 102,195 

Hand-Made 194 

Machine-Made 194 

Vienna 195 

Yeast-Raised 192,195 

Fried Cases 196 

Fried Spring Waffles 196 

Frozen Fruit Salad 241 

Frozen Puddings 239 

Frozen Punches 241 

Fruit and Nut Filling 182 

Fruit and Nut Rolls 189 

Fruit Bars, Dark 136 

Fruit Bars, Lemon 136 

Fruit Bars, Oriental 137 

With Crumbs 136 

Fruit Cakes 36, 41, 50 

Apple 52 

Crumb 90 

Dark 36, 49 

Heavy 36 

Light 36, 52 

Low Priced 52, 94 

Mixed 53 

Standard . 50 

With Dry Milk 51 

With Molasses 51, 88 

Fruit, Coffee-Cakes 187 

Fruit Cookies 130, 132, 153 

Dark 134 

Fruit Cream Pie 229 

Fruit Crumb Cake, Oriental . . 89 

Fruit Fillings , 183 

Crushed 219 

With Gelatine 218 

With Nuts 182,183,218 

Fruit Glacing 183 

Fruit Ices and Sherbets 239 

Fruit Jam 234 

Fruit Loaf, Molasses 51, 52, 88 

Fruit, Macedoine of 241 

Fruit, Modeling 167 

Fruit Pies 221 

Combination 230 

Flavoring *. . . 221 

Fruit Salad, Frozen 241 

Fruit Sherbet 239 

Fruit Slab, Standard 32 

Fruit Tarts Ill 

Fruit Puddings 232 

Fruit Rings, Filled 189, 191 

Fruits, Modeled 167 

Gateaux Cerises ( Cherry 

Cakes) 158 

Gateau or Genoa Slab 66 



lNDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

General Suggestions 11 

Genoa Cake 52 

Slab 66 

Sultana 53 

With Fruit 66 

Gingerbreads 86 

Crumb 87 

Eggless 87 

Loaf 88 

Raisin 88 

Southern 87 

Ginger Cakes 88 

Ginger Cookies 133,155 

Ginger Drop Cakes 137 

Ginger Drops, Soft 137 

Ginger Nuts, Fine 131 

Ginger Poundcake 88 

Ginger Snaps 155 

To Drop Out 138 

With Crumbs, Eggless... 139 

Glacings, Cake 183 

Fruit 183 

Macaroons 106 

Gold Cake 32 

Golden Cake 32 

Golden Rod Cake 84 

Golden Rolls 185 

Gooseberry Pie 222 

Graham Cookies . 135 

Grand Duchess Cake 81 

Gum Icing 206 

Gum Paste 104,278 

Half Moons 144, 158, 168 

Hamburg Zwieback 186 

Hand-Made Fried Cakes 194 

Hand-Made Crullers 194 

Hand Mixing 17 

Hard Cakes 128 

Hard Fancy Cakes, Small 142 

Hazelnut (Filbert) Ice Cream 238 

Hazelnut Tart 114 

Hermits 134, 137 

Hickory Nut Cake 37 

Honey, Artificial 146 

Honey Cakes 145 

Braunschweiger 147 

Iced 154 

Cakes, Chocolate 149 

Cakes, Filled 150 

Filling 150 

French 148 

Macaroon 150 

Spice Mixture for 146 

Swiss 148 

Thick 147 

Honey Cookies 133 



PAGE 

Imitation % 134 

Honey Doughs * 146, 147 

Honey and Sugar Doughs. . . . 147 

Honey Dough for Figures.... 151 

Honey Jumbles 153 

Floney Wafers 142 

Horseshoes .....' 120 

Hot Cross Buns 184 

Hot Water Sponge Cake 62 

Household Fillings 216 

Hungarian Zwieback 187 

Ice Creams and Ices. 236 

Binders and Fillers 243 

Cream Cake 37 

Cone Wafers 142 

Freezing 242 

Freezing Mixture 242 

Sandwich Wafers 141 

Standard Formulas 236 

Iced Honey Cakes 154 

Icings 203 

Albumen 206 

Boiled 208 

Caramel 206 

Chocolate 206, 208 

Colors for 209 

Fondant 204 

Gum 206 

Maple 207 

Marble . 82 

Royal 208 

Special 209 

Stock 204 

Sugarless 156 

Water 207 

White Stock 205 

Imitation Fondant 205 

Imitation Honey Cookies 134 

Individual Cakes, Small 84 

Invert Sugar Honey 146 

Irish Sodas 199 

Jam Making 233 

Jam Roll 189 

Jellied Cocoanut Meringue... 170 

Jellied Cup Cakes 85 

Jellied Pie 229 

Jellies 232 

Jelly Balls, Yeast-Raised 195 

Jelly Buns 201 

Jelly Macaroons 165 

Jelly Rings 139 

Jelly Roll 54, 91 

Low-Priced 94 

Jumbles 138 

Butter 155 

Chocolate 139 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Egg-less 139 

Honey 153 

Mixed 155 

Molasses 155 

"S" 139 

Spiced 155 

Vanilla 139 

Wafer 140 

Kernel Paste Tarts 114 

King of Cakes 77 

Kisses, Almond 170 

Cocoanut 169 

Cocoanut, Soft 170 

Pistachio 170 

Lady Baltimore Cake 44, 80 

Lady Baltimore Filling 217 

Lady Cake 42 

Lady Cake with Fruit 41 

Lady Fingers 60 

Large Cakes 33 

Layer Cakes 54, 70, 80, 91, 92 

American Mixtures 69 

Butter Sponge 70 

Crumb 89 

Finishing 71 

Small 27 

Special Mixtures 65 

Sponge 91 

White 29 

Yellow 91 

Lebkuchen, Elisen 149 

Nuremberg 148 

White 149 

Leckerle, Nuremberg 148 

Lemon Buns 185, 201 

Lemon Butter, English 214 

Lemon Cookies 132 ; 155 

Lemon Cream Tarts 117 

Lemon Cream Torte 73 

Lemon Filling 214 

Lemon Flavor Oil 25 

Lemon Fruit Bars 136 

Lemon Ice, Standard 239 

Lemon Macaroons 165 

Lemon Pies 227 

Covered 228 

Cream 228 

Lemon Pudding 232 

Lemon Sherbet 240 

Lemon Snaps 138 

Lemon Wafers 140 

Light Cookies 152 

Light Fruit Cake 52 

Lincoln Crumb Cake or Pie. . 93 

Line Ornamenting 266 



PAGE 

Loaf Cakes 26, 92 

Small 27, 53 

White 28 

Log Cabin Cookies 134 

London Filling 217 

Low- Priced Cakes 93 

Lunch Cakes, Boston 52 

Lunch Cup Cakes 84 

Lunch Room Rolls 57 

Macaroons 164 

Macaroons, Chocolate 165 

Chocolate Cocoanut 168 

Cocoanut 153, 168 

Dutch 166 

Fancy 166 

Glazing for 106 

Jelly 165 

Lemon 165 

Orange 165 

Plain 164 

Macaroon Fingers 166 

Macaroon Honey Cake 150 

Macaroon Pastes 104 

Tarts 114 

Macaroon Torte 74 

Almond Paste 114 

Chocolate 74 

French 75 

Macedoine, Bouchee 157 

Macedoine of Fruit 241 

Machine-Dropped Fried Cakes 194 

Machine-Made Cookies 152 

Machine Mixing 17 

Machine Sponge Cake ........ 62 

Machines, Cake 19 

Madeira Cake 53 

Madelines 158 

Maltese Cross 122 

Maple Icing 207 

Mapleine Filling 218 

Marble Cake 27, 81 

Marble Icing 82 

Marguerite Filling 218 

Torte 73 

Marshmallow Filling 210 

Eggless 211 

Slices 162 

Martha Washington Pie 230 

Marzipan Paste 107 

Almond 107,260 

Modeled Fruits 167 

Materials, Buying 11, 253 

Materials, Temperature 254 

Medallions and Chocolate Cen- 
ters 263 



INDEX— Continued 



PAGE 
Meringues and Fancy Kisses. . 169 
Meringue Animals and Figures 172 
Meringue Apples and Pears. . 170 

Meringue Baskets 171 

Meringue, Chocolate 170 

Citron 170 

Cocoanut 170 

Decorating 260 

Easter Eggs 171 

Filbert 170 

Floral 172 

Jellied Cocoanut 170 

Orange 170 

Meringue Pastes 102 

Heavy Boiled 103, 104 

Hot 103 

Light Boiled 103 

Standard Cold 103 

Meringue Shells 171 

Meringue Slices 162 

Meringue Tarts 172 

Meringue Tart Cases 172 

Meringue Torte 75 

Metropolitan Tart 115 

Metropolitan Torte 73 

Mille Feuille 122 

Mincemeats 224 

Mock 225 

Mince Pie 224 

Mirlitons 124 

Miscellaneous Cakes 77 

Mixed Fruit Cake 53 

Mixed Jumbles 155 

Mixing, Hand or Machine.... 17 

Mixing of Fried Cakes 193 

Mixing Pie Crusts 99 

Mocha Creams 79, 212 

Mocha Cream Cakes 78, 125 

Mocha, New York 212 

Mocha Slices 160, 161 

Mocha Torte 72 

Mock Cherry Pie 223 

Mock Mince Pie. 225 

Modeled Fruits 167 

Modeling Paste 167 

Small Cakes From 167 

Molasses Cakes 86 

Molasses Cookies 132 

Molasses Crumb Cake 89 

Molasses Cup Cake 88 

Molasses Drop Cakes 137 

Molasses Fruit Loaf .. .51, 52, 88 

Molasses Jumbles 155 

Monte Carlos 121 

Mousseline Sauce 239 

Muffins, English 200 

Mushrooms . . . .' 171 



PAGE 

Napoleons 118 

Neapolitan Cake 65, 76, 84 

Neapolitan Filling 217 

Nesselrode Ice Cream 238 

Net and Scroll Work 271 

New York Ice Cream 237 

New York Mocha Butter Cream 212 

Noisettes 117 • 

Nougat Ice Cream 237 

Nuremberg Lebkuchen 148 

Nuremberg Leckerle 148 

Nut Bars 136 

Nut Block Cakes 33 

Nut Cake Mixture for Torten 68 

Nut Cakes, Assorted 81 

Brazil, etc 83 

Nut Fillings 181, 182, 185 

Nut Fillings, Fruit 182 

Spiced 181 

Torten 75 

Nut Poundcakes 37 

Nut Roll 189 

Nut Roll, with Fruit. 189 

Nut Slab 30 

Nut Slices 160 

Nut Torte 74 

Oatmeal Cookies . 132 

Spiced 154 

Ohio Orange Cake 63 

Oils for Flavoring 25 

Open Fruit Tarts 112 

Orange Buns 185 

Orange Cakes, Ohio 63 

Orange Cup Cake 64 

Orange Flavor Oil 25 

Orange Macaroons 165 

Orange Meringue 170 

Orange Cream Torte 73 

Orange Cream Pie 228 

Orange Filling 214 

Orange Pies 227 

Orange Poundcake 37 

Orange Pudding 232 

Orange Torte, Special 74 

Orange Water Ice (Sherbet).. 240 

Oriental Cocoanut Drops 154 

Oriental Fruit Bars 137 

Oriental Fruit Crumb Cake.. 89 

Ornamental Work 257 

Ornamenting, Line 266 

Othellos and Desdemonas 157 

Palm Leaves 120 

Panier Chantilly (Cream Bas- 
kets) ,.. 159 

Panier en Genoise..... 159 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Pans for Cake Baking 23 

Parisienne Torte 73 

Parisiennes 120 

Parmesans 123 

Paste, Almond Marzipan 260 

Almond Short 106 

Confectioners' 106 

Croquant 104 

Gum 104 

Kernel 114 

Macaroon 104, 164 

Making 95 

Marzipan 107 

Meringue 102 

Modeling 167 

Puff 96 

Short 106 

Tragacanth 104 

Pastes for Borders 102 

Pastes for Cream Puffs 101 

Pastillage 104 

Pastry Cream for Filling 213 

Pastry Doughs, Danish 177 

French 177 

Puff, Making of 95 

Rolled-in 176 

Swedish 177 

Yeast-raised 174 

Patience Drops or Figures .... 143 

Patty Shells 107 

Double Case 108 

Single case 108 

Peach Ice 240 

Peach Pie 224 

Peach Meringue Pie 230 

Peanut Buns 185 

Peanut Cookies 135 

Peanut Slices 131 

Peach Carnival 112 

Pecan Butter Rolls 189 

Pecan Cake 83 

Peppernuts 150, 151 

Pflastersteine 150 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 189 

Phosphate Powders 16 

Pies and Pie Making 220 

Pie a la Mode 230 

Pie Crusts, mixing 99 

Pie Doughs, Making 98 

Pie Fillers 220 

Pie Fillings 221 

Pie Paste, Bottom Crusts 100 

Pie Paste, Top Crust 99 

Pie Paste, Mixing 99 

Pie Stock, Dried Fruit 221, 222 

Canned Fruit 221 



TAGE 

Pineapple Buns 185 

Pineapple Cake Filling 215 

Pineapple Ice (Sherbet) 240 

Pineapple Pies 224 

Cream 228 

Meringue 228 

and Strawberry Pie 224 

Piping, Skeleton , 271 

Pistachio Filling, Angel 216 

Pistachio Ice Cream 238 

Pistachio Kisses 170 

Pistachio Nut Cakes 83 

Plain Sweet Dough for Buns. . 181 

Plum Puddings 231 

Frozen 239 

Poppy Seed Fillings 182 

Poppy Seed Tarts 116 

Poundcakes 33, 34 

Citron 36 

Ginger 88 

Nut 37 

Old-time 35 

Orange 37 

Plain 37 

Special 35 

Sultana 37 

White 42 

Poundcake with Milk 35 

with Baking Powder 35 

Preparing Cakes for Sale 247 

Preparing Rhubarb 224 

Preserving 232 

Pressburg Zwieback 187 

Pretzels or Figures of Eight 

120, 189 

Prince Henry Layer Cake 80 

Princess Fruit Filling 183 

Prune Pie 222 

Puddings 231 

Frozen 239 

Fruit 232 

Plum 232, 239 

Royal 239 

Puff Paste making 95 

Quickly Made 97 

Trimmings 98 

Puff, Small Pastry Baking of . . 98 

Pumpkin Pies 226 

Fresh and with Dry Milk. 226 

Punches, Frozen 241 

Queen Torte 72 

Quickly-made Pastry Dough. . 177 

Quickly-made Puff Paste 97 

Raisin Coffeecake 188 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Raisin Gingerbread 88 

Raisin Pie Filling 222 

Raspberry Buns 201 

Raspberry Ice 240 

Raspberry Meringue Tart.... 172 

Ready-made Cases 109 

Ready-to-use Fillings 209 

Rhubarb Pie 223 

Preparing Filling 224 

Riehelieus 121 

Richelieu Tart 117 

Rice Buns 201 

Rings, Filled Fruit 189, 191 

Rings, Jelly 139 

Rings, Twisted 139 

Rissoles 119, 190 

Roll Cakes 54 

Chocolate 55 

Finishing 56 

Lunch Room 57 

Sponge 55, 91 

Swiss 55 

Rolled-in Pastry Dough 176 

Rolled Wafers 140, 142 

Rolls Cream 185, 186 

Crescent 186, 191 

Golden 185 

Jam 189 

Nut and Fruit 189 

Pecan Butter 189 

Philadelphia Butter 189 

Swedish 190 

Turkish 191 

Roman Cases 196 

Rose Drops 143 

Rose Souffles 145 

Rosettes 122 

Rough-and-Readys 134 

Round Coffee Cake 188 

Royal Batons 121 

Royal Cake 77 

Royal Ice Cream 239 

Royal Icing 208, 278 

Royal Pudding 239 

"S" Jumbles 139 

Sacher Mixture, Swiss Choc. . 69 

Salt Pretzels 

Sand Cakes 67 

Heavy Mixture 68 

Light Mixture 68 

Torten 67 

Sauce Mousseline 239 

Scotch Cookies 153 

Scotch Shortbread 129 

Scones, American Sultana.... 198 

Cream 199 



PAGE 

English Sultana 199 

Fancy 199 

Fancy Sultana 200 

Scotch 199 

Self-Raising Flour 199 

Tea 200 

Scotch Scones (Irish Sodas) . . 199 

Scrolls 191 

Scroll Work 271 

Selection of Materials 11 

Self-Raising Flour 16 

for Buns 201 

Selling Cakes 256 

Sheet Cakes 70, 93 

Sherbets, Fruit 239 

Shortbreads, Scotch 129 

Small Fancy 129 

Shortcake 92 

Biscuit Mixture 93 

Shortenings 14, 254 

Short Pastes for Tarts 106 

Almond 106 

Confectioners 106 

Short Paste, Small Fancy 

Cakes 127, 157 

Silver Cake 26, 81 

Silver Slice 26 

Simple Syrup 244 

Single Case Patty 108 

Skeleton Piping 271 

Slab Cakes 26 

Cherry 30 

Nut 30 

Small 27, 6Q 

Standard Fruit 32 

White Fruit 30 

Yellow 91 

Slices, Almond 160 

Chocolate 160 

Cocoanut 160 

Cream 118, 161 

Fancy 160 

Macaroon 161 

Marshmallow 162 

Meringue 162 

Mocha 160, 161 

Nut 160 

Peanut 131 

Small Fancy Cakes 127, 157 

Modeling Paste 167 

Short Paste 127 

Small Fancy Shortbreads 129 

Small Goods, Displaying 252 

Small Hard Fancy Cakes 142 

Small Puff Pastries and Tarts 123 

Snails 191 

Snaps, Jumbles and Wafers . . 138 



INDEX^Continued 



PAGE 

Snaps, Ginger 138, 139 

Lemon 138 

Soda, Bicarbonate of 15 

Sodas, Irish 199 

Soft Almond Paste Filling 181 

Soft Cocoanut Kisses 170 

Soft Crumb Filling 181 

Soft Ginger Cookies 133 

Soft Ginger Drops 137 

Souffles, Almond 145 

Chocolate 145 

Rose 145 

Vanilla 143 

Southern Gingerbread 87 

Spanish Box Cake 32 

Spanish Cookies 135 

Special Butter Cream Fillings 212 

Special Cakes 38 

Special Coffeecake Doughs... 176 

Special Icings 209 

Special Layer Cake Mixtures. . 65 

Special Orange Torts 74 

Special Pies 229 

Special Poundcake 35 

Special Tart Mixtures 65 

Spiced Crumb Rings 140 

Spiced Crumb Tarts 117 

Spiced Cup Cakes 85, 88 

with Crumbs 85 

Spice Drop Cakes 137 

Spice Flavoring, Buns 184 

Spiced Jumbles 155 

Spice Mixtures for Cakes. .25, 146 
Spiced Molasses Fruit Crumb 

Cake 89 

Spiced Nut Filling 181 

Spiced Oatmeal Cookies 154 

Sponge Cake 58 

Butter Sponge 62 

Chocolate Sponge, Bowl 

Mixture 63, 64 

Hot Water 62 

Machine made 62 

Plain 61 

Small 127 

Victory 63 

Water 61 

Sponge Drop Cakes 86 

Sponge Layer Cake 91 

Sponge Roll 55, 91 

Springerle 144 

Spritzkuchen 102 

Spun Sugar 279 

Squash Pies 226 

Standard Box Cake Mixtures. . 31 

Standard Christmas Cake 50 

Standard Fruit Pudding 232 



PAGE 

Standard Fruit Slabs 32 

Standard Formulas, Ice Cream 

236, 237 

Standard Lemon Water Ice. . . 239 
Standard Spice Mixture, Honey 

Cakes 146 

Standard Sweet Doughs 175 

St. Honore Tart 102, 115 

Sticks, Cinnamon 144 

Stock Doughs, Coffeecake. 176, 181 

Honey 146 

Stock Icings 204 

Stollen 179, 188 

Almond 179 

Best Grade 179 

German 179 

How to Make 179 

Plain Sweet Dough 180 

Storks Nests 196 

Strawberry Ice 240 

Strawberry Meringue Pie 230 

Strawberry Meringue Tart. . . 172 
Strawberry and Pineapple Pie 224 

Strawberry Shortcake 92 

Strawberry Tartlets Ill 

Streusel . 183 

Buns 185 

Coffeecake 187 

Strips, Almond 140, 159 

Champagne 140 

Fancy 160 

Macaroon 161 

Sugar, Spun 279 

Web 279 

Sugar-Boiling Degrees 244 

Sugar Cookies 131, 152 

Sugar Honey . 146 

Sugarless Cookies (Corn 

Syrup) 156 

Sugarless Icing 156 

Sugars and Syrups 13 

Suggestions, General 11 

Sultana Buns 184, 201 

Sultana Genoa Cake 53 

Sultana Poundcake 37 

Sultana Scones 198, 199, 200 

Sunshine Cakes 64 

Swedish Pastries 177, 190 

Swedish Pastry Dough 177 

Swedish Rolls 190 

Swedish Rolled Wafers, Cones 141 

Sweet Doughs, Standard 175 

Swiss Chocolate Sacher Mix- 
ture 69 

Swiss Honey Cake 148 

Swiss Roll 55 

Syrup Cookies 156 



INDEX-^Continued 



PAGE 

Syrup Crumb Cookies 152 

Syrups 13,- 236, 244 

Talmouses 123 

Tapioca Pie Filler 220 

Tarts and Tartlets Ill 

American Mixtures 69 

Apple 110 

Apple Cream 110 

Ascot 116 

Congress Fillings 89, 114 

Finishing 71 

Lemon Cream 117 

Cases 107, 172 

Cheese 113, 115, 116 

Macaroon 74 

Mixtures 65 

Nut Mix for 68, 74 

Open Fruit 112 

Pastes 102, 106 

Poppy Seed 116 

Queen 72 

Richelieu 117 

Short Paste for 106 

Small 106 

Special Mixtures 65 

Tin and Forms 71 

Tumble 116 

Vienna Mixtures 66 

Tartlet, Alexander Cheese. . . . 113 

Carnival Ill 

Strawberry Ill 

Tart Paste for Borders 102 

Tea Biscuits, Baking Powder. . 198 

Yeast-raised 198 

Tea Cookies 136 

Tea Scone 200 

Temperatures, Baking 20 

For Honey Materials 254 

Timbales, or Fried Cases 196 

Torten 72, 188 

a la Conde 73 

Alliance 75 

Almond 74 

Chocolate 74 

Dresden 72 

Duchess 72 

Lemon Cream 73 

Macaroon 73, 74 

Marguerite 73 

Meringue 75 

Metropolitan 73 

Mocha 72 

Nut 74, 75 

Nut Cake Mixture 68 

Orange Cream 73 

Parisienne 73 



PAGt 

Queen 72 

Sand 67 

Special Orange 74 

Tragacanth Paste 104 

fTumble Tarts 116 

Turkish Rolls 191 

Turk's Heads 178 

Turnovers 119, 190 

Tutti Frutti Cake 80, 90 

Tutti Frutti Ice Cream 238 

Twisted Cream Rolls 186 

Twisted Rings . . . .' 188 

Twists, Scrolls and Snails.... 191 

Universal Cookie Mixture .... 131 

Vanilla Cream Drops 143 

Vanilla Cup Cake 84 

Vanilla Jumbles 139 

Vanilla Cream Souffles 143 

Vanilla Wafers, White 140 

Variation in Flours 11 

Victoria Tart 115 

Victory Sponge Cake 63 

Vienna Butter Cream 212 

Vienna Butter Sponge 62 

Vienna Fried Cakes 195 

Vienna Tart Mixture 66 

Vienna Zwieback 186 

Wafers 138 

Almond 140 

Champagne 140 

Cream 141 

Dietetic Bran 142 

Honey 142 

Ice Cream Sandwich 141 

Lemon 140 

Rolled 140, 142 

Swedish Rolled 141 

Walnut 141 

White Vanilla 140 

Wafer Jumbles 140 

Wafer Paper for Baking. .... 159 

Waffles, Fried Spring 196 

Walnut Block, English 33, 83 

Walnut Cakes 33, 37, 83 

Walnut Wafers 141 

Washington Cake 89 

Washington Cream Pie 230 

Washington Crumb Cake or 

Pie 93 

Washington Pie, Martha 

Water Icing 207 

Water Sponge Cake 62 

Web Sugar 279 

Wedding Cakes 38 

Whipped Cream Filling 215 



INDEX— Continued 



PAGE 

White Box Cake 26 

White Bride's Cake 40 

White Cake 27 

White Drops 143 

White Duchess Cake 81 

White Florence Cake 80 

White Fruit 41 

White Fruit Slab Cake. . .' 30 

White Layer 29 

White Lebkuchen 149 

White Layer Cakes 29 

White Loaf (with Cornstarch) 28 

White Mountain Cake 28 

White Poundcake 42 

White Stock Icing 205 

White Vanilla Wafers 140 

Wine Cake Mixtures 90, 92 

Yeast-Raised Doughs and Pas- 
try 174 

Fillings for 181 



PAGE 

Yeast-Raised Doughnuts. .192, 195 

Jelly Balls 195 

Pastry 174 

Yeast-Raised Tea Cakes or 

Biscuits 198 

Yellow Bowl Mixture 56 

Yellow Box Cakes 30 

Yellow Drop Cakes 138 

Yellow Florence Cake 80 

Yellow Layer Cake 91 

Yellow Slab Cake 91 

Zwieback Doughs 180, 186 

Zwieback, Almond 187 

Anise 187 

Hamburg 186 

Hungarian 187 

Pressburg 187 

Vienna 186 



LIBRARY OF 




°014 578 517 



